Sitting Duck

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Sitting Duck last won the day on October 2 2017

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About Sitting Duck

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    AF-UK Addict

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  • Guns
    (i need serious help)
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    Camping with lots of ammo/mags
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    Tactical Warfare London/Surrey
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  1. Krytac & 13:1 Gearset

    It's all a learning curve m8 Most of us on here have a bit of wisdom from work/cars/diy etc.... But these poxy toy guns are not quite so straight forward as we are first lead to think Just like the nozzle less than 0.3mm - so what's the big deal, ergh it can matter plus slap replacement stuff together from ultra fine precision places knocked out from China (no wonder some upgrades badly assembled make matters much worse - done that plenty times) I'm no expert - far from it I have made so many balls ups & learnt from these mistakes (wisdom or wise after the event) live & learn, but in the end like most crap in life the more attention to detail, constantly checking everything you upgrade/replace all that will work wonders - digital caliper to measure shims & nozzles & tolerances Stuff like that, then the rest is just down to experience or learning from mistakes (I'm still learning with every box or gun almost, broke loads taking the pi$$ - yup we've all done it) You can drop a SHS or RA High Torque in there and hit say around 24rps on 7.4v but this shimming, bevel pinion, motor angle and all that crap is vital for smooth efficiency Stops extra strain, amps (drains battery much quicker), extra heat & sounds like cat being stung by wasps Can still sound a bit shrilly on some bevels/pinions but hopefully lower noise/stress/friction/amps etc.... You'll sort it I'm sure, trial & error & learning from experience etc.... Often we rip a box open to make a slight tweak here n there It doesn't always go perfectly to plan first time even with loads of care & attention Most bevel's have 10 teeth that mesh to spur gear So the ratio doesn't alter unless you use a bevel with more/less teeth (there are 8, 9 10 is in 98% of gear sets, 11 is rare & 12 is extremely rare) Ratio changes mostly by the spur/sector gear arrangement (usually in most AEG sets) Using a 9 tooth bevel on a 13:1 will make it a 15:1 set or 10% increase to 13.5:1 ratio Most ratio's are never what they say they are 18:1 are usually 18.65:1 16:1 are often 17.25:1 - what a con eh ??? (some are 16.5:1 but most are 17.25:1 and use same 18:1 sectors - just spur alters) 13:1 are about 13.65:1 12:1 are about 12.75:1 (aprox) you can count up all the friggin' teeth if you like or mark bevel with pencil (John Wick) then see how many times the bevel rotates to turn the sector one complete revolution then Multiply by 3 to arrive at gear ratio Your 13:1 set will have the bevel turning 4.5 times to one sector revolution but yeah your ratio would not have changed using Krytac bevel as it is 10 tooth (or should be) Just you have 4 latches/lugs compared to say 6 on SHS it might not quite catch asap and might have a slight chance of possible roll back (on rare occasions but at least should work/mesh with Krytac pinion blah blah blah) Ah - sod this, you will suss it out I'm sure
  2. Krytac & 13:1 Gearset

    I don't get out much but it gives me a chance to act the jack a$$ too OP still has a shimming issue with his SHS gears but they are OK gears as we know - they have been approved by 007 himself...
  3. Krytac & 13:1 Gearset

