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ASG do higher power gases now. Their top gas is 178psi (Ultrair is 135psi) and there’s also a 164psi gas The 178psi is properly lairy in anything other than the coldest of coldest weathers

If you're looking for smaller unit purchases (though more often) i've never had an issue using 0.25g tracers from Rebel Precision alongside Tippmann 0.28g bio tracers. I've not used both companies non-tracer BBs but can't imagine the quality/performance is much different from their tracers. For outdoor/regular BBs I use just about anything (never had jamming issues) but my current stock are BLS for 0.28g upwards which I use exclusively for outdoors.

In terms of mixing, it appears that ALL the manufactures (at least on Evike) would agree on bearings on bevel and bushing on spur and sector Not sure if this means anything https://www.evike.com/index.php?cPath=28_24_68_518

Bit long but persevere lol. Merry Christmas everybody An Aussie named Bazza wanted to buy a motorcycle. He doesn't have much luck, until one day, he comes across a Harley with a for sale' sign on it. The bike looks better than a new one, although it is 10 years old. It's shiny and in mint condition. He buys it and asks the seller how he kept it in such great condition for 10 years. 'Well, it's quite simple,' says the seller, 'whenever the bike is outside and it's gonna rain, rub Vaseline on the chrome. It protects it from the rain', and he hands Bazza a jar of Vaseline. That night, his girlfriend, Shazza, invites him over to meet her parents. Naturally, they take the bike there. Just before they enter the house, Shazza stops him and says, 'I have to tell you something about my family. When we eat dinner, we don't talk. In fact, the FIRST person who says anything during dinner has to do the dishes. ' No problem,' he says… And in they go. Bazza is shocked. Right in the middle of the living room is a huge stack of dirty dishes. In the kitchen is another huge stack of dishes. Piled up on the stairs, in the corridor, everywhere he looks. Dirty dishes. They sit down to dinner, and sure enough, no one says a word. As dinner progresses, Bazza decides to take advantage of the situation. He leans over and kisses Shazza. No one says a word. He reaches over and fondles her breasts. Nobody says a word. So he stands up, grabs her, rips her clothes off, throws her on the table, and takes her, right there in front of her parents. His girlfriend is a little flustered, her dad is obviously livid and her mum horrified when he sits back down, but no one says a word. He looks at her mum. She's got a great body too. Bazza grabs mum, bends her over the table, pulls down her knickers, and turns her every which way but loose right there on the dinner table. She has a big orgasm, & Bazza sits down. His girlfriend is furious, her dad is boiling, & mum is beaming from ear to ear. But still....Total silence. All of a sudden there is a loud clap of thunder, and it starts to rain.. Bazza remembers his bike, so he pulls the jar of Vaseline from his pocket.. Suddenly the father shouted. 'I'll do the bloody dishes!!"

This is by the tree. Could be anything.

I hadn't spent much on anything Airsoft this year, and only played once. And then I bought an mws. Haven't used a rifle in years and decided it's the only rifle I have any desire to run and might peak my interest in playing again.

Ouch. I've been looking for a good few months now (thankfully still gainfully employed but have some doubts over longevity next year) but the market has seemingly tanked compared to a couple of years ago for my line of work. Where did you get these? That's exactly the kind of thing I'm looking for. That is a very healthy haul of goodies. I've had a look at Action's boneyard a few times and it's either empty or anything decent has already gone. I think I know who the culprit is now.

I never said UKAPU has "perpetrated" anything against me (you know what they say about assumptions, right? 🙄) and I'm not "incensed" with them -- I literally asked a question about the timescales for agenda and election not matching what the Constitution demands... not a complex or unreasonable thing to observe / question. No crusade, and no "rant" either, I put nobody "on trial" and didn't force anything on anyone, "dear" -- perhaps you'd do well to check yourself, before condescendingly trying to police others -- if you projected any harder, we'd be able to see you on the moon.

