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that'll withstand anything an airsoft gun can throw at it, I wouldn't be surprised at all if the lens on that would withstand 1000fps

I would like rails on my 1st gun. I am going to get an mp40 in the future. Is there anything that you could recommend that is cheap (not taccy), reliable and has good reviews to get me started. I would really appreaciate it. Also what do you guys think of this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Olive-Green-TACTICAL-VEST-Combat-Assault-Airsoft-Army-Molle-Attachment-Rig-Top-/181248867418?pt=UK_Sporting_Goods_Sports_Clothing_LE&hash=item2a33463c5a is it good or can I get a better tac vest for the money? I am in the market for one and there are soo many to choose from.

EDIT: I am aware of the dupe post, when I hit submit it seems it has put 2 posts on and I apologize for that however I cannot seem to remove the other thread. Hello my name is Cropzy! I am new to Airsofting, well not new as in brand new as I have skirmished a few times but I am still fairly new. I understand the UKARA laws and gun handling and discipline too, I have been trained on 7.62 and .22 rifles when I was in the cadets and anyone who abuses RIF's is stupid and should learn the laws. I get my UKARA in around 20 days from now and I am in the market for an electric AEG or AEP, I have been looking at this http://www.patrolbase.co.uk/airsoft/asg-scorpion-vz61.htm#.U0Pg4fldU1Q for my 1st weapon, avoid/buy? Any reccomendations? I skirmish at a place called Halo Mill http://www.halomill.com/ which is in huddersfield, I have been 3 times and I plan to go much much more as it is local to me it is CQB so it is limited to 350 fps and semi auto. I have also been looking at chest rigs and masks and gloves, I have these in mind. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Paintball-Goggle-Proto-Switch-EL/dp/B0020R399A/ref=sr_1_19?s=sports&ie=UTF8&qid=1396950169&sr=1-19&keywords=airsoft http://www.patrolbase.co.uk/airsoft-rigs-plate-carriers-assault-vests/patrol-base-multicam-qr-rig.htm#.U0Phg_ldU1Q http://www.amazon.co.uk/Outdoor-Military-Tactical-Airsoft-Hunting/dp/B00DN0RSPE/ref=sr_1_514?s=sports&ie=UTF8&qid=1396951036&sr=1-514&keywords=airsoft I have boots and DPM's as I used to be in the cadets a few years ago. Is there any tips you guys could share and anything you could recommend as i want to take this hobby seriously and get a good collection and eventually travel over the UK going to different arenas. Anything would be grateful! Cropzy.

i havent played anything else on my playstation since i got it in september

Yeah, complete and utter tosh, anything less than 51% solid bright colour as laid down in the VCRA is a RIF, patterns are a no-no and subdued colours don't meet the requirements. That said, there's no law against you painting your gun as I assume you can prove you're a legit airsofter. The 18 year old rule applies only to SALE of RIFs, not manufacture.

Okay so my pistol doesn't have the little hole at the base of the handle to attach a lanyard to. I really don't want to get into drilling holes or fitting custom handles and stuff – but I need a lanyard as I've almost lost the thing twice now (although it's a great testament to the spirit of airsoft that it's been handed in on both occasions). Once I saw a guy who had a pistol lanyard that attached via a thick rubber grip that you put over the pistols handle, almost like a very wide rubber band – its clearly designed for pistols with no lanyard hole. He said he just found it online. Now I've searched and seacrhed but can't find anything like it. Does any know what I'm talking about, have seen one too, know what they are called, or better still have a link? M.

SooOOooOOooOOooOOooOOooooOOooooOOooOOOooOOOoOOooOooOOoO....... You're wondering why there are many "o"s in the first word. I can tell you that they are necessary. If you've ever used an AK iron sight, you'll notice that they are quite obstructive.... very obstructive, even in games. They don't let you see what's at the side, they don't let you see what's below, they only let you see what's in the tiny little gap between the leaf, and that's not very practical if anything. So in airsoft, if you decided to be a russian spetsnaz with a classic AK, you won't be able to see what you are hitting if the BB travels downwards or if the BB is swept away by the wind. And since the sights are so close together, one little movement will change the BBs trajectory by a million, bajillion miles. So to solve this annoying problem, basically put a red dot sight on it. Those curved lenses will keep a target on sight no matter what position your eye is in. But my problem is, I don't have a railed surface on my AK dust cover or handguard..... I have no way of mounting one securely onto the round, smooth, shmexy surface......................... or do I? So basically, bluetack and rubber bands. Bluetack helps to initially set the potion of the red dot sight and the rubber bands secure it fully in place, there is some wobble but not enough to move the red dot drastically away from my target, so i can live with it. Now, this solved all my problems after I zeroed it in but this created a new problem..... Since the red dot sight was mounted so high, the gun barrel was A LOT lower than the collimator, so when I was firing out the window.... Yes... I have pink BBs.....