    Oddly enough you could have used 11.1v on a 20k motor.... When first batches of Krytac came over they used the 30k motor but UK spec was a m95/100 spring to get 330fps So 11.1v on 30k motor with light spring is going some So on this setup you would have got potentianl double fire on semi from large overspin Or on really bad case scenario risk of PME with high burst 35c/40c 11.1v mofo Krytac made the 20k motor for markets outside the US due to lower spring guns rather than the 400fps/higher spring guns etc..... (Well something like that according to Krytac's Allizard tech bloke) If you got a grey/gray US import or early Krytac with 30k then you should use 7.4v Hence they stuck on the 11.1v warning to limit new owners wrecking stuff on UK spec guns If you think about it it is same meat different gravy.... 20k to 30k is a 50% increase aprox same as 7.4v to 11.1v is again 50% or 2 cell to 3 cell increase So a 20k with 11.1v is about the same as 30k on 7.4v (roughly) (under load higher speed motors lose a bit more top rpm than torquey motors etc...) But the two examples were a rough similar output in real terms Krytac stuck the 11.1v warning to cover their ar$e basically should a 30k slip through the 3034 mosfet will handle 11.1v & 14.8v, it was just to do with rps on low spring & PME risk Even on a 30k, you could be ok-ish on 11.1v 15c or 20c but above 20c you are going some slap in a 35c+ and it will give you extra zest compared to 15c and get closer to PME risk coupled with general noob error of clearling jammed gun by going nutz on auto (yeah Krytac thought they best tame lower powered guns a little) ROUGHLY speaking UK spec guns 20rps no problem At about 25rps you will get more overspin and odd double firing (I'm talking on non AB guns btw) Above 25rps then things get a tad riskier as m100 = slower return piston Compared to m120 faster/powerful spring returning piston at full stroke blah x 3 I say ROUGHLY coz PDW MP5k's will have say m105/m110 to hit 330fps And long AK's will have m95 & hit 350fps - so it varies a little on gun/barrel/creep But roughly speaking your std Krytac with 20k was hitting say 14/15rps on 7.4v So by slapping in 11.1v you would have got 21/22.5rps Or Just put in a 30k motor on 7.4v and got about 20/21rps on 7.4v on the std 18:1 gear set Whoa - long War & Peace novel again...... Your amps are too high coz bevel is shimmed too low/tight to pinion (most likely) Use less shims on top of SHS bevel coz it is being pressed hard against the box.... First pic the bevel has too much shimming on top so it stays low pinion can't get into mesh nicely with full teeth contact and is ramming it up against box THIS is where all the strain/load/friction is coming from (or most of it) Massive increase in load = muchas ampos & grande scorchio (I mean yeah in rare examples the bevel is too high and pinion tip hits the AR Latch lugs on bevel) Hence the bevel to pinion height is rather critical foundation to how efficiently the box/gun runs What you could have done perhaps..... Used Krytac's 4 lug bevel gear with SHS sector & spur and you "might" have had more success (provided you didn't alter the original shimming on bevel) Then shimmed up the 13:1 spur/sector and checked they meshed OK with original bevel (should have, though there might have been a tiny roll back on 4 latch Vs 6 latch on SHS) At least that way, it was more likely not to develop overheating from bad shimming on new bevel (well in theory) Check your amps watch some shimming tutorials (you can watch "Rogers - shut up gears" but really way OTT tbh, but a good understanding of crap) I very much doubt as a ROUGH guide you need more than.... 0.2mm on 8mm bushings Or 0.35mm/0.4mm on 8mm bearings BUT EVERY BOX IS DIFFERENT !!!!! Some bushings can sit lower than most others - SHS "regular" bushings are fat bastids (but they do thinner black enhanced bushings too) Ceramic bearings are also fatter than regular 8mm bearings too So you can't just think "Oh that will do....." You have to check all this crap yourself coz each box is different etc..... Also a 6mm bushing v3 and just recently a split v2 ICS 7mm bushing was 0.6mm on bevel gear !!! So take what I said as a ROUGH GUIDE with a pinch/bag of salt Also different bevels have the teeth cut lower/higher compared to others.... see middle bevel in here in this extreme example.... So every time you change stuff, especially the bevel and also motor/pinion too (again some pinions/motor teeth are fatter/thinner or cut differently/flared/angle etc...) Every time you change stuff in that area, the shimming & motor height will need checking Well if you want your gun to run as smooth/cool/efficiently as possible (your hot running gun is also robbing you of final rps from the strain/load/heat btw) Best of luck - soz for epic waffle, there is a shorter 3 part trilogy film coming out later in year PS The KRYTAC air nozzle measures approximately 21.13mm in length, +/- 0.02mm (ICS M4 nozzles are 21mm, so in some builds the SHS 21.45mm is a smidge too long) If the std Krytac is not too loose just put that on or file the Red SHS one CAREFULLY SQUARE/STRAIGHT a smidge if you wish A delayer could help, but you might be a tiny bit tight for a 6mm bb to just slip past/feed Easiest thing, is to use original stuff if it works ok and not too loose/worn the slight leak is very very slight as most of air is being forced forwards So unless it is very loose or damaged use old nozzle perhaps Or file away the red paint at tip of SHS one straight and smooth perhaps a delay clip..... I often use these... BUT they do retract the tappet/nozzle about 0.5mm further so yup they can help with feeding.... BUT you have to be careful the back of tappet/nozzle doesn't bottom out on cylinder head (especially with SHS tappet plates, as they also retract a whisker further) If stuff bottoms out on cylinder head, or even on spur gears shaft or hits back of box... (bit odd putting a Lonex type tappet in G&G but is really to show stuff bend/breaks) Poxy gun crap - not quite as straight forward this teching crap as we all first thought You spend a LOT more time checking crap than we ever first imgagined This TM compatible stuff is often a bit of a myth..... Best of luck
  4. Krytac & 13:1 Gearset

