Skara

Oh don't worry, I'm not giving up on my Lonex mags, it's all I use in my M4s! I just wanted to find an "old school" high cap that works and feeds with my guns. Unfortunately the Specna high caps that came with them don't feed at all in full auto, even though they lock in so nicely despite the cunty ass Maxx chambers

Bit of an odd one but... What is the best M4 highcap that is not a Lonex Flash Mag?

What Chris said. Also, do yourself a favour: Next time you play, when you get home lay all the kit you brought on the floor, then group all the items you've actually used on one side, you'll be amazed at how much unnecessary crap you carry Anyway, a rough estimate of what I always have on me (regardless of what gun or kit I run) is: 3/4 + 1 mags, bag of BBs, at least one litre of water, radio, multitool, small tin with adapters/programming card/Titan usb thingy, 1/2 spare AEG batteries in case someone forgets his, cigarettes, phone (not always) and car keys. Maybe a windshirt if it's really cold/very light rain. Odin if I run midcaps (rarely). Water, BBs (+ Odin) and radio in my backpack, the rest in a chest rig or belt kit. You really don't need more

This ain't Mack.

Material is mostly irrelevant, just like diametre or any other fancy "feature". The only thing that really matters in a barrel is the inner finish and, since the SSX uses a 6.02 Maple Leaf barrel, I'd argue it's more than good enough! To answer your question, no, you shouldn't replace the inner barrel. Also, bore diametre affects energy output for the most part, so a 6.01 will give you more Joules than a 6.03 (same length, same specs, same everything) and with gas operated guns this may result in more (or less if using a wider barrel) Joule Creep, so keep that in mind

Bought some custom made pouches from Baribal in Polen land: Two of these to go over the mag pouches on my belt kit - Primarily to hold navigation stuff and multitool + bits; One of this to turn my 9 litres Tasmanian Tiger Essential Pack into a sort of this for games up to 8 hours long (I'll be using my Direct Action Dust for longer games); A 40mm velcro inner belt (hook) to be used with my FRV Shooter's Belt and Templar's Gear belt kit; A Dump Pouch; Everything in Ranger Green and 500D Cordura. € 140 for everything (including PP surcharge and shipping from Polen). Next is another golden carbon fibre barrel (for my 933) and a 36k Warhead Black still for the 933 (with possibly a 16:1 gear set to keep the RPS down to 20/22 on a 7.4v)

Yup, decent retailer, bought my T-11 from them along with a few bits and bobs. Postage to me isn't overly expensive (€12 via GLS) but you might incur in import fees.

You get very similar performance for a) less money and b) less hassle. It's more about how much you want to invest in your gun, both in terms of money and in terms of time spent on tweaking it.

Let me elaborate: Except for a couple of (at least to me) mandatory parts like hop rubbers and such, every "build" needs to have a goal: I modify guns to make them reliable and efficient, someone might go for raw performance, other for more "realistic" stats like realistic ROF and such. It all depends on what your son wants from his gun, is it a CQB shooter? does it get used in the woods as well? What's the target energy (in Joules) and ROF? Ask him these questions and come back with answers

Gate Titan - Perun Hybrid does the same job for half the price, it's good if your son is after very fine tuning of the electronic part (Advanced and Expert versions, the basic is meh); RetroArms CNC anti-reversal latch - Unnecessary; Prometheus non-linear spring MS170 - depends on the inner barrel, cylinder, number of teeth shaved off the sector and target energy output; Prometheus EG 16:1 hard gears - Wouldn't spend that much on Prometheus gears, SHS sets are infinitely cheaper. Also there's not much difference between 16:1 and 18:1 in terms of RPS, so might as well leave the original G&G gears in there; Maxx CNC double o-ring air seal nozzle - nope, aluminium nozzles cause more issues than benefits; Maxx CNC M4P hop-up - I run the previous generation of Maxx units (ME, both Pro and Sport versions), they're generally really good but require some fettling in most builds, also they want a defined nozzle length otherwise they won't feed or seal; Maxx CNC steel aluminium spring guide thru hole - seems decent enough, maybe a little too expensive for what it is; Maxx CMC stainless cylinder - probabily unnecessary; Maxx CNC alu double air seal & damper cylinder head - NOPE, NOPE and NOPE again. These are known for destroying gearbox casings because they're off spec. Also aluminium cylinder heads in general transfer much of the impact from the piston head towards the gearbox shell, whereas polymer heads tend to absorb some of the energy; Maple Leaf super macaron hop rubber - This, paired with a good hop unit and decent barrel, will considerably improve range and consistency.