Hi, So not to long ago I bought the G&D DTW Max 3 MK18 with the new updated ECU and MOSFET and thought I would do a little review of it, sorry to say I won't be posting any pictures at this time. So here goes for my first ever review of Anything lol. Upon opening the box your presented with a nice looking training weapon, it's not packaged up like your standard AEG's though which seemed careless to me everything was free to move about which thankfully enough the magazine lip was still intact. So moving on to getting the weapon out, feels nice in your hand and to be honest it's not much heavier than an AEG which I was expecting it to be. Has all the nice trade marks on the body and RIS and a functional bolt catch. Opening the weapon up was a task the rear pin is rather solid but that may just be on mine but I must say it's nice and easy to do your upgrades if you want NO messing around like an AEG which I Love..... Pull the charging handle and out comes the cylinder set then you can remove the hop chamber and barrel. Disappointingly from the word go I've had a number a faults which I have to rectify which is annoying, the standard cylinder that it came with has been smashing BBs inside the hop chamber so that was replaced and the Hop cushion was loose so making the BBs curve coming out of the barrel so that has had to be changed but that's for the better. Also the MK18 RIS that came with it was loose so that had to be fixed as well. Moving on to programming the ECU/MOSFET, this is an easy task to set out to do just press down the bolt catch and trigger and the ECU will beep once programming has activated then pull the trigger how many time you would like the burst to fire, so if you wanted 10 pull the trigger 9 times and on the 10th pull hold it down, EASY but no surprise the MOSFET doesn't program or mine doesn't at least. The front body pin had to be replaced as well as was very loose. BUT........ Moving on to actually firing it well I must say fun is not the word despite all the faults that soon made up for it all. great accuracy after upgrades and great power, the top gear sets itself to the same position after ever shot and they are 11.1v LiPo ready as are most. Pros : Easy to upgrade. Brilliant trigger response, floorless actually. PTW compatible from stock. Ideal for first training weapon. Cons : Part replacement a strong possibility. ECU/MOSFET doesn't work properly. Overall ratings out of 10. Value for money : 5/10 Usability : 7/10 Build quality : 4/10 Sorry if this is a poor review it's my first ever one. Thanks

