Hef Legend
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Posts posted by Hef Legend
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So what I've done is upgraded my wire harness to the 18" cable but really didn't need it but still using it, ran it into the buffer tube hooked it to the FCU and folded it back into the buffer tube. Then using a battery extension cable like what I sent to you I plugged that into the FCU and ran it into the stock. So now the only bit I move is he battery. FCU is nice and safe.
I suppose once you've set it up once, you'll rarely have to touch it again.
Where did you get your stock from? I ordered a few bits from airsoft peak 4 days ago, I've yet to have an email or be told it's dispatched
I ordered the same charging handle as you I think was about $9.90 lol -
This is my final build. One thing I did with this unlike my SMP was tested the accuracy and range also the alignment of the nozzle as well so I could see the difference if any once the P* was installed. Also got an Amped IGL which I really do like. Thanks to Spatch I got my Prowin hop working again after the hop adjuster pin fell out. Now I'm running it with a prommy purple bucking and Namazu firefly flat nub.
Where have you run your FCU, into the stock?
On my first P* I cut out the stock same as people do when they run lipo's in the tube.
It's really annoying the FCU cable is so short and theres not enough give to push it into tube, I'm worried I'll break it lol
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This is really informatively presented.
Have you considered the slingplate airhose option, and if so, what led you to not go for it?I just didn't think it was worth the extra money at the time, using other guns with the line in the grip, I've not had any issues.
I did look into the Redline Airstock Kit but again, the additional cost was so huge for something that personally bother me. That said, they are good idea and I can see the benefit
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Exactly - it's just a macro push fitting. There's also the Redline Grip Connect - which kind of has a picture that illustrates it better than I can describe.
I'm not a big suppressor guy. If the trades are just decals you can always use a solvent to remove them - if they're laser etched that's a different deal. I bought a couple of the Big Dragon suppressors off Airsoft Peak because they were cheap on sale, foam filled and I very, very rarely use them. There are certainly ones out there with M4 trades that you can get.
I think enough with the red. Trigger cool. Selector 'eh, cool'. Anything else and you're going for the 'straight outta UKARA' look, heh. Of course though it's your baby
They are etched/engraved
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So with that line, can I trim down the current line and then have this coming through the grip? I think someone mentioned this to me before, might be worth me dropping into the thread.
What suppressors would you recommend and would just normal filler cover up the trades?
Thinking what other little things I can do just to add to the appearance. Was tempted the spray the scope mount metallic red too xD
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Probably not for the moment. But I might look to in the future.
Had nothing but hassle with this build, so not that inclined to open it up again until my heart rate has settled lol, My first one was super easy :S
I'm still waiting on a PSG-1 style grip, butterfly style charging handle, Visionking scope and a suppressor.
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Third Update: Externals and current progress pictures
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Second Update Complete: Uploaded pictures and installation of Jack. Just working on fitting the externals and boy have I had some F*** it moments tonight.
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A Noobs HPA Engine Build - My Wondrous Journey
So I thought I’d start a thread on here to document my latest Polarstar (“P*”) build, documenting what I purchased, where I purchased it from, my experience of the retailers, progress of the build, any problems/issues, some general FAQ’s and finally the finished project.
I’ll be doing this in the evenings after work, making sure to cover each step and uploaded pictures for reference.
Hopefully this can also serve as a basic guide for those people looking to get into HPA engines such as “P*”, alongside providing basic how to’s and answers to common questions.
I'm starting this tonight and will continue to update with pictures and progress in the evenings when I can. Please feel free to PM me with any questions or additional tips and I'll look to included them.
Happy Reading
Firstly….what did I buy and where:
G&G GC16 MOD0 30th anniversary Edition - Airsoft World, Link here.
Polarstar Jack (V2 Edition) - Beesting Airsoft, Link here.
Ninja LPR + 36" Braided Line (In Red) - Beesting Airsoft, Link here.
