THE TM MWS thread

[CoCost]

12 hours ago, Horse84 said:

Did getting that kit completely solve the wobble? I need new cross bolts anyway because the c&c ones I have are now almost worn out with the constant tampering. So unbelievably frustrating. Almost 70 quid for that kit isn’t cheap but if they work I’ll pay it. Had seen them myself but was doubtful whether they were compatible with the replica rail.

 

 I was in the same boat, but much to my surprise they did indeed removed ALL the wobble. The cross-bolts are a lot thicker than the one that comes with the clone rails. Although I initially didn't think it was going to work, they did fit very snuggly into the gap on the barrel nut. Would also recommend using some kind of lubricant to prevent any sheering as it is a pretty tight fit. 

 

 Anyone had any experiences [good or bad] buying direct from ruten.com.tw? Found a TR-25 Accupoint scope [clone] from modelworks615, but hesitant to sink that much money as never used them or that platform before 😕Still, a ton cheaper than a real one!

[Reapur]

1 hour ago, CoCost said:

 

 I was in the same boat, but much to my surprise they did indeed removed ALL the wobble. The cross-bolts are a lot thicker than the one that comes with the clone rails. Although I initially didn't think it was going to work, they did fit very snuggly into the gap on the barrel nut. Would also recommend using some kind of lubricant to prevent any sheering as it is a pretty tight fit. 

 

 Anyone had any experiences [good or bad] buying direct from ruten.com.tw? Found a TR-25 Accupoint scope [clone] from modelworks615, but hesitant to sink that much money as never used them or that platform before 😕Still, a ton cheaper than a real one!

As far as optics go, never waste your time with repro optics.  Get a holosun or vortex optic.  Once you do it you'll wonder why you didn't do it sooner, especially when you're talking about low power variables...

 

The vortex strike eagle is excellent for the money and has a lifetime warranty.  It's about €300 or so.

 

 

 

[LVOA-D]

Got a care package in the mail from Poland today so I am finally able to "finish" my Strike Industries build . Was only missing the takedown pins, buffer tube and adjustable scope mount, really happy with how the build turned out!

[LVOA-D]

Sorry for hijacking this thread with my photobombs but I got my Madbull RIS II FSP rail cerakoted and picked it up today, looks absolutely stunning if I say so myself! It's for my 2nd MWS build, Block II FSP replica. Unfortunately I still do not have my FDE stock yet, last part I am missing for the build. Anyways, here are some pictures of my rail getting Cerakoted, was a black rail to start with but forgot to take pictures of it

[Davegolf]

Nice, which Cerakote'ers are you using?

[Sinistersnipe]

Does anyone know of base plates for STANAG MWS mags to help protect them from dropping and to add a bit of a ledge to help drawing them? The only thing I'm aware of that people have been using are the classic rubber magpuls, but I'm looking for a bit more of a modern take.

 

Something like this would be awesome: https://tangodown.com/mag-cap-protective-usgi-magazine-floor-plate-3-pack/.  Any 3D printer wizards out there looking to make a buck? 

[LVOA-D]

18 hours ago, Davegolf said:

Nice, which Cerakote'ers are you using?

Considering I am based in The Netherlands I had it done by Camogun. Must say, even though for the majority of this forum it's not really useful information, but they are great. Was my first time Cerakoting and my first experience with them and they've been sound. Mailed back and forth to decide on a color, decided to send the rail in via the post and a few days later
I was bombarded with these great pictures. Picked it up a few days after and had a nice chat with one of the owners who explained all the options they had for Cerakoting so all in all, I can really recommend them!

[Sy87]

Hi guys,

 

I am new to this forum. I have a question regarding g & g adjustable trigger box. I recently purchased the trigger box but ran into issues. No matter what I do, I run into sticky trigger problem. After firing, and the bolt cycles, my trigger won’t reset properly. It seems when I release the trigger after firing, the adjustable trigger sear is still caught on the hammer. I have to manually push my trigger bar forward to disengage it, and I can squeeze the trigger again. I am wondering if anyone else ran into this problem and was able to solve it?

