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Samwise last won the day on October 27 2016

Samwise had the most liked content!

About Samwise

  • Rank
    AF-UK Newbie
  • Birthday 23/10/1987

Profile Information

  • Guns
    All of them
  • Loadouts
    Super Sneaky CQB Sniper with custom leaf suit.
  • Sites
    Fife WarGames
  • Gender
  • Location
    Dundee, Scotland
  • Interests
    Airsoft, Physics, Cycling, Bushcraft, Airsoft, Coffee, Computer Games, Whiskey & Airsoft.

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  1. That receiver set does not come with a charging handle but any AEG one will do The Spike Tactical rail is lovely btw, I run one on my TM Recoil. It's quite wide so it suite large hands. You can fit a 40mm suppressor inside it too, I'm using it for a Honey Badger style build.
  2. The Tokyo Marui PSG-1. Probably one of the rarest AEGs you'll see (or not) on the skirmish field. It uses a unique v4 gearbox with many advantages and cool features and can be upgraded to Bolt-Action levels of performance. There are two main problems with these beasts: The parts are very hard to find and the trigger feels horrible! With a little digging and delving, I've managed to source every upgrade part I wanted for my own build. Thanks to a little inspiration from Luke Mosley aka SkyDiver, I've worked out a way to get rid of the soft, spongy trigger by hooking up a BTC Chimera MOSFET. I'll give you guys a quick run-down of all the parts I've used for the build and then take you through the steps required to install the Chimera. For the externals: TM PSG-1 of course G&G Magnesium Receiver set G&G Steel Stock Screws G&G Extended PSG-1 Top Rail PDI Chamber Block PDI Fluted Outer Barrel Custom Made (to the real dimensions) PSG-1 Suppressor (LCsEngineering) G&G Rail Magpul XTM2 Covers Magpul AFG Genuine Harris Bipod UTG Low Scope Mounts UTG Scope (will update with exact model) Scope Spirit Level (will update with exact model) Bed-liner sprayed grip Here it is Centre-Stage: And for the internals: Systema 300% Bore-Up Kit, which includes: -Chromoly Steel gears (36.9:1) -300% Spring -Bearing Spring Guide -Steel Bore-Up Cylinder Head -Mushroom Piston Head & O-Ring -Steel Bore-Up Cylinder -Bore-Up Nozzle -Aluminium 19T Piston Systema Steel Top Plate TerminusX 6mm Tungsten Carbide Bushings (out of production, I'd recommend Prometheus or FLT now) Airsoft Engineer Custom Steel ARL Plus all of the usual shimming and tuning Hand made Medium Motor: -14TPA - 20AWG (0.8mm Dia) -N42 Neo Magnets -Helical Armature -Vented Shell -Silver Vertical Brushes -Strong Brush Springs -Over-sized support bearings -Epoxy-potted Windings and comm-tabs -HMP Soldered comm-tabs -Balanced -Shimmed -Trued on the Comm Lathe BTC Chimera v2 Genuine Deans Ultra connector EdGI 650mm 5.98 ID Barrel with 6mm Square-Cut Window R-Hop Prometheus Purple Hop Rubber The idea here was to create something with a huge amount of air output with a very tight barrel to maximise the energy bias. Using a barrel as tight as this doesn't create anywhere near the issues most people tend to think it will and you really don't need to clean them that often if you simply take care of the rifle. Using high quality ammo is essential but that's a discussion for another time I wanted as much of that air to be used in propelling the BB out of the barrel as possible. This will allow the use of a lighter spring (effectively an M150, though I did cut it down by a couple of coils) which will put less stress on the gearbox internals - I want this build to last forever as some of the parts (the gears especially) basically don't exist any more. You could even run this build on the stock gears and achieve 500fps and still have it last a good while. Please don't hesitate to ask or PM me with questions about the build, why I chose certain components or even help with sourcing parts Installing the BTC Chimera was probably the part I looked forward to the most! I'd already completed the external build and about half of the internals but was running it on an Extreme-Fire SW-Cheetah-2N MOSFET that hooked into the existing trigger mech (I stripped out the electrical safety). This meant that the trigger still had that awful, soft-spongy feel to it so I didn't use the gun as often as I'd like. Installing the Chimera solves everything though To get it in the gun, a little modification was required to the trigger mech so there was space to glue in the required Microswitches. I opted to install the switches inside the switch assembly instead of inside the gearbox shell so that the wiring could be decoupled from the gearbox. This makes it easier to work on, tidier and allows for future work to be carried out on the gearbox without wires getting in the way. I roughly lined up where the switches would have to go on either half of the assembly. For the trigger side, we have to use the secondary trigger lever so that spring tension will still be applied to the trigger to reset it after each shot. This is because the trigger level itself does not have it's own spring. Lining up the switch was pretty easy here, simply mark the resting and final position of the secondary lever and position the switch so that it is fully depressed in the final position and just untouched when the lever is back. I used the large milling bit for my Dremel to take away any obstructing plastic so the switch could be positioned