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I have a TM VSR10-G spec with Upgrades installed EdGi 430mm bull barrel. Laylax barrel spacers. 90� zero pull trigger. Laylax piston. Laylax cylinder and cylinder head. Laylax spring guide. Action army hop up unit. Maple leaf 60� autobot bucking. Maple leaf omega nub. I baught this 2nd hand 4 years ago used it 3 times then stopped playing, I have recintly decided to get back into airsoft as I have free time again and I installed a new Action Army Vsr-10 M150 Spring but im only getting 260 fps so I thourght somthing may be broke. I took it all apart re-lubes it all with silocone spray. when I got to my buckshot it looked ok no visable tears but old. here are photos anyone got any suggestions on what I need to do?

Hi all, I'm having some issues upgrading a Cyma M4, with the sound coming from the gearbox being quite poor. I'll give quite an in depth description of how the issue started, as it wasn't doing this from the start. I bought a Cyma CM603 for a low price in December with the intention to learn to upgrade and tinker with AEGs. It arrived firing 450fps on a 0.2g bb, so I needed to make some changes to it before I would be able to take it to a game. I initially bought the following parts: SHS High Torque Motor SHS 13:1 Gears ZCI 14 Tooth Piston XT 6 Vent POM Piston Head XT Steel Spring Guide XT M100 Spring I had to grind away part of the gearbox shell to fit the gears, as the Cyma gearbox is reinforced which prevented the spur gear from fitting properly. After doing this, I did my best attempt to shim the new gears. I attached the piston head to the piston, but forgot to use any thread lock when doing this. I then didn't have any time to continue for a couple of months, so I resumed the build this week. I found that everything looked good and ready to assemble, so I put everything back together, and it sounded like it was working great. I was achieving 20rps on a 9.6v NiMH, and it sounded quite good. I then was doing some more test firing, and suddenly a horrendous sound started happening so I stopped firing and disassembled the gun to find the screw holding the piston head had come out (Presumably due to forgetting to use any thread lock), causing a lot of damage. The piston, piston head, cylinder and spring were all damaged, so I purchased replacements. I was unable to get the same piston which I had previously used, so I bought the following replacement parts: XT 14 Tooth Piston Swiss Cheese XT 6 Vent POM Piston Head XT Metal Cylinder Head (Original plastic one wasn't damaged, but gave a poor air seal) XT M100 Spring ZCI V2 Gearbox Screws (I had a screw head snap off the original ones during assembly, so I assumed they were all low quality so replaced them all) After these parts arrived, I then reassembled the RIF and was hoping to have the same success as I had previously, but it sounded horrendous. I tried adjusting the motor height and it only sounded marginally better, so I assumed it would be the new gearbox screws making the gearbox close tighter, meaning I had to reshim. I then disassembled it and closed the gearbox back up with just the gears in, tightened the screws as they were before and tried to spin them, and they were quite tight with the new screws being used, so I decided to start reshimming (It is worth mentioning that the gears, motor pinion and piston teeth all had no signs of damage/wear). I then tried to shim it again from scratch, and after I was happy with it, I reassembled everything and test fired the gun. After reassembling it, I started test firing it and it sounded better than it did before, but it still sounded quite poor and very far away from how it did sound. I tried adjusting the motor height in both directions and I didn't really get any improvements, so I'm wondering what people think on here. I think maybe my shimming could have been done poorly this time, but before completely starting again I thought I would ask for opinions. I've attached a couple of videos of how it sounded before the piston head came off, and after my repairs. Please let me know any thoughts on what the issue could be. Any help would be appreciated, thanks. Before breaking After Breaking

Hello! Looking to upgrade from my Viper extended pistol mag pouches for my MP5 (NGRS) mags. Interested to know what people are using? Ideally open top molle, suitable for use with magpuls. Cheers

It's been a long (and I mean years) time since I had the chance to use my old L85 in anger at all. So, I'm planning a complete internal and external RIS rebuild. Now cards on the table, I'm not the best at this sort of thing so, I've had a read around and can't seem to find out. Does anyone know if there was ever an upgrade complete mech box for the ICS L85. Really, I want to put a mosfit on it, new 11.1 LiPo and it will need a lot gearbox work to get that right. In terms of the hop, I customised it years ago to take account of the useless rotary arm thing. I ended up using a filed down arm and ball shaped bucking. In fairness, the rage was always awesome but, RoF was always very poor. Anyway I think we are at the limits of my ignorance here so, rather than get anything else wrong, I thought I'd ask the hive mind for any advice. Anyone rebuilt, any idea where to get parts, fitting mosfet etc. Thanks in advance

Not disputing the fact that have done and continue to offer high-end upgrade packages but the first question I always ask is 'what's your budget' followed by 'what are you looking to achieve'. From there, I can tailor each build to the customer's specific requirements. Side note, I have never built anything with solely Prommy internals I always select each component based on its own merit with respect to the budget and performance targets. I continually optimise the parts I use and offer based on their performance, price point and availability. @Alex34 Turnaround is currently around 10 days if I have all the parts required in stock That's been my biggest focus over the last decade closely followed by improving communication.

