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Everything posted by Snakeeyes75
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The amount of times I've been asked if I have any BB's! plus the worst one I've found "Can you hold my gun" or "Can you pass me my gun" F*CK RIGHT OFF!!!!! If you turn up for a game with half a bottle of BB's then you're an idiot (Not the OP).
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Biro Mod is fine on the TM, The JG hop arm has a bit too much "slop". A good upgrade is the Type B lever (Dangerwerx or Airsoft pro) and ditch the crappy hop rubber, The TM ones are fab TBH, although I'm currently trying a PDI W hold one as I now have a TBB fitted. PTFE the cylinder head and hop rubber and you should see a 20 fps increase.
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I use a local Gun range (Ford rifle range), they charge me £10 for an hour. Only had one pointless visit when there was a guy with a .22 next to me, obivously I can't shoot infront of him so I was stuck at the 100 meter mark! I hit the target a few times when the BB bounced Hey!! A hit is a hit!
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ASPUK supplied BB King heavyweight white ammo - PROBLEMS
Snakeeyes75 replied to NickM's topic in General Discussion
BB Kings I believe are the same BB's as Nuprols. LOADS of people have reported issues with various sizes, I bought a bottle of .43's in Feb and had zero issues. The second bottle I bought about 3 months ago and although in my standard barrel Gspec I've had no issues I built a VSR for a buy with a 6.03 barrel and I had jams. Also, I get quite a few flyers! Most heavyweight users have switched to the Gunfire Rockets which seem to be as good but with zero jams!I'm currently playing with .4's and .43's. (Probably going to sell a stack on as I have a couple surplus bags. I'd like to try the .45's too!). -
Love it or hate it, there's a LOT of people that have zero clue how to record or even attach a Cam to a gun. Looks like he's making about £50 profit on top which to be fair is reasonable! He's including a 3D printed Rail mount which beats all the Electrical tape I keep seeing people using on these Mobius cams.
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If you want to just buy a Kydex holster, I strongly recommend http://www.phoenixtacticalgear.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=51 You can buy one of Tito's holsters via Airsoft world but It's actually cheaper to buy direct! I think they even do free Euro shipping now.
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Worth mentioning that I've cut the tip of the 1st finger and thumb off for ease of handling. I had to do a bit of girly sowing else they would have fallen apart.
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Everyone is different but I prefer Mechanix gloves! Others may say Oakleys but I like my Mechanix ones.
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what does your other half think of your airsofting??
Snakeeyes75 replied to shortman's topic in General Discussion
As with all other hobbies I've had/have, she fucking hates it! Money I could be spending on her/son! -
I noticed you run a Scar L, what weight do you use? as you say, the heavier the BB the slower the velocity and a .25 has up to now been what I use however I'd still prefer the accuracy over the range.
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I have a -1.25-5x scope which certainly helps with the longer shots and ammo conservation. I wasn't sure if .3's were just that but too much for the hop but I'll get hold of some .28's!
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Hi all, I realize this is a really noobie question but I thought I'd ask it anyway. (Not seen a post recently about it) What is the best choice of BB weight in an AEG? I have a Scar L so it's only firing at 300 fps. I usually use .25's but at range I find that the spread is a bit crap. Not sure what a standard Hop up will lift?
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Get yourself a small set of Park tools allen keys, they have a better "Square" cut than the cheaper ones. If you completely screw the head up then you can but from Halfords a small kit (About £20) which can remove them.
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I made these out of a pair of Nuprol Mesh goggles with a standard facemask grip tied to it. The gap was filled with some foam and then hot glued in place. (I also cut an inch off the bottom to allow better clearance when I look down). I started off with a pair of ESS advancer but sold them after about 2 months as I couldn't stop the fogging. You can remove the foam dust layer around the edges but I sweat a lot and I just couldn't get on with them. Recently I invested in a pair of Wiley X nerve dual layer goggles. They work much better but if it's a humid day then I don't even waste my time getting them out. I've never had a problem with mesh apart from them giving me a headache sometimes after a day looking through a sniper scope. To answer your question, I don't think you'd be able to attach them to the Advancers, the gap in the nose is really big and there's not a lot of plastic to tie them too.
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And once again... I'll leave this here:
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I use WE Green Gas. Works fine and produces about 320-340 fps. That's about the max you want to run it at though else you'll damage the nozzle (Which can be replaced). Always chrono before a game to check fps though
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If you have your UKARA number on the front then it shouldn't be a problem. I know a fair few people that use Taiwan gun and never had issues bringing it in the country.
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What the hell's been going on?? lol.. Mate, the TM is by far a better option than most clones FACT! I've now worked on several JG Bar 10's etc mainly because I have friends that have used my Gspec and want the same result but without paying out. There's tiny differences which can all be rectified but the TM is by far the easiest to work on! HOWEVER.... The Bar 10 is cheaper and by the end of the upgrade process you won't see any difference between the two guns. For 450 fps you'll get away with a spring/guide/sear upgrade and using the TM hop which is a very nice bit of kit you just need to swap the arm for a type B to lift heavier weight BB's (Or try the biro hop mod on the original arm). That'll give you a perfect working gun. (Also worth PTFE taping the hop rubber and cylinder head). The ONLY issue that puts people off is that the newer Gspecs come stock with a crimped cylinder which cannot be opened to remove the spring and there's no external giveaway that you're getting the old or the new! Easiest option is to put a new cylinder & head in BUT then you fall into the problem of needing a 90 degree trigger. This is where ASPUK came in handy as they're so much cheaper than Laylax. It's going to come down to how much you want to spend? Way I see it is that if you spend the money now you won't need to spend it later! You can swap springs out between games to achieve different power outputs. ALSO..... Don't waste your time with TBB! use .43's and you'll be hitting most things at 80+ meters anyway. The standard Gspec barrel is perfect, I thought of putting a longer barrel in but it's more to do with joule creep than accuracy.
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Both have the same internals, except for the longer barrel on the standard model. The Gspec comes with a foam filled silencer which works. Although it has a 330mm inner barrel you'll still hit pretty much everything you want. Also, you can drill out the end cap to install a longer one. I believe the standard version has a tapered outer barrel which makes spacing a pain. Most people go with the Gspec. Depends on what your build is going to include? If you want to stick with the stock hop unit but with a type B arm then the TM one is very good! If you plan to replace it then you could go with a clone for way less. Worth thinking about!
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brake disc cleaner on a bit of J cloth used in the cleaning rod. Try not to touch the hop rubber though
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And once again I'll say... Salomon's all the way! I have the Quest 4D. There's a new version out but I picked mine up on eBay new for a fair bit less: http://www.salomon.com/uk/product/quest-4d-2-gtx.html?article=370729
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Yeah, I reckon one or two wraps of tape would sort it perfectly!
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EDIT: Feel free to delete post, just realized I wasn't winding the mag on anywhere near enough!
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Well, the way I see it is the force of the air blast pushes the slide back, the vertical movement of the inner barrel in the outer one is due to it being a loose fit. So i'm thinking you'll still get that overall upward movement but at the moment of firing the barrel will be as stable as possible. EDIT, That makes no bloody sense lol. I think i'm trying to say that the tolerance is absorbed within the slide rather than the lift of the barrel
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I've often thought what may be a more efficient upgrade is to just pack/space the barrel, there's so much movement in the inner to outer barrel, making it firmer would surely keep groupings together?