Iceni
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Posts posted by Iceni
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There's not a lot you can do with it.
Barrel should be reasonable 6.03, If it's aluminium then I would swap if for a steel ZCI. If it's brass leave it be.
https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/inner-barrels?manufacturer_filter=15
Hop unit should be as decent as any other plastic M4 hop, if you are wanting to play about buy another decent plastic hop unit with a barrel and leave the stock one alone. That way if your mods don't work as expected you have the untouched original ready to just drop back in. The rotary ZCI I've linked to is a decent unit, you sometimes have to slightly modify the back edge of the dial with a file to make it fit and turn nice when installed.
https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/hop-up-chambers/zci-prowin-style-hopup-chamber-plastic-m4
And a new rubber for it.
I'd normally recommand the prommy purple - but at £10 it's a bit expensive to learn to build a hop with.
https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/hop-up-buckings-nubs/laylax-prometheus-bucking-purple
A cheaper alternative for playing about with is the guarder 50deg - at £4 it's cheap enough to play about with and install wrongly. It's also cheap enough to have a go at a flat hop with from new.
https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/hop-up-buckings-nubs/guarder-hop-up-bucking-50-degrees
For the mainspring, If you have access to a chrono then get an M110 and have a go at cutting it down to 350fps. If you don't have access to a chrono at home then get a safe M100 spring like the ZCI.https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/springs/zci-aeg-spring-m100
Long term upgrades should include:
A decent cheap mostfet - Xcoretech XET304u or Acetech Acemos are good starter mosfets that work well and give a decent install project with the soldering iron.
Better wire.
Deans.
If you want to move onto a high ROF 7.4v build:
13:1 gears
Decent motor - SHS HT, ZCI 16TPA, ASG 30K
Bushings
Shimming
2 tooth SS
And it'll probably be due a piston ring as well at that point.
The trouble with all that is the cost. By the time you have done the basic stuff, then done the mosfet you are already at about £60 invested but no value added to the gun. Then doing the ROF build adds even more £70+ and at that point the upgrades have exceeded the base value of the gun, and again there is no real added value there. You could save another £100 and not spend that money and get a really nice mid tier gun and have the stock nuprol as your backup and loaner to friends. -
Gunman get a lot of things right.
The Grange (Gunman Coventry) have different re-spawns for different games but most games have the buddy re-spawn rule for attackers. Where you can re-spawn from any other living player who is not under fire. It's a fairly short countdown as well.
They also have static re-spawn points (mostly for defenders) with a short walk, and medic rules depending on the game.
The effect is both teams feel bigger, and the attackers have an advantage once they get rolling. The defenders having a short walk means they get pushed back at a fairly constant rate but there is always some action. Hard borders are used for the attackers so they can never push past a certain terrain location allowing the defenders to regroup and push back and the objective is normally very close to the boarder.
They want you to play, not to have to walk a mile. They also do immersive short games with the teams rotated after the result. This works very well as you have 20 minutes of madness, followed by a short break for re-arm, then 20 minutes of defence. The result of that is you never hit that point in a game where you dig in and everything stagnates.
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6 hours ago, Rogerborg said:
That's... quite some assumption.
It's not for RC planes. Unlike airsoft you have a constant amp draw in flight, And the amp draw is higher than airsoft as well.
Even a small plane isn't going to get a long flight time. 15 minutes would be decent.
The ESC should drop the power when you come close to 3.3v but it won't stop the flight, You have to land it and stop drawing power.
That's also assuming it's not an older plane the guy was using converted without a modern ESC. In that situation you have to time your batteries and work out your flight times. It's very easy to cock up.
Voltage is also an issue, Airsoft uses max voltage for ROF and trigger response - More is better. RC planes use it for prop speed, and a plane that flies well isn't going to want anywhere near full voltage unless you are stunt flying or climbing hard. So the voltage drop we see in airsoft may not be as pronounced to an RC plane user without a modern ESC controller.
I'm more than willing to believe the RC user fucked up, and then made up a story about the charger for the insurance, because if the insurance thought it was caused by neglect/ignoring safety systems then the chance of a payout diminishes.
Also look at the internals of the B6 and B6AC. There are parts in there that could cause a fire, All electrical devices can. There is however no component that would cause a spontaneous eruption of flame. Electrolytic capacitors tend to pop or explode, but it's mostly just smoke and gas pressure as the doping boils off the plates - They do make black marks but again it's mostly soot. If there were tantium caps in there then I would perhaps look at those, but there are none. Any transformers for the AC variant could be a source of fire, but again it would be through heat and the fire would start small and spread rather than explode - and there would have definitely been enough time to grab the fire extinguisher.
