Speedbird_666

G&G Combat Machines get used as rental guns on some sites, so they are fairly reliable. You are more likely to cause a failure after 'upgrading', especially if you try to do it yourself. Think of them as a Ford Fiesta. Functional, gets you from point A to B relatively efficiently for thousands of miles. But take a bog standard Fiesta, drop in a monster turbo with no other modifications whatsoever, and watch it go bang very quickly as you rag it around. Airsoft guns are the same, you need to take a balanced approach to upgrading. Want to upgrade the gearing? Well, you also need to consider battery and motor options. Can the Piston take the additional stress? How's the Angle of Engagement on the sector gear? Are the bushings robust enough (Combat Machines use sintered bushings which aren't great). Is the gearbox properly radiused? These are all variables that need to be considered. Best saved for your second or third gun. Buy a good starter gun, Combat Machines are fine but there are other comparable options, and use it for a good few skirmishes. Start then to think about what would improve your airsoft experience with the gun. Quite often, it's a case of consigning your first gun to backup status as when you total up the upgrades it's cheaper to just buy a better gun.

On your first RIF? good god no! leave it the fuck alone until it breaks. When you've got several guns - where you've even got a backup for your backup blaster, then sure, take your gun to bits and do whatever you want - because if you fuck up (and you will to start with) you can still go out and play. But if you only have one gun, and you are not experienced in teching AEGs in any way, leave it alone or pay a respected tech to do the work for you.

I like the cut of your jib good sir.

If your smart charger has a storage mode (around 3.85v per cell) , then I would recommend you use it to get the best life out of the LiPo. LiPo's do not like to be stored at full or near full capacity, or under 3.85v for any length of time. Dead or puffed cells can ruin your day. Over-discharging LiPo's kills them. Yes, you can 'jump start' them using a nimh charging mode for a few minutes to get them back up to the voltage for the LiPo charging modes to function (not recommended if you don't know what you are doing!) , but the pack will never work as well again after. Buy a cheap (7 quid) LiPo cell check from ebay, its an invaluable piece of kit to check the usage percentage and cell voltages.

What warranty do you get from a UK airsoft company...🤣 A cursory look at Negative Airsoft's videos will reveal the 'quality' of most UK Warranty 'repairs'. I would rather fend for myself and save the cash at the point of purchase.

I used to use Fairy Power Spray. Soak the plastic, leave it a couple hours (or even overnight), Krylon turns rubbery and can be scrubbed off with a washing up brush. A couple of notes: - I haven't stripped Krylon off in quite a few years, so I don't know if the Fairy Power Spray is the same formula now as it was in years past. But still it's worth a punt for a few quid from Wilko. - Generally, it doesn't attack the plastic, but you'll never get the colour back to deep-black - it'll be more charcoal/cloudy black if that makes sense? I wonder if car dashboard restorer would help. - It can take several soak-scrub-rinse cycles to strip it all off, so it's not a quick process.

Problem is, many UK retailers use the likes of TaiwanGun (AKA Krakman) in a wholesale capacity - UK prices will likely go up as well.

From Facebook:

I doubt that arm is even aluminium - try pot metal. I'm pretty sure that GFC (Specna) and S&T are direct clones of Ares. I would also guess that the Umarex ARX-160 Proline might use the same linkage (it's OEM'd by S&T and looks identical). You might have more luck tracking down an Ares/Umarex part. Neither S&T or Ares' website list the part under their spares, but perhaps dropping them an email (or in Ares' case a post their FB page) to ask availability might help. From the Ares G36 parts diagram:

I would swap out the piston and cylinder o-rings along with the hop rubber. Don't touch the spring until you can rule out air seal issues. Cheap replacements (under a tenner posted) Cylinder O-rings (19x1.5mm) x10 Piston O-rings (19x2.5mm) x10 Lonex 50deg Hop Rubber (Cheap and cheerful but works OK for me) or if you want to spend a little more on the hop rubber setup: Maple Leaf Macaron and Omega style Nub Your nozzle will likely not have an o-ring unless it was upgraded by the previous owner.

I haven't seen an AUG at a skirmish for at least 5 years, probably longer. Not seen an ASG Bren other than in the Zero One Showroom. A bit heavy and chunky for what it is but looks nice. The only G36's I see are generally rental guns, which is a shame. I think that they have a reputation as 'starter' guns, irrespective of manufacturer or internals. I would like to see a proper Tavor X95. Not the crappy cheapo version that Umarex kicks out.

