Adolf Hamster

ahh yes, so essential i forget to mention it. well that's partially good, means the issue isn't necessarily the ml fee lip length. one thing to contemplate is ammo, if it's a bit sticky might give what you see. the number of these sorts of issues i've "fixed" by handing a mag filled with geoffs to the complainant......... otherwise next candidate to look at is the nozzle/cylinder head, one assumes they seal well to each other (worth checking with the thumb test) but possible that it isn't working when feeding, but sealing against the hop it just takes .01mm too short to get intermittent seal.

sounds like this might be a case of the ml longer feedlips and the gun saying no. i'd try swapping the bucking back to stock, if that fixes it then it's either trying to sand down the feed lips a smidge (which sadly often makes it worse unless you can get it real clean and square) or a different bucking. otherwise, time to look at the nozzle/cylinder head.

Can you not just remove the eye cup?

You mean against the rail? Option 1 is a number of qd levers act against a threaded rod, so you can unclip it, screw it in a few turns and it'll tighten (kinda like the qd levers on pushbike wheels) If it doesnt have that adjustment then a shim of cardboard (cerial packets are good for this) or plastic can also work

If the hop unit has a retention o ring you can just remove it and it should drop the bb's free The only retention mechanism i liked was the maxx clamp style which can actually feed all the rounds in, so you fire multiple times to make safe but those multiple rounds feed properly

I dunno, price of tobacco these days......

Was gonna say a grub screw. Secret mvp of the bodging world

both of the above are good suggestions, although i'd add that typically suppressor strikes are much more apparent than a mild curve and have an immediate component, which would have me thinking it's the hop as lopsided spin tends to manifest at distance as a gentle curve. one sneaky issue is that the deformation can change depending on the hop setting, so it might look perfect when you're looking at it on the bench with a little hop applied, but a little more/less hop applied when in the gun and the lop-sidedness manifests (very common in pistol hops when the tensioning arm bends), so be sure to check through the full range of hop travel. it's worth trying a little twiddling, even if it ends up looking off by eye if the end result is the shot going straight then that's ok.

i won't say the occasional indoor plink isn't on the cards, but i'll keep them in mind.

good to know, feels weird asking that question but given i'm out of the game now and a navy colt is one of the few pews i'd consider as a wall-hanger it was worth asking.

Oooooohhh Also, isnt it 1873 thats the cutoff for vrca stuff?

Finally an sks

might find it overhops/is biased to the lower end of hop unit travel. a flat hop nub is chunky to account for there being no mound in the bucking. but if it doesn't over-protrude enough to be an issue it should work, although ideally the maple leaf stuff is better utilised with a curved omega style nub to increase the contact patch.

Got active brake turned on? Because this sounds exactly like an active brake stopping the cycle too quickly problem

Ahh, yes that won't really be much benefit, getting the join to line up well enough to not mess up the accuracy isn't really practical. You'd be better off with no barrel extension and just an empty can