Skara

It's an MP5, it does have an OEM mosfet called M System. Otherwise it wouldn't have 4 selector positions (we've all seen how well the VFC attempt at a mechanical 4 positions selector turned out). Knowing how picky TMs are, I wouldn't. But that's not my RIF and the OP can do as he/she pleases. Yes people have put warheads inside their NGRS, but how many of those guns are still 100% stock internally? I bet none.

eeeh a bit reductive tbf. It is indeed a motor, but with an internal control unit that may or may not interfere with the RIF's internal control unit. Also being a NGRS gun I wouldn't install something as violent as a brushless motor without making serious considerations about the durability of the internals. Regardless of the brand/RPM rating/Battery these motors do sport A LOT of torque which may destroy the pot metal internals TM NGRS guns are known for in a very short time.

I do have an E&L begadi hop that I'm not using.... Though with postage from here and customs I don't know how convenient it can be for you.

Small update on mine. Did some unnecessary shopping and bought two CowCow fire pin locks, two TTI piston heads and two TTI npas valves. It took 10 minutes to install everything, now I just need to chrono them and find a suitable allen key to tune the power on the fly.

That is just to differentiate the older macarons (3 stripes) from the newer super macarons (wavy pattern). The main difference is the additional supports next to the contact patch and the patch being slightly wider/longer on the super variant.

Yeah stock E&L rubbers seem to be made for stupid high energies, certainly not around the 1J mark. Also you did not mention what rubbers you bought. Personally had meh experiences with MR-Hops, okay-ish energy consistency but really bad BB trajectory.. Macarons/super macarons are spot on for me.

My small M4 does this, no hop applied = 0.8something Joules, hop correctly set for 0.32 = 0.99J I guess my particular setup doesn't seal when there is no hop.. Back to the OP, I think you are both having terrible air seal issues, there is no way that you drop so much velocity when applying hop. Sort the compression first, then try again. Some hop rubbers seem to need a few hundred bbs to "break in", but I have never experienced such a thing with my Maple Leaf ones.

Just picked up two Helikon Tex GPS pouches, one in Ral 7013 and one in DNC. Then realized Skirmshop had some of the newer TTI parts in stock so I bought: 2x TTI Npas valves for the AAP-01; 2x TTI AAP-01 piston heads; 2x CowCow firing pin lock thingies; 1x TTI fixed Glock outer barrel (14mm CCW thread).

Nothing fancy, just an AliExpress clone of the Haley mp2 triple insert. Holds metal mags adequately without making it Excalibur-like impossible to extract. Also makes it less difficult to reinsert mags compared to the spiritus style elastic sandwich.

One (hopefully) neat addition to the ammo hub: 6x3 admin/utility pouch from Baribal.

I'm pretty sure one could find a way around ITAR. In any case, yeah I'd go for nods, thermals or fancy nylon.

^^ This. First establish what you want from your toy gun, then look at the different options.. G&G motors aren't spectacular but since yours is "free", I'd give it a try and see how it goes. In any case stay clear of high speed motors, all they do is stress your batteries for no reason.

When I still had the E&L I had a combat union hop unit inside and the nozzle was very tight on the cylinder head.. I didn't have power loss nor any feeding issue that wasn't magazine related. Mind you mine was a gen 1 CU hop. Maybe it's tight on your setup as well and this being tight prevents the nozzle from sealing from time to time. If you're in for a fancy (and expensive) hop up I would suggest the begadi ones, they are fantastic and you're not limited to ONE nozzle. They list compatible guns on the website for both options (green: cyma spec, blue: E&L spec)

I don't know how you can't see me, wearing my short sleeve RG invisibility cloak and my usual invisible grey backpack

Not much to see here today, just a long black stick among green/brown vegetation that apparently is invisible to others and silly quiet.

A strange sequence of events lead me to play sniper after a looooong time.. I was meant to use my PDW and decided to bring the vsr as well to have some fun in the car park and test a few things.. Well, I forgot the drum mag at home so I was left with the vsr, one mag, no pistols nor spare AEGs... Well fuck me I had some fun Basically played defense all morning, circling around attackers and plinking at them from the side/rear, sometimes people would walk past me (wearing RG trousers, RG short sleeve shirt and grey backpack) without noticing.. Also people complimented the gun, apparently it's inaudible at 10 metres and very, very hard to pinpoint within 5. All I have to do is sort the hop consistency (power is bang on, less than 1 m/s deviation)...

At one point I swapped the hop arm with a Madbull Ultimate one I had laying around.. But in all honesty you're better off with a different hop unit.

AEG rubbers and barrels. These are pretty much the only aftermarket parts available along with the short axle motor, the rest is proprietary.

Yup, WellPro pumped out a few versions, some with increased mag capacity (from 1200 to 2800 rounds), longer barrels, different grips and in one photo there seems to be a retractable stock. Since we're here: I ordered some slightly wider o-rings (16.5mm ID x 2mm thickness against the stock 16x2 ones)to attempt to fix the air seal. I'm now looking at hop rubbers, usually I'd go with maple leaf but a) there's 5 and b) I only run 0.25s in this so ML is overkill, I don't need mega accuracy but I would like a few more metres of range to be on par with a half decent non r-hopped AEG. suggestions?

Snap it off with a pair of pliers, doesn't get easier than that.

Your system draws a lot of current then. I run 7,4v 1450mAh 30c batteries in my M4s and my average BB consumption per game day is about 2000 (say 5/6 fully depleted Lonex Flash Mags). The battery tester I use says that with the above conditions I get my battery from 99/98% charge down to 30ish, now I don't know that the percentage refers to, but all things considered I think my builds are at okay efficiency.. All this in full auto for the most part. Also keep in mind that semi auto fire draws way more than full auto, the current required to get the motor going is much higher than the current needed to keep the motor going once it's already spinning. It's not hard to imagine that thirsty motor + semi spam will deplete an average sized battery in a short time, but 500 shots is definitely a sign that something needs addressed in your gun. p.s. I'm confident I have butchered every electrical term and principle with this comment, sorry, I build houses and survey the land, not an electrician/electrical engineer

After 6ish years of use, my Crispi Boots started to fall apart, they became ultra rigid, lost all the grip, can't be resoled.. Gore-Tex membrane is still okay but they're not suitable for my needs anymore. So I bought these La Sportiva ones, Ultra Raptor II model: Hopefully they'll be comfortable and last a long time

My Crispi boots are giving up after 4 years of use, sole has become rock hard which is disappointing as I can't resole them without sending them back to the manufacturer, so I have decided to replace them with these: https://www.lasportiva.com/it/ultra-raptor-ii-mid-leather-gtx-uomo-marrone-34j805811 I *may* have fucked up the sizing as I may need the wide toe box version, but thankfully changing size shouldn't take too long.

Big necro Got tired of taking my Fiesta where it's not supposed to go, so I bought this two months ago: 1999 Land Rover Discovery 2 TD5. (I still love and use the Fiesta, just a bit less now)