THE TM MWS thread

[RobHedley]

15 hours ago, UKCYukarin said:

First skirmish report with the MWS -  a mixed bag

The upsides

Using .32s, range and accuracy was more than acceptable, reckon it could be improved with a good clean of the bucking and prehaps a new IB. But it can wait.

Semi and full auto superb.

The downsides...

Spring in the charging handle broke, small part snapped off, so the handle is loose and can bounce about when firing.

The Docter sight on my ACOG broke after one mag!!!! Irritating really. Also realised that aiming down the acog is a PITA.

Even in the fucking heat the mags couldn't always reliably spit out all the rounds, DEFO need to green gas mod now!!! (thought I could wait till the temp starts dropping)

Angrygun l119a2 gets loose, fucking stupid design using two grub screws to secure it to a round barrel nut, I'll have to find some DIY mod to secure it.

 

Looking for suggestions on good short range sights (i.e Holographics or similar) that don't lose zero or fall apart from the recoil. (No real steel please, i'm a student for fecks sake!!!)

Going to perform the Green gas mod on my magazines soon, any tips and tricks appreciated.

 

Most of my problems were not the gun in itself, Im still impressed by Tokyo Marui, as usual!

Glad to hear after all your problems you still love the MWS. I was looking at getting an ACOG with the doctor sight on it.... I take it you wouldn’t recommend an Airsoft spec one for the MWS? Sight wise I have the Element Holosight (https://www.combatsouth.co.uk/collections/scopes-accessories/products/element-aim-o-551-red-green-dot-black) for £40. Not had a problem with it so far.

 

Regarding tips for the green gas mod, the hardest part is getting the spring back in. I used a wooden kebab Skewer (basically a long thin wooden stick) and after sliding the first part of the spring back into the follower track, I slid the Skewer down the middle of the spring and into the spring track. Then push the spring down the Skewer back in to the mag. Then use your thumb and hold it in place, leaving about 5 turns sticking out. Remove the stick and put the spring guide onto the end. Line up the base plate to get the square base of the spring guide in its slot and press down. Secure with the screws and you are done 👍. 

 

I also used the Wooden Skewer to measure down inside the tube down to the top of the valve to make sure I wasn’t going to catch it. I cut my silver tube 1mm above the top of the valve. I put the Skewer down to the top of the valve and makes with a pen so I knew where the top of the valve started and marked it on the outside. Add 1mm up from that mark and cut it with a pipe cutter.

 

hope that helps 

[Guest Yukarin]

9 hours ago, RobHedley said:

Glad to hear after all your problems you still love the MWS. I was looking at getting an ACOG with the doctor sight on it.... I take it you wouldn’t recommend an Airsoft spec one for the MWS? Sight wise I have the Element Holosight (https://www.combatsouth.co.uk/collections/scopes-accessories/products/element-aim-o-551-red-green-dot-black) for £40. Not had a problem with it so far.

 

Regarding tips for the green gas mod, the hardest part is getting the spring back in. I used a wooden kebab Skewer (basically a long thin wooden stick) and after sliding the first part of the spring back into the follower track, I slid the Skewer down the middle of the spring and into the spring track. Then push the spring down the Skewer back in to the mag. Then use your thumb and hold it in place, leaving about 5 turns sticking out. Remove the stick and put the spring guide onto the end. Line up the base plate to get the square base of the spring guide in its slot and press down. Secure with the screws and you are done 👍. 

 

I also used the Wooden Skewer to measure down inside the tube down to the top of the valve to make sure I wasn’t going to catch it. I cut my silver tube 1mm above the top of the valve. I put the Skewer down to the top of the valve and makes with a pen so I knew where the top of the valve started and marked it on the outside. Add 1mm up from that mark and cut it with a pipe cutter.

 

hope that helps 

Cannot completely confirm (only played once) but the ACOG scope itself didn't seem to lose zero (I never actually properly zero'd it on the game day as the BBs where hitting close enough to where I was aiming), so it could just be a really shitty docter sight they add on top, theres a few docter sights available on the market that I could potentially swap to, but I found aiming down the ACOG (given its short eye relief) was an absolute pain in the ass.