Retro Arms Speed Trigger (In Red) - Beesting Airsoft, Link here.
Retro Arms Selector (In Red) - Beesting Airsoft, Link here.
ZCI 6.02mm Stainless Steel Barrel - AK2M4, Link here.
ZCI Prowin Clone (I have both polymer and CNC in red) - AK2M4, Link here for polymer and here for CNC.
ZCI 12" Keymod Rail - AK2M4 - Link here.
APS Ver.2 Tactical Dynamic Trigger - AK2M4 - Not on website currently, was a direct order.
APS Evolution Tech Flash Hider - Ak2M4 - Not on website currently, was a direct order.
Maple Leaf Bucking and Omega Nub - Milspec Solutions, link here and here
Big Dragon Butterfly Aluminum Cocking handle - Airsoft Peak, link here
Element M16 Tactical Target Grip - Airsoft Peak, link here
VisionKing 1.25 x 26 Short Dot Scope - Ebay (VKTechLTD11), link here
Paracord - Ebay (md-flashlights-etc-ltd), link here
Pictures:
http://imgur.com/gallery/XR7VQ
My experience with these retailers:
Airsoftworld - Had no communication with them really, I simply found the item, paid for it, it arrived next working day. I've used them before though and not had any issues.
Beesting Airsoft - I cannot comment on how helpful this company has been (Danny in particular). I've purchased all of my HPA parts from them, in fact this is my 2nd P* build, 2 x Jacks, lines and regs. I can see myself using this company time and time again, happily recommending them to friends, family and fellow airsofters.
Ak2M4 - Another great company I use a lot for internal parts, especially the barrels and hop units. Honest to god, best value for money and great customer service.
Milspec solutions - Ordered from these guy quite a few times now, Spoken to Ian on a few occasion about upgrade parts etc. Always happy to offer advice, well packed and speedy delivery
Polarstar - I spoke to these guys after they did the post about adding pictures, put both my builds on there and got speaking to a chap, I told them about my experience with their products and my small issue with the short FCU, they immediately offered to send me two extended cables. Absolutely shinning example of customer service, would certainly recommend them
Airsoft Peak - My products arrived after a few weeks, took them about 6 days to process my order, but the items did arrive and the prices were great. Now I know the timelines I'd definitely use them again, but for items I don't mind waiting for.
md-flashlights-etc-ltd - Ordered some paracord, was unsure on colour/length so I gave them a ring, they were polite and helpful. I even asked about next day delivery on this order and some other paracord and I only got charged the cheaper option but had them in my hands the next morning. Will be using them for all my paracord related purchases in the future.
vktechltd - Made a best offer on a sight, then accidentally bought it now, ebay in it's wisdom then tried to make me pay for both. The guy was nice enough to cancel one of the orders......the cheapest best offer one lol I wasn't to annoyed though, would use them again as the quality of the scope is great and the item was well packaged.
Overview and quality of the parts:
This particular P* build is going to be a DMR, I'm aiming for range, accuracy and consistency, which is why I've chosen the parts I have as they've served me well in previous builds including my last P*.
My base gun is the G&G MOD0, I got this as I've installed a Jack into other G&G's gearboxes and I found them easy to work with and give good alignment. Not to mention the price for AirsoftWorld was great considering it's full metal.
I picked up another Jack as the I was really happy with the first one and for the price it's a great start in the HPA engine world. The regulators I use are the Ninja LPR's, they are easy to use, easy to maintain and once broken in they offer great consistency.
The barrel I'm using for this build is the ZCI 6.02mm Stainless Barrel, normally for a DMR I'd use something a bit wider, however the last ZCI barrel I bought was great and I've been using them in other builds. Not to mention they have a slightly wider hop window than most stock barrels and Madbull barrels.
The hop chambers I've got are the ZCI Prowin style, one is polymer and another is the RED CNC'd one. Again these are great and apply a nice pressure, with good range of adjustment, alongside good build quality.