A modern V2 should have no issues with cracking below an M150. I know a lot of very low quality boxes do end up having issues… **cough cough** Ares **cough** …but that really shouldn’t be the norm. The V2 design as a whole is susceptible to strain on the front corners, but a lot of cracking issues are caused more by tolerance issues. For example, aftermarket cylinder heads with bumpers on the front are notorious for ruining shells. Or the issues with shells themselves, like many of the RA CNC shells have had, where pegs are in the wrong places, etc. But now to the actual question… For me, it looks like a lot like a P90 with a very slightly longer inner barrel (300mm), and an internal mid cap/hopper system, where you pour BBs in, wind about 2,000, and don’t touch anything for the rest of the game. Electronic trigger, throw a few rails on there. Design a hop system that’s screwed into the frame and is actually stabilized with good tolerances. Add an adjustable rubber clamp to the end of the outer barrel to hold the inner steady (just a grub screw would do well). And I’d use standard bushings just for simplicity. Brushless motor + potentiometer to finish it off.

Thank you all, I will stick with collection only when selling them. Not worth it if it gets lost then no insurance or anything 😭

Introduction: The lost art of capacitors in airsoft The mythical powers of "capacitor banks" is not a new idea in airsoft, but the original sources and theories are lost in time, with only faint forum posts remain (all the links are dead in https://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/threads/capacitor-banks-revisited.8688/). In my pursuit of the ultimate trigger response in AEG, power supply remains a big unresolved issue because batteries (LiPo or NiMH) do not really give enough oomph for lack of a better word. We need something better, I thought, we need supercapacitors. And so I set out to rediscover the elementals of such dark magic from scratch (but based on the same principles). And I believe I have revived this magic which I will share my formula below. And dare I say, the surface of this dark art has not really been scratched, because the predecessors either did not use enough capacity (some examples were in the order of millifarads which is not nearly enough), and did not really use the correct type of supercaps (stacked coin cells hybrid types are not capable of high amps). And perhaps the right modules were not available until very recently, so this study will also represent a fresh look into this subject. If you want the bottom line: Why supercaps at all, isn't LiPo good enough? In short (excuse the pun), LiPo cannot provide sufficient peak current for the amp spikes during start of motor which is often in the region of 45-60 A. These micro-events of shorts (from the perspective of the battery) is also a main pathology of LiPo degrading and swelling over time. These spikes happen every shot in semi, and in the first shots in full-auto. This status quo practice of relying on abusing LiPo as sacrifice for performance does not sit well with me, because firstly it is electrically primitive, and secondly it is a safety risk in this toy gun industry that I think is unnecessary and should be done away with, at least as much as possible. The whole premise of using supercaps is to provide a voltage reservoir for surge power during these initial amp spikes. This is needed because these amp spike often exceed the capabilities of the battery (even LiPo) and the batteries drops voltage in response (for milliseconds) and unable to feed all the current needed for this initial spin-up of the motor. In theory, it can achieve the following: Surge power for much more responsive motor, resulting in snappier trigger response. Stabilised voltage supply for full-auto, resulting in better ROF. Protecting batteries from surge currents, prolonging their lifespan and minimise risks of LiPo fire. My evidence and theorisations are as follows. What is the actual energy requirement? To begin to figure out the solution, we need to ask, what is the minimum capacity to be effective? We can analyse these two graphs from airsoftlab.eu for theorycrafting. http://www.airsoftlab.eu/docs/experiments/motor_current/ To figure out the ballpark of energy levels we are talking about, I have picked two cases representative of a high stress build (with a 16 TPA motor) and a more optimal build (with a 28 TPA). The first graph is with 16 TPA motor, SP130, 13:1, to illustrate a typical suboptimal setup with a low torque motor paired with a high stress spring and gear ratio. The second graph is with a more comfortable 28 TPA motor with SP130 and 13:1 to show a more efficient setup. Just by eyeballing the graphs (and the blog), we can character these spikes (and the energy required to tame them) to be about 45A to 60A, for a duration of about 60ms. 16 TPA: 28 TPA: What do the numbers mean? There is a simple answer, and a more complex one. A simplistic way to translate this to farad (the capacity we need), using the 16 TPA setup as example, 60A for 60ms is 3.6 coulomb, which at 11.1V is about 0.324 F. For the 28 TPA example, this would be 2.7 coulomb, at 11.1 V this is 0.243 F. Therefore we can say our ballpark figure is about 0.25 F to 0.33 F as a minimum target. If we are aiming to create a unit that can work with worst case scenario, let's go with 0.33 F. However because supercaps discharge their voltage linearly (meaning their 11.1 V drops down to zero as it discharges over the 60 ms), we can think of it as sharing the workload with the battery in a 1:1 ratio (this is very simplified), meaning it is only doing half of the work while the batteries