Steveocee

Happy to club up as it'd be well worth an early morning / long drive to play there.

No idea why I'm tagged as it's a long ass way to travel but I'm well up for it! Just need lots of notice. Preferably a Saturday as well but if it's midweek then I'll chuck a days holiday in.
I'd likely bring a buddy as well.
 
Need to @GAMBLE for this 👍

There is very little to no reason not to buy directly from Primary.
When I bought mine it came in really good time and they mark them up as "pneumatic parts for toy" so you don't get bashed by customs.
 
They're a stright up company.
 
If you wanted lesser products, Highpressureairsoft sometimes have the TAPP stuff in and there is a comapny called CT innovations based in EU (pfffft importing from US will be easier soon) but their adapters just aren't as nice or well finished as the Primary ones.

There is very little to no reason not to buy directly from Primary.
When I bought mine it came in really good time and they mark them up as "pneumatic parts for toy" so you don't get bashed by customs.
 
They're a stright up company.
 
If you wanted lesser products, Highpressureairsoft sometimes have the TAPP stuff in and there is a comapny called CT innovations based in EU (pfffft importing from US will be easier soon) but their adapters just aren't as nice or well finished as the Primary ones.

More amazing CQB sniper hate cheater DSG gameplay because they thought airsoft was fun with abuse rage quits and fight. Did I do that right? 
Second part of the morning at Skirmish CQB now up 👍
 

Killed me waiting for today. Had this scheduled since Sunday, hope you enjoy.
 

Killed me waiting for today. Had this scheduled since Sunday, hope you enjoy.
 

I dread the day I have a problem and @Sitting Duck answers it.
 
Man you are so awesome and your descriptions and answers are literally perfect but dude, you make the guy who wrote the bible look like he wrote a post it note lol

I'd need a bit more info tbh to understand it correctly...
So excuse a ramble on this shit about what I sometimes do...
 
As been mentioned AB can be an issue if it brakes & stops on a tanner as they say
(leaving COL just slightly raised)
 
Personally I don't use or have AB (except in the m904g)
 
Lockup's can often occur releasing the trigger too early (get gun running at say 18rps+ helps avoid this)
 
People think they MUST have AB - ergh no you don't
ensure COL is in good condition, replace with steel one if fucked
(see if it sticks to motor = steel/ferrous or crappy stock alloy which will wear more over time)
 
On a gun that will likely spam on semi a lot - I tend to use a steel COL
next I carefully - VERY CAREFULLY file down with a smoothed curved tip the trigger tip that activates the trolley
**** NB - I HAVE SPARE TRIGGERS SO I CAN AFFORD THIS RISKY MOD ****
 
The idea is to have JUST enough of the trigger's tab pushing the trolley but will pop ASAP
(rather than 2mm tab popping later)
The risk is on a full trigger pull to its limit it will jump off the trolley at full pull
so then you try to limit the final pull by adding material/screw or what have you to hand
 
in v2's the force required to pop the trolley is much greater than on v3's I've found
especially at full pull, where the v2 trolley is rammed up to the hilt so the COL is fighting to raise the trolley & pop
so if you can limit the final travel point - there will be a bit of room in front of trolley to allow some "give" to pop more easily
(the v2 trolley works but it has it flaws like at full travel, plus the trolley return posts can break on old v2 boxes
yeah the v2 box has a number of qwirks or flaws to say the least imho)
 
When you are testing a v2 & v3 trolley popping by rolling sector or gears whilst pulling the trigger
the v2 requires more force than the v3 I've found - plus the trolley return stop is a thick part of casing
so unlikely it will break like old v2 posts
also be careful if popping the v2 COL manually by hand with thin screwdriver...
if you pop the v2 by hand yourself & pop it too high, the trolley may jump up so high, when it returns it gets gets stuck
all crooked & wedged against the post, failing to drop/settle back into level position
(then you gotta open the box up to correct the wedged v2 trolley - so test by rolling sector/gears)
 
