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What do you want your gun to do? how did you do it?


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Hi,

 

So in my opinion the Third most important piece of equipment you'll take to a skirmish is your RIF.

 

I want my rifles to be accurate and have great range, i dont really care much about RoF or fps.

 

In my experience the only mods that seemed to increase the range and groupings of my rifles were ones done to the hop rubber and nub. However, i have never upgraded a spring or put in a tight bore barrel.

 

So my question to you is how did you achieve what you wanted from your rifle, which mods had the most benefit? and which ones had little to no benefit?, what type of ammo did you use and why?

 

I'll go first;

 

I want my guns to be accurate at 30m, this in my experience is the average effective engagement distance at my site. My DMR can hit things further out but in all honesty i generally wont engage someone at longer ranges because your chances of hitting are quite low. Although lost of people claim to be able to hit a man sized target at 60m (which is about the maximum engagement range for an airsoft rifle)

 

All of my guns have TM hop rubbers in them (i started using these because TM guns are renowned for range and accuracy). I Use H-nub, which has done the trick in terms of hop stability with the added benefit of the BBs not hooking.

 

I can only test my changes at 15m (which is the length of my garden) so generally i have wait until skirmish day for longer range testing which is painful.

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Hi,

 

So in my opinion the single most important piece of equipment you'll take to a skirmish are your BOOTS!!!

Fixed

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Hi,

 

So in my opinion the single most important piece of equipment you'll take to a skirmish is your EYE PROTECTION.

actually fixed now!

 

I've had limited mileage from messing with internals, tightbore barrel and a decent quality hop-up are more than enough for me!

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D'oh :P

 

But yeah all ive done to my rifles are new hop and barrel.

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why not aim for 60m, hell lola could hit centre mass at 85m 6 times out of 10. and the average gun at my local site can hit 50m.

30m I'd call p*** poor performance.

and regarding improvements; entire hop unit (I've found systema work really well), v-hop rubber (home made, and damn hard sorry), 6.03mm barrel (prommy/systema), good BB's (never had a problem blaster devils)

planning to go from 0.25's too 0.36's soon as I get Lola back.

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With most aeg's it's a balancing act, as normally you can either have range or rof.

 

A standard gun is a compromise between the 2, my standard (internally anyway) g&g cm16, has excellent range and a reasonable rof, I could raise the rof with a higher voltage battery though. if i went all range my rof/trigger response would be very low/slow, and i find for my rof mp5k setup, the range isnt bad, its not as good as my raider though.

 

I personally find I want a height rof in cqb, where range isn't essential, but for woodland I want more range.

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why not aim for 60m, hell lola could hit centre mass at 85m 6 times out of 10. and the average gun at my local site can hit 50m.

30m I'd call p*** poor performance.

85m?! What is Lola? An air rifle?

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85m?! What is Lola? An air rifle?

Lets just say the amount of money that I've sunk on her, I could buy 2 of your L85's.

Type in Lola on the search, you should recognise her.

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You've spent upwards of £1800 on her?

 

Whut?

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Over a period of 3 years, I could've easily afford a fully Tack'd PTW with lots of goodies.

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The search is bringing up nothing but this thread.

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The search is bringing up nothing but this thread.

Check out my created topics, but weird that the search didn't show her.

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why not aim for 60m, hell lola could hit centre mass at 85m 6 times out of 10. and the average gun at my local site can hit 50m.

30m I'd call p*** poor performance.

and regarding improvements; entire hop unit (I've found systema work really well), v-hop rubber (home made, and damn hard sorry), 6.03mm barrel (prommy/systema), good BB's (never had a problem blaster devils)

planning to go from 0.25's too 0.36's soon as I get Lola back.

To be honest if I spent that amount on an airsoft rifle I'd expect it to be very, very accurate. Yes you can hit things at 50m with an average gun, but never with any consistancy. And that's what I am talking about when I say effective range.

 

So £1800 superguns aside I,d say 30 - 40m is the optimal engagement distance for my site, obviously if you play in woodland the ranges will be longer.

 

The pressing question is how important is the tightbore in terms of grouping improvements? If have heard many conflicting opinions.

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Essay inbound chaps:

I think the accuracy is almost entirely down to the hop. If the hop is stable and well set, with no chance of the BBs gradually pushing it off, accuracy will be far more consistent.

 

But I think that the hop is augmented by the barrel.

For me, the primary focus of buying a tightbore is for the fps boost.

As someone who runs 30 shot mags, I need my rifle to respond as quickly as possible, be as accurate as possible and be as long range as possible. Efficiency is key because if I need to use more than 5 shots to take someone out of the game, I've used a significant proportion of my magazine.

I could have just left it alone and learnt to ignore targets that were through small gaps, at certain angles, or too far away. But, I thought I'd learn a bit of gun smithery and try to overcome them with upgrades. I reckon I've done a pretty good job. My aim was to match the range of the furthest reaching AEGs I'd come up against, but beat them on accuracy for closer encounters.

So what did I do?

From general observation, as well as just logical reasoning, one thing I now always do, is fit a 6.01mm barrel. Why?

Because with a good air seal around the hop and the gearbox, you can see an fps boost of up to 40 in some rifles. This allows you to downgrade the spring by one entire grade, and you gain back what you lose from the spring with the tightbore you fitted.