still need to supply the other half of the current (which is a big improvement already). Here is a prediction: In this predicted scenario, the amp spike seen by the battery should be reduced to less than half, because the supercaps will react faster to supply the spike, but as the supercap runs out of voltage, the battery will notice the difference in voltage and catch up, eventually supplying the full load in full-auto, but at a much improved stability. And as the trigger is released, the current stops, the supercaps are charged up again to battery voltage as the battery recovers from voltage sag. We can offload even more work from the batteries if we multiply the supercap capacity (say 3 times, to 1 F) so the they will perform in a 3:1 relationship i.e. 75% of the work are done by supercaps, which will stabilise the current even more. If we go bigger, say 1.66 F, the ratio will be 5:1, or 83% of work being done by supercaps. (The actual result will probably be better, the ratios e.g. 1:1 at 0.33 F are just conservative notional numbers I made up for ease of explanation. Supercaps are more responsive than batteries, and the overall lowered battery stress should further reduce overall voltage sag, so the battery should see less than 50% of the peak current, but I don't have the equipments to proof this hypothesis.) So let's say our notional baseline is 0.33 F, now we just need to implement this theory. Designing a supercaps unit Here is our goal: 1. Supercaps with total capacity of 0.33 F or more, bigger the better. 2. Voltage should be ok for airsoft usage. (Say a fully charged 11.1 V LiPo is around 12.6 V) 3. Overall size to be small enough to fit in a typical buffer tube, with room for cable management for most cases. Smaller the better. 4. (Bonus feature) built-in safety to drain residue voltage when unplugged. 5. (Bonus feature) LED to indicate presence of voltage. The obvious (and probably the only viable) strategy is to use 3 no. of 5-6 V supercaps in series to give us a 15-18 V headroom for the maximum 12.6 V we are expecting from a fully charged 11.1. The first problem is selection of supercaps. The second problem is designing the whole package that can physically fit inside the buffer tube. Long story short, here is my blueprint: (Just connect the supercaps in series, and then parallel with the batteries, I don't have a drawing) The Eaton supercaps I am using are the highest capacity that can still fit inside a typical buffer tube and wiring, and with one of the better ESR in its class, and can theoretically suffer 115 A of thermals over 60 ms, and tested to MIL-STD 202G for shock and vibration. They are wired (I'm using some fancy SPEC 44 16 awg wires) to a connector that goes between the AEG wire and battery wire, so it is completely plug and play, and removable for safety and for storage. It can in fact be stacked up (if you have multiple units) to give extra performance. For extra safety I have included a bleeder resistor to discharge the residue voltage in maximum 3 hours after it is unplugged. Also for safety (and aesthetics) I added an LED for visual indication of voltage presence. I am tempted to call it the PASTA 1000 (Pseudotectonic Advanced SupercapaciTor Array 1000 mF) but any suggestions welcome. Here is what it looks like in real life: Testing AEG: Specna E-19, completely stock (which has an X-ASR mosfet preinstalled.) Battery: 9.6 V NiMH, fully charged, measuring about 11.32 V when testing. This is just a simple A/B test to see if the supercaps work at all. I will simply alternate between plugging and unplugging the supercaps several times, then take measurements with groups of 6 to 7 shots, until the data are fairly consistent and/or a pattern can be identified. The groups are measured in Audacity and averaged and rounded to nearest millisecond. Also note I am not testing with any magazine inserted because A. that is not going to make massive difference either way and B. it is one less variable to worry about and C. if a BB goes off it is going to affect my measurements with sound. The results: Stock setup (without supercaps), group #1: Trigger response: from trigger action = 83 ms, from motor spin-up = [data missing] ROF: ~17.17 RPS With supercaps, group #1: Trigger response: from trigger action = 81 ms, from motor spin-up = 57 ms ROF: ~17.48 RPS (+1.8%) Stock #2: (I stopped measuring full-auto because it is getting too loud for the neighbours) Trigger response: from trigger action = 96 ms, from motor spin-up = 64 ms With supercaps #2: Trigger response: from trigger action = 74 ms (-23%), from motor spin-up = 62 ms (-3%) Stock #3: Trigger response: from trigger action = 90 ms (+22%), from motor spin-up = 69 ms (+11%) With supercaps #3: Trigger reponse from trigger action = 71 ms (-21%), from motor spin-up = 62 ms (-10%) Stock #4: Trigger response: from trigger action = 84 ms (+18%), from motor spin-up = 68 ms (+10%) With supercaps #4: Trigger response: from trigger action = 76 ms (-10%), from motor spin-up = 62 ms (-9%) Stock #5: Trigger response: from trigger action = 80 ms (+5%), from motor spin-up = 69 ms (+11%) With supercaps #5: Trigger response: from trigger action = 75 ms (-6%), from motor spin-up = 61 ms (-12%) Analysis of results: Definitely a noticeable audio difference in trigger response. The only way to describe it is it sounds more "instant" and there is less of the spin-up whine. I am not sure why the groups vary quite a bit (maybe battery and/or gearbox settling) but I think it is fair to say the supercaps are making a difference. If we average the data after group #3, with supercaps, the overall trigger response is about 14% improved, with the cycling time from motor