correctly. For the Cutoff Lever switch, it was a tad trickier. I initially positioned the switch so it sat very closely over the lever, which works fine when the gear activate the Cutoff. The problem came when I tested the manual de-cocking function, which extends the lever further than the gears would to unlock the ARL. This caused the lever to move fully above the switch, allowing it to spring out and block the lever's return. No good at all. Moving the switch a little higher solved everything. The cutoff lever still activates the switch when operated by the gears but does not move above it when manually pushed. Once the positions were sorted and channels were dremeled for the wires, I soldered some thin wires to the bottom tabs of the switches and glued them in place with a tiny dab of superglue. Be sure to clean the area thoroughly with IsoPropyl Alcohol before doing this and ensure no glue enters the switch. After that, a little epoxy was used to hold them in place permanently and protect the wires from flexing and pulling the switches There are now four wires protruding from the front of the assembled trigger unit. Choose one from each switch and label it 'Ground'. It doesn't matter which ones - you can even solder them together to form one wire. This line will be routed directly to the Ground pin on the Chimera. The other two wires will go to the trigger pin and cutoff pin respectively. Lastly, we'll need to take the fire-selector pin and take that to Ground as well. This negates the need for installing a third microswitch to detect the selector plate position. Since there are only Safety and Semi-Auto positions and the safety manually blocks the trigger, this isn't an issue. We just have to program both selector positions to Semi-Auto Only in the Chimera. I've soldered the wires on to the corresponding wires of the data cable that comes with the Chimera to avoid having to solder directly to the board (pictures to follow). And that's basically it Just reinstall the gearbox and route the wires through the stock with your connector of choice (Gotta be Deans) and you're done! Let me know if you have any questions at all, I've really enjoyed building this rifle and would love to see more of it's kind on the field
  3. The only reason to use a full metal piston (body and teeth) would be to give better energy bias with heavier ammo. Basically, you'll joule-creep more efficiently with a heavier piston. Aside from that, there are loads of good pistons available. For the TM M14, I'd recommend the Prometheus Hard or SHS 14 steel tooth pistons.
  4. The Firestorm units are pretty cool and based on the Extreme-Fire SW-Lynx so you know they're good. The disassembly process is fairly straightforward, though they can be tricky to put back together. I have a G&G one in the shop - they are basically identical, I'll do a disassembly video for you when I get a minute - hopefully today
  5. The Longer version simply has a longer barrel. The main advantage to a longer barrel is that it is easier to build up a higher power level with less stress on the gearbox (to a point). There can be minor consistency improvements at range with longer barrels but bore quality is the real key factor there. You won't really see much (if any) difference with the aluminium barrels the CM16 series come with. It's still an excellent starter gun and gets my recommendation
  6. You don't specifically need to open up the gearbox to install a MOSFET on the M14, though it is neater. There isn't a drop-in trigger replacement FET for the M14 gearbox, though I have seen one or two pictures of ultra-small FETs squeezed inside the gearbox. For the most part, the unit will sit either just behind the motor or just in front of the gearbox, depending on the model of M14 (standard or EBR). Ideally, you'd want to solder the new switching wires to the existing trigger contacts but you could solder them on to the existing wires if you really didn't want to open the gearbox. It's a pretty easy setup: 1 or 2 wires to the trigger contacts (depending on the FET design) 2 wires to the motor and 2 wires to the battery. Which MOSFET were you looking at purchasing?
  7. Already on top of that Currently in the process of setting up Inward Processing Authorisation so I can take international jobs without having to worry about VAT/Duty. As you might imagine, there is an insane amount of paperwork involved. It's not dissimilar to Futurama!
  8. Haha, yeah it's hard to tell I suppose - I'm still a newbie here My philosophy has always been to help folks first and if they want to send stuff to me, that's fine too. That's why I have DIY guides on YouTube and the website. It always angered me that my early days on the forums were mostly trying to squeeze 'secret' information out of techs who thought that sharing was beneath them. You'd be surprised at just how little money I make. My prices aren't the cheapest but my take-home is not very much at all. If I were in this for the profit, I wouldn't be running a tech shop - I'd be running a Retail shop
  9. Wow, it's been years since I last saw a CA M14 - nice find The CA M14 uses an almost identical gearbox to the G&G M14. Some people find it easier to work on but performance is (or can be made) comparable to the TM/Cyma design. There's nothing inherently superior over the Cyma M14 but the Quality Control is better. You can take either one to about the same overall level of performance so I would say just upgrade the one you have. I personally prefer the TM M14 as the body is slimmer and the trigger feels a tad nicer. Plus I find them easier to work on but like I said, not everyone else does.