Bollocks. I hope you realise, GK, that I am not casting aspersions on your character or commenting on you at all, but simply concisely expressing my opinion of the view you have put forward. Naturally I wish to avoid any handbags at dawn or any appearance of mod-bias, so by all means say whatever you like about my opinions (not me)... but really, this totally frustrates me. Clearly there is a lot more to airsoft than range and there is more to range than FPS but to say that when using a good hop unit 22FPS produces pointlessly minimal difference in range not only flies in the face of my, and many others', experience, but also physics. If we were somehow restricted to having to choose more muzzle energy or better hop then these arguments might hold water, but we're not and they don't. If a good hop will get a 328FPS BB the same distance as a mediocre hop gets a BB at 350FPS, then 350FPS through the 1st will go even further Where this falls down is not when comparing good hop units but shit ones, where the BB is so unstable in flight that the lift generated by backspin acts less in the vertical plane as it yaws to one side and the other (as the effect is to a large degree self-correcting in terms of absolute deviation from a birds eye view of a line between muzzle and target - off-centre negative pressure will obviously cause that side of the BB to lift more than the other, but it is a spheroid so it just rotates about the trajectory as a 2nd axis: it achieves equilibrium but now has angular momentum so goes too far the opposite way, whereupon uneven lift brings it back, then too far, etc.) - basically the more the force generated by backspin is not acting directly opposite to gravity, the less far the BB will go and, if this is bad enough, more muzzle energy will just make the BB hit the ground with more forward velocity - I believe this is how a dirty barrel reduces range. The plain fact is that even 1m of extra range is an advantage and if that is the only advantage you have, careful play can convert it into hitting your opponent before they hit you. However higher FPS creates 2 other advantages: 1) the BB takes less time to travel to the target... target@35m so 35m / 100m/s = 0.35s you don't have to be Usain Bolt to run very quickly over short distances... 100m in 10s would be damn good going for an average airsofter carrying gear & kit over mixed terrain, but 10m in 1s...? I'm unwell and in most circumstances i could beat that, but whatever, it makes the maths easier 10m/s 0.35s x 10m/s = 3.5m as the distance which your aim point has to lead in front of a running target 35m / 106.68m/s = 0.328s x 10m/s = 3.28m 22cm... pointlessly minimal, right? Wrong. A standard man sized target is 60cm wide and at 35m a practiced shooter firing an averagely decent AEG, like an OOTB Top Tech, snap shooting, is going to have a grouping on that target of about 40-45cm. 22cm puts some of those shots up to 12-14.5cm off a fat bastard in PLCE webbing... but of course that is not what having to lead a running target by 22cm less actually means, it's just a convenient thought experiment to demonstrate what that distance actually translates into in terms of pure static target shooting. In reality what leading a target by less in order to hit them actually means is that the target has not just less time to react but fewer choices for effective changes of direction. The truth however is that, with a good hop set up, 22FPS (in this muzzle energy band) will give about 6-8m more effective range, which isn't that much, but in many skirmish situations it's the difference between in cover and not, ie i can keep your head down with my 267x6.02mm TBB, Element M105 spring, Double O-ring piston head, gucci grease, O-ringed air nozzle and G&G green rubber, putting out high 340's on 0.2s, whereas with your G&G green rubber and hey have an H-nub at 325-30FPS you'll have to flank me and/or get a team mate with a hotter gun to pin me while you get closer, unless you can herd cats well enough to get enough players with mags in fresh/wound, and ready to rock on command (and get where the target is and what suppressing fire actually entails ) to overcome me with sheer volume of inaccurate lob shots... but of course I can just retreat a couple of meters and you have to start again, and all the while I, 1 shooter with a well set up AEG in decent cover, hold up half of your team, the rest of my team have a numerical advantage wherever they attack. But going back a paragraph and making point 2) I find what I miss most when some modification results in less FPS, for eg when I swapped the above TBB out for a shorter Systema MP5 BS 6.04mm barrel (it's all in the name lol - no actually it was a hair more accurate) only dropping about 5FPS, is the degree of flatness of trajectory. I find this most important when I'm shooting at people in cover, they may only be visible for a fraction of a second and pop up somewhere other than where I last saw them - anything which makes the BB fly more true to where your sighted viewpoint suggests it ought to will always make snap shooting more effective, but also when you're aiming at someone behind a small opening, if you can only get a BB that far on a parabola that ends with the BB coming down at 25-30° to the horizontal, or more, the width of the barrier has the effect of closing off the window and even if you get the shot through, the more it slows the steeper it falls and you know yourself, people often don't notice light hits low down.

yeah Baz, i mean for sure fb is a good way to make sure a lot of softers hear about it through friends like invites, but i just don't see anything in a 'secret fb group' staying secret for long - i mean fb isn't known for security... but hey perhaps having to adopt a cointelpro role could be part of the immersion for some ppl (would have been for me a few yrs ago but with the meds i'm on these days i'm lucky to remember the passwords to get into my own fucking stuff let alone complicated apps etc)

Yes I heard about not letting them run low. Do guns designed to be run on them I.e the Firehawk only have anything other than a ROF drop that let's you known it's at it's lowest point?

I was planning on but decided not to. The reason I was thinking about doing it was because the leather ends made doing anything fiddly very hard The stitching that came apart was actually along the side on the lower thumb from the wrist to the knuckle

I had the old Warrior Firestorm gloves and they were decent but I found the leather fingers mean doing anything near fiddly was hard and they seemed to require very long and skinny fingers to fit entirely correctly. Eventually the side stitching on one of the gloves gave out and I decided to switch the Mechanix. However, that was a while ago so will be interested to see how they've improved them

Whoever told you Flash Mags reduce the noise is talking utter rubbish, if anything they're worse. If you buy Lonex (or ASG rebranded) they will give about 2 years service until the ratchet spring fails. But then a replacement spring is a few pence to replace. If you however buy the cheap ones, you'll get a few months tops before the whole mechanism collapses, which is virtually irreparable. Had a few of each for a Dytac for woodland games, the Lonex were drastically better.