The only part of the Equation that can cause a spontaneous gout of flame is the battery. Externally it was good, The charger was set to 1.5A, so there is only one other explanation for the fire - human error.
QuoteI saw white smoke, then flame and the next instant big flames
White smoke, flame then a gout of flame.... = Battery fire.
Also
QuoteBatteries are put into a heavy highly fired pot and lid to contain the battery
So the battery and charger are isolated from each other. For the fire to come from outside of the pot and ignite the battery - that fire would have had to have been established and fucking hot.
The tales of the charger causing the issue just don't add up. The email author is deep in his own lies and hasn't even considered how feasible they actually are. -
On 05/08/2020 at 13:59, Speedbird_666 said:
1 lipo 2S 20C 2200mAHrs is every kept near my charging area and is always charged at no more than 1.5Amps
Well that's a crock of shit to begin with. The B6 would default to a 1C charge of 2.2 amps. So in order to get 1.5 amps the end user has taken over from the B6 defaults.
Lets assume Jonny Briggs is a retard, and set it to 1.5A, what else did they change. Lipo to Nimh mode? Lipo to LIFE? 1S? 3S? Who knows!
I'm thinking Little Jonny Bumblefuck has drained the lipo to shit, Taken it well under the safe discharge level. - This won't cause a fire.
Then set the charger to NIMH mode to try save the battery rather than accept that the B6 has told him to fuck right off. - This will cause a fire.
Lipo's that have gone under the safe discharge point become chemically unstable. Provided you don't charge them they should stay inert. Charging them back up from this state is stupidly dangerous. It doesn't matter if the battery looks perfect, and you think well it's only a 0.3v more to get back to a level where the charger will say yes to charging.... Ignoring the initial safety warning - Spooning the bastard - then attempting to lie about the charger rather than admit you fucked up is priceless.
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Depends on what you want, and what you want to spend to get there. Brand is generally the least important thing. Especially since so much or airsoft revolves about rebranding it's difficult to tell one brand from another at certain price points and models, since so many come from the same place and have the same internals.
Personally I would never buy a gun based on the gearbox or gearbox features. Gearboxes are simple things, making them more complicated or more accessible isn't worth investing in. A bog standard JG gearbox can have far more done to it, and for far less money than something that has unique parts that are required to make that gearbox work. EBB, QC springs, Split uppers, HC gearboxes are all nice features to have, but they shouldn't bump a gun price by a lot. If you are paying £100+ for those features then mistakes were made IMO.
Externals are far more important, of my 4 main guns 2 are unique. The Augs are externally stock, The M4 is a full magnesium upper and lower and of a design that is not common at all (gr300 shorty). The G3 goes even further than that with real parts and pushes what is possible with airsoft. Don't think that makes me an externals snob, I'll happily play with a £100 gun if it shoots and feels right. Both of my Augs are cheap variants.
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On 04/08/2020 at 16:45, THE FNG said:
I'm considering using it on my next skirmish (some time away) and I was hoping to bump the fps a little as they shoot 260-270 stock.
I wasnt going to touch the gearbox as they have been designed specifically for low torque motors and low power spring
Use it before you do anything to it. Make a judgement about what you want from the gun.
If you decide it needs gearbox tweaks then be warned it'll no longer be a TM high cycle. The only difference in the TM and a Snow wolf/JG/APS short AUG is the gearbox. Everything else is identical.
With that in mind If you were to want to upgrade the internals I would buy a second gearbox to play with and leave the stock TM one alone. It takes a few seconds and one screwdriver to swap the gearboxes.
It also means you have a complete spare gearbox for pissing about with, without loosing the ability to use the gun. Just be warned, it's normally cheaper to outright buy a cheap AUG variant and use it to tinker with rather than just buy a gearbox. Typically a complete JG gearbox is £50-65 if you can find them, a complete AUG from Gunfire is £100. Broken/faulty Augs are pretty common as well and you can pick them up cheap as people make several mistakes with upgrades that make them really bad, and a platform with no end of issues (this is actually false if you understand the platform).
This also means you have to be careful about upgrades, A TM HC with gearbox upgrades is no longer a TM HC and whilst you might think you have added value to it, it's probably the reverse. An upgraded JG on the other hand is still a JG and again there is no real added value in major gearbox tweaks. It's a really hard call to make upgrading an AUG you have to love it and want to use and keep it, as there are very few people that will see the value your add in upgrades.
