THE TM MWS thread

[Emergencychimps]

Got the magazine issue fixed. Used abbey gas all day and it ran like a champ, it must be the plastic nozzles. Also I found tilting the mags (as per the oli talks airsoft vid) had a huge affect, more than he said it would. 

 

My guess is that they have refined the length of the gas tube, but I'm not brave enough to take it apart. 

[C-Diddy]

Anyone have any recommendations for an Airborne-style charging handle?

 

The only one I regularly see available is the Angry Gun one.

[Wavey_Gravey]

C&C tac do one, the pins don’t walk out like the AG one.
 

Although the Angry gun BCM one is decent, there products are so hit and miss.

[C-Diddy]

9 hours ago, Wavey_Gravey said:

C&C tac do one, the pins don’t walk out like the AG one.
 

Although the Angry gun BCM one is decent, there products are so hit and miss.

Cheers mate. Think I've seen the C&C on JK Army's website.

 

With you on AG products, hence my hesitation. 

[Hecker]

Anyone had experience with the g&p aluminium trigger box shell. Does it drop easier and will it take original sears etc im after it after trying to remove the stock one which was a literal pain in the arce!

[John boy]

What is the heaviest bb you can effectively hop woth the sixg nub? I usually use .4s which shoot great but I wanted to know how heavy i can effectively shoot on dmr set up shooting at around 1.8 joules with the nub and standard bucking, cheers

Edited July 6, 2023 by John boy

[MILITATED]

On 10/06/2023 at 09:11, Koooo said:

Anyone have good condition spare complete lower for sale ? Also accept trigger box set. I believe my trigger sear is heavily damged even change different trigger can't reset well in the semi function

Try to remove any trace of lubrication, particularly silicone oil that may have found it's way in, from all components (particularly the trigger components and the sears). I had 2 trigger boxes with reset issues. I wiped down the oil from both and sprayed the components with WD-40, then wiped off any residue. Both trigger boxes worked as if they were brand new once reassembled. If this resolves it, then you can experiment with metal-on-metal lubes, until you find one that works well.

[JamesTheBear]

Morning chaps. Looking to get into the MES and nee to Gas. My first question would be buy new or used. Cheers  

MWS.. lol buy new or used? Thanks for advice cheers. 

[hunter511]

Sorry for the delayed reply.

 

Buyig new would be my reccomendation that way you get it stock not with various 'improvements' added

[C-Diddy]

For my next build, I'm going to be using a BavTac magic hop nub, rather than the SixG brass one. I've been thinking of adding a Laylax Strike hop arm too, but not sure it's necessary. 

 

Any arguments for or against?

[Madhouse]

Ok, I admit it, I'm MWS curious. I like the MK18 but just saw a YT vid saying they're a pain to work on because 'special tools' (yet no specifics) but mainly that there's red Loctite everywhere.

 

Is that actually the case though? While I'm not planning any major mods there'll be a time when I need to work on it and I don't fancy taking a blowtorch to one. The vid actually said get an M4 and then change the rail etc. All seems a bit odd to me.

[alxndrhll]

27 minutes ago, Madhouse said:

Ok, I admit it, I'm MWS curious. I like the MK18 but just saw a YT vid saying they're a pain to work on because 'special tools' (yet no specifics) but mainly that there's red Loctite everywhere.

 

Is that actually the case though? While I'm not planning any major mods there'll be a time when I need to work on it and I don't fancy taking a blowtorch to one. The vid actually said get an M4 and then change the rail etc. All seems a bit odd to me.

 

I feel like you've been caught out by some exaggerations, the only thing that's any harder to work on for the MK18 versus any other variant is the removal of the front rail due to how Marui opted to design the barrel nut/rail interfacing. TLDR you need a specific tool if you want to remove the rail with any degree of ease, BavTac make one, though there are others (it's an RS tool if memory serves but the name escapes me). You need to remove the rail and outer barrel to gain access to the hop unit, and given that swapping out the hop nub is the most commonly recommended change needing a specific tool to be able to do so is a bit of a bastard.

 

That aside they're identical to the other variants of the MWS, bar the MTR which I believe has an ambi safety. The MWS is extremely easy to work on, with the caveat that 'easy' is a subjective term and everything is hard until you know what you're doing. Though the process of learning what to do is fairly straight forward with the MWS. If it's the MK18 look you're after it'll generally cost you more to gather the bits to turn a different model into one than it would to just get the Marui one, at least assuming you want it to be relatively 'clone correct'.

[Madhouse]

13 minutes ago, alxndrhll said:

I feel like you've been caught out by some exaggerations

 

Me too, hence the questions. It just didn't stack up.

 

Bit of a sod about the barrel nut but it's good to know and therefore be prepared, than get to needing a tool and not having it to hand. Had already picked up on changing the nub and also the nozzle return spring.

[alxndrhll]

11 minutes ago, Madhouse said:

Had already picked up on changing the nub and also the nozzle return spring.

 

Granted I haven't had one for a while now but the nozzle return spring was more of a 'have a spare on hand for when it breaks' rather than immediately swap it out as preventative thing. I found swapping those out to be a prick of a job courtesy of holding the thing steady enough to get the pins out enough for the spring to come out. I opted for the age old solution of 'just throw more money at it to make it easier' and just swapped the whole nozzle set out... though at that point in time it seemed particularly hard to find just nozle springs in stock anywhere so it was a two birds one stone kinda thing.