I own a TM one. Allow me to go off on one here: It's big. Really big. Pistol's quite large too (ba-dum-tiss). Only realy way to holster it is with a Viper belt mounted adjustable holster. it's as big as a desert eagle. If you have small hands, forget it. If you want a pistol that is 'fast' forget it. If you want to be able to transition to it quickly, forget it. (Admittedly I do alright with mine, but I've used it almost every skirmish for the last 3 and a half years, often as a primary.) If you have the suppressor attached whilst it's in the holster (and you'll want to) your draw length is from grabbing the pistol at your hip, the pistol isn't free and usable until you have lifted the pistol grip up to your armpit. Don't think you can get around this with a leg holster, then you'll never be able to kneel down again. There are a lot of negatives with this pistol. BUT. Jesus christ. If you want a pistol that you can rely on, buy one. and only one. You will only ever need one. This has to be the most robust anything ever. Mine had taken a beating over the years. Then I dropped it. Fell out of my holster. Lost. Gone. My favourite RIF lost. not to mention it was £200 worth of pistol. This happened in November 2012. Every game I played I looked around for it. Then. Mid August. Peeking out from under some leaves. NO. FREAKING. WAY. 9 bastard months. The coldest winter for years, plus all the usual yorkshire countryside weather. Plus the heat from summer. My MK23 had been out in it all. I would guess temperatures ranged from -5 to about 20 degrees over those months. I picked it up. looked over it and pulled the trigger. 'thumf'. sheeeiiiiiiit It still worked. Hadn't let out ANY guess. Aimed at a target 'thumf' again, straight as a die. better check it over before I do any damage to it. Popped the mag out, took out the takedown lever and slid the slide off. yup, frame looks fine. Check the upper. a slug, A mother fucking slug. right in the mechanism. and it wouldn't let me down. The pistol is awesome. It outranges most peoples AEGs all day erryday. It cannot be heard outside of 10m and is impossible to locate the exact direction of the shooting within hearing range. It's had more kills on its own that the entire rest of my arsenal, I'm convinced of it. Some days I'll take out £800 worth up Laylaxed up VSR and do better with the MK23. If I'm unsure about what to take to a game, I know I'll still have a good time if the MK23 is coming with me. oh, and just for balance, I DO also have the ASG one (same as KJ etcetcetc) and it's wank. Just utter crap. Yeah, I know what other people say about theirs, so maybe that shows how highly I hold this pistol. (and how terrified other players at my site are of it) and to clear up some misinformation in this thread so far: the TM MK23 and mags DO take Greengas, it will also take duster, 134a, 144a, red gas AND Guarder Black gas. I would imagine it handles propane fine, but I am NEVER putting that stink through my lovely pistol. Special forces don't use it 'a lot' it is too big and too heavy for a sidearm. and to agree with some other sentiments from the thread: If you use one, you cannot be cooler. They are stupid accurate. They are THE BEST sniper sidearm They are THE BEST woodland sidearm, regardless of playstyle They are (playstyle/game dependednt) one of the best CQB sidearms. BUYITBUYITBUYITBUYITBUYITBUYITBUYITBUYIT

If you want something fun, but not really skirmishable, try a Dan Wesson revolver. They're CO2 powered and chamber 6 shells which each take a single bb in the front, pretty much functions like the real thing. Nice build quality, good weight, feels solid as anything and looks very cool. Unfortunately don't own one myself but had a go at shooting downrange with the 4" version a couple weeks back with some metal bb's. From what I remember although you can get low power shells to make it useable on the field (standard ones shoot very hot) they don't use 6mm rounds, making sourcing plastic ammunition quite difficult. Edit: On the other hand though I may be completely wrong, unless wolf armouries are incorrect they do fire 6mm. http://www.wolfarmouries.co.uk/airsoft/bb/product.asp?page=product&id=17351

I got shot by two people at point blank with CO2 pistols into a neoprene mask (I burst through a door at Tac House: Spartan and they were aiming at head height, which I thought was a bit moody...). Both hits got me side by side on the top lip - more surprise than anything, but there was a red mark. I think you'd have to be quite close for a sniper BB to actually bruise through neoprene. Teeth wise, I think it may just be possible for a BB to get through the holes over the mouth, or not even penetrate but push the neoprene against teeth with just enough BB contact through the hole to cause a shattered tooth - but really it'd be a one in ten million or more coincidence. But yeah, mesh is the way forward for complete peace of mind. It's not sweaty to wear either...