In regards to buckings/nubs......this is pretty much personal preference, I have tons of barrel/hop combos set up in various rifles at the moment. The ones that work for "me" are:
ZCI 6.02mm barrel + ZCI Hop Chamber + maple leaf bucking with maple leaf omega nub.
ZCI 6.02mm barrel + ZCI Hop Chamber + G&G green bucking (flah hopped) with Prommy purple tensioner.
Tanio Koba Twist Barrel, this is in my custom Tippman M4, running standard nub and G&G Green bucking. considering the barrel is 200mm ish....it's great.For this build I've ordered various nubs/buckings and will update my experience with each.
Where to start:
First thing first, I needed to get the gun apart, which as I’m sure more of us know isn’t the most difficult of things to do on AR style guns.
Stage 1 – Removing the gearbox:
1 – Remove front body pin, slide the upper receiver forward* and pull the charging handle back and slightly up in order to unhook it from the top catch on the gearbox.
*If the gun is front wired, you’ll need to unclip these tabs in order to remove the upper as the cables will get caught.
2 – Remove the motor by undoing the 2 small screws on the base of the pistol grip. Once removed you will need to unhook the motor wires from the motor itself and then remove it entirely. Once removed you’ll need a long phillips screw driver to remove the screws which hold the pistol grip to the gearbox.
3 – Next remove your stock; once again you will need a long phillips screw driver to remove the retaining nut holding the stock onto the body/gearbox. Once you’ve undone this, you should be able to remove the stock tube.
4 – From here you should have a gun that looks like this.
5 – Next you will need to remove the gearbox from the lower receiver, which is a case of removing the rear body pin , small body pins and the mag release.
6 – Once the gearbox is removed from the lower, proceed to strip it, I won’t cover this part as there are loads of guides online. The only parts you’ll need are the trigger (I’m changing mine), trigger spring, spring guide, trigger board screw and safety cut off lever.
Stage 2 – Installing the Polarstar Jack:
1 - Put the Jack into the front half of the gearbox, where the original cylinder was, there are small dimples on the Polarstar Jack which will line up with the gearbox shell. Simple
2 - Next you will need to install the new trigger board, which is a simple case of pressing it GENTLY into place, once lined up, proceed to secure it using the original screw you kept earlier.
3 - From here you will need to connect the wire from the Polarstar Jack onto the trigger board and also attach the harness, it should look like this once done.
4 - Put the trigger back, check to make sure that it's all in place correctly and the spring is secured. * will vary gun to gun, trigger to trigger. At this stage you may also need to put the spring guide back in, in order for the stock screw to have something to anchor to. * again it varies on the AR variant you have.
5 - Depending on how the airline from your jack is lined up, you may have quite the bundle of fun trying to close everything up lol. On my first Jack it laid flat and was easier to work with. This one however pushes up against everything.
*A quick note at this stage, the Polarstar Jack is meant to be rear wired into the stock, however you "may" be able to front wire it or have the battery in the pistol grip and FCU in the stock tube. Our own Qlimax kindly sent me a custom made battery cable which should give me enough length the have the FCU in one place and the battery in another.
6 - Once you've worked out your cabling arrangements, reassemble everything again (part 1 in reverse), making sure not to pinch any of the cables as you do. The airline at this stage will be coming out the pistol grip.
7 - Make sure that you get the gearbox in and lined up nicely. This is achieved but making sure the gearbox is in a straight line as is the nozzle, you can check by reassembling the upper and making sure the nozzle enters the hop chamber straight and without the nozzle getting pushed all the way back. This part can take some time, it may involve tightning/losing either the stock screw or pistol grip screws, as both of these will affect how the gearbox sits in the receiver.
The Externals: **Ongoing**
So I've done the bulk of the build now, stuck all the externals on that I currently have, However I'm still waiting on a pistol grip, suppressor and charging handle. Externally I'm trying to set this up to be light and low profile. Hence the use of the Keymod rail (Brought from AK2M4, Here. Quality wise was just as good as the other ones you see from retailers at double the cost).
