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Like we should expect anything else

With that budget, the best I could suggest is trying to find a WE G36. They're relatively cheap, often around £200 and they're relatively reliable and perform decently. There is also the AA R36 (which is a clone of the WE) for £220 and they're normally readily available, plus they come with 2 mags, however, they are a bit cheap quality wise. An SMG setup *may* be a little cheaper. If you're lucky to find a decent one second hand, KWA MP9's are decent guns which sell for £250ish normally, however, they are prone to breakdowns which are normally common so unless you know what's going on with 'em, don't get one. (the VORSK VMP1 seems like a nice alternative though I have no experience on them so I can't comment). Other than that, a gen 2 VFC or a TM MP7 would be the safer bet. You will be hard pressed to find anything for £240 that is decent enough to last, and leaves enough room to buy magazines and gas. It's best to save up and buy yourself something nice like a MWS or a Gen 2/3 VFC AR/416 (or the aforementioned SMG's) and get a few more mags with them.

Need, maybe not, but I'd always choose higher C (and higher capacity) over lower. Although with the caveat that anyone can claim anything, and very rarely have it tested. Hmm, I might suggest airsoft batteries to to ProjectFarm... 🤔

If anything shorter, in that it's highly likely that the nozzle is ever so slightly too long for the hop unit so when pulled back a BB cannot always enter it (especially if you're firing rapidly). Vernier callipers and a selection of nozzles in your own "airsoft parts bin" always helps

Coming to you as a total non-connoisseur, who just knocks back anything that'll get me buzzin', is the Brugal and Barcelo stuff I've got from the Caribbean any good, or is it Just For Them Touristas?

Re black gas, in freezing conditions its pressure is considerably reduced, yes if you are stupid and use it when warmer breakages will occur. You are correct Parker gun oil does not contain PTFE or any other modern slippery substance, it is a mineral oil of which its natural properties provide lubrication. It is also lightweight, so it penetrates, does not clog, and it cleans, it is not a one time treatment, it is meant to be applied and removed with each usage of the RIF just as you would a real firearm. I mean i havent run MWS's since they came out or anything.

Dunno about this, couple thousand through and my DE's nozzle is fine and I've been using TM mags, and most people recommend using the GM mags with the DE because the DE mags are based off the GM mags (The GMs are just better though). On the gas end, The max anyone should be putting through the MWS is red, black is overkill even in 0c, remember this gun was made to run duster gas in japan which has climates varying from scalding in the southerner areas to below freezing in the northernmost areas. Red is good for even 0c if you do your due diligence with sealing (Which is really required for running any gbbr in winter). Black gas is way more likely to break your gun (or even your mags, i found out). On the oil thing, I'll admit im not lubrication expert. So I'd never heard of Parker Hale gun oil, and after looking at it, it doesn't seem to contain anything that provides a boundary lubricant (e.g. PTFE/Syncolon my beloved). It's marketed as a rust preventer(?). What makes you recommend that?

Not owned 8fields kit, but I've never had a mag, pistol or rifle, fall out of those kind of pouches, so it's probably safe to assume you never had it adjusted tight enough, not a criticism just an observation. As a young squaddie literally 4 decades ago, one of the first things we were taught was once your kit was loaded up, have a good jump around in front of your mates, looking for anything that might make a noise & give you away, & that everything is secure. Good rule of thumb before your next game.

I have ordered the next bucking for the power of the gun, also ordered tight bore barrel, everything worked perfectly, then the gun Sat unused for like 8 months, could the bucking have gone or anything? Also noticed that since last playing 8 months ago, the shots curve right when they come out, could the barrel have gone or changed shape a little and not sealing properly?

Yes, biggest "issue" with the Marui MP7 that it's scaled to 90% of the real deal (if it bothers you). I never owned either WE or Marui but I have a VFC and every MP7 has the same issue more or less. Simply that constant bashing to the rear is gonna either crack the receiver or make it to explode whatever inside. Stock backplate is gonna give in over time. To my knowledge there is only one solution: aftermarket cnc'd backplate and any picatinny sling mount around the charging handle to make it more rigid. Well, that's what I did. I think getting spares for Marui is way more difficult. If I need anything VFC related, I can go to mlemart or wgcshop or any other HK based retailer. Yes, worst case scenario VFC itself but it takes time for sure.