The L85 Cylinder head is non-standard so it's hard to find aftermarket/upgrade ones. Here's a link to, what I believe is, a direct replacement should you ever need it.

I am wanting to upgrade the inner barrel of my G&G M14 Socom 16, can anyone recommend a good brand and source? Thanks in advance 👍

Hi all, Off the back of my Specna adventure I also decided to upgrade the Warthog 12". Replacing the standard 330mm 6.08mm barrel with a ZCI 340mm 6.02mm barrel. New ZCI rotary hop and Maple leaf maceron 60 and omega nub. Before I did the upgrade I played a site yesterday, the gun originally chronod at avg 321fps on .2 with hop set. On site it was about 297fps on .2. I've played a few days since it was chronod and the gun was new from shop when I got it. So it's not done much. Is it normal to drop that much after a few games, bedding in? Anyway, I got the same results when I got home and checked fps. So I upgraded the parts anyway, the fps increased marginaly, I'm guessing due to barrel, to around 306fps on average using .2. For reference I use .25 in game, which is giving an avg of 265fps now. Does anyone know what the factory spring is in this rifle? I was thinking of upgrading it to get a bit more out the gun.

Springer Custom Works makes a SV-98 Chassis for the VSR-10 platform, if you need your SV-98 itch scratched. I have one on my VSR-X and its a phenomenal piece of kit.

That 36K will probably increase your RPS to near 30. Depending on your exact setup, this may end in PME and/or overspin. I suggest either looking for a 30K brushless or going with a brushed 16-18 TPA Neo. Krytac stock motors are technically Neo motors but they’re very weak, so a new motor with strong magnets will be an upgrade.

No its always been run on 11.1 lipo, the standard krytac motor is pretty worn out now so needs replacing, hence the upgrade and yes I was planning on utilising precocking.

I should have mentioned I actually shoot air rifles lol. I can shoot half inch groups at 35-40 yards with them but would never expect that from any airsoft gun, it's impossible. Just for fun and for the garden too is all I expect. I'd expect a bolt action to be more accurate than an AEG but it seems that's not always the case unless you pay the premium or upgrade it to the max. I'll keep an eye out for a cheap bolt action springer or possibly another AEG

Alright, took it apart after today's game and: The internals are proprietary except for the motor, inner barrels and hop rubbers. The springs are vsr-like, but half the length and of odd diametre (11.3mm OD, 8.90 ID). Piston heads (consequently "cylinders" and cylinder heads) are smaller than AEG spec at 20mm OD. Nozzles are proprietary and don't have o-rings. Barrels are supposed to be 226x6.03 but I will check this later. Performance wise it's a hungry beast. Just setting the hops will chew through half a kilogram of 0.25s, it's far from efficient as well, drawing 30odd amps to start and keeping 24A during function, but that is due to the motor being a meh ferrite one. The upgrade plan is: • sort the air seal with new o-rings; • replace the motor with a less thirsty one, even if the overall ROF goes down; • replace hop rubbers to get the maximum possible range on 0.25s; • [optional] replace the inner barrels to bring the power up closer to 0.99J without putting unnecessary stress on the mechanical components. Alternatively make some spacers to go between piston heads and springs to compress them a little more. Pro tip for long term storage: Unscrew the barrel assembly, due to the way it works 4 out of 5 springs are always under tension. Edit: a full sized, picture filled breakdown and "review" will come once I have upgraded it.

Has anyone had any joy upgrading and running a TM Vsr-one? I know that out of the box they are running around 1 joule and you'd obviously was it at around 2 joules to make it competitive. I love the look of them but I remember that upgrading them not as simple as it is with a vsr10. I'm just interested to hear any successes/failures people have had with these. I have done a search on here but there seems to be very little on them. Please point me to the right place if this has already been discussed. Cheers!