The above & more is a bit of a wank to mess around with, unless you are a tart with OCD like me
I don't fuck about with manual hairline triggers anymore as such, but look to reduce pull & take up slack instead
 
Test trigger from safe/rest & how much play you can feel before it engages trolley...
I don't add material so much now, but have a few "speed triggers" = shitty flat triggers with a bit of slack
& they often at full pull start to jump off the trolley....
(so nowt to lose as they say)
 
I bend the trolley tab - couple of light taps with hammer or manually bend tab in vice/molegrips
so there is virtually no play - you need a smidge of play to allow trolley to settle after popping & reset properly
but fuck the days of adding bits of material and hoping the epoxy holds on trigger tab & even trolley - fuck that crap
so just take up the slack from safe/rest point - hardly any play in trigger/trolley
(if you go too nuts - bend back slightly and/or file it down a whisker)
 
filing - ensure the trolley tab is not too sharp, slightly smooth/round the edges that the trolley edge can glide off
rather than a sharp edge holding the trolley
try to set the trolley limit - reinforced gearboxes have a trolley limit tab often in top half of box
here add a small bit of material (hard plastic/alloy epoxy onto the tang of trigger)
so now the trolley pull is lessened at full pull to avoid stiffness when popping
or prevent trolley jumping off trigger tab at full extended pull
 
So after all that crap, the trigger pull is reduced (at final limit)
there is nigh on no slack before trolley moves
you can also partially straighten the copper prongs, so they are less flared
(thin nose pliers can do this without stripping down the switch into its components)
leave a slight tiny flare, just reduce flaring of contacts so switch engages sooner
fuck adding bits of solder & shit to trolley contact - slightly straighten the contacts will work quite well
 
test trolley makes contact & slips inside the straighter prongs, hopefully very little of trigger tab is pushing trolley
so that as soon as COL lifts it pops ASAP, but due to the nature of no AB there will be some slight over-spin/cycle
BUT not as bad as before as the COL/Trolley is popping asap just as the piston is released
and pops JUST the motor begins to lurch to full speed with no load any more
and the chronic overspin is greatly reduced and less variation I have found in where the piston parks pre-cocked
 
The trolley pops asap, the box overspins/pre-cocks less
(still will overspin/precock more on 11.1v than on 7.4v - duuhhh)
BUT no way as much overspin as previously on std stock stuff and/or with worn COL etc...
 
A bit of fucking about, but not really as much as the tedious hairline trigger project
with a lot less gluing & filing than on hairline project
 
YES - there is some risk - but most of it is on just the trigger itself
& I'm sure most have a spare trigger or two lying around to play with
coz that really is all you are going to modify, by bending that tab, filing it down a smidge
ensuring it is smoothed & just a millimetre or so pushing the bottom of the trolley foward so it pops asap as the COL rises
(but ensuring you limit the trolley's final travel point somehow if there is a stop tab in box
or add material to case/rear of trigger on case where it pivots etc....)
 
So you get a "reduced trigger pull" that pops asap, reducing overspin etc... etc... without need for AB imho in snappy builds
(PS - add a tiny tiny smear of grease ffs to trolley & trigger tab to ensure it glides smoothly off when it pops)
 
Problem is due to TM compatibility BS & high quality precise Chinese engineering to fine tolerances (sarcasm)
these components are made to be very forgiving at times, meaning there are a lot more play/slack tolerance
so that you get a lot of trigger play at times before trolley engages and when the cheap alloy COL wears
it struggles to pop trolley (failing sometimes when really worn), which has a little more quickly at full pull
(where the COL was fighting more to pop trolley rammed home into switch)
So it all pops much much later and overspins more as the motor speed ramps up on release of piston etc....
 