    SHS nozzles are 21.45mm Compare or measure stock Krytac Always double check stuff you replace (101% TM compatible is a myth at times) Failing that go back to stock nozzle stuff getting warm/hot "could" be down to ab on Titan Or Bevel to pinion shimming out quite likely, get a RC Power meter and fire auto for 4 secs noting amps If you are much over 15amps on 13:1 SS with 20k motor then shimming is out imho (based on similar builds) How many teeth did you remove on m120 - perhaps 3 What juice are you running on the 20k Krytac - 11.1v ? (SHS HT is a 28k to 30k motor so will be going much faster that 20k) Sounds like Titan is noticing high amps and shutting down not expert on Titan - ask Hangtight but think it can shutdown on overheat/high amp draw Which I suspect is down to shimming tbh, could be a bit of both shimming and AB, but shimming is out anyway I'd say How fast is the gun cycling, 11.1v, 20k motor - say 25rps or 16.5rps on 7.4v Asking the daft question, not your mag is it ??? But lemme get this straight.... You took a Krytac with a 3034 already installed put in a 13:1 SS with m120 which should prevent any overspin Then ripped out the Krytac 3034 and put in a Titan to play on semi only ??? I mean it is totally up to you - your gun Titan will give you bells/whistles, pre-cocking etc... But as I say to each their own check ya amps/shimming
  5. Krytac Spring upgrade