  10. The Evo is only 'designed' for an 11.1v LiPo in as much as it has a high TPA motor. That's literally it. You could install an AAC 30K motor and run it on a 7.4v LiPo to get much the same performance but put less stress on the FETs. The motor would also last longer
  11. I did wonder. I run into enough people who think Nuprol make (rebrand) decent stuff that it's hard to tell now. I wasn't aware that making fun of people was what this forum was all about. I could try to do that a bit more but I usually prefer just to help people
  12. They are awesome platforms, though not the easiest to find parts for now. I'm a bit sad that I sold my SV before I really got in to it properly. Laylax make a 90 degree trigger unit for the gun (under their PSS2 line), which I'd highly recommend. They usually come with the corresponding piston but the ones I've found in stock don't have that pictured, so it would be best to call and ask. For the barrel, I'd recommend an EdGI Custom Works barrel. The longer it is, the tighter ID I would use. This allows for better efficiency and energy bias with heavier ammo. So long as you're using good quality ammo (G&G, TM, Maruzen, Airsoft Surgeon, Geoffs) there will be no issue running a barrel even as tight as 5.98mm **Brace for the misinformed Hate** For the method of backspin, an R-Hop would be the way to go. Combine that with the Action Army hop chamber and you'll have a top notch setup For the cylinder assembly, PDI make some excellent components that I would rate higher than the Laylax Teflon cylinder set. The Laylax pistons can be made compatible with just a small amount of sanding to the guide rings. The stock is pretty awesome, I can't imagine a good reason to upgrade or change that. Unless you maybe wanted a hand-made one from Taring Carving (check them out on Facebook). PDI also make some nice outer barrel assemblies if you want to add some weight and bling! Failing that, you could just sell it to me I'd love to own one again.
  13. Using heavier ammo will take advantage of something called Joule Creep, which will give you a higher power output as the BB stays in the barrel longer which allows more energy to be imparted. I can't say I'd recommend 'Nuprol' ammo personally, I've never found it to be as good as the likes of G&G, TM or Airsoft Surgeon. Running 0.28 or 0.3g G&G ammo through a TM G18c gives some tasty range and accuracy. Is there a particular reason you're looking for more range and power from what is usually used as a sidearm? I'm not trying to dissuade you, merely pointing out that they aren't usually used at long range. TM Glocks (and all TM guns now) have really excellent barrels and hop rubbers, so those are the last things I'd touch in the order of upgrades. Most folks usually want to increase trigger response, which is primarily done by making the slide assembly lighter.
  14. As has been said by several folks here, both guns are excellent and neither requires any upgrades to be fieldable. There are of course, many areas that you can improve but nothing essential. I would say that the Krytac has better trigger response but the TM has better accuracy and consistency - plus all of the extra features and the recoil And yeah, a good quality (high discharge) 7.4v LiPo would be ideal for either gun. I'd recommend Turnigy Nanotech batteries from HobbyKing bur the ones from Component Shop are also good. Also, the TM hop chamber design is far superior to the Krytac - especially the SCAR-H and 417 variant.
  15. Battery capacity is critical in understanding how they work, it matters as much as the discharge rate ©. Before I go in to that though, I'll just mention that the Ares guns have questionable quality control on their bearings. I'd recommend swapping them out for bushings if you plan on running an 11.1v LiPo. So a battery gives us two things, Voltage and Current. The Voltage a battery gives is listed on it usually but is the Nominal rating. This is essentially the Voltage at which the battery spends most of it's time closest to, kinda like the middle Voltage. A fully charged 7.4v LiPo will actually hold 8.4v and an 11.1v will hold 12.6v when full. The Current a battery can provide is slightly trickier to work out. Batteries are stress tested at the factory, which gives the manufacturer an idea the power any given battery can safely provide before it starts degrading. This is listed as the 'C' rating and is the number of Amps it can provide per 1000mAh of capacity. So if you have a 2000mAh 20C battery, it can provide 10 Amps for each 1000mAh, 10 x 2 = 40Amps Another common configuration is 1200mAh 50C, which would provide 60 Amps. Most airsoft guns draw a spike of around 30-35Amps on semi and around 15-20Amps on full auto. As long as your battery can provide that, all is good. If your battery can't provide that, it starts damaging the battery. If it's a LiPo, that's when they get hot and start to well. The motor will only draw the Current it needs to operate where it wants to operate (it's tacticool like that), so it's better to have more on offer than not enough. Hopefully that helps you a bit
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