 

Thank you 

[The_Mixed_One]

Finally! My first mws and wow it feels so good and solid. Im thinking about making a mk4 federal build 😎 

I will probaly leave the inside stock for now, but want to able to adjust the fps? Should i look for a NPAS and upgrade the nozzle spring or should i go with the angry gun mpa nozzle?

[Horse84]

On 06/05/2020 at 17:09, Sy87 said:

Hi guys,

 

I am new to this forum. I have a question regarding g & g adjustable trigger box. I recently purchased the trigger box but ran into issues. No matter what I do, I run into sticky trigger problem. After firing, and the bolt cycles, my trigger won’t reset properly. It seems when I release the trigger after firing, the adjustable trigger sear is still caught on the hammer. I have to manually push my trigger bar forward to disengage it, and I can squeeze the trigger again. I am wondering if anyone else ran into this problem and was able to solve it?

 

Thank you 

I have the exact same issue with my g&p trigger box so I’ll be interested to see any replies. Extremely disappointed with the product considering the exorbitant price I paid for it. I’ve tried lubing and I’ve uninstalled and reinstalled in numerous times to zero affect. I’ve just gone back to the stock trigger and I don’t think I’ll be going back.

[Shizbazki]

On 04/05/2020 at 07:51, Davegolf said:

Glad you went Prommy, for I while there I thought you were going to go Crazy.

Some like them but in testing I did not.

 

Before you get super excited and throw all your packaging away; roll the barrel on a flat surface and check it's true/straight.

 

Also inspect the crown/barrel exit for any little burrs.

 

95% of the time Prommy are bang on but sometimes there's the odd lemon

 

 

So last night i received my Prometheus 6.03mm tightbore 370mm inner barrel, with my Laylax hop up arm in hand i decided to have a go at install them in the MTR16.

Managed to get the receivers apart, BCG out, flash hider, front rail and faux gas block, EASY.

Then came a hour of headache (is it really airsoft modding if there is ever no headache? 🤔) I spent the best part of an hour trying to remove the first castle nut with an armourers wrench and heat gun. Only once the receiver itself was too hot to handle with bare hands would the first castle nut move, they it was a simple pull of the next piece AND then ANOTHER FREAKING CASTLE, BIGGER THAN THE LAST!!! I had to heat the receiver up so much i was worried shit would start melting, how much thread glue did TM use, a whole bottle 🥵

 

Second Boss castle nut removed, and some wiggling for the outer barrel and finally i could access the hop.

 

I decide to measure the width of the Laylax one and compare it to stock, both were 6.75mm wide perfect. New barrel in (checked for QC and it was spot on), new hop arm in and reassemble which thankfully didn't take too long.

 

After all that the result, FPS wise a bit disappointing, didn't get the FPS improvement i was hoping for.

STOCK on .20g BBs she was firing around 1 to 1.1 joules or about 330 to 335FPS

Upgraded barrel and Hop Arm i was getting 1.2 joules or around 355 to 360FPS

 

I was hoping at least to hit 380 to 400FPS and then use the NPAS to dial it up further.

So some questions:

Was i expecting too much going from a 250mm to a 370mm inner barrel?

Should that extra 120mm length have made a bigger difference or is it what you would expect?

 

My only reason is that when i owned a KWA Vector, stock it was shooting 380FPS, but screwing on the suppressor (which acted as a 150mm inner barrel extension) pushed the FPS to over 450FPS

 

As for range and accuracy i cant tell as i have a tiny garden, but i hope i didn't lose too much of the fairy dust in the hop, i was very careful.

My NPAS hopefully will arrive soon so i am hoping i can volume up the MTR 16 to output at least 420 to 430 FPS.

[jsmithski]

There are many factors here. Do you have a good seal on the nozzle2bucking? What green gas are you using? I’m pushing over 2.6J using 380mm barrel, autobot bucking and KWA rocket valve in the nozzle.

[adas1223]

stock 250mm 340fps ...laylax 6.01 373mm 370fps... duster gas saw NO change and maintained 240fps. everything stock but the barrel.

 

modifying the stock rocket valve got 450 on propane and 350 on duster (601 barrel) 

 

go figure.

 

[Sy87]

11 hours ago, Horse84 said:

I have the exact same issue with my g&p trigger box so I’ll be interested to see any replies. Extremely disappointed with the product considering the exorbitant price I paid for it. I’ve tried lubing and I’ve uninstalled and reinstalled in numerous times to zero affect. I’ve just gone back to the stock trigger and I don’t think I’ll be going back.