That was my thinking, if the insurance wanted face protection I don't see why the site wouldn't just say mesh lowers- that way there's a much reduced chance of anything severe.

I know but a requirement for a neoprene mask is ridiculous, it's hardly going to protect anything

I think about 710FPS, Liam - just for range experiments. It will also be interesting to see how well the air seal and barrel width guestimates hold up at much higher pressure. The steel barrel base is an SVD only part - it replaces the aluminium stock part to allow more points of contact with the internal barrel for stability, but also it's stiffer and heavier so it ought to be more difficult for the spring shock to move. TBH, I doubt it can do anything noticeable that LX tape around the inner barrel can't, but for €16 it's worth a punt. I think I'll be going with a new quad stack 1000rnd AK mag again. My old one died at Skirmish - the lip snapped clean off as it was locking dboys... what can you say!?! Nobody else makes 'em though.

What FPS will an M200 give you? Also, what steel barrel? Nice, sounds like it's shooting really well. Makes me want to fix mine, but I've kinda given up on it. Been sat completely disassembled since before Christmas. Needs a new bolt housing before I can do anything with it at all.

Just be careful if you wrap the hop rubber in PTFE tape. 1. use silicone grease on the outside once wrapped (or CT-2 Teflon(PTFE) Silicone grease for best results*) 2. if you have to press very hard to make the barrel with rubber fitted slide into the hop unit, you risk the rubber jamming and the barrel pushing through inside it, which can damage the rubber. Ideally the barrel would have been cleaned with a spotless soft cloth using soapy water, rinsed thoroughly with water, air dried, and finally cleaned again with an alcohol swab, to remove every last trace of oil, grease, or muck, both inside and where the rubber fits outside as well. Once the alcohol has evaporated, using freshly washed hands, when you carefully fit a new rubber onto the barrel, there will be the maximum amount of friction between the two, which means that when it comes to wrapping the PTFE tape around the rubber, you will be able to use a fraction more (which when greased with CT-2 will still fit), resulting in the tightest air seal and most stable breach-end. In practice, the only area that you need to keep relatively grease free is the bump inside the rubber and a good slap of grease will get you past a multitude of sins. You can always give the barrel and hop a clean from inside with alcohol swabs later. AEG accuracy itself is always going to be more at the mercy of air movement than almost anything you can do anything about, but also, due to the way that AEG's are usually fired in skirmish, body movement. Are you sufficiently well practiced that, while moving under fire, you can bring your AEG up from a muzzle down carry position to your shoulder in a fluid movement which ends simultaneously with your dominant eye aiming over iron sights to a man sized target 35m away and with a trigger pull which puts a hit on that man sized target first time and pretty much every time (ie with no need to correct your aim before pulling the trigger, and no need to correct for wind unless conditions are blustery)? If you can then there may be something to be gained by homemade improvements, but first try an H-nub, a sticky hop rubber combined with heavier BB's, and a TBB. I would suggest that, unless your inner barrel is so loose that you can hear or see it wobble, there is so little to be potentially gained by fucking about with tape that dismantling your gun just to do it is asking for trouble. In some ways AEG's are pretty simple mechanisms, but the trouble is that the parts are manufactured within varying degrees of tolerance, which means that any particular gun which works, as it is, can go back together seemingly just as it was and not work, apparently for no earthly reason. Naturally you can just re-dismantle it and re-reassemble and often that will do the trick, but trust me, the more you fuck with it, the more likely it is that you will fuck something up... *CT-2 is brilliant grease for every part of any airsoft gun - it is without question the way forward.

Pff.. er.. not really thought about it. Rarely get the time to write up sales threads and with a big stack of stuff already waiting to go I tend to keep AR parts which might be useful for future builds. Not a rare component or anything, WGC have the G&P versions and hk-parts + scopeandlaser have the King Arms in stock.

Where will you get semi auto or auto weapons in the UK? All you can own in semi-auto is 22 rimfire. You can't own anything in 9mm as that is classed as a pistol round and the ammo is banned. You can own an AR but only single shot working off a manual bolt with no way of converting to semi-auto- so essentially a bolt action rifle based on an AR receiver. You could get hold of the 'Cadet' version of the SA80. They are single shot working off a manual bolt.