Speedbird_666

The 2.0s have only been on the (UK) market for the last month or two so it's still early days. Supposedly Specna changed the gearbox OEM at some point during the V1 production run (for the better - allegedly). I know there's a lot of V1 users that say their gun was great out of the box. Mine, and many others were not. QC has been a persistent issue with Specna since the Edge series was released, but reports indicate that this has been ameliorated to a large degree. The 2.0s come with the Gate Aster unit and some minor internal component tweaks, and on paper represent stonkingly good value for money, especially when compared to older, more established manufacturers (looking at you G&G). But circling back around to your original question, the M4s in the respective Edge Series (V1 and 2.0) are the same internally, but with different rails, trademarks and colour options. Basically, if you are set on an Edge, pick the one that you like the look of the most.

Hate to break it to you, but you are not guaranteed no fogging even with high end Paintball masks. I run with a paintball mask now playing airsoft, and have also owned many sets from various manufacturers during my paintballing days. Whilst you are less likely to get fogging issues, on a hot, humid day fogging and condensation can still happen - especially when you are sweating. I came up with a fan system for my goggles in the end to suck in cooler ambient air to displace the hot humid air within the goggles.

Yeh - I know right? Whilst I'm pleased with this little project from a technical and learning perspective, I've realised pretty quickly that just because you can do something, it doesn't mean you should... 🤪 Rest assured all stock parts have now been re-fitted. That really does look like a very cool project - how did you go about printing the shell? It looks almost like SLS?

Shall we mention Edge v1 and v2.0? 😉

Ok, last of the Speedsoft content - moving on to other projects now. Made a hand guard using 40mm PVC pipe that acts as a sleeve over the stock outer barrel. Barrel nut epoxied to one end, and a cap that is a tight interference fit on the outer barrel epoxied to the other. Very solid given the soft plastic of the pipe, no flex or wobble. Perfectly usable I reckon, assuming you don't plan to use it as a club and wrap it around a tree. I call it - the fleshlight....😉 (Note - no guns were harmed in the making of this project, all bits will be reverted back to stock shortly.)

Stick the nub on the wrench in the hole on the barrel nut and rotate: Yes - if you read the text above too quickly you come up with a very different sentence....😜 Alternative methods (for bodging it and probably inflicting some kind of damage): - Vice grips - Stick the nut in a bench vice and rotate the receiver - A drill bit of identical size to the hole, into the hole, and try twisting it off by hand

I reckon a standard armorers wrench would do it.

Indeed Herr Hamster. My overall (long term) aim is to produce the most minimal viable gun that will work around a V2 gearbox. That will mean a receiver of my own design, but I'm not skilled enough to model such a thing yet...however these smaller projects have helped immeasurably. It's unlikely that I would ever rock up at a field with such a setup myself though, because that would just look stupid - fat middle aged guy thinking he's a speedsofter? Nah. However my middle son (13) loves playing airsoft, but has no real interest in realistic guns/RIFs (he sees the hobby almost as big-kids extension of Nerf), so he has no problems with rolling with such a gun if it's light and easy to shoot.

Yep, Fusion 360 models the threads. I send to model to Cura, which in turn slices it and creates the GCode for the printer.

Modeled in Fusion 360 (M32x1.5) and printed them - they needed to be scaled up by 2.5% to account for slight inaccuracies in the 3d Printing process. So I needed to remove the proprietary barrel nut for the stock G&G front end - so had to design/print a tool to do it: I knocked up a 'proper' barrel nut to check barrel fitting - y'know I think speedsofters have got the right idea when it comes to ergonomics, this thing feels super light, balanced and point-able: (I know, I know, haters gonna hate - this is an exercise in curiosity more than anything else) I intend to make a whole front-end using a ~40mm Carbon tube epoxied onto a 3D printed barrel nut, a printed outer barrel stub at the receiver end, a printed barrel stabiliser cap at the front, with the inner barrel free-floating in between.

15deg stock adapter (apologies for those easily triggered by Speedsoft-type stuff 😜😞 Took a few attempts to get the scaling right, but I got AEG barrel nut threads nailed:

All AEG AUGs use a V3 gearbox, with a few extra electrical gubbins for the trigger. Focus on 'V3 gearbox upgrades', rather than just 'AUG upgrades'. There are plenty of other guns that use the same gearbox, namely all AKs variants, G36s, CZ Bren, MP5K etc. so there are plenty of upgrade videos and tutorials about. Personally, like all my guns, I would start with a High-torque motor (SHS/Rocket etc.) and see how it performs. Quite often even mediocre guns feel 100% better with just a simple motor change. But if you are new, and this is your only gun, leave the gearbox well alone until you've got a backup gun or two.

Looks like the LMGs come with G&G's much maligned ETU. (pic from Evike's review video) Pull out the MOSFET, bin it, and plug in a Perun ETU++ instead. Just need to take the buffer tube off to fit it 'plug and play', no gearbox-opening shenanigans required. Then enjoy all sorts of programming goodness.

I'm modelling a reasonably accurate V2 GB (+/- 0.1mm) in F360 to use for an own-design receiver project. Took a few 1mm test prints to get the footprint measurements dialed-in Progress so far - I won't need all the details (not bothering with bushings and screw holes etc.) but I will model the trigger hole, rear pin hole, grip frame slot/holes, and the selector area on the other side.

That's what I'm hoping. I'm bored of actually playing airsoft - I have more fun tinkering with guns etc these days. But I have two teenage sons who love playing, so I want to mix things up a bit and try new things.

Yeh - it's a CQB monthly pistol/shottie only night. I don't need AEG range/accuracy, just need to chuck BB's in the general direction I'm pointing.

Right-o, some polarising reports there. I think I'll take a punt on a CYMA springer. It's more for curiosity really. If I like playing with a shotgun I'll consider something more elaborate (i.e. TM Breacher) in future.

Thanks - I'll have a look into those. Interesting - I've not heard of that as an issue before.

In the 16-odd years I've been playing airsoft, I've never actually played with a shotgun before. However a site within reasonable travel distance is doing monthly pistol/shotgun evenings and I quite fancy a go. Don't want to spend too much, so was looking at CYMA tri-shot springers (CM.350 et al) as a starting point. Are they any good? Otherwise, what am bestest cheap (sub-£100) shotties?

How do they compare to the likes of SHS/Rocket etc Mr Borg? I see they work out about £5-7 cheaper than UK prices with 10 day shipping. I might take a punt on one.

Result. I would be inclined to reduce the size of your powerbank to drop some weight - it's a bit overkill for two tiny fans pulling ~0.06A each. You would be looking at ~120mAh, which would take even a cheap £2 Poundland 2200mAh Powerbank 16 or so hours to discharge.

Welcome to the forum! Unfortunately you picked a bit of a shit charger - sorry. You won't find anyone recommending a 'dumb' charger such as the A450 on here. A charger with an LCD screen will tell you the cell voltage(s) of your packs and will help you with troubleshooting battery issues. If you can send the charger back - do it. You can buy one of these for a few quid more (assuming you paid ~£30 retail) and it is an excellent bit of kit.

Mk2 Drop stock with integrated buffer tube threads:

Find a magnet and attach it a rod or something with some gaffer tape. Saved me a couple times when a spring or screw dropped into the murky depths of my shed floor. Otherwise, buy a mixed box set of grub screws from Amazon or Ebay. I bet it'll be something like an M2 or M2.5.