Try popping a v2 - using the sector rotating by hand at full pull & feel the resistance
then try a v3 - much less resistance, this extra resistance will increase wear on alloy COL's imho
so if you reduce trigger travel, lower the height of tab engaging trolley (risky), take up some slack etc...
 
The whole operation will function more precisely (if lucky & done correctly with a few hand tests)
popping as early as possible, less resistance/wear & much less overspin & even less wild variation where piston stops
 
Then you won't need AB in quite a few cases/builds using the old school trigger/trolley setup
so you won't get it stopping dead with a risk of lockups & increase heat from AB that you probably no longer really need
 
reduce trigger pull if possible, less tab height pushing the trolley forward = it all pops asap
so less overspin & no real need for very strong AB or even no AB in most builds
 
lockup from auto to semi - well shit can happen sometimes
unless you use a fancy mosfet that ensures cycle is complete on auto
but a tiny bit of time taking up some slack, reducing the lift required to pop trolley etc...
will reduce overspin & need for many cases of strong AB imho
 
with the motor you are using it should enough grunt to fire no matter if it is 99% precocked
(unless the motor/wire is a bit crap)
so think your lockup is down to very strong aggressive AB, leaving the COL slightly raised (dead zone) on semi
a bit of trigger tuning & you won't need aggressive AB in most builds I reckon

Additional bit....
 
thought you was referring to M4's/v2's
for reg v3's the main component is this bit..

 
the silver part, file down the point a little from the back at a slightly different angle
& round/smooth it at the edge - test in gun
v3's you can lift the COL yourself with fine screwdriver as the trolley doesn't risk sticking like on v2's
if jacked up too high - you'll understand why there is a guide/rail on the v2 COL arm to guide the trolley back
without jumping too high & wedging itself at the trolley post
Anyway - v3 trolleys pop with less resistance than v2's I've found,
can test by activating the COL with screwdriver
but best test is rolling the gears/sector and get it to pop
JUST as the COL starts to rise and you feel the slight resistance & POP whilst the COL continues to rise
 
At that point - you have tweaked/tuned the trigger to trolley to pop as early as possible
which will reduce overspin on a non-AB gun - it will overspin a little bit (bit more on 11.1v)
but nowhere like crazy or double firing (if COL in good condition etc....)
 
weird thing that the v3 trigger/trolley/shuttle seems to move forward and slightly downwards as engages the contacts
so less likely to jump off at full max pull like the v2 can/does if left unchecked or not limited somehow
 
you can lessen the pull length by epoxy some material like 1mm plastic
(old sim/credit cards tend to 0.7mm thick)
between the black & silver components - just below the silver pivot axle lugs dooberry
(or just on one side only where the lug that sticks through top half of gearbox safety mechanism
 
anyway - the old school v2/v3 triggers, see if you can CAREFULLY reduce the height of trigger tab that activates trolley
so that the trolley pops up asap just as piston is release before motor ramps right up
it is a faff I'll agree & has some risks, so ONLY attempt if you have some spare bits or try it on a shitty spare box first
 
It does work to reduce overspin on non AB snappy builds
(and depending how nutz you go fine tuning it all, improve trigger travel/response a bit)
but fuck trying the hairline shit on an old school trigger switch - to get it anywhere near a real hairline is a lot of agro
and imho is never going to be like an ultra fine hairline ETU setup (and certainly not binary speedsoft crap either)
 
get gun running at 20rps or more - no more releasing trigger too early risk
turn off AB bollox, fine tune trigger to trolley to reduce any overspin
(that is what I tend to do - if I can be bothered or want to take a little bit of time, but sod hairline crap)
 
in very rare cases some sectors have the COL cam set later than usual - like 1 tooth later
so with those odd reject or piss poorly made sectors you will get more overspin
but only found one gear with cam 1 tooth out/later
if you look carefully - the one on the right will release the piston a tooth earlier at least
allowing the motor to spin up to full speed before the cam approaches the COL to pop trolley
(much more overspin)
 

 
(but this is a rare example, but if your sector is a bit retarded then yes you will get more overspin)
 
biggy pic to see more closely...
 

