Adolf Hamster

1 working day for either payment or comms as to why payment hasnt materialised. After that next interested customer gets their shot

I have a memory of calibrating for that, but that would have been a titan so maybe the adter doesnt have a calibration for it?

Backlash?

@Colin Allen is right on the money here. The reason for shims is because even manufacturers cant rely on the gearbox casing being an exact size. It's very much the case that the number and position of shims in your gearbox is going to be very nearly unique to that specific gun. With that said, as much as we strive for "perfect" shimming, you can get away with a little slop. There are multiple ways to go about it, but this should get you somewhere, for reference "low" means close to the left hand gearbox casing and you should be starting this on a clean casing with everything but the bearings removed: 1. Start with the idler gear, keeping it as low as possible add shims under until it isnt scraping on the casing, you can test this by putting the 2 halves together and using a screwdriver to spin the gear whilst holding it left side down. 2. Once you've got the underside of the idler figured out, add to the top side. This means closing up the 2 halves and tightening them down (tightening is important) and seeing if it'll still spin. You want the number of shims required to make it stick minus the smallest shim size you're working with (eg if you're using 0.3mm shims and 3 of them makes it stick, use 2) 3. Keeping the idler in place now we do the same for the sector gear, starting with the underside keeping it as low as it can be without scraping the casing, cutoff lever or idler gear. 4. Now we do the top side of the sector gear, same process as step 2. When spin testing try holding it both ways up incase it scrapes when held to one side or the other. 5. Now it's the bevel gear, lot of folks like starting at the bevel but doing things this way we now know how low the bevel is allowed to go before the other gears start giving issues. So we repeat step 1 for the bevel adding shims under until its as low as can be to prevent scraping. 6. Now shim the top of the bevel same as steps 2/5 7. Now for the laborious bit, you gotta assemble enough of the gun to get the motor meshed with the bevel and driving, which for a v2 style is assembling most of the box but leaving the whole piston/cylinder/spring assembly and the cutoff lever out but keeping the trigger components in, fit the grip+motor assembly and enough of the wiring to let you "fire" it (just full auto is fine, we only need to spin the gears and listen to them). 8. Once the thing can be "fired" tighten the motor adjustment screw in until it's pretty tight then fire a short blast (no more than half a second, if it don't spin then holding the trigger down is only gonna heat up the motor/wires and it should spin immediately). If it doesnt spin then loosen the screw a bit and try again until it spins, it will almost certainly sound godawful. Keep backing the motor height out until it's the least godawful sounding it can be. 9. Now you gotta take it all back apart again, move a shim from above the bevel to under it and repeat steps 7-9 until you've got the cleanest sound you can. yes this will take a few tried, yes it's a pain in the ass doing all that work each attempt but such is the teching life. 10. Now you know where the bevel wants to be for the motor height, take a look and make sure that there's a decent tooth overlap, ie that the small ring of teeth that drive the idler gear are mostly in line with each other, if they arent you might need to go back and lift the idler/sector gear together to get more overlap. Personally, i've always perferred working with 1 shim thickness as it's easier keeping track of a stack of 9 0.1mm shims than trying to remember "thats a .5, .3 and 2 .1's" etc but that doesnt mean having different sizes wont work as long as you keep track of things. It's not a difficult process, just repetitive, annoying, and needs meticulous care to ensure you don't lose track of what shims need to go where.

ahh yes, so essential i forget to mention it. well that's partially good, means the issue isn't necessarily the ml fee lip length. one thing to contemplate is ammo, if it's a bit sticky might give what you see. the number of these sorts of issues i've "fixed" by handing a mag filled with geoffs to the complainant......... otherwise next candidate to look at is the nozzle/cylinder head, one assumes they seal well to each other (worth checking with the thumb test) but possible that it isn't working when feeding, but sealing against the hop it just takes .01mm too short to get intermittent seal.

sounds like this might be a case of the ml longer feedlips and the gun saying no. i'd try swapping the bucking back to stock, if that fixes it then it's either trying to sand down the feed lips a smidge (which sadly often makes it worse unless you can get it real clean and square) or a different bucking. otherwise, time to look at the nozzle/cylinder head.

Can you not just remove the eye cup?

You mean against the rail? Option 1 is a number of qd levers act against a threaded rod, so you can unclip it, screw it in a few turns and it'll tighten (kinda like the qd levers on pushbike wheels) If it doesnt have that adjustment then a shim of cardboard (cerial packets are good for this) or plastic can also work

If the hop unit has a retention o ring you can just remove it and it should drop the bb's free The only retention mechanism i liked was the maxx clamp style which can actually feed all the rounds in, so you fire multiple times to make safe but those multiple rounds feed properly

I dunno, price of tobacco these days......

Was gonna say a grub screw. Secret mvp of the bodging world

both of the above are good suggestions, although i'd add that typically suppressor strikes are much more apparent than a mild curve and have an immediate component, which would have me thinking it's the hop as lopsided spin tends to manifest at distance as a gentle curve. one sneaky issue is that the deformation can change depending on the hop setting, so it might look perfect when you're looking at it on the bench with a little hop applied, but a little more/less hop applied when in the gun and the lop-sidedness manifests (very common in pistol hops when the tensioning arm bends), so be sure to check through the full range of hop travel. it's worth trying a little twiddling, even if it ends up looking off by eye if the end result is the shot going straight then that's ok.

i won't say the occasional indoor plink isn't on the cards, but i'll keep them in mind.

good to know, feels weird asking that question but given i'm out of the game now and a navy colt is one of the few pews i'd consider as a wall-hanger it was worth asking.

Oooooohhh Also, isnt it 1873 thats the cutoff for vrca stuff?