I added the red trigger and red selector....because it just looked cool. That and the fact they were kindly donated from Beesting Airsoft as I thank you for using them to purchase my HPA bits from. I will be revisiting my other P* build and using the APS trigger provided by AK2M4 as it's a nice dark grey and will suit the worn look. The trigger was fairly annoying to install, purely because the return spring in the G&G was stupidly strong* and a pain to hold in place. *This will differ by gun.
The fire selector was also a PITA to fit, as the small plate that sits on the inside of the gun, was too wide for existing hole, so I had to widen it a bit. Also to this day I'd never actually removed/installed a selector.......and to tell you the truth it was so stressful, I had to put everything down and walk away lol.
Basically you have to pop the dummy selector which is pressed/glued in. Then use a small screw driver to remove a small screw which holds the plate to the selector. FOR THE LOVE OF GOD DO THIS ON A WHITE PIECE OF PAPER, there's a tiny spring and even smaller ball bearing which will drop out, roll onto the floor and disappear forever leaving you to raid through your spares box and remove them from another receiver you had laying around.......you have been warned. There's a handy video on removing the selector here.
With the keymod rail I had to use some barrel washers (2) in order for everything to line up and be rock solid, I'm not going to explain installing it as it's pretty self explanatory
Luckily for me the G&G MOD0 outer barrel lined up perfectly with the 12" Keymod rail, which means a suppressor will sit flush with the rail. I'm hoping to get a better suppressor on there shortly. (Payday).
Once the charging handle turns up with the PSG-1 grip, I'll update with some more pictures.
Hop and Barrel Combo (inc nub, bucking and chamber): **ONGOING**
So I'm currently running the ZCI 6.02mm Stainless Steel Barrel and Polymer Prowin Hop Unit (Purchase from AK2M4) and for the moment I've just popped in a Maple leaf Bucking (75 degree) an Maples leaf Omega Nub (courtesy of Milspec Solutions, thanks again Ian).
I'm going to be experimenting with other barrels and buckings etc to see which for give the best results for "Me".
Here are some simple pointers though:
A benefit of a tight bore barrel is less air (PSI) is needed to get the correct FPS. When using a wider bore barrel (6.08 - 6.20) you will have to up the PSI to accomodate for the large volume of air required. As an example in my first P* when running a 6.02, my PSI was set to 75 ish and I got 346 FPS on a spare TK barrel of the same length but wider bore (6.08?) I had to run 85 PSI.
This basically means tighter barrel = Less PSI = Less Air Used = More shots per tank. and the opposite for wider barrels.
The current argument is that for longer range, wide bores are better when used with HPA and set up correctly. However for air efficiency and short to medium range, TBB's are good.
From my experience, it's all relative....at 150-200" any decent barrel, bucking, nub and chamber should perform alright. So from that perspective get a TBB a it's cheaper and more air efficient. However if you're going down the full DMR route and want that 250-300" range then get a decent wide bore. You'll have less shots per tank, but you'll be using a DMR on potentially higher FPS anyway, so 700 shots on a 13cl tank should be more than enough for semi auto.
It really depends on how YOU play and the ranges that YOU engage people in. You won't need a wide bore, flat hop and all the time required for a full DMR if you're running and gunning at 100". In that case a decent bucking and barrel would be more than enough.
In regards to flat hops, they are pretty easy, they work great and are worth the 15 minutes or so needed to do. Heres some buckings and nubs I've had success with:
- G&G Green and Purple Prommy pensioner or black for higher FPS
- Prommy purple bucking and tensioners
- The buckings AK2M4 sell work really well and due to the material they trim down well with a stanley blade, the prommy/G&G are "squidgy" and move alot without actually being cut lol
- Prommy blue sucks balls...end of.
- Madbulls are OK, but I noticed they didn't seal well once flat hopped.