spin-up is remarkably consistent at about 11% improved. The shorter lag time from trigger action to motor spin-up can be explained by the voltage stability provided by the supercaps. Overall I didn't know what to expect but I would say 14% improved trigger response is pretty good. It is definitely not a negligible difference, and definitely noticeable when compared side by side. But going by feel alone, it definitely feels a bit more snappy. ROF is probably improved a little bit, but more testing needed. The installation: This may be the only draw back. To actually fit the unit inside the buffer tube along with the X-ASR is a massive hassle, which I have to actually remove the original long heat shrink around the three wires to get them to flex, and re-crimp two out of three of the spade connectors to the X-ASR because they were damaged by too much bending. And even when the supercaps are in, it is still very stuck and you need to wrestle the wires to get the battery on and close the butt plate. Although I have done it with the stock fully collapsed and if I install it with the stock a few positions out, it will be easy. Once it's on, it works. But it is definitely not ideal if you have any in-line mosfet like mine. However if you use a proper mosfet inside the gearbox and just have wires in the buffer tube, it should fit very easily, potentially upping the supercaps to 5 F ones for even better trigger response. There is no noticeable sparks or heat or anything when install and in use. It simply lights up when you plug it in and it just works with zero drama. Here is how it looks like installed, with a fully collapsed stock, and without the stock: (it barely fits) To uninstall: If the battery is disconnected with just the supercaps plugged into the gun, the gun will barely able to do one shot and the second shot will be stopped by the mosfet because the voltage will have dropped too low. This is just as expected and fairly consistent with the maths. The LED: When you unplug everything, the LED stays on but slowly dims down over the course of about an hour (just as designed). This shows the draining resistor and the LED are all working as intended. I could also feel zero heat from the resistor, which is great and again matching expectation. The LED still visibly faintly glows even at as low as 2 V so it works perfectly for its purpose as a voltage indicator. The red LED is pretty to look at, although I might change the colour to something like blue or green, because the red can be mistaken as error from the mosfet. I might also move it to the "top" side of the "plug". Conclusion of experiment: The prove of concept is a success. Most importantly there is certainly a performance benefit (14% in my test). All the maths check out. The unit is fully functional and fully match the expectations. It literally is plug-and-play. The installation can be a hassle for wire management but that is purely down to physical space and should not be a problem if you are not using in-line mosfet. Conclusions and speculations More testing is needed with other setups, if you would like one for testing I can make you a copy for a fee. The tech tree can potentially branch into AKs or other platforms or even external compartments, but I don't have any of these for development. Here is a summary of what this device can do. The biggest feature for me is safety, because when the LiPo (or any battery) is shielded from stress they are much less likely to puff up over time and starting a fire. Another key thing is of course the performance. It works very well in my very first little experiment. Electrically the overall voltage floor and current ceiling is improved. Adding supercaps is a bit like transitioning from NiMH to LiPo, but on steroids. There is also where the drawbacks are, because a mosfet is probably a good idea for such power, and if you want to collapse the butt stock you will need a more advanced mosfet that sits inside the gearbox rather than the buffer tube, for cable management reasons. (If you copy what I did you will risk breaking some wires) In terms of use cases, it will benefit NiMH the most because the performance is suddenly brought closer to that of LiPo because the performance gap is effectively closed, making NiMH a viable option again. In fact it makes NiMH better than LiPo because NiMH is much safer. This is also a must if you are chasing the state-of-the-art trigger response or battery efficiency in any build. It will also help with cold weather performance. And the best thing is, this is essentially a "free upgrade" because it is an entirely new component added to the system, it does not replace or compete with any existing parts, and it doesn't need any complicated installation, it is literally plug-and-play. The only downside for now is with wire management inside the buffer tube to make room for it. I am not sure if there is enough space for guns other than an M4 but maybe you can find creative ways to fit it e.g. longer wires. This can potentially benefit rental fleets because it is the easiest upgrade possible with zero overhead on tech, plus it makes your NiMH or LiPo inventory much safer and longer lasting. The savings in overhead for battery management could be worth the investment. And when a gun dies you can very easily transplant it to the replacement gun. In theory, you can actually stack multiple units for extra performance (the only problem is finding the space to put them). Conclusion is, and I am probably biased, supercaps could be the next best thing in airsoft. If the space problem can be resolved. Please do comment if you spot any issues in the theory or in the blueprint. Thank you for reading.

