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Rogerborg

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Posts posted by Rogerborg

  1. On 25/07/2021 at 14:53, ibo7 said:

    I seem to have lost the spring but that still doesn't fix the issue, the issue is the trigger bar doesn't go forward enough when the trigger is pulled

     

    Hmm, the triggers are pretty mushy, but the bar does need to be pushed down in order for it to engage the trigger.  I'd definitely want to replace that spring. Ah, I did take a (bad) picture of it. The stock one is slightly conical, larger at the bottom where it pushes on the bar, but anything that fits might help.

     

    image.png

  2. 1 hour ago, AirsoftNewb said:

    the idea of get an m4 like everyone else... its boring.

     

    Indeed, but as a first gun, which will likely become a backup or loaner, they make sense.  Cheap, plentiful, easiest to find spares and upgrade parts for, and fairly easy to sell on when you make the mistake of buying before playing and then realise that airsoft isn't for you.

     

    Although, all that said... ;) 

     

    image.png

  3. 1 hour ago, Homeless Snail said:

    I just noticed... I was going to get a G&GSR-30 from a store near me and the price just went from 359.99 to 415£... Amazing...

     

    It's actually surprising that prices haven't jumped faster and higher than they have.  Retailers are missing a trick, fortunately for us.

  4. No need to over think it.  You already have a rotary hop, so just drop in a Maple Leaf rubber and you should be able to lift any BB that you can afford.  70 or 60 degree, I wouldn't go harder. Softer will wear faster, but changing hop rubbers is cheap and quick compared to just about anything else in airsoft.

     

    Buy a heavier spring or springs, depending on your site's energy limits.  It's not an exact science, don't expect 140m / 459fps on a 0.2g out of an M140 spring, and be prepared to clip off a coil at a time and heat and flatten the end in order to tune the power.  Get a chrono, and understand whether you need to tune for Joules at the BB weight that you're using (good site), or for fps on 0.2g (bad site).

     

    You can use an outer barrel extension rather than a silencer to hide a longer barrel, e.g. https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/external-parts/outer-barrels

     

    But bear in mind that barrel quality beats barrel length.  I'm running an AOLS 455m, which to be honest is far longer than you need, it was just about willy waggling.  AOLS or ZCI are fine at the cheap end.

     

    Internals, eh, leave 'em alone. Maybe a full cylinder if you need it, and a full steel rack on the piston - although stock CYMAs shoot at up to 1.5J using a plastic rack, there's no need to change it until and unless it strips.

     

    If your motor struggles, I'd replace that rather than fiddling with the gears.  I like the Big Dragon M140 or M160 motors from Ali Express, you might as well buy honestly Chinese branded Chinese motors (or "mortors" as they say on the packaging ;) ). 

     

    Locking to semi is just a case of cutting a bit off the selector plate.  I'd suggest buying a spare one for that and keeping the stock one safely aside in case you want to go back to full auto.

     

    image.png.df2a7449ac9fbe692fed4edd603ea3df.png

     

    Heaviest BBs that you can lift and afford, and don't expect instant magic from it, you'll have to tune and tweak it.  One handy thing about having a longer inner barrel hidden inside a suppressor or extension is that you can remove the outer and rotate the inner if you have consistent curve to one side from the barrel being slightly rotated.

  5. Sure, it would be interesting to see what you've come up with.

     

    It's not that insane an idea, you're just using a leaf rather than a coil spring to shove a piston down a cylinder, and let's be honest, we're all playing with toys.

     

    If it's draw-and-release rather than drawing to cock a latched spring, then consistency might be an issue, and CQB sites in particular might want to take a hard look about what it's really capable of, as opposed to how long a pull you use for chrono.

  6. 1 hour ago, loctez said:

    But nothing, I asked the marshalls to ask for it at the next briefing, they didn't.  Asked again, and they didn't.  In the end I had to shout up myself.  Nothing.  I explained to them clearly that someone has knicked it and they simply said I shouldn't leave things on the floor. [...] boat loads of people "live" firing in the safe zone with no eye pro on

     

    Well, that's a giant bag of dicks, and no mistake.  What an appalling attitude.  What site should we be avoiding?

  7. On 24/07/2021 at 00:14, Adolf Hamster said:

    Ofc i dont know what the answer is

     

    Training.  Take the time to ensure that all your marshals, even your mates or the ones doing it for freebies, have a clear understanding of what they're supposed to be doing, and why, both on technical issues like chronoing, and on resolving issues in game.

     

    It wouldn't take long, and even less so if you write it down.

     

    This starts with site owners, and sadly far too many of them seem to have a muddle through attitude, or that everybody knows what they're doing - or more specifically, that everybody has the same assumptions and beliefs that they picked up fifteen years ago, which isn't necessarily the same thing.

     

    Given the thankless job of trying to run a site, I'm certainly not judging, but it is so nice when you come across one that documents everything, rather than running it via Facebook or word of mouth on a "Just ask m8 lol" basis.

  8. If you have a look at 5:00 in the video above, he highlights that there should be a small spring pressing down on the trigger bar.  If it's weakened or missing, I'd replace it.  I don't recall the size offhand, but a piece of spring from inside a pen might do the job.

  9. If you're risk averse, then I'd suggest a CYMA, any of the M4s or AKs, particularly as a backup gun.  Don't be fooled by the price, cost doesn't bear much relation to reliability in airsoft.  The plastic on the cheapest M4s is pretty shoddy, and there's nothing fancy in there until you reach the Blue or Platinum models, but they're robust enough and everything can be upgraded as time, budget and inclination allows.

     

    Evos in particular have run hot and cold on QC, with the gears shredding in short order.  That's supposed to have been sorted now, but it's not something I'd like to gamble on at the price.

  10. Do they have a fuse?  I honestly can't remember, I've rewired mine and gone with Deans connectors.

     

    They are quite fiddly to disassemble, with lots of little parts to lose, but there's a comprehensive guide here:

     

     

    And I'd always recommend buying a basic multimeter which takes so much of the guesswork out of it.

     

    Sight unseen I'd expect it's either a broken solder connection, or the trigger, which is a teeny, fiddly thing.

     

     

  11. 2 hours ago, Adolf Hamster said:

    forum was only down a few days

     

    ... and we woke up in 2016, and are having the exact same "Shut up, thicko gammon" / "Shut up, thicko globalist" handbag fights that were ever so constructive then. 🙄 

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