DIY

[sp00n]

just got some PIR's ..... think i am gunns mount one in my claymore ... and the others

[UIVenger]

just got some PIR's ..... think i am gunns mount one in my claymore ... and the others

 

where'd you get the PIRs from mate?

[sp00n]

 

where'd you get the PIRs from mate?

 

ebay was the cheapest place i found

(eBay item number:131281620991)

[sp00n]

quick way to find your ohshiboom ... reflective tape (i did this when i first got my original ohshiboom ... just thought i would put a pic up with it on my new one)

 

 

(edit should mention that its not very reflective in normal light, but shine a torch at it )

[Ian_Gere]

quick way to find your ohshiboom ... reflective tape (i did this when i first got my original ohshiboom ... just thought i would put a pic up with it on my new one)

 

 

(edit should mention that its not very reflective in normal light, but shine a torch at it )

OMGonads, we'll have to think of a home/away strip if we ever play the same venue...

 

 

Edit: oops, i didn't notice the tape on the top of yours - i'm planning to add a key finder fob to mine too.

[Ian_Gere]

So the polycarbonate lenses I ordered to replace the double glazed glass ones in my PBF respirator turned up. They are 51x5mm and arrived cut perfectly with no surface defects, so I'm very pleased (and at £14.95 posted for the pair I have to say that had i not been, i'd have been distinctly miffed). My hat off to whomever it was who spotted the ebay store which sells the stuff and wrote about it in their status update: I'm sorry but I can't remember. Anyhoo, here is the place. The thickness I chose was just to make them a perfect swap for the originals; I'm certain that even 2mm of this Lexan stylee PC is BB proof.

The mask itself is much easier to breath through with filters fitted than a GP-7, or an S10 for that matter, but I decided that since I'm not actually going to be wearing it in a war zone, and even if i were the filters would have run out of effectiveness by the time I got there since they've been unsealed for a few months, that I may as well cut the filter part out leaving just the frame. I did this because the baboon cheeks deflate when you inhale without filters fitted internally. I also sealed the edges of the cut filters with liquid latex to prevent charcoal powder, fibres, and whatever else is in there getting down me throat.

So now it's good to go for a S.T.A.L.K.E.R. game, woohoo!

[Cheeky vimto]

OMGonads, we'll have to think of a home/away strip if we ever play the same venue...

 

 

Edit: oops, i didn't notice the tape on the top of yours - i'm planning to add a key finder fob to mine too.

SNAP!

 

 

 

I took this picture when I first bought it over a year ago. The reflective tape gets pretty messed up throwing it against hard surfaces. Mines red and white reflective with my name on it too

 

 

I also use the same molle pouch!

[Samurai]

I'm experimenting with a scope and red dot on top combo. For that to work I need a low mount for the scope and that means that the G3's front sight is in the field of view. So I designed and printed this to solve the problem:

[Ian_Gere]

So my ESS Turbofan knock offs turned up - I'm quite impressed by the build quality in the main, but the rubbery frame under and above the lenses has holes in it for ventilation which, imo, could allow a BB through due to the material's flexibility. I only noticed it when I peeled the dust filter foam off, so I'm doubly glad that I did...

 

 

So I've stitched it with some brass wire and it now seems solid enough:

I'm not sure what to do about the area above the eyes, because it seems like a good idea to leave the foam dust filter in place, to make the fan pull air only from inside the frames, rather than sucking it easily down from outside. But under the foam the frame is the same as below, so maybe I ought to put some wire over the top of the foam...

[Ian_Gere]

Spent this afternoon messing about with Svetlana... ooh er, missus! My SVD. I put a Maple Leaf 60° hop rubber in her t'other day but hadn't had a chance to test her with the BB King white 0.4g and Welts white 0.43g BB's - the result = instant jams. After a lot of faffing about I've discovered that it isn't the hop rubber, or me, it's that neither of these BB's are round enough for PDI 6.01mm TBB's. TBH I'd heard this already about the BB Kings and also tested it for myself, but I was horrified when i got my digital callipers on the Welts - variations of 0.02mm in some of the worst ones & overall variations of between 5.94mm and 5.99mm across the board.

 

So it's back to the PDI W-Hold rubber and Blaster Devils 0.3g BB's for me.

 

Shit.

[Chock]

The cheap ass springer SKS I ordered turned up today. As expected, it is really cheap and nasty and I doubt it'd last a day if you used it, but since it is my intention only to use the shell of the thing as the basis for a project, I'm not worried about that at all, in fact haven't even bothered trying to load the thing, let alone fire it. The shell is actually a fairly decent lookalike of an SKS, not totally accurate, but pretty close, which was all I was really after. So the plan is to get an M14 gearbox and barrel into the thing, then get a genuine SKS ten round mag, or possibly one of the thirty round ones, then modify that to be the magazine for the BBs, since the magazine on it at the moment is a dummy, with the thing actually being fed from above via a hopper system which is probably culled from a cheapo shotgun or some such. I doubt there would ever be enough demand for a decent airsoft SKS or type 56, although I know a few people have wished it was so, thus sometimes you have to go the DIY route. I reckon this one might take a bit of work, but I think it'll be fun to have a semi-auto AEG SKS with a scope on it as a DMR, so I'm giving it a go.