I’ve not had to claim for a lost rif yet, fingers crossed. But, they specifically state they are willing to carry RIF’s as long as they are taken to the post office and the staff are informed of what it is. Also, they should be sent via the 48hr service, although a few times the staff have recommended sending it via 24hr. The biggest hassle is explaining to the counter staff what an airsoft gun is. I usually say it’s similar to paintball. And when they ask the value, I’m always honest and pay the extra for the insurance cover. I have had an issue this week with a rif that was sent out via 24hr service on Monday, but didn’t arrive until today. So I’m potentially going to put a claim in for that. As far as Parcel Force not paying out on a claim for anything gun shaped, I can’t really comment. It’s definitely something worth looking into more. Is that confirmed or just hearsay?

Im led to believe that PF won’t cover anything gun shaped, even if you have paid for the cover. I’m sure I read it in their T&C’s

@kadamski I agree with more testing with LiPo. In actual fact, rather than me buying a bunch of LiPo and just simply measuring the trigger response in milliseconds, it would be more economical and informative for me to make another unit and simply send it to you to be tested with your LiPo and looking at the currents and voltages with the scope, if you don't mind the work and sharing the results of course. That will be more insightful than me measuring with Audacity. In fact the offer is up for anyone happy to test it, the condition is you need to have a scope to look at the currents and voltages (with LiPo) and share the results. (I will pay for postage and everything) -- And btw, I have uncovered the ancient texts from the "Airsoft Mechanics" website (2005) somehow stored on the Internet Archive. There is an article and some forum posts which some interesting discussions that somewhat mirror the discussions here... https://web.archive.org/web/20110511090621/http://www.airsoftmechanics.com:80/home/content/view/16/30/1/0/ https://web.archive.org/web/20090726234228/http://forums.airsoftmechanics.com/index.php?topic=78. (sadly only the first page was saved) In the article they say they tested with some salvaged PC motherboard "2200mFD 10V" capacitors which I think is a mislabelling on their part. Because a 2200 mF or 2.2 F 10 V capacitor would be firmly in the realm of a supercapacitor (rather than a normal capacitor) but I don't think you can find these on PC motherboards. Also looking at their small picture it seems to be rather a 2200 uF (which is 0.0022 F) capacitor which is more plausible coming from a PC motherboard. In their text they refer to "microfarads" instead of "millifarads". Although their caps were in the millifarad territory, which I don't think would work, somehow they say they have improved ROF by around 3% and an unknown amount of reduced voltage drop (I think their image is missing). I don't know what to make of this. Maybe it is down to the fact they were using some 8.4 NiCd on some TM motor. The forum did confirm the OP didn't improve trigger response, although another person say it did but with unknown capacitors. All without any actual numbers so I don't think it means anything other than confirming my maths about they need more farad than a few millifarads to actually improve trigger response. -- And for the sake of continuity here is the Reddit post for future reference: https://redd.it/18k2324 -- Also semi-relevant: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tKki89sq0XY

New pew day is always a good one, I see many more days like this in your future 'cos you know, everyone needs a sidearm because pistols are fun and then you'll need another pew for a backup and then what if you want a short pew for CQB or an SMG or maybe a shotgun (not even mentioned GBBRs yet either!) and then there's all the accessories ..... If you're anything like the rest of us you got an empty bank account for Xmas 😂 Oh and ref the above comment, a chrono is a worthwhile investment to keep an eye on your pews performance and an essential bit of kit if you are inclined to tinker.

