AshOnSnow

Really appreciate the reply - I actually used this video to get the rest of my gearbox back together - but it doesn't show the bolt catch which is what I have left to do. This is exactly what I found that there are lots of videos on gearbox assembly disassembly, gun strips, even mag release, but no bolt catch videos for AEG, only for GBBR.

Yeah, very chav! And great if you're from the East End... 😂
 
This will not work... unless you're the target!

Here is the real secret we all look silly because we are playing with toy guns and dressing up and all we get at the end of it is looking like we were in a horny ladies bingo night.

Totally understand, but to have served in the Falklands you need to be getting on for 60 now; so assuming your a couple of decades younger than that, I'd be surprised if anyone called you out for walting by throwing on a maroon lid, but totally understand your reasons for not doing.
 
A Beret/Unit Flash and Medals are totally different; medals I couldn't forgive (and you'd be surprised what's on eBay unfortunately) but a bit of insignia (especially of a conflict your age clearly suggests you weren't part of) I wouldn't say is an issue. 

Just bought a Nissan Juke. Love it, but need to sell it or swap for a qashqai for the extra space.

I'm calling school project.  We didn't even get an incoherent SurveyMonkey to rant about.
 

Also guys if I zero in my sight from a distance of say 20/25 meters do I zero in the 3x to a futur distance or same ?

Subject to change when my FRV belt gets here, but this is my ‘Heavy DMR’ loadout. I use it for when I set up shop in an overwatch position, but have some fire power to hold my ground when being overrun in MED. Certainly not a run and shoot loadout lol. 
 
WAS recon
double stack m4 pouch 
2x rifle/pistol pouches
2x FMA mp7 mag holders
TMC mp7 holster
WAS back panel

First clean your barrel/bucking
 
then use a heavier weight bb, say 0.25 upto a max of 0.28-0.3's (they get a lot more expensive, and the benifits are minimal on 350fps)
 
then an upgrade your hop rubber (I personally like g&g green or a tm rubber)
 
then look into hop units/barrels etc etc
 
why this order ... simplicity and cheapness 

A new sodding kitchen which not only am I paying for, I have to fit. So no time for pew-pew even if there was any money...

Got a new battle belt coming...
 
 

That's Barrett Boy, named that way because, well...

Where these expensive? 
 

Call her aloce and have an red ace of spades symbol on the side 

And it is done. Mostly. My one of a kind Scar-L. Seen here in it's standard and Thermal versions. God was this a PITA to make... preforms well though.
 
Started out life as a VFC Scar-L, perhaps the best looking Scar out there. Then I got my hands on a SRU prototype kit that is made for WE Scar-L GBBRs. I decided to make the gun run by HPA, as there is no way to get this working with anything other than gas - there is no room for a motor after all. So in goes a Polarstar Jack. I had to whittle down the trigger guard, as the WE apparently has a thinner one - the VFC's was too wide to fit. Then, out came the dremel, as the base of the gearbox stuck out enough that I had to open up space in the stock for it. That took a long time, and is one of the few things left to do (notice in image 3 there is a small gap between the halves - I need to remove about another cm of material). Finally the stock went on (the front half required no modification). I enlarged and angled the hole for the Jack's line next, as the pre-drilled hole needed to move backwards about an inch to work. Next thing - the trigger. This kit extends the trigger of the gun to the front half (obviously). Some light sanding was needed to make the trigger pull smooth. Several layers of electrical tape were added onto the pull face of the trigger's triggering piece, then cut to size, and superglued into place. The triggering mechanism itself was too tight, so the front half of it had to be removed as well. This created the issue of the trigger bar not holding the trigger mechanism, so it was superglued, then the glue seal was broken to create enough surface to create friction so it would catch, but not be permanent (as I still needed to be able to take apart later). Then the SRU kit was done. I put a Venom Tech 6.02 TBB in it, and a Madbull red hop that I had to cut down slightly (that thing is tight...). I also got one of SRU's rails, which I had to cut down with my dremel to fit my Eotech (visible in image 1 and 3) I also had to replace both my FCU wire and my trigger switch, as both had broken somewhere along the way. I added my genuine Eotech 552 with the LBC (Laser Battery Cap), a Knight's Armament QD suppressor, one of my 950 lumen Powertac e5 lights on the right rail, a Contour mount for my facecam on the left, a Safariland single point sling mount, and I use my Gen 1 Magpul P-Mags in a Safariland dual-mag mount.
 
It's taken me about three months to make, and Im happy with the result. 
 

 

 

£110 on eye pro.
 
Bolle Raider w/ Prescription inserts. £50 on the kit, £60 on the prescription lenses. Well worth it IMO.
 

£110 on eye pro.
 
Bolle Raider w/ Prescription inserts. £50 on the kit, £60 on the prescription lenses. Well worth it IMO.
 

£110 on eye pro.
 
Bolle Raider w/ Prescription inserts. £50 on the kit, £60 on the prescription lenses. Well worth it IMO.