In short - yes, I still use bipods. A lot. In long... Yes. I still use bipods, though I have removed them from certain guns and keep them on others (none are sitting idle, all my bipods are on a gun). I found that they were pointless for my VSRs, which are very lightweight rifles so it's no problem for me to hold them up for prolonged periods of time. Worst case I rest them against the ground and then slowly (so I don't get spotted) raise them if I need to shoot something. I don't run a bipod on my faux wood m14, since that's for Vietnam games and Harris bipods don't look the part, and I don't have one on my m14 socom, since that's designed around the idea of a recce rifle, which you want to be as light as possible while still being a longer distance rifle, as it's a rifle you're supposed to be doing recce with, which is a lot of movement over a lot of distance, and carrying unnecessary weight for that is bad; I know these things aren't important to airsoft, but muh immersion! Bipods aren't great for recce builds! However, I still run a bipod on both of my gas bolt actions (KJW m700s, one of which is in an m40a5 stock) as they're heavier anyway and if I'm lying in a spot, which happens a lot, I don't want to have to support the weight of that for long periods of time. I also run a bipod on my HPA m14, SR-25 and my MWS (the one set up as a mk12) for similar reasons. I use them all like sniper rifles and tend to find myself set up lying prone for long periods of time playing this way, since it's a great way to remain undetected. Also, my m249 has a bipod built in and I use that to deploy the gun to rain BBs on a position. It is heavy and will always be heavy, because LMG... Basically, anything I run like a sniper rifle, with the VSR and faux wood m14 as exceptions, I run a bipod on since I find myself going prone a lot and having to hold lines for long periods of time. I don't always deploy it as sometimes I can rest it on something else, like a log, stone or the ground if I'm cresting over the top of an incline. Considering most of the guns I use are already pretty heavy, in part because a lot of them are gas guns, a bipod isn't that much more added weight and is very useful for how I play.

After all it is airsoft..... 😉👍

Upgrade day 🤪… The ‘essential’ Laylax purple bits and 6.03 barrel ☑️

Hi all, So I have a KTW winchester rifle and would like to change the spring for a bit more power. Has anyone changed a spring in one of these? I can't seem to find any info about these. I'm thinking I'm going to have to get a spring made up? Thanks

Sound advice mate. Appreciate it. Ill find the wiitech upgrade and get both done. Gives me something to do lol. - Chris

it can be a tricky as the nozzle return springs are tiny and easily bent. I'd buy some spares just in case. Got mine done by a tech to save the hassle Another known weak point in the mp9 is the disconnector which is made of cheese, wiitech do a steel upgrade part which is worth getting too

Hi folks, I mainly play with GBBR but over this year I want to build a OP aeg for those winter months. I’m thinking of buying a Specna Arms A07 that’s going cheap near me to do a brushless upgrade, but as this will be the first time I fit a brushless motor, what other upgrades do you recommend? I’m planning on fitting ZCI 16:1 gears

It literally just acts like an ordinary motor except for in conjunction with ETUs and other units that use AB or reverse the polarity for other reasons. For example, my primary uses a T238 33K brushless with the stock 18:1 gearset. I get 29 RPS on 11.1v with extremely snappy trigger response. No ETU, just the stock inline MOSFET and microswitch. But if you want OP trigger response… I used another T238 33K paired with a 16:1 spur, a standard 10T bevel, and an SHS DSG gear. Boom: 60 RPS. (Disclaimer: never used on auto in a game) But if you really want ultimate trigger response, you don’t need to go brushless: either build a simple 18:1 28TPA DSG on 11.1v, or a 12:1 28TPA SSG using 14.8v. Use a Perun or Gate and set precocking if you like. in general, you don’t need to go crazy expensive at all. My primary cost, in total, $350 USD or £270ish. Most of the time when people are recommending mad expensive upgrade sets it means they don’t really understand how to tech correctly: most stock parts can be adjusted, modified, and work just fine or better than “upgrades”, since they’re actually designed to fit the specific RIF you’re working on.

I was thinking of getting the Specna Arms RRA SA E07 Edge and upgrading it with a standard Warhead motor (30k with 11.1v) and either 16:1 or 13:1 ratio gears. I assume I would also need to short stroke it. Would this be possible? Thanks in advance!

I have a front-wired G&G M4 Carbine Combat Machine that I bought new. Recently, I added a prometheus 6.03 inner barrel (380mm) and it ran just fine afterwards (I also put in the prometheus 50 degree/purple bucking). However, after adding an M120 spring, it will not fire with a mag inserted. Without a mag, it dry fires just fine. When the mag is inserted, it sounds like the battery is dying and immediately jams before getting anything down range. Any ideas on what it could be?

Thank you it's a labour of love, I am about to start my Colonial Marine version upgrade to full GBB when all the components arrive!