[Pyro]

Oh I so need the time and money to get into gun modding.

 

Only DIY thing I've done other than my torch, was fake flash bangs.

 

Basically fuse wire in an already spend flash bangs. You can light it and lob it in a room and as people panic to get out. Step in and shoot.

 

[Don't know if that counts as "How to make your own or modify pyrotechnics". If this is an issue, please advise and I will edit this post accordingly. Additionaly, is some one would could clarify what is ment by 'pytrotechnics' in this instance - physical explosive, any combustable material, Any 'throwable' accessory... etc]

Pyro

[Guest PT247]

If you like your pyros Pyro, check out the T.A.G. grenades!

[Chock]

 

[Don't know if that counts as "How to make your own or modify pyrotechnics". If this is an issue, please advise and I will edit this post accordingly. Additionaly, is some one would could clarify what is ment by 'pytrotechnics' in this instance - physical explosive, any combustable material, Any 'throwable' accessory... etc]

Pyro

 

I think as far as airsoft is concerned, since the main reason for highlighting them in airsoft skirmishes would be for insurance and safety purposes, you can regard 'pyrotechnic' to mean 'literally anything which causes smoke, fire, flash or bang effects of any magnitude, and/or which projects missiles as a result of that chemical reaction'.

 

Note the 'of any magnitude' bit. Personally, I really like your fake flashbang idea, I'm all for inventiveness in skirmishing, but not everyone sees it that way. For example, I have on occasion placed spare torches in darkened CQB areas as decoys, then used that to ambush people, and been accused of doing stuff which is not allowed, but as far as I'm concerned, if there is no specific mention of that in either the site's rules, or the briefing, and what I do does not cause a danger, then saying that it is cheating is merely sour grapes for having been caught out by such a ruse de guerre. But, sour grapes aside, since even a simple lit fuse could set fire to stuff, or cause a panic in places where that's not a good thing, I could well understand your fake frag ruse being frowned upon, at least in terms of safety. So if I were you I'd have a quiet word with the marshalls to see if it was acceptable. The reason I mention this is that, for example at Trojan's Mill site in Stockport, they ban any pyro use on stairwells, since it would be an explosion in a very confined space and could cause ear damage, or cause people to fall down what are very hard concrete stairs, this might might reasonably make you think that since your fake pyro doesn't explode, it'd be okay, however, it might still cause the panic which leads to someone falling or being trampled on a darkened stairwell, in which case I would regard your fake pyro as a real one in terms of allowable gameplay, since it can still cause some of the effects a genuine pyro might.

[Pyro]

I actually got Kudos from a martial at UKAP bunker for clearing a room of 4 people without a single bang with it. On the flip side, I've been caught out by someone tossing a dead BFG into a room. But yea, common sense prevales, any site that has a ban on pyros in whole or in part will extend to my babies. Martials are law, and always worth checking with them. I do need to do a side by side burn test and publish the report for fire risk on them really.

 

"'literally anything which causes smoke, fire, flash or bang effects of any magnitude" Flashes? What about strobe torches. Find it hard to believe that they would be ruled as a pyro.

 

TAG's look funnnnnnn... Although I prefer my guns smaller for mobility. Except the automatic grenade launcher I have planned... That's going to be interesting. 36BBs per shot. 36 shots per minute. 20 shot drum

With regards to sour grapes - skirmishing is a battle simulator. Site rules are there for safety and some for fairness. But out side of that, anything goes. If someone gets out-witted and doesn't like it, tough. A group I was with got hammered by a spawn camper, someone complained and the martial just told us to suck it up and check our corners better.

 

Pyro

[Ian_Gere]

What are you using to replace the dead pyro fuses, Pyro?

[Pyro]

Would rather not go into details on how they're made Ian. Trade secrets and all

 

Pyro

[Ian_Gere]

Following Chock's suggestion, I quieted my Сплав harness:

 

I couldn't use the RC fuel line Chock suggested because it didn't have a wide enough bore. This stuff is 4mm internal diameter, which means it's a doddle to push round the bend of the 3.55mm steel. Got it from here. Only time will tell if the weight will make it wear through in 5mins, but so far it seems fine.

[Adam3088]

Just sorted out my (partially) homemade eotech lens protector, removed the mesh from a Chinese made guard, got some cheapo 1mm lexan polycarb sheet which I cut to rough shape with scissors and then finished off with a dremmel. Fits perfectly and I can actually see through it quite well now.