Does your Element Holographic hold zero then? I have their PEQ-15 box and impressed with the quality given the price point.

Thanks for your explanation on the green gas mod, nice and detailed.

[RobHedley]

7 hours ago, UKCYukarin said:

Does your Element Holographic hold zero then? 

 

Yes, so far. It was on an AEG before the MWS and has only been skirmished 3 times on the MWS but so far I haven’t had to tweak it.

[hunter511]

problem with ACM stuff is how "variable" it can be. I know of people who've run 1000s of rounds with  ACM eotechs on gbbr's and recoils with no issues and others who've had them fail on the first trigger pull.

The vortex Sparc is more expensive than ACM red dots.... but will survive stuff like this...... 

https://www.recoilweb.com/vortex-sparc-ii-the-dot-that-would-not-die-67267.html

 

[_FIL_]

We all know were this is going...

[_FIL_]

Took the MTR16 for a game this Sunday, and man did I miss it...

That feeling(recoil ) you get after you land that perfect shot right were you want it is just priceless.

Out of the box she is already very accurate, cant wait for the inner barrel and sigx brass nub to arrive(as well as tan bucking)

[Wo1f]

On 31/05/2019 at 12:29, itsme said:

Sorry for asking again but could anybod reply to these questions?

 

Also propane users (@Wo1f?) : do you use the coleman 465gram bottles? they seem pretty expensive in belgium.

they are about 16 euro. but a nuprol 2.0 weighs in at 300gram for 10 euro, am i missing something?

 

In the US the same bottles sell for 3.5 dollar so is it even cheaper in europe to get these with the adapter?

 

 

I use rothmans ones I think. There the long type that plumbers use, not the camping ones

[khryzs]

So far I have my stock M4A1 MWS, 11 mags with the green gas conversion completed.

 

I also have a Modify Tan bucking, an RA-Tech NPAS and a 370mm 6.05 barrel ready to go in.

 

Just waiting for my SixG super nub then I can drop those in and be done. 

 

 

[Fissure]

Okey so also got home all my Strike Industries stuff now, will post a little more detailed build post later on. 

Got around to fiddling about with the rail and buffer tube, had a bit of a hard time understanding before why wolf cut his nut and why this worked etc.

 

Anyways the dimensions on the barrel nut and buffer tube threads on the upper and lower are true to RS specs except for the TPI (thread pitch)

This is bad news (not terrible) since I am pretty sure the re-thread won't turn out as good as a fresh bore or if making a larger thread. But since this is just airsoft, hopefully the threads will be able to handle the stress anyways.

 

Measured the threads and got these results

Upper front thread (barrel nut thread) 1-1/4" - 20 TPI (RS is 1-1/4" - 18 TPI)

Lower rear thread (buffer tube) 1-3/16" -18 TPI (RS is 1-3/16" - 16 TPI)

 

Not sure why they chose these thread pitches? Metric maybe, or just to keep from being able to swap between RS and Airsoft parts?

[Fissure]

Some pics on the way, lower is pretty much done now, was somewhat of a hassle to fit the selector switch. Used the pin from an iron airsoft MWS ambi selector and grinded it to the same specs as the RS selector switch pin. Worked out great, some minor filing on the trigger guard was required to align the holes for the screws, nothing major though and not visible when mounted on the lower.

Now its "just" the rethreading on the buffer tube thread left

 

Some parts on the parts, the modifications on the selector pin and then the lower. 

 

Finally my MWS DMR build (semi locked high FPS), fielded for the first time this weekend and it sure did give the bolty snipers a run for their money xD

 

[LVOA-D]

Absolutely wonderful @Fissure!! Looking great! Congrats on going through with it. Just got a note in the mail that I can pick up my John Wick Kit tomorrow...after paying 211 euro's in taxes and import fees...but atleast it has finally been released!

[Sitting Duck]

26 minutes ago, LVOA-D said:

Absolutely wonderful @Fissure!! Looking great! Congrats on going through with it. Just got a note in the mail that I can pick up my John Wick Kit tomorrow...after paying 211 euro's in taxes and import fees...but atleast it has finally been released!