I actually got it to work today. Basically, I loosened the hammer tension screw as well as set the trigger travel adjustment screw to neutral. I applied decent amount of Teflon grease on the hammer hook and the trigger sear and just played with the trigger sear adjustment screw until the trigger sear just lightly engages with the hammer. At this  point previously the trigger would get caught and won’t reset, unless I push the trigger bar forward. But with the Teflon grease applied, the friction was gone and the trigger will reset even after hammer is recocked. I also lengthened and increased the spring tension on the sear in back that catches the hammer. It seems that the stronger spring allows the sear to catch the hammer faster.  

[Horse84]

1 hour ago, Sy87 said:

I actually got it to work today. Basically, I loosened the hammer tension screw as well as set the trigger travel adjustment screw to neutral. I applied decent amount of Teflon grease on the hammer hook and the trigger sear and just played with the trigger sear adjustment screw until the trigger sear just lightly engages with the hammer. At this  point previously the trigger would get caught and won’t reset, unless I push the trigger bar forward. But with the Teflon grease applied, the friction was gone and the trigger will reset even after hammer is recocked. I also lengthened and increased the spring tension on the sear in back that catches the hammer. It seems that the stronger spring allows the sear to catch the hammer faster.  

Yea that will work for a couple of mags but it will revert back to its bad habits at least that’s what mine did. Realistically for that price you shouldn’t be having to do that much work to get it to work for what is, in reality, a negligible improvement in performance and functionality over the stock trigger box.

[Sy87]

10 hours ago, Horse84 said:

Yea that will work for a couple of mags but it will revert back to its bad habits at least that’s what mine did. Realistically for that price you shouldn’t be having to do that much work to get it to work for what is, in reality, a negligible improvement in performance and functionality over the stock trigger box.

Ya I agree , it’s too much tinkering. I wish it was less adjustability and more reliability. I am wondering if the recoil messed up the setting for you? I ended up blue thread locking the bottom screw, will have to see how long that last me .

 

On a side note, I ended up replacing my trigger sear spring with a weaker one lol... I found a spare disconnector spring on my tm glock, and used that instead. It seems to make the trigger sear not clamp as hard on the hammer as the original spring but still enough to stop hammer from resetting during bolt cycle. 

Edited May 8, 2020 by Sy87

[Guest Airsoft J2]

I've had a search but haven't seen an answer to this issue:

 

My fire selector get stuck between auto and semi and won't turn back to semi, let alone to safe, even when cocked.

So far, when this has happened I've half removed the fire selector and have moved it around before re-engaging it at safe (when cocked). Has anyone else had any issues with their fire selector getting stuck?

 

My MWS is all stock I haven't done anything with it (disassembly etc) so it's a bit perplexing!

[SSPKali]

32 minutes ago, Sy87 said:

Ya I agree , it’s too much tinkering. I wish it was less adjustability and more reliability. I am wondering if the recoil messed up the setting for you? I ended up blue thread locking the bottom screw, will have to see how long that last me .

 

On a side note, I ended up replacing my trigger sear spring with a weaker one lol... I found a spare disconnector spring on my tm glock, and used that instead. It seems to make the trigger sear not clamp as hard on the hammer as the original spring but still enough to stop hammer from resetting during bolt cycle. 

Wow glad I haven't forked out £200+ for that trigger set. I like tinkering but not fixing other peoples bad designs or executions!

 

Is there anything worth doing to the stock trigger unit to make it a little crisper on the break point and reset? Would disassembly and polishing help?

[Sy87]

15 hours ago, adas1223 said:

stock 250mm 340fps ...laylax 6.01 373mm 370fps... duster gas saw NO change and maintained 240fps. everything stock but the barrel.

 

modifying the stock rocket valve got 450 on propane and 350 on duster (601 barrel) 

 

go figure.

 

I 

 

15 hours ago, adas1223 said:

stock 250mm 340fps ...laylax 6.01 373mm 370fps... duster gas saw NO change and maintained 240fps. everything stock but the barrel.

 

modifying the stock rocket valve got 450 on propane and 350 on duster (601 barrel) 

 

go figure.