Edited August 3, 2023 by alxndrhll

[Emergencychimps]

Having an issue with it now venting gas, getting more and more consistent. 

 

As it's happening to pretty much all the mags, I figure it's an issue with the rif. 

 

As per the pic, the bolt sticks in the position, if I then pull the trigger it vents. 

 

My theory is: 

 

1. It's bolt bounce, I've added 10ps to the stock tube but maybe the gas is too powerful and I need a weighted buffer. 

 

2. There is an issue with the nozzle and it's catching on the mag /lips and it's stopping it from going into battery as normal 

 

3. It's something else and I have no idea. 

 

I'd rather not buy parts on the basis of "it could be that" so does anyone know with confidence?

 

Truth of the matter is money is tight at the moment (recent baby!) and I've been considering selling this, as much as i Iove it. 

 

[Wavey_Gravey]

What does your nozzle loading arm look like?

 

Strip it all down, clean it, take some pics.

 

Also, congrats on the baby 🙂

Edited August 18, 2023 by Wavey_Gravey

[C-Diddy]

Like Wavey says, strip it all down, give it a good clean, and look for any obvious signs of wear on the BCG.

 

When you put it back together, make it as near stock as possible and see what the score is.

 

And congratulations, of course

[SSPKali]

Went to fit the Bavtac spring and this happened!

Guess I will run it as-is until the nozzle or nozzle spring fail then chop it up to get the useable parts out! Have some 1.5mm lefthand drill bits coming so will try and back out the remaining stub but not too worried. Need a few spare screws like that - seem to be M2 screws with button head.

 

Having replaced the the selector (LH lever fell off - was AG one and threads shallow / sloppy) and hammer roller (WiiTech polymer one cracked, replaced with TM steel one) I could do with out any more dramas 🤣 

[Emergencychimps]

On 18/08/2023 at 11:37, Wavey_Gravey said:

What does your nozzle loading arm look like?

 

Strip it all down, clean it, take some pics.

 

Also, congrats on the baby 🙂

 

On 18/08/2023 at 20:43, C-Diddy said:

Like Wavey says, strip it all down, give it a good clean, and look for any obvious signs of wear on the BCG.

 

When you put it back together, make it as near stock as possible and see what the score is.

 

And congratulations, of course

 

Thanks both, have done so and there was a very slight bend on the nozzle loading arm, applied some head and bent it back to shape and it's working like a charm now. 

 

I think I caused it with a BB double feed during a reload

[C-Diddy]

I'm going to be installing the BavTac Zet plate, and, as I've never removed the trigger box before, I'm after advice as it seems like a nause.

 

I've seen the 'hammer the trigger' and the 'use a flat head and rock it out' methods. 

 

Any other preferred, preferably successful and non-damaging ways I should consider?

[Wavey_Gravey]

I used this trick to get mine out:

 

 

Just FYI it doesn’t need to come out fully to get the zet plate in or out.

[C-Diddy]

Nice one Wavey. And I'd clocked you only need to partially remove to replace the zet plate. Relieved, too!

[uncleanlatent]

Alrighty so a bit of an update on my MWS DMR build m. Started off as a banged up second hand CQBR, and is now a URGI-ish bb slinger. 
I’ve made the following modifications:

 

eagle6 upgraded nozzle return spring

Poseidon ice pick high flow valve

mapleleaf MR bucking 60

SixG super Nub

14.5 inch 6.03 Laylax inner barrel

zparts mk16 DD steel outer barrel

zparts 13inch geissele hand guard

magpul MOE+ pistol grip

magpul CTR stock

VFC BCM grip

Olight Odin

 

It’s doing around 300-310 fps on .40 BBs on green gas. Happy with the results so far and don’t think I could squeeze and more out of it ! 
Anyone else have success with DMR builds ?

 

[SSPKali]

I have had the chance to try out the Angry Gun 110% and 130% buffer springs for the MWS.

 

I am running a stock TM bolt with Hao steel bolt end and AG alu buffer for reference.

 

The 110% worked the same as a stock / the G&P it replaced. Will keep this one for winter or use with the DP lightweight bolt.

 

The stronger one certainly speeds up the bolt return and rate of fire. Not had a chance to check shots-per-gas-fill but will probably be a little less than the ~120 I was getting before but if you are running this sort of bolt/buffer it isn’t about maximum efficiency 😂
 

UPDATE: I have since run a shot test and in 25degC heat, 0.28g and ASG Ultrair.

 

I got 65 shots from 12g gas in a v3 TM mag (no mods) So just shy of 2 mags worth.

 

The v2 mag with trimmed fill tube gave 105 shots from 26g gas and dropped from 290fps down to 272fps over the course of 3 mags (one shot every second, holding the mag to maintain temp)

Edited September 8, 2023 by SSPKali
Moar data!

[C-Diddy]

Looking for some advice, or even words of wisdom/caution, regarding inner barrels. 

 

I'm pretty happy with the stock TM 250mm barrel, but I'm curious to see how, say a Prommy or PDI barrel performs. 

 

My next build has a 14.5" outer barrel, so I guess I could go up to 370mm. I know the length doesn't really make too much difference to range/accuracy on carbine/rifle barrels, but I think I'm right in saying they can increase FPS slightly? Mine's been close to site limits from stock on .3s, so again, curious to hear from those in the know as I'm not planning on fitting an NPAS.

 

Bore size is also something I'd like to hear about. The TM barrel is 6.08 I think. Any comments regarding the performance on tighter bores?