    Nah...... Think you would have to have the gun cycling at say 100rps Vs Stalling mid cycle and ultra slowly crawling to slip of last tooth on release THEN you "might" have say 1mm max difference on spring compression/release Taking one tooth when Short Stroking as say a max of 15fps per tooth (maybe 12-13fps) a 1mm spring compression difference would equate to say 4 fps tops BUT TBH this is going some to get this variation of spring compression most likly just a bit of random luck/slack in drive chain or wear gives a fly's pubic hair variation Plus you get variation of 5 to 10 fps anyway between shot after shot minor imperfections in bb's exact weight, slight imperfect seal on bucking lips etc.... The biggest variation in fps is to do with a leak, say sealing on bucking lips (softer buckings blow on higher fps) But often if isn't bucking seal or torn/damaged bucking etc.... One of biggest areas is piston o-ring losing 30fps or more Or a bad leak/loose cylinder head etc.... Speed will not alter the fps - loads of other factors will lack of good compression and ultra great seals is where nearly all energy is lost No point putting in a m110 - m120 spring to compensate for $hit seals stuff just works harder and runs warmer/slower to make up for inefficiency elsewhere If you got a drop fps it will very very likely be down to three things.... Piston O-ring crap seal Torn/damaged bucking Extremely worn/faded spring (though you would have to stupidly leave it pre-cocked for a while in general) Stuff usually wears & not improves over time like fine wines Careful of grease you use for o-rings, many eat up rubber o-rings So a couple months later your o-ring will no longer seal well Other than that, a part failure or bad assembly will cause a drop in fps Or really daft thing to ensure your chrono-ing with 0.20's and not 0.25's (just make sure you are reading 300fps on 0.20's not 0.25's) If your APS varies 20fps that is a seal issue the o-ring could get warmer cycling faster from still but should after a few shots start to seal better the warmth will help the o-ring expand & seal better increasing fps BUT in reality that increase is down to $hit seal to begin with Do a load of compression tests and you get so-so compression often but after a few tests/pumps it improves a little Really what you want is great compression to begin with in the first place It is something not always easy to attain straight away You can get a good cylinder/piston/piston o-ring within a few attempts Or you can spend ages messing around with combos especially in piston head & o-ring Some piston heads are just complete crap and believe it or not some cheapo stock piston heads are very good if you set it up with good o-ring bought a number of piston heads and quite a few were pretty crap or worse than some stock (G&G is the exception, very rarely have I got really great seals on G&G piston heads) But some china guns, the piston heads are quite good if you just replace the o-ring (often china guns will over volume a smidge with crap o-ring seals to compensate) Getting good compression is vital, and using stuff like synthetic super lube is a must Other grease will quickly rob you of fps when o-ring gets perished by wrong grease
  6. Top rail for CM.520 ak47

    As dust cover is plastic best bet is say one of these types perhaps.... Should affix underneath by the two bolts/screws (might be OK or may need slightly longer screws but think it should be ok) You "might" need to cut/file off ny material on mount bracket as various AEG AK's vary and some models/makes may require a slight mod (just in case something catches on your cyma model) might have to hunt around for a UK seller than order from China Fleabay... but yeah something like that is perhaps your best bet with a plasticy gun/dust cover
  7. Wanted hi-cap electric box mag

    Manual version.... doesn't need charging won't go tits up like most electric box mags will feed quite a bit before needing to wind great hose mag feeds well.... on a DSG FireHawk tester.... up to you but I'd keep this in mind PS - ensure you have a strong mag catch I wouldn't fit it to cheap cyma M4 plastic mag catch
  8. Upgrades for CA M15A4

    +2 for deans
  9. Barrel length/extensions?

    buy a gun with a 230 to 300mm barrel should be a gun you can wield easily as an all rounder barrel length makes little difference for aeg's in the end Just get a medium length barrel M4, G36c, AK74 Than a great big or titchy mofo gun
  10. CM16 Fps downgrading

    Solder deans connectors is a must 7.4v 20c or 25c will equate to a good 8.4v or even 9.6v (once you upgraded to deans over small tamiya) motor if a grey with black cap 18k std G&G is crap if a blue or orange cap motor that is better 25k decent motor change motor to a shs high torque or RA oem high torque run a 7.4v will do you proud but gets fps down, correct AoE is a wise move motor can wait a while - not a real must tbh see how it goes but deans if you can solder is best upgrade £ for £
  11. CM16 Fps downgrading

    Correct the AoE, stick a 3mm or 4mm thick 20mm diameter rubber washer on there clean up head, washing up liquid to degrease check, reglue the std thin rubber if needed then superglue another washer on there should use sorbothane, but a washer will do at a push can do the silicone sealant mod for AoE too but needs 24 hrs to dry Remove the 5mm plastic spacer and use a shorter M3 bolt with penny washer But up to you
  12. CM16 Fps downgrading

    Have you already corrected AoE ? if not that should drop you about 10-15fps Did you fit a bearing spring guide or is there still a spacer inside the piston ? if so put back stock spring guide or remove piston spacer will drop 15 to 20fps Did you fit a new spring in there was it a irregular spring and fitted wrong way round ? the tighter coils should be at back of box/ spring guide if you have the tighter coils at front of piston head then that increases fps by 10 fps aprox There is 3 options or ideas to drop or increase fps a smidge no point buying a new spring that resets the guess work there are other slight tweaks to drop say 5 fps like spacing hop unit a fine whisker forward so the lips just blow a tiny tiny bit and you lose a tiny bit fps can't go nutz coz mag might not fit into hop feed tube but it can if done just right drop fps a smidge then as spring/seals get worn remove the thin card/rubber/o-ring (thus boosting fps backup again)
  13. Whats the difference between metal and plastic tappet plate?

