Adolf Hamster

Pretty much, or maybe theres a built in resupply system eg you get to top up if the team captures an objective, or if you're doing wave respawn mechanics you get topped up before being sent back out.

I always figured the solution to that was a hard ammo cap for the day. Eg you get a bag of 500 bb's and its up to you if you want to partially fill a drum mag or a backpack full of gas mags but when its gone its gone. Would be hell to police given how easy it'd be for players to sneak extra rounds onto the field, and many would take issue (with varying degrees of justification) if they had to run site ammo. But then what rule in airsoft doesnt fundamentally rely on the honesty of strangers in a competitive environment.

I try not to judge a man/woman/otherwise by immutable characteristics like their age, race, culture, lack of socio-economic status, skin pigmentation, physical/mental divergence, their (age appropriate) bedfellow(s) or their god(s). But turning up to a site with those is a choice, and you chose poorly....... Same with 2-toning something rare, dont care if you day-glo a common gat we all gotta work around the rules but you show up with a lime green ppsh and it's not a bit, well, that's a choice........

if it's sized well, or designed to wedge into place that's a pretty decent solution some manufacturers even use. other solutions are springs/stacks of o rings around the inner barrel to pressure the hop unit against the gearbox (these can be affected by the magazine though), or some ak hop units literally bolt to the gearbox via the front tab. that's an old school bodge, some people hate it, but it's not the worst idea if the inner is a bit loose in the outer. don't need to go the whole way though just at the muzzle end as the hop will be holding the other end and you don't want to inadvertently be introducing bends to the barrel. some barrels even have grooves for o-rings to stabilise the end of them which is the professional answer to that question. if you're using springs to pressure the hop against the gearbox you want to be sure the tape stabiliser isn't so tight that the spring can't pull the barrel back onto the gearbox (ie barely enough ptfe to take out any wobble) i'm guessing that's to tighten up the fitment of the barrel into the trunnion? the grub screw nominally does that but if it's real loose then certainly an option, but you're gonna want to make sure that the barrel is sitting good and square when you get it all together but that's just standard airsoft ak things. not as keen on masking tape, you want something solid otherwise the barrel could be moving when the gun gets bending pressure (eg leaning on cover).

it seems mighy like it's intended as a spacer, i've often used them particularly on pistols. it's just a bit of stuff to pack underneath the nub to get a little extra lift when there's not enough regular hop travel to spin the bb's i want to use. commonly a cut up square from the skirt of an aeg rubber is a good option but i can see heatshrink doing the same job. you probably won't be needing it when you change to the omega nub.

That's pretty much the point i was trying to get at. A secondhand modded pew could have been worked on by someone with no experience, or someone with a lot of experience, if you do it yourself you at least get the benefit of knowing which of those 2 things happened. the walk of shame with a broken pew is still on the cards but at least it'll be your own shame.

When it comes to modded guns second hand, it's less about what parts it has, and more the quality of the workmanship. And unless they're name-dropping a tech that can be a gamble. You might get a well dialled machine that runs well, or a cobbled together mess that's going to struggle to make it through the first game without eating something important. If you cant see the gun shoot, hear how it sounds, then you're basically going off the value of the parts (at least the big ticket items) and the externals, the latter of which are unfortunately no indication of how healthy the internals are. It's why i advocate people learning their own teching, because at least you can have some confidence in being able to sort out any installation issues yourself.

What brand of bb's? Some brands are less polished than others and can be sticky during feeding. Often a mag of geoffs can cure a number of pew pew ills. Although @strykerles's suggestion of the hop being fully off is also a likely culprit if your rounds arent going very far.

I preferr "gentlemen of jolly stature"

1 working day for either payment or comms as to why payment hasnt materialised. After that next interested customer gets their shot

I have a memory of calibrating for that, but that would have been a titan so maybe the adter doesnt have a calibration for it?

Backlash?

