Skara

Forums survive for two reasons: Quality content and filtered access to it. You can't have only one of them, there is no quality content without filtered access and vice versa. A simple registration process (provide an email address, a username and a password) is a formidable tool to keep most of the retards away. Look at facebook pages, almost all of them are shitholes where the same questions are asked over and over and over again in a 15 minutes span from one another, where half the comments make you want to commit a genocide and where people mostly parrot whatever the celebrity of the month said. Also as Tackle said, spoon feeding information is wrong... What was the saying? Give a man a fish.....

TM AEGs aren't worth it imo. Yes they work as advertised out of the box, yes the assembly quality is great and there are barely any cases of short term malfunctions but... Once they break they are kind of a nightmare to properly fix without throwing away half the internals. A teammate had this CRW high cycle M4 that worked really well for a couple of years and then stripped the piston. Now there is fuck all left of the original parts inside, I think the motor and tappet plate spring are the only survivors, we had to change the gearbox shell, gears, arl, trigger contacts, piston head, cylinder head, cylinder, nozzle, tappet plate. Everything basically. I provided many parts free of charge because he's a friend, but damn, if he was to pay for all of them it would have been stupid expensive considering how much he paid for the gun in the first place. Same goes for the vsr, by the time one has done all the steps to make it last/bear 2 joules of energy he will be left with the whole innards being outside of the gun body. GBBPs and NBBs otoh are fantastic and don't really need anything except for a hop rubber if running heavy BBs. Can't comment on NGRS because I don't like the idea of recoil and blowback on an electric so you'll never see me own one.

My bad. I've always associated the name with the horribad system. In any case it's an ancient name I haven't heard in literal years, back then they were "the poop" alongside Classic Army funny to see how well the whole thing turned out

Following up on my PCC/PDW thread, the replacement gun arrived. Which I promptly emptied and transferred the KA PDW parts into. Now it looks something like this:

Ah yes, that genius idea from G&G to create a huge air leak to move a completely unrealistic and unnecessary part Good riddance.

Forget QD points if you don't plan on moving the sling over. Two simple paracord loops will allow you to anchor it wherever you like

One thing that will always puzzle me is how most of these parts are "one dimensional", designed around ONE part (stock upper receiver in this case) without taking in consideration what's available on the market. With that being said, TDCs are a well established upgrade that more and more manufacturers are incorporating in their designs, a few of them actually include drilling jigs (either made of metal or "single use" plastic/3d printed parts) to have a clean end result, which will also drop manufacturing costs for things like dials and leverages in general. Now I am not saying those chambers suck, but from a designing perspective they're less efficient and convenient than, say, the first iteration of the Stalker TDC kit. Okay you need an additional tool (hex key) to adjust the hop, but let's be real for a second, unless one brings 6 mags with 6 different BB weights in them, there is absolutely no reason to set the hop mid game, especially in a pistol that doesn't see much use outside of close range cqb environments or close range backup to a primary that requires a MED.

Is it possible to have a picture of the sector gear? They are usually very hard wearing (esp G&G gears) so unless something has gone horribly wrong I don't see how the sector can get chewed before the piston does... Also, regarding delayers, I would not simply throw one in there and hope for the best, gearbox timing is something a lot of people get wrong and then try all sorts of voodoo magic in a desperate attempt at recovering whatever fps/feeding they lost. Neither of these things is complicated to understand or fix, but both of these things require a minimum of thinking ahead.

Given a constant velocity, yes. To have a 100% honest reading though, I guess the chrono needs to be setup in a way that the end of the barrel sits in the same exact position every time, relative to the first sensor and then needs to take into account the reduction in velocity given by drag, measured (or calculated) for each bb weight, in relation to the distance between the two sensors. And then everything needs to be certified somehow so that the readings can be used, should the need arise, in legal matters.... Something nobody hopes to resort to.

Go in this order: pick hop rubber pick barrel fix possible air leaks pick spring. You'll be amazed at how many FPS you can squeeze out of a M90 spring when your compression set is air tight Hop rubber wise, first choose a bb weight you're comfortable with, it could be anything from 0.25g to 0.32.. I personally use 0.32s for everything except my Well minigun (0.25s, it's a rather expensive gun to run), regardless of the situation/field. Then pick something that will actually lift the desired weight. I personally use Maple Leaf Super Macarons in 70° hardness, 60s do work well too, 50s are too soft and cause issues. MRs can work too although I had issues with them. Next, don't pick an ultra tight barrel (6.02 is borderline too tight imo) otherwise you'll be at higher risk of jams and mayhem inside the gearbox. In my experience 6.05 is the best diametre. Sort any air leak and replace components accordingly (most likely the nozzle, buy one with o-rings, keep it polymer though). At this point you can change the spring to match the desired power output.