 

My mws stock was shooting around 360, after Prometheus barrel and modify bucking, bolt nozzle assembly upgrade, I am shooting around 440-450 on propane?

32 minutes ago, SSPKali said:

Wow glad I haven't forked out £200+ for that trigger set. I like tinkering but not fixing other peoples bad designs or executions!

 

Is there anything worth doing to the stock trigger unit to make it a little crisper on the break point and reset? Would disassembly and polishing help?

Ya it’s expensive  I got mine for 185 usd. I was disappointed when it didn’t work out of the box. But now that I got it working, I have gotten the trigger pull to a point where there is no slack. The wall is right at the beginning. Hope it last though ...

[Seven]

I've finally decided to pull the proverbial trigger and get me one of these bad boys, CQBR version. Already ordering parts!

 

Just ordered myself a licensed EMG/SAI QD Rail with JailBrake, pictured below.
Will be picking up a Magpul MOE stock too.

 

Just need to find myself a nice skeletonised pistol grip and foregrip and i'll be all set I think... not including optic of course.

 

Kinda excited!

 

[adas1223]

On 08/05/2020 at 15:09, Sy87 said:

I 

 

My mws stock was shooting around 360, after Prometheus barrel and modify bucking, bolt nozzle assembly upgrade, I am shooting around 440-450 on propane?

Ya it’s expensive  I got mine for 185 usd. I was disappointed when it didn’t work out of the box. But now that I got it working, I have gotten the trigger pull to a point where there is no slack. The wall is right at the beginning. Hope it last though ...

yeah, the temp i was testing in was around 50degree f. not sure in Celsius but it was cooler. i would imagine warmer temps, the mws does 350-360 stock. but just changing barrel inner diam. doessnt change too much...

 

theoretically, keeping the stock magic TM barrel, and just going straight for a nozzle set is a better first option. you may also have better groupings with a wider bore needing less cleaning.

[Sy87]

What buckings do you guys use mostly? I currently have the modify tan bucking with a H nub. I am wondering if firefly bucking is any good, it is quite expensive.

[marine]

3 hours ago, Sy87 said:

What buckings do you guys use mostly? I currently have the modify tan bucking with a H nub. I am wondering if firefly bucking is any good, it is quite expensive.

 

I have tested some buckings and modify tan is the best , If you want  test other... similar results with Mrhop maple leaf but her install it´s difficult

[Smiller]

Hey fellow MWS warriors, I’m in need of some assistance please:

 

my stock trigger isn’t resetting itself anymore and i have to push it forward slightly to enable it to reset, this doesn’t happen on every shot but not far off.

i’ve recently upgraded to the AG lightweight bolt with nozzle ( I’ve changed the NPAS To my RA tech and buffer piston to the standard TM) I’ve also upgrade the buffer to the g&p and used 2x of the steel weights. 

 

I’ve checked the trigger box and there doesn’t seem to be any broken bb’s etc and given it a squirt of oil. 

 

Could the issue be with the upgraded parts causing the trigger not to reset or is it something else please?

 

Looking forward to the help 

 

thanks 

[Wild Weasel]

3 minutes ago, Smiller said:

Hey fellow MWS warriors, I’m in need of some assistance please:

 

my stock trigger isn’t resetting itself anymore and i have to push it forward slightly to enable it to reset, this doesn’t happen on every shot but not far off.

i’ve recently upgraded to the AG lightweight bolt with nozzle ( I’ve changed the NPAS To my RA tech and buffer piston to the standard TM) I’ve also upgrade the buffer to the g&p and used 2x of the steel weights. 

 

I’ve checked the trigger box and there doesn’t seem to be any broken bb’s etc and given it a squirt of oil. 

 

Could the issue be with the upgraded parts causing the trigger not to reset or is it something else please?

 

Looking forward to the help 

 

thanks 

I believe the general consensus is it is caused by dirty "non dry lube" causing parts to stick.  If you have a look at wolf's guide to cleaning in the first couple of pages you'll see he uses wurth dry lube and carburettor cleaner to dissolve all the crap and flush out through the trigger, allow it to dry and re lube, I've been using this method from day one and haven't had a problem - give that a go before riving out the box perhaps?