@Colin Allen is right on the money here. The reason for shims is because even manufacturers cant rely on the gearbox casing being an exact size. It's very much the case that the number and position of shims in your gearbox is going to be very nearly unique to that specific gun. With that said, as much as we strive for "perfect" shimming, you can get away with a little slop. There are multiple ways to go about it, but this should get you somewhere, for reference "low" means close to the left hand gearbox casing and you should be starting this on a clean casing with everything but the bearings removed: 1. Start with the idler gear, keeping it as low as possible add shims under until it isnt scraping on the casing, you can test this by putting the 2 halves together and using a screwdriver to spin the gear whilst holding it left side down. 2. Once you've got the underside of the idler figured out, add to the top side. This means closing up the 2 halves and tightening them down (tightening is important) and seeing if it'll still spin. You want the number of shims required to make it stick minus the smallest shim size you're working with (eg if you're using 0.3mm shims and 3 of them makes it stick, use 2) 3. Keeping the idler in place now we do the same for the sector gear, starting with the underside keeping it as low as it can be without scraping the casing, cutoff lever or idler gear. 4. Now we do the top side of the sector gear, same process as step 2. When spin testing try holding it both ways up incase it scrapes when held to one side or the other. 5. Now it's the bevel gear, lot of folks like starting at the bevel but doing things this way we now know how low the bevel is allowed to go before the other gears start giving issues. So we repeat step 1 for the bevel adding shims under until its as low as can be to prevent scraping. 6. Now shim the top of the bevel same as steps 2/5 7. Now for the laborious bit, you gotta assemble enough of the gun to get the motor meshed with the bevel and driving, which for a v2 style is assembling most of the box but leaving the whole piston/cylinder/spring assembly and the cutoff lever out but keeping the trigger components in, fit the grip+motor assembly and enough of the wiring to let you "fire" it (just full auto is fine, we only need to spin the gears and listen to them). 8. Once the thing can be "fired" tighten the motor adjustment screw in until it's pretty tight then fire a short blast (no more than half a second, if it don't spin then holding the trigger down is only gonna heat up the motor/wires and it should spin immediately). If it doesnt spin then loosen the screw a bit and try again until it spins, it will almost certainly sound godawful. Keep backing the motor height out until it's the least godawful sounding it can be. 9. Now you gotta take it all back apart again, move a shim from above the bevel to under it and repeat steps 7-9 until you've got the cleanest sound you can. yes this will take a few tried, yes it's a pain in the ass doing all that work each attempt but such is the teching life. 10. Now you know where the bevel wants to be for the motor height, take a look and make sure that there's a decent tooth overlap, ie that the small ring of teeth that drive the idler gear are mostly in line with each other, if they arent you might need to go back and lift the idler/sector gear together to get more overlap. Personally, i've always perferred working with 1 shim thickness as it's easier keeping track of a stack of 9 0.1mm shims than trying to remember "thats a .5, .3 and 2 .1's" etc but that doesnt mean having different sizes wont work as long as you keep track of things. It's not a difficult process, just repetitive, annoying, and needs meticulous care to ensure you don't lose track of what shims need to go where.

ahh yes, so essential i forget to mention it. well that's partially good, means the issue isn't necessarily the ml fee lip length. one thing to contemplate is ammo, if it's a bit sticky might give what you see. the number of these sorts of issues i've "fixed" by handing a mag filled with geoffs to the complainant......... otherwise next candidate to look at is the nozzle/cylinder head, one assumes they seal well to each other (worth checking with the thumb test) but possible that it isn't working when feeding, but sealing against the hop it just takes .01mm too short to get intermittent seal.

sounds like this might be a case of the ml longer feedlips and the gun saying no. i'd try swapping the bucking back to stock, if that fixes it then it's either trying to sand down the feed lips a smidge (which sadly often makes it worse unless you can get it real clean and square) or a different bucking. otherwise, time to look at the nozzle/cylinder head.