Adolf Hamster

Those 2 things seem mutually exclusive to me.....

Lent, and loaned, many a pew in my time, even equipped first timers with hpa'd e&l's and handed off pews mid-firefight. Its something you do for folk you know will at least respect your pew. But never charged, thats just inviting a mess of expectation and liability.

Outside chance, but if the other advice hasnt helped and the symptom is temporary it might be midcap syndrome. The way to tell if if they feed ok on a partially loaded mag but not one stuffed to the brim. A cut up peice of inner barrel with a pin can make for a de-loader to get them a dozen rounds short of stuffed. The other possibility is ammo, before switching to geoffs i had a lot of feeding issues but the same gun with the same cyma mags with good ammo could feed reliably 100% of the time, hell if i had a penny for every "misfeeding" gun i could fix by handing the owner a magfull of the good stuff......

This is the issue with giving cookie cutter replacement part lists. A given product might be great, but if it aint a good fit for the gun it aint a good fit. And it doesnt matter how premium it is, for as much as a fusion engine costs the internet is littered with "how to align your nozzle" guides when the reciever doesnt quite match up.

I always thought it was bad ballistics

closer to the gearbox, although if that's worse then could try the opposite. if it's a non-factory motor it's also possible that the pinion isn't a good mesh with the bevel (ie things like the profile of the teeth) and that'll limit how smooth sounding it can get, which then gets to swapping out gearsets.

Not horrible, as mentioned check the motor height. Best practice for motor height is start wound in all the way, if you start all the way out it might strip gears but if its too tight the motor will just stall (dont hold a stalled motor for any length of time mind you as the current will be trying to cook it) If that's the best sounding it can get maybe drop the bevel a tad and try again.

The bad news is there will be many many mistakes left to go on the road to learning good teching. The good news is a boneyard gun is absolutely a great way to start, unlike some of us that made the mistake of doing so on their first and only pew........

It might be that you have to just install/check/remove/adjust multiple times to get it perfect. Thats the thing, its not the difficulty, its the labriousness of having to try adjust try until you get it dialled in.

Or hit cover near you

i'd argue the lions share of perceived longer flight time is due to the heavier bb's travelling further, ie past a short distance the heavier round can actually be faster at getting from a to b until it's the case that the lighter round can't even make it to b. although in the case when the bucking can't spool up the heavies without robbing enough energy to negate the range benefits your point does apply. however if the circumstances mean you're not using the extra range then no point spending extra for a benefit you're not using. heavier rounds became more available/cheaper, off the shelf buckings made it easier to spin them up, and enough people started using them to notice the benefits.

Afaik the aims stock mounts to the standard wood stock tang, so a standard 47 should fit the bill.

Dodged a bullet then Unfortunately the soldering (and depending on gearbox type dissassembly) is going to be on the cards for any mosfet that's using the original trigger components. Personally i like the gate system, with the 2 signal wires to the trigger and 2 heavy wires to the motor as once you've gone to the trouble of soldering the gun the mosfet can be easily unplugged and moved to a new home.

hopefully that's not a "got the despatch email before reading this" kind of oh bugger?

Suppressors do work very well on hpa/gas non-blowbacks where theres minimal action noise.