Can you elaborate on this standard IR measurements. What you mean by using DC in 2 stages? In any case, the better chargers does show/measure the IR value. My standard method of measuring the IR value was to use 1Ohm load and check the voltage drop. The values displayed by my charger where roughly the same than the ones I got this way. I did explain that difference in the IR on the "cheap IR meter" page. What I did not specifically mention, though, is that when I use "IR" term, I mean "IR at some specific conditions". Like, when the battery is fully charged, when the load is 1 Ohm, when it is kept under load for 1s, when it is new, etc. Changing any of this, changes the IR (although not always in significant way). I might have explained that more clearly. My "C rating" post was in the "opinions" section. Probably that is why I was so short and not well described. Even I couldn't figure out what exact method I used to produce this table, which is bad. But my other page "Batteries review" describes this a little bit better. Anyways, the table has "Nominal Current", which means the current the C rating is allowing (I do understand this term might not be the best, but this is how I called it). So the Rhino battery is 2.2Ah and has 50C so the "nominal current" was assumed to be 110A. Of course measuring anything at that high current isn't easy so I did the IR measurements at lower currents but I expect the IR to only grow at higher currents, not drop, so this is still the "best case scenario". I also did not see a big variance in the IR (as the ratio of Vdrop and current) when the current was doubled for a given battery. So the calculations, for the sake of simplicity, are assuming the IR is similar for any current up to the "nominal current as specified by C rating". So, I calculated the IR by measuring Vdrop at say, 10A or 20A and then used that value to extrapolate the Vdrop that would happen if the battery was loaded with the "nominal" (again, as allowed by C rating) current. This was a quick test just to show that C-rating is just arbitrary and one can't, contrary to common myth, use this value to reason about the battery behaviour under load. The voltage the battery has under load is an important factor for me. So saying a battery is OK to be used with currents of 40C while at this current it drops its voltage by at least 50% is inappropriate in my opinion and that was all I wanted to show in this short article. Something went wrong with this paragraph as I can't understand the meaning of that. In any case, I can modulate how much current my load takes and obviously the bigger the current, the bigger the Vdrop. But some batteries will drop more voltage at the same current, some will drop more, depending on their IR. Yes, that was the exact conclusion of my article there - C rating does not reflect the current supply ability of the cells. IR is much better at that. But it is also not a constant value in the function of the load or time. The manufacturers could come up with some value that reflects the situation a little bit better, like "how much current can I roughly take from this battery for a period of 1s so that the voltage does not drop more than 10% at full capacity" or something like that. But nothing beats proper graphs showing the situation at different conditions. That is completely true. But writing such an article requires not only much more work but also usually involvement of some other people, like reviewers. Like, it's often hard to asses what is obvious and what is not, if you are the one who writes the article. Reviewer may easily spot that, though. That being said, this "C-rating" article was in the "opinions" section, the articles in "experiments" section are a little bit better at that. You know, I was not aiming at writing a scientific paper grade article and my time and resources where limited. I did do multiple runs and choose the most common/typical one for each configuration. To me, this change of current with different springs was expected - the more stiff spring creates higher resistance so the current must be bigger to start the motor. If you disconnect the motor from the gearbox and let it run freely, the "inrush" current is also much smaller. Now, I guess, the problem is again in the usage of "inrush current" term. My measuring equipment has a limited resolution/bandwidth so the actual, theoretical current peak may be the same for each setup (and it lasts some fractions of millisecond), but I can't measure that. Instead I can in practice see just the "average" current over some short periods and this is what I see on the scope. This is what I am in fact more interested in - how much current the motor takes in the first few tens of milliseconds after starting but before settling on a max speed. That takes many revolutions of the motor and this obviously is influenced by the resistance the gearbox and the spring gives. I also read many scientific papers. Of different quality. Creating a very good quality one is just *tons* of work. I did not aim at that. My aim was to do some measurements and describe them so that they are not lost. This was, in my eyes, much more than most people in airsoft do and that is why there are so many myths here. But I didn't care too much about someone being able to reproduce my experiment but I did want to describe my experiments properly and I did not succeed fully. Even if scientific method should aim for that, this is often not met in the officially published scientific papers so I feel excused for my results published on some random website All in all, the most important conclusion from the perspective of the original discussion here is that the trigger response and RoF in classic airsoft gun (without precocking, etc) depends highly on the capabilities of the battery. The biggest struggle for the battery is at the spinup of the motor as the current is very high and this may make the battery drop a lot of voltage. The smaller the voltage, the slower the motor reaches full speed and thus the worse trigger response. The max speed will also vary between batteries because the speed depends on the voltage and this depends on the voltage drop caused by the current. I can see how the supercapacitor could help the battery at the motor spinup time, when the current draw is the highest, providing the ESR of the capacitor is low enough for the current to be taken from the capacitor and not the battery itself in large portion. As was said here several times, this would have the biggest impact with NiMH batteries, and I expect it to be much smaller with beefy LiPO. I someone prefers using NiMH battery, such an approach with capacitors may give you some noticeable benefits. Would that help with LiPO? That would have to be checked. It is possible, though, especially with cheaper ones. Problem is - space. The batteries tend to be able to provide more current if they are physically bigger. So by the time you add the size of those caps to the size of the battery, you might get similar or better results by just switching to some bigger battery. Depending on the cost of the caps, it might also be cheaper. The caps, on the other hand, could be reused after switching the battery in very long games and may have a bigger lifetime. All in all, it would be good to measure if there is a noticable difference when using caps with LiPO batteries.