 

That is a lot of money when really you only need this.....

 

 

PS I love the 18yr warning about this not a f**king toy

 

[LVOA-D]

Anyone interested in an assortment of spare parts for the MWS?

 

Everything that is in the picture are original MWS parts + the G&P Advanced Buffer. Just checking if there is any interest, if so hit me up with a PM!

 

*UPDATE* Sorry, not the classifieds, but now that I am busy here, got a few bits off a TM G17 and TM G18c as well, for anyone that is interested.

*UPDATE 2* Just noticed the lower is busted...screwhole for the inner frame is broken...still fits fine and screws in tight but still...

[Fissure]

So some more updated today, got the Maple Leaf Crazy Jet 370mm inner barrel today and some other smaller things, also a new charging handle, though when having so much RS stuff lately the Angry Gun quality really feels shitty

 

Anyways, had to drill up the inner hole on the dummy silencer as the inner barrel is sticking out from the muzzle about 5 mm. Nothing major though and went nicely. 

 

Then I got around to the hop and rubber, will be trying a Firefly rubber for the VSR10, and as I had not received my supernub yet I took the extended hop arm I had lying in one of my boxes (one of those that do not need the little rubber tube between the arm and the hop rubber) and went through my dremel bits and found a grind bit that was the exact same diameter as the hop rubber. Rounded of the hop arm and should work the same as the super nub now.

Also airtightened it and removed all wobble with some thread sealing tape.

 

Then it was time to thread the upper barrel nut thread, not much to say really. Was easy work since only the TPI had to altered somewhat.

Torqued it down to the specs from the rail manufacturer and using one of the barrel shims I got a perfect alignment for the gas tube as well.

 

That's it for now, as they for some reason split my die and tap order I don't have the tap and die for the muzzle and buffer tube yet 😕

 

Now the feel of the upper with the steel barrel and dummy suppressor sure is nice and got some real heft to it

 

Pics in described order ! 

 

@LVOA-D : Keep us updated on the John W build please ?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[LVOA-D]

Well it happened, it has arrived!

Bit dusty but all in one piece. Now to get everything re-threaded so I can assemble it and be done with it, perhaps I can finally fire a bb out if it...

 

[LVOA-D]

So far everything has been a drop in fit! Actually surprised, even the SI dust cover fits perfectly. Only "strange" bit is that the forward assist stick out more than it probably should.

 

 

[Guest]

Looking good 👍🏻

[Groszq]

Hi!

Could you tell me what upgrades are worth doing in TM MWS? I already changed hop up bucking and inner barrel. I am from Poland, so power is not an issue as long as I am beneath 2.81J.

[Davegolf]

2.8j!!!

 

[hunter511]

MTR specific question, how in god's name do you get the barrel nut off? Seriously even with the correct tool Ive had stop before I mangle it.....

On a related note what the hell are the wierd not quite Torx screws on the MTR as well?

 

[Guest]

35 minutes ago, hunter511 said:

MTR specific question, how in god's name do you get the barrel nut off? Seriously even with the correct tool Ive had stop before I mangle it.....

On a related note what the hell are the wierd not quite Torx screws on the MTR as well?

 

 

They are all thread locked on.

 

I believe the screws are Bristol head

[hunter511]

There's threadlock..... then there's the barrel nut on that solidly I suspect its been welded. Anyone know how cerakote handles heat? Thinking about getting a blowtorch on it......

 

[LVOA-D]

@hunter511 I am not in the position to give advice about uppers and barrel nuts, so I won't. What I do want to say, good luck and don't be like me! 😀

[Guest]

1 minute ago, hunter511 said:

There's threadlock..... then there's the barrel nut on that solidly I suspect its been welded. Anyone know how cerakote handles heat? Thinking about getting a blowtorch on it......

 

 

You can’t see the barrel nut when the rail is on, I put the upper receiver in a block and used a drift to get it off.

[hunter511]

My intention is to replace the rail with something a bit sleeker anyway to be honest. I'm hoping to get the MTR specific barrel and ris mount assembly off un-brutalised but if necessary I'm willing to move into the realms of "extreme prejudice".