Both of my AUGs are heavily upgraded internally:
The ASG/JG A3 has:
35K motor
Solid brass spring guide
POM silent head set
AOE correction
Stainless bushings
Shimming
Flat hop w/ prommy purple
ZCI inner barrel
ZCI Air nozzle
Oversized piston O-ring
Body sound damping - internal
Gate nanohard
Silver wire
The APS A1 has:
SHS bore up kit - cylinder - head set - air nozzle
ZCI 16:1 gears
25K motor
Solid brass spring guide
ZCI inner barrel
Prommy purple (mounded)
Stainless bushingsShimming
Oversized piston o-ring
Xcoretech xet304u
Silver wire
Both guns are very similar. The A3 is super quiet - you can't hear it outside of about 10M, And makes a fantastic mobile sniper platform for getting unseen kills.
The APS is a lot noisier but it makes up for that in it's trigger response.
If I were to do a 3rd AUG it would be to these specs:
ASG ultimate CNC 30K
13:1 gears
Short stroke 2 teeth
320mm ZCI inner barrel
Silent head set
Stainless bushings
Solid brass spring guide
Flat hop w/ prommy purple
Xcoretech xet304u
Silver wire
The hop unit doesn't need to be changed in my opinion, the stock ones are very capable, but require building correctly. Likewise you can't shim the inner barrels and there are a few tricks to making them right unlike an M4 if shimmed it'll cause all sorts of issues and it's one of the most common causes of people thinking the platform is bad.
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2 hours ago, Rodeo said:
at first it was blowing as soon as I hook power to it
Then you should have said that in the OP. Can't trouble shoot without the correct information been given.
The OP gives the impression that you could plug a battery in and it would sit idle until the trigger was pulled and then it popped.
On 30/07/2020 at 23:58, Rodeo said:I turn it on and pull the trigger, it Pops the fuse, I replace the fuse , Pops fuse again as soon as I pull the trigger
Now you say you have a dead short at all times, and can't plug a battery in. That's a different set of problems.
Now you may have a dead mosfet. I would however be tempted to pull the unit out of the gearbox and check you haven't shorted the trigger across the gearbox shells, by failing to add sufficient insulation on the install. You could also check for a short between the motor wires and the gearbox shells, It should be insulated and show no continuity.
Without having it in my hand it's a Pandora's box of speculation because we have to assume it's something you did that caused the fault. Mofsets can and do die, but more often than not they get killed rather than fail through use. -
I went the other way and got X-plane 11.
With the high res Europe mesh pack installed it's superb. I've been flying ultralights and small planes in and about the places I've lived. Whilst it doesn't render everything perfectly, it does do a very good job of road layouts. Meaning it's more than possible to navigate by road. -
The gate titan V2 has it's own inbuilt "smart fuse". It doesn't need a secondary in line one.
So bridge the inline fuse and try again.7 hours ago, Rodeo said:I replace the fuse , Pops fuse again as soon as I pull the trigger
It's probably not the titan as it's working right up to pulling the trigger, An open mosfet would shoot or short instantly as soon as you plugged in the battery.
It might be a burnt out motor, Or failed motor cap. I've had both do some pretty strange things. And because you describe the problems as happening on a single trigger pull the motor would be a prime candidate for failure.
If you have a spare motor try that, Or see if you can borrow one.7 hours ago, Rodeo said:I put a multimeter on it in diode mode across the terminals
Without knowing exactly what terminals you tested, and under what conditions (power on/power off). It's impossible to know what you were testing. A diode test isn't a Fet test. Diodes work in one way but can do several jobs and functions depending on how they get constructed, The test lets you know the polarity of the diode, and that it blocks current in one direction. It doesn't test other functions like a zener diodes breakdown voltage.
Fets on the other hand are similar but come in always open, always closed varieties depending on the power state and circuit design, They function more like a switch or relay and can not be tested without connection to all 3 legs, or in a powered state. You can test for voltage drop across a fet with a standard 2 prong multimeter, but not if it's already mounted as the circuit may drain the fet before you get chance to move terminals.
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I made my own lapping kit.
Water based diamond pastes.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/7x-THK-Diamond-PLUS-5g-WATER-BASE-polishing-lapping-paste-pastes-compound-0-25-5/153995265671?hash=item23dad54687:g:DMAAAOSw32lYwArD
And then I use a microfibre swab on an unjamming rod, and spin it through the barrel with a drill.
You'll want 2 swabs per grit level.
Use one to apply and polish, then the second with water to clean the barrel.