This grants you roughly the same fps you had, but more range as a result of more effective compression. You also get better shot consistency because less air escapes around the BB, and better groupings because the shots are aligned with the hop more centrally. As well as the additional bonus of putting less wear on your gearbox because you're utilising a weaker spring.

In addition to the tightbore, whack a stronger motor in there, for that added boost in trigger response. Use LiPos or LiFes to up it even more. Then coupled with your tighter barrel and weaker spring, you'll get ridiculously good trigger response.

 

Good trigger response by association comes with a high rate of fire, and because of there being less wear on the parts, you'll also see longer life from your internal components and further still, because of the reduced stress on the parts, a more efficient use of your battery.

 

I can make 1450mah LiPos, or 1000mah LiFes last me an entire day, 1450 LiPos have lasted me 48+ hours of skirmishing before and still had enough juice to plink in the garden through the week whilst tweaking the gun and opening it up for maintenance. I barely use half a pot of BBs per trip. In my most recent video I take out 8 targets with only 1 mag, and at least 2 of them are about 50m away.

Any tweaks you add after that are probably more of a placebo effect than anything else, but I've still experimented with various piston heads, cylinder heads, gears, hop rubbers etc.

Long story short? Know your rifle. Use it enough to understand what certain parts will do to it. Weigh up the pros and cons, fit parts, test them, don't take someone's word that a certain part is an "upgrade" some guns work like garbage with parts that make others excel.

It's all about using a process of elimination to find the best combination of parts. To do it properly you'll likely end up with a box full of 5 or 6 different versions of the same thing.

It's expensive, but it's worth it in the end in my opinion.

That said, my L85's gearbox is by far the easiest gearbox to work on there is. If I had an M4 I'd have probably just left it as it is out of the box, because I hate opening them up that much.

Another pointer; in my experience BBs are at their most stable when travelling at between 330 and 290 fps, with about 310 being the sweet spot.
So you always want to use the ammo that gets you the closest to that fps.

If you have a sniper firing at 500fps, .46s will bring it down to around 330, if you're firing in the region of 350, .25s will bring you to the sweet spot. If you're using a semi auto DMR, you want to be using .30s to .40s.

Just figure it out.

If BBs travel faster than 330 or so fps, the air resistance that they meet with head on, can wobble them about, that's why snipers at 500fps with .20s suck arse and have terrible accuracy.

Heavy ammo means slower deceleration, meaning they maintain their fps for longer, meaning if the fps is high enough to begin with (say, 330 to 290fps) the weight of the BB will effectively drag it a longer distance.

In my last video I was using .25s, as I always do and they were being launched from my L85 at around 295fps, but I routinely took people out at 50m with less than 5 shots. In some instances it only took one.

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one thing no one i believe anyone has mentioned is BB's ......... you NEED good quality bb's not only for mag reliability, but you don't wanna knacker up a epic barrel with crappy bb's ... or have one with a defect that can scratch/split your hop! (this may/may not have happened, but i don't wanna take the risk in my guns!)

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When i first got my src g36c 2 half years ago i memba being really impressed at how she performed and tmat this time i mainly played cqb at ucap bunker and virus truly good sites so range wasn't a major facter but one think that really bugged me was rof i was poor wolf amouriea told me stick 8.4 and be fine so i got a few of them but not having alot of spare money as me any my other half must got a flat so just being able to play twice a month was fine after saving up i got a g36 k handguard and silencer with the idea to make it look like a mp5 sd5 with the silencer in the handguard after bit of filing and cutting it fitted nicly then replaced stock with the g36 k

then i really had to change battery or something to do rof so i convinced. Myself a 7.4 lipo be way forward when it arrived plug straight away pop pop pop SMILE nice cycle of fire maybe about 16/18 bbs a second more then enough for me nothen to mental but enough to put some pain down range

then my cousin got in to airsoft and got himself a src m16 and we both went to our first woodland game and the hop was pretty worn out by a year gaming so a trip to combat south tm hop rubber went in and m16 with a spring change as was shooting from 330fps up to 400 haha

two weeks later first game with gave it chance to bed in bed still just wasn't the same range or accuracy but i left it alone for 8 months

then it got to that time need to change hmmm what to get

saw a madbull shark red twin pack needing a new one for my sniper to thought yeah be good comes with h nub worth a bash few days later unhappy other half for ordering yet more parts for my sniper project hehhe had a bash at doing myself started taking apart the hop rubber was split and fitted right not lying her upside down no idea how or why it was even working but hay never mind madbull fitted and not need to h hub as src come with one already

took to first game and again half a day bedding it after lunch next game.brifing had few cheeky shoots at a tree 60m away about 30m and dipping down had fiddle with hop wheel up and up and boom 60m tree easy target and ever sence been using madbull red and hitting 60m targets easy with just hop rubber change

and.never felt like iv needed to change a thing

bit yes BB do make a difference i us excel 0.2 blaster if i cant get any tryed proballs but grouping is not the same

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And the receivers. :D

 

its depressing.i will hopefully be getting a rail machined soon fingers crossed

Yeah, the L129A1 is a monolithic rail platform (MRP), you can get 'close' but not quite there.

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