Yeh - I miss that site, it was only 7min drive from my front door. I only ever played it when under GZ management though - but I had many good times there.

There's still a couple about if you know where to look.....😜

It should be great for nearly £70. Would a £9 CTR clone and a Dremel not achieve the same thing?

Have we done this one yet?: You won't find this gun in the UK! You will find it in Poland though.... TaiwanGun: Base gun £153 'A5' Stock £16 Knockoff CTR Stock £10 Kublai PMags £8 each Vert Grip £7 Total: £202 This guy wants £240 (No Offers! Collection only) - So those H&K stickers must be totally worth the extra £38...

Sweet mother of god...why? Why spray the upper black? Why fit all those 'upgrades' and most importantly, why expect someone to stump up SEVEN HUNDRED-odd quid for it!?! [/Rant Over] Funnily enough BigBirdAirsoft just done a review of a TM Scar NGRS on the Tube of You. Made a point of saying that it's amazing out of the box and the low FPS affects nothing at all. Then says he fitted a stronger spring and waffles on about fitting a Gate Titan. Then says he fitted a Prommy nozzle and Edgi barrel and a R-Hop. The gun shoots amazing apparently, but had a Semi lockup so bad that full-auto wouldn't clear it and the gun needed taking apart to release the ARL. I like his reviews normally but I couldn't wrap my head around that one.

Personally, I couldn't care less how you spend your money. If you want to be decked out in gucci RS kit and happy to drop a grand or two 'upgrading' your tupperware death cannon - kudos. I've got a decent job and could head down that path if I wanted to, but it's just not for me - my £150 guns get the job done just fine. I'd rather spend the money on hookers and cocaine. I do find it funny (and this is not aimed at you) that there are a number of people with 'all the gear but no idea'. Happy to flex the credit card on 'upgrades', but making the square root of fuck all difference when it comes to in-game performance, indeed more often than not making things worse. Don't worry, my jokes used to be aimed at PTW users back in the day, when Systemas were de rigueur and cost far more than a TM. The 'bestest gun evar' a guy at a skirmish site tried to convince me once. Of course he had to send it off to Tackleberry and spent another £500 on 'upgrades' just to make the thing work properly.

No no, I actually meant TM NGRS/MWS users. Take from that what you will. It was a slightly tongue-in-cheek joke ribbing those who have a penchant for buying expensive TM guns and spending lots more money on upgrades. No malice or jealously - I just find it funny. Airsoft, after all, is just LARPing with toy guns. But no matter how much you spend, it's still only a toy.

I would say that this is a classic case of upgrade-itus - pouring large sums of money into pointless shiny things....just because. (I shall refrain from passing comments about TM users in general 😜) I would also say that the the crack was because the seller fitted a 7.62 Rail onto a 5.56 pattern rifle. The 7.62 rail mount has an extra 'lump' on the bottom which would clear the front of a 7.62 pattern receiver upon opening, but perhaps not so on a 5.56. Madbull 5.56 rail mount: Madbull 7.62 rail mount: Pics from Evike & Madbull websites respectively.

Random question:- how long is the Safety Brief? Asking for a friend....😜

Gotta say, I was pleasantly surprised with the 16awg Alpha Wire that I got from @ak2m4. Easy to work enough to work with in my Cyma AK. I'll pick up more of it at some point for when I need to do some work on my other guns.

Hmm, not sure what's going on there. Mine uses a 2 or 2.5mm allen I think. Is there even a grub screw in there at all? Might be worth taking the motor cage apart and check what's in there. I think that a proper re-wire will help - I tested the high-speed motor on the stock wiring loom, before changing to 16 gauge Alpha Wire & Gate ASR (place holder MOSFET until I get a Warfet).

Is the silver disc still behind the motor? If it's missing, the grub screw will be bearing down on the motor stator hole and not applying pressure to the back of the motor itself.

I know. I should have made my mild sarcasm a little clearer. But it's been done to death now - he's acting within the forum rules, and the Mods have tacitly acknowledged this. Rules have been 'tweaked' to reduce the number of sale items due to the feedback on this very thread. Until the Mods decide to implement a minimum (non-classifieds) post count like Arnies (which is a bad idea IMO), he's here for the long run. No point going over the topic ad-nauseam.