Hello, I've been doing airsoft a couple of years but I'm very new to GBBR and the mk18 mws is my first gas gun so apologise for any stupid questions, any help is massively appreciated! Firstly I got the gun out read the manuals (looked at the pictures) there was one picture that confused me abit about splitting the gun as I've never done it before and don't want to be stuck if I ever need to, what position does the bolt need to be in when taking out the pins and splitting, logic tells me forward but I've learnt not to trust logic haha. Also is there anything else i should know? Secondly is there anything I should change or do to the gun immediately or just wait until I need to do it. I have had a look on YouTube but everyone seems to call things different names and I'm not massively clued up anyway. Third I made the decision to use nuprol 2.0 green gas as I couldn't find any dry gas available in the uk and I don't mind the extra maintenance (once I know how), problem is I use 0.28g and its firing 305fps which would be too hot for uk limits but then it fires 330 on 0.20g which is ok so I'm not really sure how that is happening and what I need to do if I want to use 0.28g as I'm worried about using weaker gas incase i break something. Finally, using green gas, how often would you recommend cleaning. i attend games every Sunday sometimes every other Sunday. Once again thank you for any help i didn't realise how stressful it would be but i kind of like it haha.

Hello all and thanks in advance for the suggestions. I’m after some advice on what upgrades to get for my 6 year old M4 ngrs. I’ve already put a bigger spring in and flat hopped it with purple bucking, I’m more after advice on the gearbox side. I only ever use it in semi so I was thinking a mosfet (bonus of it not locking up, my fault I know) and while I’m in there anything else really? My budget is £400 cheers guys.

Only kind of, and only with significant modification. The only thing I can think of that is potentially drop in, is hop up unit, but then you have to use GHK nozzles which is a ballache, because the nozzles need filing down to work with WA BCG's as they're dimensionally too big OOTB. Nozzle guides are also different, can again kind of work with some filing, but nothing is easy. God forbid you need anything in the FCG, as its a complete shitshow in compatibility, given GHK can't guarantee compatibility between their own QC and generational differences, let alone compatibility with WA.

@ak2m4Finally got around to sorting out my semi-boneyard CMYA MP5K, needed a v3 spring guide from you as I disassembled the gearbox last weekend and the ball bearing cage just fell apart So, running your brushless motor along with a GATE Titan v3, and I've now a nice little nippy SMG 😁 AB is set to manual and zero percent, but anything else you recommend for GATE Titan users with your motor?