    Ahhhh but I'll bet it was a very accurate, precise but shite tappet plate
  14. Whats the difference between metal and plastic tappet plate?

    Seen metal selector plate on a D-Boys PDW v2 box & think I've seen a metal selector on a micro switch v2 box But tappet plate ??? more weight - slower return/chamber more hammering at gearbox front (increase of cracking) Selector plates do break but tappet plates normally just wear at fin Only broke one M4 selector refitting back in receiver and heard/told selector on G36's are easy to break too if not careful If you have a Cyma v2 box they have a clear tappet plate which is quite hard/brittle (Cyma v3's have a white more flexible tappet) Guess these clear cyma v2 tappets can break if you are not careful (or if you tread on one) They have a cut out up or taper up front, due to internal strengthening - so a tiny mod req (nothing major) But think you have to go some to bust a tappet unless really unlucky me thinks
  15. [Advice] Tomtac gearbox parts (mainly gears)

    HelmetWorld - snigger Yup pretty sure that is correct TomTac barrels are ZCI TomTac gears are quite likely to be ZCI/Core Oem 13:1's nice gears but watch for bevel, if it has 8 AR latch lugs might have really thin 10 teeth on it 16:1 sets I've seen have lately seemed to be 6 AR latch lugs and a bit thicker 10 teeth Last 13:1 set I used I dropped the bevel and used an old SRC that had 5 latches (could also use a 5 latch G&G) "might" get a bit of "roll-back" using a 13:1 set with 4 AR latch lugs on it crappy techy stuff.... gear seats - the bevel turns 1/3 of the ratio (honest) a 18:1 set the bevel turns 6 or 6.25 times each full cycle so with 4 lugs you got 24-25 lugs for AR Latch to catch each complete cycle a 13:1 set will have 4.5 turns of bevel per complete cycle so you need 6 latches = 26 lugs per cycle or at a push 5 latches = 22.5 lugs per cycle on a 4 latch bevel you only get 18 lugs per cycle Now you might be fine, I mean lets face it with a DSG you get 2 shots per cycle So on a 6 latch with a 16:1 (5.75 turns of bevel) = 34.5 lugs but then 2 shots means each shot is a half cycle with 17.25 lugs Nahhh f*ck it, 4 latches is fine for 16:1 and 13:1 at a push if you have to Just make sure the bevel you eventually use meshes well with pinion etc.... If in doubt, if you think the bevel 8 tooth looks weak then don't chance it Check the AR Latch works effectively - often it doesn't hurt to file the AR latch (like they recommend on DSG builds....) Ah crap, should be fine on a 6 lug AR Latch if all up to scratch On a 4 lug AR Latch you might wanna check and slightly file/reduce the AR latch length a smidge That way is "should" latch ASAP than risk skipping on first attempt if ARL is a tad too long Ahhh sod it - pic says 1,000 words what Siegetek suggest checking..... Double check the spur & sector for any minor cracks (only had one sector so far a bit iffy on 16:1) Apart from all that you should be fine Both barrel & gears will be ok as ZCI's or gears as ZCI/CORE oem (in fact they look similar to Lonex gears - just they have Lonex stamped on the sector) Some people even try to pass the ZCI/Core gears off as 2nd gen SHS as they were a bit similar (Or the Super Shooter gears SHS offer) If the gears are sound they are a very close second to SHS, maybe even run smoother in some boxes - as long as your chosen bevel is decent