- Falcon bucking, ripped at the mere idea of being flat hopped. Wouldn't use.
Another note about flat hops is they are only as good as the barrel you put them in, so it's worth going for a good barrel. Another reason I used the ZCI barrels is they have a slightly wider hop window than some other brands, which is perfect for flat hopping as it allows for more contact.
Setting Up The Polarstar Jack (FCU Settings): **TO BE UPDATED SHORTLY**
The finished project(s): **May also include my 1st Polarstar Jack**
Performance: **TO BE UPDATED SHORTLY**
Common Problems, Simple Fixes: **'ll be adding to this after tonight lol*
FAQ's: **TO BE UPDATED SHORTLY**, hopefully everyone can chip in and we can add to it
HOW IT LOOKS TODAY: "updated"
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thanks for that mate, i don't really want to have to go to impulse, as i ordered stuff from them before, they didn't supply and went belly up, kinda left a bad taste if you know what i mean
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In regards to the CYMA, you can get them cheap here http://www.taiwangun.com/en/electric-air-soft-guns/cm-032-black-style-cm?from=listing&campaign-id=19 plus they'll downgrade it for free if needed. Instead of the £35 zeroone charge
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Gotta love the jack's lol
Just picked up a G&G GC 30th anniversary as a base, then I intend on stripping it and starting over, as I've had suppliers send me parts to help with the build
I'll be making the thread as a beginners guide to HPA, calling out where i got parts, what parts I recommend, any issues I've had and general FAQ's I can cover since starting in HPA.
Hopefully will start on wednesday once the gun turns up. Aiming for a DMR build
- sp00n, Aengus and BBrotherwood
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I'd go with he above, well maintained AEG and heavy ammo, 50-60m is about right.
That said, my old VSR from ASPUK which was one of the first Darren worked on. At 500fps and .40's could accurately hit 90m in good weather.
HPA guns do seem to perform well, especially when you lat hop and go wide etc.
But as already mentioned, no way ever really validates or measures properly.
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There's not much aftermarket hop-up available for G36. Most seem to either buy a TM one and bodge it in (if necessary depending on make, dunno about SRC), or but the aluminium 'cnc pro win' one (which is only the hopup case, needs the arm/dial etc from an exisitng unit (which SRC bits may not fit)
AK2M4 might be able to get CNC prowin clone, I got 2 x M4 ones of him, they come with everything and even a spare bucking.
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if you're HPA'ing, then you'll need the line...Unless you mean the reg?
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Well have to exchange gamer tags and hit it up
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So I stopped following any Halo 5 news ages ago and was quote content to wait until I saw tv adverts to let me know it was coming out......then I heard dark rumours about no split screen....alas it's true.
So are there any halo fans on here and if so, has the lack of split screen affected anyone's deciding to pick the game up?
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This is the one pistol I have (so far) kept longer than 6 months. Surprisingly good bit of kit for a very low price. Also very easy to upgrade since it takes vsr barrels and buckings.
It's got to the point that I often take this to sites instead of my other more expensive rifles/pistols because of how reliable it is. Quality control isn't as great as a TM (particularly with the hop up) but the mags are much better/cheaper and don't need modifying to hold green gas. All the mods I've done have been made with the intention of getting it to be as quiet as possible and only now am I changing around the internals to squeeze even more performance out of it.
Definitely worth the £60 (UK price new)/£35 (Poland) price if you get the chance to buy one. Only issues I've had are with the mags jamming - but that happens with the TM mags as well.
FPS is quoted as 420, is that with the barrel extension? I'd look to remove the barrel extension and actually make a suppressor, if it's <350 without then I might grab one
MajorAirsoft.co.uk - UK AEG Parts Retailer
in Places to Buy
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Welcome to the forums.
Just had a look at the site, the only things that concern me are:
That being said, always happy to use new retailers
Most of my spend is now with 1 or 2 new retailers.
As you've only just started I can imagine it will take a while for the ball to get rolling, but best of luck.