You will want an old barrel to practice with first, and used swabs can be used multiple times so keep every grit and it's 2 swabs separate from each other.
Grits are worked out in microns, bigger numbers are bigger abrasives. So a 5 micron is more coarse then a 1 micron.
Pick a middle grit to start with 2-3 do a few passes of the barrel with the drill, then clean it up. If there are big scores that haven't been removed think about moving to a higher grit, or doing multiple 3 micron grit passes. Once it looks good at that stage then clean it all again and start to go lower. 2 - 1- 0.5 - 0.25. There will be some haze to the finish that should be clearing up with each lowering of the grit, and by the time you get to 0.5 micron it should be looking polished - Free or scores, and be giving a straight reflection. If the reflection isn't straight then you need to inspect the barrel and make sure it's not warped and that you haven't done damage at a higher grit by keeping it spinning on one spot too long.
When complete the swabs will be black and horrible, but they will still work on future barrels.
The finish will only be as good as you. If you are not consistent with the drill and pull speed you will have issues, Likewise the swabs need to be made right so they give a nice fit that has good contact but isn't tight. -
16 minutes ago, kasaran said:
My whole purchasing of the lct g3 has been panic buying
How are you finding it? You went all quiet after buying it! -
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On 21/06/2019 at 14:25, heroshark said:
Up dated pic of my revised springer collection. I decided to replace some and let some of the duplicates go. I know it's futile taking these pics. Pissing off the wife getting them all out. 2min later getting new ones and having to do it again. Nice to have a record of these things though
. Did manage to find a bit of order to it this time too.
I absolutely love the fact all your main rifles are of older designs.
G3A3 slim, M16A2, M4A1.
Proper guns -
That's not weathered. All you have there is pre-shade.
Grey primer, White highlights.
Clearcoat - satin finish.
Mig streaker brushes - Green grey grime and Streaking dust.
Base colour - mig XB518 mixed 20 drops transparator, 20 drops acrylic thinner, 15 drops paint. Airbrushed in 3 layers.
A few spots of dark tracks on the darkest pre shade.
Weathering comes after the detail pick, and decals. -
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G&G GR300 Pro Shorty. It's very old and none of the trades were etched (just screen printed). Trust me these are the magneseum cast lower and upper.
Solid stock rather than the wire one, I have the wire one in a drawer, I just don't like the weight when the battery is in the front. -
On 03/04/2019 at 11:09, Albiscuit said:
Have read this thread and seen some mentions of airbush work and wondered if anyone uses them regularly and can answer the following:
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What are the difference between the bottom (jar fed) and top fed (Cup) style airbrushes. I ask as I found an old bottom fed one which states it would work for miniatures but all the tutorials on YT for example use the cup versions and I want to save some money
- Is there anything to consider with airbrushes, are cheap ones just as effective for BASIC hobby work? As above I dont want to spend lots of money and these things vary so much...
- Are airbrushes better than brushes, I am thinking of doing some vehicles soon and think the time saved would be helpful but with practice will it improve my painting standard overall?
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Am I ok using one at a covered table? Will I need one of the booths I have seen, or is using one in a well ventilated room ok, I dont think they do but do these things create a lot of over spray? Will I find spots on the curtains is my main question as the mrs would kill me
I use mine an awful lot. Not just for block colour either.
There are ways to shade a model using just black and white before you put the final colour on. It's all about layer thickness. You put a thin layer over that B&W layer but only just enough. The final outcome is a model with a tonal shift through the model.
For the actual airbrush, you can spend a lot or a little. The more expensive ones are not always the best to look at.
My go-to modelling airbrush is either a Mig ammo aircobra (£100+ expensive). Or an EXPO AB900 (£40). The AB900 can do everything the Mig brush can. It's just not as refined and struggles on very fine lines. It's normally the first brush I will grab as it's the one I allow to be kicking about on top of the desk.
https://www.expotools.com/acatalog/AB800-Easy-Clean-Airbrush-with-Small-2ml-Colour-Cup-AB900.html
For a compressor I have several.
I used for a very long time one of the cheap nail art compressors. They work but will only allow about 15-20 psi in continuous operation.
The next stage up from that are £60-100 and are generally called airbrush compressors. They tend to have small tanks and can be set to various pressure outputs.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AS-186-Compressor-Tank-Nail-Tatoo-Art-Spray-Gun-Complete-Airbrush-Kit-INCD-VAT/273503213852?epid=25031180469&hash=item3fae0fd91c:g:f9MAAOSw8MZbvs7q&frcectupt=trueBecause they come with a couple of brushes as well they represent everything you need. Don't expect the brushes to be decent tho. Spending that £40 on the expo one is a good basic investment.