I am very impressed with it. It's tight enough in places to get the intensity but the middle more open part is so well placed to not make it easy to pass from one end to the other. With the numbers currenlty due to covid as well it feels empty even when everyone is in game. I think it could probably push up to about 10 per side before it started to peak it's numbers.

Yeah, been open about a month or 2 and is 15 mins away from me. Owned by a top bunch who have the well established Skirmish woodland nearby. I've found with a lot of time on my hands recently, YouTube content helped me while away the days, if I can provide even a distraction from boredom I'm super happy.
If you do ever head over please do give me a shout, would love to accompany and play shoulder to shoulder with a fellow forum buddy.

Looks like a good place.  Unfortunately too far for me to go 😟

I've started a YouTube channel dedicated to my airsoft stuff. I only intended the footage to be clipped together so my kids could see what I do when I go absent from parenting for the day but thought why not stick them on YouTube so I can be immortalised in history as being a nobody?
 
Link to my channel right here
 
 
First airsoft video I've ever made. Yeah the camera quality could be better (not moaning at £30 cam though) and yes the editing and transitions should be better (not a Vegas genius) but hopefully you watch/like/sub/enjoy it.
 
 

I've started a YouTube channel dedicated to my airsoft stuff. I only intended the footage to be clipped together so my kids could see what I do when I go absent from parenting for the day but thought why not stick them on YouTube so I can be immortalised in history as being a nobody?
 
Link to my channel right here
 
 
First airsoft video I've ever made. Yeah the camera quality could be better (not moaning at £30 cam though) and yes the editing and transitions should be better (not a Vegas genius) but hopefully you watch/like/sub/enjoy it.
 
 

I've started a YouTube channel dedicated to my airsoft stuff. I only intended the footage to be clipped together so my kids could see what I do when I go absent from parenting for the day but thought why not stick them on YouTube so I can be immortalised in history as being a nobody?
 
Link to my channel right here
 
 
First airsoft video I've ever made. Yeah the camera quality could be better (not moaning at £30 cam though) and yes the editing and transitions should be better (not a Vegas genius) but hopefully you watch/like/sub/enjoy it.
 
 

Borrow some .43s and see how it measures up. It may just pull you under by those extra couple FPS and then after a day shooting like a loon on .43 your spring may sag just enough to break out the .45s again.

No.
Elite
Shooting
Centre
 
aka Mike Cripps place.

Arrived an hour or so ago. CM16 SRS in Battleship Grey. This is my new "project" gun. Granted it's currently 3rd in line but couldn't resist at the price.

 

Arrived an hour or so ago. CM16 SRS in Battleship Grey. This is my new "project" gun. Granted it's currently 3rd in line but couldn't resist at the price.

 

I did try to speak with the courier via the contact page (all phone numbers were automated) as I just wanted to get my parcel. They wouldn't speak to me as the consignment was booked through a 3rd party and referred me to them.
 
I called Extreme up and spoke to Chris who certainly sounded a lot more concerned and said he'd chase it up. An hour later I had a call, parcel is indeed in the Coventry depot and courier are working to get it on track again and will update me tomorrow.
 
Firstly I hope I have it for the weekend.
Secondly, I'm a huge believer in a judge of company not being when things are right but how stuff is handled when it goes wrong, up until the phone call today I was starting to think about chargebacks from credit cards. I'm not unreasonable and I prefer to be right with people but I am getting to the point now of just wanting item or refund.
 
Fingers crossed I can put a positive end to this shenanigan.

No and I don't but I can blame them for giving 0 Fs and not trying to remedy the situation.

£420 shipped for something I ordered for £169 last week (and mine's new in single tone battleship grey) 🤣
 

Bet the bipod comes off after your first game out with it.

Hello and welcome to the community 😁