Adolf Hamster

you didn't leave the reg on (ie regulating pressure)? even when the gun is disconnected that can drain a tank pretty quick. i always turned mine off between games never had an issue, whilst my mate who insisted it didn't matter curiously was always in search of air.....

pretty much good quality heavier bb's, good quality barrel (quality>nominal bore size), good hop, and as close to perfect air seal as you can get. whilst fps/energy isnt everything, if you're a significant chunk under your respective limit then you're gonna want to bump it closer.

best is entirely subjective. do you define best by rate of fire? in which case an arp with a polarstar jack is the best do you define best by accuracy? in which case a well tuned fusion engine or f2 in a gun that also has sufficiently good components (hop, barrel, reciever alignment and rigidity etc) to take advantage is the best. do you define best by loudness? a short barrel with a high pressure system is best do you define best by quietness? a long barreled system with a low flow setup and a big suppressor is best do you define best by recoil/handling? in that case a converted gbbr or daytonagun kit is best the list continues, but the moral of the story is the best gun for a given application won't be the best at another application. hpa isn't a "magic bullet" you don't just drop an hpa kit into a gun and suddenly it'll be amazing and outperform everything on the field, if you want performance in any given direction then just like any other airsoft gun you're going to need to work for it.

Good job dude, always heard daytonas described as a labour of love its good to see some proper description of the kind of things need done. That's gonna be a real head turner on the field!

what made it fun was mostly the frantic nature of the defence, tbh the quality of sportsmanship of the people you're playing with&against tends to have a more pronounced impact on fun than the individual game mode.

Had a great one last week, a push/fallback style game where the attacking team had to find a car battery, push up to the car and start the engine. I'm a fan of fallback games in general, nice and simple rules (although plenty of folk can still fail to get their head around even that) but the game doesnt get bogged down the same way as a fixed respawn game tends to.

that where he is? would make sense, heard there are some mad limits over there.

i'd check you can get a spare for it before giving that a go, but the logic seems sound enough.

isn't 3 joules a bit spicy for an english site?

won't that block the float valve from closing? i've seen that design before and best i can make out the float valve is opened by the round in the chamber so you need to have the nozzle open.

if i recall he dissappeared a lot during the original lockdown, didn't want to be reminded that he wasn't allowed out to shoot, so i presume the same thing is going on now?

with the exception of the svu and the ots-14 i do kind of agree

as a pre-made unit there is this: https://gunfire.com/en/products/steel-tracer-pk-259t-pbs-4-silencer-replica-1152226754.html if you dont mind the suppressor weighing as much as the gun does, seriously i cannot emphasize how heavy that thing is, like imagine how heavy you think it is and at least double it. however you can also look at modding any of the other suppressor styles to take a tracer unit, most russian suppressors are pretty chunky so you should be able to find a tracer unit small enough to stuff inside. it's also possible the muzzle device is a 14mmccw with a spacer to bring it out to 24mm (for example cyma/jg do this so they can make one front sight assembly for both types of guns), can't say for sure on that model. some models (like e&l) with the 24mm muzzle device are fixed. personally i'd feel inclined to steer you towards the e&l guns if you're wanting a nice ak: granted that's a sample size of 1 gun but you can make your own decision from the comparisons there.

pretty much as above. bushings can tend to wear in a single direction (the hole goes from round to oval) but that's a gradual failure rather than bearing's preference for sudden catastrophic failure. if i'm mixing types i tend to go for bushings towards the sector (highest impact loading) and bearings towards the bevel (highest rpm)

man you gotta love russian optics when they're longer than the gun they're mounted on

See i'm not bothered by that, as m4's go thats nowhere near the worst offender.

Still not a valid excuse for heresy.....

just top mount? easy to access the battery by popping the top cover.

going from the muzzle back you were doing so so well until you got to the back of the top cover......... reported him for heresy

wow, just wow.

i dunno, he's at least not put an m4 stock on it. not a massive fan of the railed top covers but i can respect the choice compared to trying to get a siderail mounted properly.

the f2000 i've found is surprisingly common, i've seen quite a few around, probably the most regular bullpup i'd see. granted when i got mine originally they were rare, to the point i was known at my regular site simply as "f2000 guy". i've seen one intervention get fielded, i suspect the size/weight of it is probably why it plays second fiddle to lighter and handier guns like the vsr given you don't get the equivalent range advantage the real one has to pay for its weight.

Have you seen the bore offset on some of the siderail stuff? Forget cheek weld or even chin weld, its beard weld and only if your a wizard

ahh shit, sorry man i threw it out. and it wouldn't be the first time i've seen an hk body pin replaced by a twig

I feel like you of all people should know better by now