The final stage of compressors is getting something more professional. I have one of these. It doesn't offer anything over the Ebay kit other than the ability to produce air faster and quieter. You never need one of these, having one is a luxury not a requirement.
Your paint will govern the space you need.
Water-based acrylics need nothing special. Spraying using a box on your knee or desk is perfectly fine. You won't get much overspray, and the box will catch it.
Enamels and oil-based stuff you will need ventilation. The fumes build up, and you will need a mask as well.
Dual action airbrushes are very good on paint use, and the chances of getting a lot of oversprays are minimal.
Decent paint is key to the whole thing working well.
MIG AMMo and Vallejo model air are good starter paints to use.
Some airbrush flow improver and liquid airbrush cleaner are also worthwhile. Vallejo are decent for these.
Once you have a few paints and some cleaner you can start to play about with the setup. Masking a model is easy, but you can also mount the masks on balls of masking tape to get feathered edges on the camo effects.
Watch loads of videos. MIG videos are very good to learn basics from.
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What are the difference between the bottom (jar fed) and top fed (Cup) style airbrushes. I ask as I found an old bottom fed one which states it would work for miniatures but all the tutorials on YT for example use the cup versions and I want to save some money
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Those ASG CNC motors run very cool.
I've been running the 35K version for quite some time now and it replaced the slower SHS HS, that ran very hot. Only run 18:1 7.4v so 22 ish rps. Nothing crazy.
It's not for a DSG setup tho... It would eat itself in seconds!
Nice to have you post! It's been a while!
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Just a touch hot then lol! 1.5J!! that's what almost 400fps on a 0.2.
309 is almost a perfect cut.
Polarity been wrong on the wires is something I wasn't expecting! Was that on the motor or the connector? It just shows poor QC. It's basic things like this that china guns constantly get wrong and it's a shame because the product is essentially right.
Body looks perfect. So it came with the 3 position selector rather than the standard one. That's good for you, would have been nice if CA had managed to get hold of them as well for @FreeFrag.UK
But he spent twice as much and pretty much only got a mosfet and a fancy plate on the gearbox divide, so I still stand by the JG/APS budget guns been the correct path into the AUG.
You still got the QC gearbox, Wasn't expecting that. Does it have bearings as well then?
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4 minutes ago, mcwimbo said:
A2 has a fixed carry handle, A3 has a detachable carry handle
lol, nope.
QuoteM16A3
The M16A3 is a modified version of the M16A2 adopted in small numbers by the U.S. Navy SEAL, Seabee, and Security units.[184] It features the M16A1 trigger group providing "safe", "semi-automatic" and "fully automatic" modes instead of the A2's "safe", "semi-automatic", and "burst" modes.
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Nice M16A3, I keep looking at A1's but it's going to be some time before I get one. I have a few too many unused guns as it is!
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You'll have to give me a couple of days to get pictures together but yeah no problem.
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You got exactly the right gun for the look you want. The JG would of done the job visually as well, but I think you made the right choice overall with the CA.
Same deal applies, any issues or you want advice just start up a thread and you can have what I know. I think you will find it a trouble free gun, and very comfortable.
One thing you might want is the modification to the safe bar for a single shot only position. It's a small mod that will add a 3rd position. Safe, Semi only, Semi + full auto.
Some sites will want to see some trigger control before they let you use it in semi only games without the mod. Having the mod done means it's impossible to go full auto in those games. And it costs nothing to make the modification. Just a couple of files and a sharp knife to remove a cube of plastic.
Nuprol Pioneer Defender Upgrades
in Electric Guns
Posted
I normally buy 50 at a time. It's not really any more expensive than buying 2 (£3.61), 5 (£3.99), 10 (£4.14) or 50 (£5.71). It's £2 more for 48 more rings. I normally go to somewhere like simply bearings and pick 70 shore nitrile.
I then sell them to my shooting buddies at £1 for 5 if they want them. Means they cost nothing if a couple of mates grab a set.
ASG springs are fine and it looks to have the correct number of coils for that design 28ish. The shorter spring you have is more like a ZCI spring with fewer coils in a more stout wire. You can always install the spring then turn the gearbox over using a screwdriver in the bevel gear taking it back an anti reversal click a time until it either jams or shoots. Just be warned it needs quite a bit of effort to turn a gearbox in this way. If it shoots then you have a winner, If it jams then you have a problem. And the gearbox isn't wrecked in the process.