Also remade my sling adapter for my F2000, main part of the strap was taken from a laptop bag.

[NH Shooter]

Just had a spare half hour... And a spare but leaking mag... Should be good with a bit of paint and hydro dip.

[Russe11]

As my Owen gun progresses (being made for me by a guy in the WW2 airsoft forums), I started thinking about a case. It occurs to me that with a removable stock and barrel, it would be possible to store the 3 parts in something more box shaped. This would allow it to double as a seat when camping.

This was on amazon when I searched for a wooden box:
Internal Dimension: 36cm(W) x 15.5cm(D) x 15.5cm(H)
I thought if I added 2 dividers, I would have 3 vertical sections for the front, main receiver and stock. Unfortunately when I take measurements from the solidworks owen gun CAD model, I get approximately 15cm height from the top of the magwell to bottom of the pistol grip. This may be a bit tight if I want padding etc.
The second box option is a plain pine toy box, which will take a lot more work, but that could be fun.

I was just looking at the pic of the pine box. The hinges don't look substantial enough to hold well if the lid gets twisted when using it as a seat. I then thought that I could add an interior lip to the lid by glueing a couple of strips of plywood inside the pine. This lead to another thought that if the plywood was not just a strip it could form a stand for the gun when the box lid was open. The lid would need to lock into an open position and I would have to work out how to ensure a good center of gravity, but potentially a good idea.

[NH Shooter]

Why not just make the box from scratch? It's a simple enough design you want :-)

[Russe11]

It just saves a lot of time and effort to buy the box. All the accurate joins needed to make a box compares unfavourably to the cost of buying a simple wooden box appox' the right size.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00C0XSZU2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3UQGTGH30PTKA

[Bottledtorment]

So I'm wanting to give my G36 a weathered paintjob would anyone be able to advise me how to do this and not make it look crap

[Chock]

Depends what you mean by 'weathered'. Kind of tricky with a G36, since they tend to be used a lot by police and such, so they're not in the field for long and will look fairly pristine because of that. Having said that, the ones which do take a real battering, are the Kampfschwimmer ones (German Navy special forces divers). Those guys are trained to approach targets underwater, and come out of the sea firing their G36s and P8s, so their weapons certainly get exposed to a bit of wear and tear. The polymer furniture on them will of course not show much signs of wear, but what does show signs of wear is the three-tone camo which many of their G36s sport, so you could paint three tone camo and then buff it off the edges with a dremel or some such, however, there's something you could do which might be more fun that that. Take a look at this picture:

 

http://i.imgur.com/NreBfD4.jpg

 

You can see on that pic that the paint/bluing on the edges of the metal parts is very worn and showing the bare metal, i.e. the cocking handle, the RIS mount (particularly at the front), the flash hider, the fire selector, the body pins etc. Now, the problem you have, is that a lot of that stuff on an airsoft G36, is not metal, but ABS plastic, but you can still make it look like worn metal by using dry-brushing. If you've never done that, here's what that technique looks like:

 

 

That is my plastic UHC AKS74U, which I have dry-brushed so it looks like worn metal. So, how do we do that?

 

Right, what you want is some of this, which any decent craft or hobby shop will sell:

 

http://modelshop.co.uk/Shop/Item/Humbrol-metalcote-polished-aluminium/ITM3289

 

So, then what you do is, get a very soft artist's paintbrush (don't use a sh*t cheap one), shake the paint tin and then stir it with a match or cocktail stick so that the metal flakes are suspended in the paint, then dip the brush in the paint, then take a piece of kitchen roll and clean off the paint from the bristles until there is barely any left coming off the brush onto the paper towel. When it is like that, you are ready to use it - Lightly flick the brush over the edges and raised parts of your gun where you want it to look like paint or bluing has worn off. The almost dry brush should only deposit small amounts of paint on raised edges, and it will look like worn metal if you do it right. Don't overdo it, subtlety is the key here, and remember that much of the real G36 is not metal, so you might need to put masking tape on the bits you don't want the paint to go on (crappy 'pound shops' will sell masking tape). If you need to mask around intricate parts, Blu-Tack is good for that, because you can mold it around things.

 

Now, leave it to dry for a couple of hours, then you need some aerosol matt varnish (you can get that from most 'pound shops' too). Spray that very lightly (and I mean VERY lightly) over your bry-brushed bits, and it will prevent it from rubbing off. Be careful though, the wet varnish will tend to wet the metal paint and spread it out, which is not what you want, so if you don't work slowly with the varnish, it will ruin the effect, so, the idea is to do ONE very light quick pass with the varnish, then let that dry, then do another light quick pass, and so on. You need to work slow with the varnish, and let each pass dry before you go again, or it will ruin the effect. Patience is the key word here.