Leaderboard

Just got this today, shooting .2's at 1.1j/330.4fps on a 7.4lipo 1400mAh

Sorry guys, no video, she's had me building a patio all day. ?

D'oh, yes, I missed that. One hail-Mary to try is drilling a very slight detent into the top of the hop chamber, directly above the feed tube. A few gentle-pressure turns with a 6mm drill bit put up the feed tube, just enough to create a little inverted dimple that BBs can seat into. This fixed, or seemed to fix, a similar issue on my MP5K, although as with anything airsoft it might just have been sorted by another round of disassembly-reassembly. (Detouring...) No worries, and you're right to ask because it's not obvious. What your gun is telling you is that the motor can draw enough current to over-spin, and will do so if the battery can supply it. By using a lower-C battery to fix that, you're now in a situation where the motor is trying to draw more current than the battery can provide. It's probably marginal, and many players are likely in the same situation without even realising it. However, you might find is that the battery heats up with use. It's not likely to become seriously toasty, but it'll be shortening its life to some extent. I mean, it's really not a huge deal in the grand scheme of airsoft lifetimes or costs, but I'd keep an eye on it for any signs of puffing up or alarming overheating. The tl;dr version is that ideally you want a battery that can comfortably supply more current than the motor can draw, and that you fix the double-shots another way, e.g. checking for a worn cut off lever, using an active-brake mosfet (although this then increases strain on the motor), or even by a mechanical bodge like limiting the trigger travel so that the trolley can disengage faster (I've used a blob of hot-melt glue between the trigger contacts to achieve this).

Hmm. It's cheap because it has a plastic gearbox, and is running at under half the power of a typical metal gearbox AEG, which likely means a light spring and a cheap motor. However, as you only need it to get the dimensions right then it should do the job. It even sounds like it has a modern rotary hop unit rather than the older dial style - both types of unit are interchangeable, and taking TM mags is a good sign. One consideration is that even the cheapest CYMAs come with a basic NiMh battery and charger, which will let you test the shooting performance. The Double Bell does not, so you'd have to spend extra on a battery and charger, which will push the price up by a surprising amount. It's a pity you're not in the UK or I'd have sent you a M4 from the spares box. That 42K LARP looks amazing, I'll look into that - thanks!

Many older posts will have had the pictures deleted as the forum limits the number of pictures members can post so, as mentioned above, try going to the newer posts. Alternatively there's quite a few painted guns in the gun picture thread

It's marketed as a speedy boi gun so I assume that's the target demographic.

Well, that's....a choice. Also - you don't need to start spamming new threads for the same pics you've already posted elsewhere.

A guy walked into his friend’s office He found his friend sitting at his desk, looking very depressed. "Hey, what’s up with you?," he asked. "Oh, its my wife," replied the man sadly. "She’s hired a new secretary for me." "Well, nothing wrong in that," he said, "Is she blonde or brunette?" "Neither. He’s bald.

So... I don't just collect pews, I collect webbing/fieldgear/ bergens etc. Had my alice for a while & got some Molle II in ACU/UCP last month so here's some pics of those. This week I also got my hands on a DPM chest rig with a DPM holster for my plce & a pattern 58 water bottle pouch to complete a set I've had since last year. I've been after a WE L85A2 GBBR for a short while but spotted this ICS Galil on Firesupport & figured I had a few L85's already but no Galil (until now). Straight out the box the front sight post had worked it's way loose from the sight body so once it's 'zeroed' I'll lock tight it in place, the gas tube is a bit wobby so will see if I can tighten that up too.

Just for laugh I once made Giraffe Camouflage ? on my G&G CM16...

Your delta is lose , front sight off with the gas tube and tighten it up making sure the gas tube can go back in , you might need barrel shims but most times they arnt needed. Your delta is lose , front sight off with the gas tube and tighten it up making sure the gas tube can go back in , you might need barrel shims but most times they arnt needed. Edit- how liverpool ish are you ? I'm south wirral ( ellesmere port )

That would be fine as the tape is temporary, I'd recommend the self adhesive stuff as it won't leave a sticky residue when removed. Something like this https://www.military1st.co.uk/28301b-mfh-fabric-self-adhesive-camo-tape-5cm-x-4-5m-od-green.html?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwydSzBhBOEiwAj0XN4F76tE9X9PqYJAF1BRYZY-iqKCJ2CljeG7VIk4CILjWGaylylL3iqRoCumAQAvD_BwE Personally I wouldn't paint the parts as the blue will start to show though when the painted parts get dinged and scratched through normal use

Just to get some clarification, could you put up a video of this "lobbing 2 or 3 out the barrel. Not actually firing per se, just kinda throwing them out." Is the gearbox cycling twice or are two shots coming out on one cycle? Yes, that could be problematic. I would have taken two off the pickup.

uh oh could be the problem

Welcome to the forum Nobody has a ukara licence, they don't exist. Now I've got that out of the way on to your question. By cover the blue do you mean temporarily while playing or permanently? The former is absolutely fine and can easily be done with a roll of sniper tape. If you mean permanently then IIRC it's technically illegal but if you can show you're using it for playing airsoft (at a proper site, not dicking about in a mate's garden) and don't do anything stupid with it you'll be fine

For the emperor! That's really cool. I'll send you the link as soon as the files are ready. At first I need to buy a M4. The CYMA are 100€, the Specna Arms 175€. So the choice is simple. I found a "Double Bell M4" for 55€. According to the description it has a V2 Gearbox and can take any TM compatible magazine. So it's also compatible to CYMA/TM? 55€ sound a lot better than 100€, especially considering I'm going to take it apart anyway Have you ever heard about "42k LARP"? That seems to be EXACTLY your interest. Maybe it's worth a trip to northern Germany.

The shooting parts of airsoft M4s are mostly compatible and interchangeable, being based on reverse engineering Tokyo Marui guns. All[*] M4s use the "V2" gearbox, which is as close to a standard as anything in airsoft, and the lower receiver, pistol grip, motor and hop units and barrels are also largely interchangeable. That's why it doesn't particularly matter what you use as a base for development. If the printed parts fit on any M4 lower, then they should fit on every[*] M4 lower. I suggested CYMA as they're cheap, tough, globally available, and a de facto standard. It's easy to get lost in airsoft makes and models, and get decision paralysis. However, as adjustable power is a (sensible) goal, as an end user I'd be more likely to choose something with a quick change spring system as a base. Since half the base gun is going to be discarded anyway, a Specna Arms SA-F03 FLEX (for example) would do fine. It's really down to local prices and availability where you are - I mention Specna Arms as those are cheap and readily available in the UK, but it really won't matter what you get as long as it's TM / CYMA compatible. This really is relevant to my interests, by the way, I play in Astra Militarum gear and have long been on the lookout for exactly what you're proposing to replace my current half-arsed solutions. [*] There are exceptions at the higher end, like Systema, but the bulk of M4s are TM / CYMA compatible.

Can't decide which I like better - competition sights or an RMR mount. Which do you guys prefer? P.S. Anyone have any good recommendations for a holster (repro safariland model etc.) that would fit an RMR mounted like this plus an X300?

Bugger knows ?

I still have the issue on a 7.4 20c. It's not overspin (unless the arl is catching on the gears, hmmm) I'm going to rebuild it shortly anyway, might need a new switch carrier if it's not disconnecting the semi properly.