Out of interest I have tried to do a field design based on this site, using the information available on the planning portal. Particularly I wanted to test whether the very linear layout of the existing mall could be made into something more playable. So I tried to implement some theories from video game level design and see if they can be applied here. The below is an illustration of a possible design and the steps I had taken. Step 1 Design preparations First we need to allocate space to the safe zone and game zone etc. There are two main existing entrances to the mall but the escalators to the south in my opinion will not be suitable because they cannot function as stairs nor fire escape, so if they are permanently turned off this entrance cannot be safely used. Therefore we can only use the north entrance as the main entrance, accordingly the safe zone (and its size requirement for 50 visitors) is placed next to the entrance lobby. The lobby has enough space for a small reception and waiting area and probably even a small shop. Staff and guest toilets are upstairs from the safe zone. My design is heavily based on the concept of "lanes" in game level design which refers to the overall pathing network of the map. The immediate issue is too many dead-ends, which is an absolute nono in level design, so before we can even design anything we need to eliminate these dead-ends by creating loops. This is achieved by demolishing the existing partition walls (where structurally permitted) to create openings near the end of these dead-ends, so they can continue their paths and loop back into the map. At the bottom space where it is only reachable via a choke point, I have walled off the path to effectively create another loop that can be meaningfully progressed from one side through another. This becomes the basic "topology" of the map that we can start to work on. Step 2 Topological interventions Looking at the topology it is immediately obvious the central lane is too connected and will attract too much action from everywhere, in game level design terms this is too many options for the player to choose from. Three precision cuts can prune this network into several distinct sectors with an acceptable number of optional paths to progress through. Due to the shape of how this is arranged, it seems natural to place the two team spawn points on left and right, so there are multiple optional sectors and paths for them to fight through. If the spawns are top and bottom it would appear too much choke points will be in the middle and the winding paths near the two spawns will not see too many action therefore wasted space. Step 3 Cover placement and distances With the schematic from the previous step we can start to sketch out where to put the covers and checking the distances. At this point I was only concerned with the gameplay itself and not think too much about scenic design, which will come later. For example I am only placing the high or low covers based on how the space can be progressed through, and trying to have a variation of tactical options for each situation. For areas near the two spawns I would also try to give advantage to the home team to try to help them progress back towards the middle. There are 4 Point Of Interests (for objectives) placed in each zone, and by measuring the distances from each spawn their positions can be tweaked for balance. By happy accident only two can be balanced and the other two is giving each of the team a slight advantage, which should be good for various game modes (e.g. bomb diffusion). This is also when fire escapes distances could be checked to make sure at every point from the map there is a suitable escape route for fire safety reasons and compliance with regulations (drawing illustrative only, not fire safety advice). (Disclaimer: This post is not professional advice. To comply with building regulations and dealing with planning conditions and other stuff please consult professionals.) Step 4 Scenic design Once we have the schematic of roughly how the tactical gameplay is conducted, we can start to make it pretty and immersive. The four "sectors" of the map makes a good template for different biomes or themes to take place. In this example I have made up some themes like "Mall" and "Factory" and "Office" and "Airfield". This can then guide how we can choose what objects to put up as cover, and what kind of non-functional decorative doodads to put up on walls and so on. For example in the "Mall" each of the rooms can be a different vendor with different themes e.g. restaurant or fashion shop or phone shop etc. which influences the atmosphere or feel or even distribution of covers of each space. Again for example the "Factory" can be heavily decorated with fake pipes or barrels. And in the "Airfield" with decorations associated with an airport like check-in counters or duty-free shops and so on. Notice I have put the "Airfield" to the south area to make use of the high level of natural lighting to suit the atmosphere, and the "Factory" in the middle so it is darker. Step 5 Detail designs and construction and so on (no image) The remaining steps are just realising the interior design, prop design, signage placement, lighting, etc. to generally follow the themes of each zone or room. I don't have a drawing here because this can be heavily influenced by the aesthetic taste of the business operator and their budget and so on. This is also where the practical and safety details to be added like fire escape signage, or transitional thresholds from safe zone to game area, or special floor markings etc. In this example there may also be visibility concerns because the glass curtain walling to the south (facing the high street) may need to be blacked out to prevent pedestrians from seeing the RIFs, so is the entrance lobby to the north. In terms of construction, the decorations and covers and props and other doodads can be simple pieces of woodwork or metalwork. There could even be interactive elements e.g. electronic or manually operated installations. It can be really creative and use savaged car parts or heavy machines and so on as cover or decoration. Once construction is complete and the necessary props added, the site should be functional and playable and rest is getting outside of the scope of map design. In conclusion, this is just a sketch exercise for me to dabble into airsoft field design but I think this map that I have drawn should play fairly well and look fairly immersive given some creativity and budget. Any criticism and suggestions are very welcome.

Sorry but with all those issues and the time you've spent messing with it you should send it back for a refund or the seller should at least offer a partial refund, they can't have been in the dark about its condition I'm fed up with people getting dicked over with sales. Even if the seller claims to not know anything is wrong with the gun and let's be honest the majority of the time they do and it's them that have fucked about with it and claimed they didn't know (not saying it's the case with this particular sale but it happens alot) How was the gun advertised? With just a minor thing that needs fixing?

Don’t buy anything until you have actually handled a few, and spoken to the owner on what they have had to do/fix etc see what people run at your local sites

I was going to say that if you're playing CQB, you can run a GBB pistol primary effectively, and if you get the right one, you can dress it up in any carbine kit you like. However, Apocalypse is a hundred acre woodland site, so I'd definitely go AEG there. And of course rent first and try airsoft out a few times before buying anything (except footwear and maybe eyepro). I suspect that OP may be listing what he wants, rather than what he has.

I ordered one of the WADSN PTTs from ali and it's been working great, just had to return the pair of Not Comtac IIs because I bought the non active version so it was just a microphone/headset and I couldn't hear anything with them on 😅, will order the slightly more expensive ones from there when I get the spondoolies in. Scope packaging gave me a good laugh. It is not scope. It is Vision King