Kit for tomorrow's 27h tournament: MC pouches are there to be tested, if I like the configuration I'll then buy RG ones What I'm carrying left to right: Gerber Paracord Knife; 2x M4 Mags; - TG Small Utility 2.0: GPS (Garmin GPSMap 65s), dummy corded; - TG Large Utility 1.0: Windshirt, half bag of BBs, First Aid Kit; - Emerson electronics pouch: empty as of now, will probably put random admin stuff in there like pens and batteries for my AEG and torches (so 2x 7.4v LiPos, 4x rechargeable 123as, 1x Lithium 123a, 4x AAs for the GPS); 2x M4 Mags; - TG Medium Utility 1.0: Leatherman Wave + with bit extender, dummy corded, Streamlight Sidewinder head torch, navigation stuff like protractor, small 10cm ruler, map, pencil. I will also be carrying my Direct Action Dust Mk2 that will hold: 2L of water inside a Source bladder; Food; DPM MVP Shell (to be left in the car if it doesn't rain along with a mil-tec poncho) Salewa PrimaLoft puffy inside a drybag; Additional bag of BBs (using bio 0.32s) Radio; An awful lot of stupid game specific props like painter's suit, surgical mask and other bullshit like that. Terrain has silly elevation (guesstimated 1200m between descent and ascent over 35 kilometres) and is silly exposed in some parts because it's being held over Carrara Marble open mines (yep, where Quantum of Solace was shot).

It's the sector gear, not the piston

Yeah, it's a silly simple mechanical system. People just need to realize it's three gears, a piston, an electrical switch of some sort and it doesn't take a degree in nuclear physics to work on it

W ⚓ 🔫 - Carbon Fibre edition

VFC, Ares, G&G. First has great externals but the internals don't reflect the price tag; Second is just a steaming pile of shit with proprietary everything, but their polymer bodies are sturdy; G&G guns were good 15 years ago, the technology used is also 15 years old but prices have gone up dramatically. Regarding gear, eeh, anything with "Airsoft" in the name/brand. Also some design choices make no sense to me (Viper products mostly), like making the spiritus knock-off chest rig too narrow so that it can't fit 3x stanag mags.

Do it right. Swap the nozzle for one that feeds and seals on the zci unit, then build your two barrels on those. Also be aware that those extra 7 centimetres of barrel will dramatically increase the muzzle energy, so your gun may end up being too hot.

Those are Dboys M4s (also known as Specna Arms, Lancer Tactical, Saigo Defense, Evolution Airsoft), solid starter guns. I would advise against buying mags before you get a replica, while it's true that in theory A brand mag will fit B brand gun, it's Airsoft we're talking about and most "guns" want certain brand magazines. I'll tell you this, if you don't mind high caps, Lonex Flash Mags are essentially the best and the ones that, in my experience, feed in most guns. Midcaps are cooler but they're a lot more fussy.

You could contact Theyma HP on Facebook for proper haloscreen. Forget about AGM and Novritsch, those are junk sheets of tulle/mesh that aren't even in the same universe as HS.

FTFY. Ambi selectors are shit on V2 based guns, it's just the way the gearbox is set up. If it was a V3 you would have had a very, very sturdy ambidextrous selector mechanism.

Is it an ambi selector? Are you a lefty? if the answers are yes, no, in this order, then fuck off all the gimmick ambi selector cogs and install a regular switch. I believe all of them come with detent + spring

It is definitely possible, I have a C-08 with a 36k warhead black and 13:1 gears. Keep in mind that the warhead is a very particular motor and requires some considerations: You NEED to short stroke the gears, the thing cycles so fast that if you don't, you will either PME like crazy or have horrible timing issues, on my C-02 I short stroked by two, on my AK I had to knock 4 teeth off. Removing teeth from the piston isn't necessary, AOE correction isn't necessary on most setups (didn't do it on mine, but I generally don't believe in AOE correction unless it's a mega wanker 50+ RPS DSG setup); You NEED to trim the tappet plate fin, otherwise you'll run into timing issues where the piston is released when the nozzle is still moving. Don't overdo it or the gun will simply stop feeding. On mine I also reprofiled the whole fin to make the nozzle smooth in its travel, but this step is unnecessary in most cases. With this in mind, replace the nozzle with a POLYMER one with an o-ring, replace the piston head o-ring while you're at it to ensure proper air seal and maybe take a look at mosfets (Perun Hybrids are great and work really, really well with brushless motors). If you short stroke you will probably need a stiffer spring, but don't go overboard and order a M150, my guns do 0.99J on shortened M90s with the sole exception being my AK that runs on a M100. To achieve 1.13J I guess a M100/M110 is fine depending on your compression setup.

Heh, this one is not secure enough to hold any valuable since it doesn't have any closure system (not that it can't be DIY'd or engineered huh). I just use it for navigation equipment (pencil, map, 10cm metal ruler and plastic protractor). I keep my car keys/phone in my backpack that I always have on my back, dummy corded so there's no way of losing them. The harness was chosen because I also have their flatpack straps (called PackStraps, many creativity, such wow) and they're very, very comfortable compared to HSP/clone stock straps, if anything a little too expensive to import (they were about €80 after customs and import fees, I got 50% off the straps themselves so you are looking at well over 100 for full price) but worth it. As per the other thread, I won't be overloading it with pouches, wings, danglers and all that crap unless absolutely necessary, I'm keeping this one ultra slim. If I need to carry my kitchen sink I'll just wear my Mayflower or belt kit

What the fuck is a "cocking nub"?