You could type that sentence into Google and I bet the first hit is the Hi-Capa hub. Get your Google on and if you can't find anything then the hive-mind is great to search out stuff that maybe isn't in the places you'd expect, but you'll get more out if you do some of the leg work yourself and you get to look at shiny stuff so win/win.

Will drop them and email and see if they have anything on the horizon. Looking at the price on the Fire-Support website, looks like the ICS might be a little over budget, especially considering I will need to get a few mags etc. but the burst fire might be quite nice to have… 🤔 I see. Good to hear they’re making a comeback, and hopefully their new stock will be of the same quality as the old, tried and tested units 🤞 I think this might be the way to go if I can’t justify stretching to the ICS - it’s within budget, so allows for a few mags and a couple new batteries, and maybe a few extra little niceties… Parts look to be pretty easy to get hold of like you say.

Ahoy and welcome back. 1. If you've been out for 7 years, I would have to wonder how likely it is that all 7 of you will stick with it the 2nd time round. So I'd agree with the suggestion to rent, at least for a game or two, to see if this is a renewal of your vows, or a quick booty call. Renting can look expensive, but when you consider that you'd be buying the BBs anyway, it's only actually £10-£15 for renting the gun, plus support for it, for the day. That's cheap compared to trying to sell on any RIF, or worse, an IF. 2. If you do want to buy, I agree with the list above. The cheapest M5xx M4 CYMAs have very cheap plastic bodies (although robust internals), anything above that from those brands will be fine. Baofengs UV-5Rs are decent but contain more functionality than needed. They can be programmed by hand, although it's somewhat time consuming. A £7 programming cable (eBay can provide) makes it easier, and allows downloading the same frequencies to multiple handsets. If you want to skip all that, they do a simpler range that's locked to the PMR frequencies. 3. Dunno, DPM is best P.

My son and I have played a few games now and I have a question on reloading. We are still using the hire guns so only have one magazine. Often mid game we run out and have to reload which involves pouring bb’s from a bag into the mag and always end up spilling them everywhere. there must be a better way. I’ve seen the dispensers but wonder if there’s anything else I’ve missed. thanks

If you want all metal, here's a cheap alternative hi capa that I've not heard anything about ... https://www.actionhobbies.co.uk/products/ec-5-1-hi-capa-gas-blowback-airsoft-pistol-black/ Absolutely no idea if they're any good, we need someone to be a guinea pig 😄