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Rogerborg

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Posts posted by Rogerborg

  1. On 18/07/2025 at 21:41, ButcherBill said:

    the 'online talent' adjusted the hop to the point he got the best fps

     

    That's like adjusting the spring to get the straightest flight.

     

    Always* adjust hop to get straight flight.

     

    * The caveat being that applying more hop to lift heavier BBs is likely to reduce the muzzle energy a bit. If, and only if, the muzzle energy (calculated in Joules) drops dramatically, you might want to under-hop a bit, and lob BBs at longer ranges.  But we're talking serious drops - I've run guns down to 0.8J while lifting 0.32g BBs, without being disadvantaged compared to running the same gun at 1.1J with 0.2g, due to the magic of square-cube science.

  2. 3 hours ago, Tommikka said:

    There was much more credibility for the retailer who just put in a tick box of “I promise that I am buying this RIF for legal airsoft skirmishing” (and if I recall correctly is no longer in business)

     

    Fat Bob's, I believe.

  3. On 12/07/2025 at 21:30, Bnjemann said:

    retailers stop accepting it without seeing proof its being used in cosplay

     

    Doesn't matter, as it's not a defence.  You could argue it's a "theatrical performance", but then why not argue that?

     

    I wouldn't shed a tear if Airsoft World came a cropper over it - they know exactly what they're doing, and the observable lack of enforcement will be inciting other retailers to follow suit. Better that we lose one retailer than many.

  4. On 06/07/2025 at 11:07, ibo7 said:

    I have a Cyma Glock AEP but its currently gathering dust as it seems the motor stopped working and it's beyond my capabilities to fix. It was a fun little pistol with the full auto but the trigger response was terrible, felt like a full second after pulling the trigger before a BB actually fired!

     

    The stock nimh batteries were always a joke, any sort of 7.4V lipo that you could squeeze in was instantly better.

     

    believe the motors are also used in RC cars, but I never bothered uPgRaDiNg mine. In fact, it's currently in the Box of Shame awaiting re-assembly.

  5. Oh, is this for garden use rather than skirmishing?  The ASG Ruger is quiet, can be had for under £50, but comes in at 1.3J.  You can verrrry carefully file down the hammer to reduce that if you want to skirmish it.

     

    If this is purely for slinging BBs at short ranges, you could also consider an AEP. Any of the CYMA AEPs will make more noise from the motor than the pop from the tiny cylinder.

  6. On 29/06/2025 at 20:36, ButcherBill said:

    It's a plug & play

     

    Re-re-emphasised, unless your gun is already wired for a mosfet, you'll have to do a bit of soldering.  Without a mosftet, the circuit is very simple, with the trigger just acting as a switch.

     

    mosfet_mod_1.png

     

     

    With a mosfet, the power wires run from the mosfet to the motor, and you'll need to rewire the trigger tabs as signal wires to the mosfet, generally using thinner wiring.  It's not complicated, just a few dabs of solder, but there's no avoiding it.  And you'll have to open the gearbox to do it, unless you have a V3 where the trigger tabs are accessible from outside.

     

     

  7. 14 hours ago, Colin Allen said:

    you do have to open the gearbox to do some rewiring unless you are fitting it to a V3 gearbox

     

    Repeated for emphasis. With a V3 gearbox, the trigger tabs protrude outside, so you can just solder the trigger wire onto them. I fitted a Perun AB++ to a G36 V3 without opening it.

     

    You will have to do a bit of soldering though.  The only zero-effort solution is to pay a tech.

  8. 10 hours ago, Ryfoolz said:

    I like the idea of something snappy and reliable out of the box

     

    Like an AAP-01?

     

     

    10 hours ago, Ryfoolz said:

    What are you guys running for a woodland backup or CQB main

     

    Like, an AAP-01, man.  Actually the AAP-01C Shinobi.

     

    What does your AAP not do that you'd want it to do?

     

    Mine has a Maple Leaf rubber, and a [checks emails] Maple Leaf barrel as well, mostly just because I had an extra 1cm or so to play with after adding an adaptor and tracer unit (indoors) or loudener (outdoors).  It's not laser beam consistent, but it rarely produces a wild shot.  Given the fixed slide, a DIY TDC mod would be my next port of call: just drill, measure - oops -  just measure, measure, drill, tap, and grub screw.

  9. 12 hours ago, GiantKiwi said:

    Some UK retailers are truly taking the piss on GBBR's at the moment - a certain retailer literally charging double for KWA masada's recently comes to mind.

     

    I mean, if they actually stand behind a warranty, and keep parts in stock, and have techs who can fix them, I can see where the markup is.

     

    Iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiif.

  10. 12 hours ago, StoveCap said:

    even if the site dosen't measure by joule

     

    I mean, that's a good reason to not play at a site.  But then I'm surprised that the sites in question are apparently wanting a bolt-gun to come in at under 1.88J ("450fps") to begin with.

     

    Wait, unless... are these CQB sites?  🤔

  11. 19 minutes ago, The_Lord_Poncho said:

    swap out the spring

     

    I believe we're talking about the Ares DSR-1, which is a bolt-and-gas gun.  That's a peculiar one, it'd be very much down to individual sites how they'd class that, whether it's bolt (as it has one) or DMR (because the bolt pull will be super-light - I've seen gas "bolt" guns where the bolt pull is a one-finger operation).

     

    Either way, I'd be thinking in Joules, not (0.2g) FPS, given that I have no idea how much a long barrelled gas gun would Joule creep when running heavier BBs.

     

    What gas are you running it with?  Have you tried lower pressure gas?

  12. 17 hours ago, DerDer said:

    I admire the dedication of those who pain their FNs in bush war colours, to be blunt the re-sale value will be obliterated.

     

    I wonder how practical it would be to do a coat of plasti-dip first, then accents on top of that.  In principle, it could be peeled off, although it might be a sod to get it all off.

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