This aged like fine wine. Receivers (yes, both) are badly bent, I knew there was something off but didn't pay too much attention until yesterday night. Upper is not compatible with other brands as it's 3/4mm longer. Buying a replacement from King Arms is ludicrously expensive because of postage and import fees (€70+, not even counting the price of the receiver set itself) which makes it cheaper to just buy a new gun. At this point there is a whole new gun I'm looking at.... Stay tuned for more OCD autism

Sounds like your motor is too low, so it just barely engages the bevel gear (read it's chewing it away). Whenever you adjust the motor height, you should: a) plug the weakest battery you own to minimize emotional collateral damage; b) start with the motor HIGH, that way should anything happen it'll just stop instead of shredding something. Keep adjusting (read unscrewing) by a quarter turn at the time until the sound is crisp/not as scratchy, if you keep going you'll hear the sound change to a low-ish note of scratching, this means you've gone too far and the motor is now too low. Find the sweet spot in the middle. Cut-off is not near the motor, it's next to the trigger and doesn't affect noise.. You probably meant the anti reversal latch, which engages the bevel gear, but that generally doesn't do anything apart from wearing itself out at a stupid angle. A worn anti reversal is recognizable because every time the gun stops firing you'll hear the gears slowly spin in reverse under tension from the main spring and the next shot will be a double feed.

Find one that isn't yours nor the site's, you'll have a pretty good measure of which one is busted. If you're in the market for a new one, then you may look at the Acetech 5000, it's essentially the good ol' Xcortech mk3200 but in a different casing and with a few more functions.

Did you chrono on 0.28s at home? Some guns do lose an awful lot of energy by switching to heavier BBs

Very strange, a mosfet shouldn't in any case interfere with the mechanical operation... Could it be the LCT gearbox being "speshul"? The same way E&L boxes are slightly off spec?

Is the FCU board scratched?

Noticed Well, no Steyr AUG for me then

Aww, that's pretty bad! Are you 101% sure you didn't mess up the shimming while installing the Aster? Because if care was taken in doing so there is no chance a single board mosfet like an Aster would affect the tappet plate movement. Care to take a longer, non slowed down video of semi&full auto fire? Full auto is actually better for the trigger contacts than semi, there is indeed a voltaic arc whenever the two blades are close enough, but once they touch they're "safe" until the circuit is opened again, whereas semi spam will repeat the voltaic arc part once every pull of the trigger (one long pull to let off 30 bbs is better than 30 pulls to let off 30 bbs, 29 less arcs for the same result).. Also motor blah blah battery blah blah, but it's irrelevant to the topic at the moment

Lonex flash mags. They fit pretty much everything. I prefer the metal stanag ones because they also happen to fit in EVERY M4/5.56 pouch out there, whereas the polymer ones don't.

Now THAT would be interesting to have.

My king arms pdw is out of commission because of a ssssssploded bearing.. So now I have yet another Retro Arms gearbox coming along with 8mm steel bushings and 3 SHS double bearing motor towers.

Just got back from the first (and most likely only) night game of the season, took the opportunity to try out the new 5" abomination and the new thermal optic. I'm genuinely impressed by the rifle, I didn't expect such degree of consistency from such a short barrel, in many occasions I literally threaded the needle by making silly shots through tiny gaps in the foliage. Thermal delivered as expected, maybe a bit too much at first as the screen was overwhelmed by heated rocks and roots that had sat under the sun all day, making the image a bit confused, but once we went deeper in the woods where the sun didn't roast the ground as much.... Well.... It kinda felt like cheating, in one game I completely mopped the floor with the attackers, spotting them from far away and letting off small bursts when they were in range.. so much so that in the last two games I didn't even turn it on as it didn't feel right to be the only one who could see.. In any case, I will use it again next time, gotta understand and exploit its potential and most important, its limitations in different scenarios. One thing I didn't do (not on purpose) was to take some time and teach new people how to approach night games, while it's preferable to not walk on clear paths during daytime, at night it's the opposite, way less noise generated and unless skylining it's very difficult to actually see someone without nods/thermal/torches.. Kit used: Belt kit Small pack Lightweight summer hiking trousers Short sleeve shirt

https://imgur.com/a/sightmark-mini-wraith-thermal-xFhianx link to the album where I may or may not upload more in the future

Santa came mega early this year... Sightmark Wraith Mini Thermal riflescope.