Speedbird_666
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Everything posted by Speedbird_666
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This advert is COMPLETED!
- For sale
- Used
Bought as project gun - I've had my fun with it but no longer need it. Please read the entire description. Classic Army G36K - Structurally sound with all external parts in place and in good condition. The gun has the usual small scuffs and scratches from previous use. Fitted with the following: - Lonex Hop Unit - Lonex 50deg Hop Rubber - JG/Golden Eagle Franken-Gearbox, fitted as it was cheaper than buying Classic Army OEM parts for a knackered stock gearbox. See more info below - Cyma Neo Hi Torque motor (which is slow as molasses and was only a place-holder but I never got round to replacing it.) - Wired to deans The Franken-Gearbox: - JG/Golden Eagle based QD Spring gearbox, with the shell, trigger, and all G36-specific parts required to fit in the gun body - ZCI Upgraded QD Spring Guide - SHS/Rocket 13:1 Gears - *I think* Gearparts POM Piston head and Lightweight Piston - I had a few projects on the go at the same time so can't remember the exact make. - Pretty sure I switched-out the bushings as well. Also Comes with: - 1x HiCap magazine - A bunch of Classic Army and JG spares - CA GB shell, JG gears, CA motor and G36-specific gearbox shell parts (selector, body mounting brackets etc) Issues: - The gun cycles OK - but is really slow with the Cyma motor (around 10bps on 7.4v LiPo @340FPS when last chrono'd) - It needs the shimming checked as it sounds a bit laboured - A couple of handguard rails are included, but the screw heads were rounded-out by the previous owner and will need replacing. - It could do with a new magwell pin - it's a threaded 2-piece design and the threading isn't in the best shape. It works, with a good tight fit but I would try to fit a JG one-piece through-pin instead. Just my OCD. - It generally need to be tuned and checked over to get the best out of the fitted parts. This is a boneyard gun - Caveat Emptor applies as there may be other issues that I'm not aware of. This sale is for someone who wants a gun to tinker with. Usual sales rules apply - Over 18 - UKARA/Defence required yadda yadda yadda... No dibs/holding. Paypal only. Price includes PF48 postage and PayPal fees. Collection is available from Christchurch, Dorset for a tenner less.£75
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Or you could just but a cheap RC Watt meter - It's what we RC Flyers use to test the power of motors before we commit to chucking our models in the air. And some of our motors are absolute monsters compared to the tiddly little things in the grips of Airsoft guns.
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Gotta admit - it irked me when new-ish members with ~100 posts has a higher rank than me - because they spammed in the first few weeks of the new system. I haven't hit the 1k mark yet largely because I try to only post if I have something worth saying. I stay well out of the new members section where there seems to be a deluge of largely useless (and in my cynical mind somewhat insincere) 'welcome to the forums' posts by those hell bent to artificially 'up' their post count and ranking. Hey-ho. It is what it is I suppose.
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Ok, I've thrown a few on to test (note i didn't fit motors): ICS MTR Grip - horrible fit - note the gap at the front and the angle even when tightened: G&G Ergo grip (nearly identical to @Rogerborg's Aliexpress offering) - perfect fit with excellent grip/gearbox spacing, this was what was on the gun up till now. Ares Ameoba Aliexpress knockoff - good fit, but will need a bit of spacing between the grip and gearbox (I use 3D printed shims). ICS UK1 Grip - better than the MTR, but will need some dremelling at the front to get a flush fit with the rear receiver. Hope that helps. I would go for what Mr Borg suggested personally. Comfy enough and should be an easy drop-in fit.
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The EBB lower gearboxes have different geometry to the non-ebb models. You also can't mix and match the Non-EBB and EBB uppers and lowers. I have an ICS EBB model grip (UK1), and it will not fit any ICS Non-EBB models (of which I have three). I have a Specna Edge too. I'll try and fit the MTR grip later. It'll be interesting to see if it fits.
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Not quite as simple as that with ICS. You might find that the motor angle is off too with that particular grip. Ask me how I know... (The smorgasbord includes G&P, G&G, King Arms, Lonex, E&C and ICS) The above is me trying to find a grip to fit on to an ICS CXP-15 that has an MTS grip out of the box. Not even ICS' own newer stuff works (bottom,second from left) with the non-blowback ICS models which this grip was designed for. The motor angle inside the grip is very slightly different and specific to ICS - you could kill a (quite cheaply made) Specna Edge Bevel gear/pinion in no time at all. You might be able to dremel the shit out of the insides to get things aligned better, but is it worth it? No. The grip's crap anyway. And I'm stuck with it. But the rest of the gun is awesome for my CQB shenanigans so it's a small compromise really. OP - avoid that grip (or any ICS ones for that matter) and save yourself a lot of pain.
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Wait whuuut? - you cracked open the gearbox to change the nozzle on (I'm assuming) a brand new gun? Do you mean the hop up rubber/nub? Whilst a Combat Machine's barrel is made from what appears to be compressed tin foil and should be amongst the first things replaced, the stock hop unit/rubber work just fine out of the box. But horses for course n'all that. Anyway... If you are *just* above your site's limit (say, 10fps or so), load some hi-caps up and put a thousands BB's down range. The spring should settle by itself. If you are well above the limit (20fps), then you'll need to either cut/replace the spring - assuming you don't want to revert to stock components. Oh, and welcome to the forum....🙂
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A drop of solder in the bend can help with that.
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I can see why people are worried. With firearms laws under scrutiny after that c**t with a shotgun last month, this is precisely the publicity UK airsoft doesn't need right now to stay under the radar. Joe public: Why do they need realistic guns to shoot plastic balls at each other? Guns are bad! etc etc.
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Jesus H Christ. One has to wonder just how did they shift that many RIF boxes unnoticed? This surely must of been a targeted attack. I just hope there isn't too much blowback.
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Good point. It would be interesting to find out some exact numbers/models from Specna.
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I think the question got asked on their FB page, they say they are looking into it.
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I don't want to be a doom-sayer, but 2000 RIFs!?! This puts the whole hobby at risk.
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That's a lot of guns to go walkies, especially here in the UK. I expect the police head-shed will have kittens and I'll be amazed if the press doesn't catch wind of this. Daily Mail Headline: 'thousands of lethal replicas stolen' etc etc....... So if you see a bunch of cheap Specnas up for sale on the various forums/groups, you'll know why.
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I don't normally recommend 'upgrades', but for the v1.0 Raider I would say inner barrel (stock one is like compressed tinfoil) and a Hi-Torque motor. Nothing else. Not a single penny more unless the stock hop rubber is worn. Then replace that. Otherwise leave it. Then: Use it. Abuse it. Break it. Bin it. I tend to think of the 'old skool' Combat Machines as the Bic Biros of the airsoft world. Bloody handy when they are working good, but not worth trying to fix up when they shit themselves. You will see a slight increase in accuracy with the barrel. The Hi-Torque will largely mitigate the issues with semi-auto lockup (what Fatboy is alluding to) and will give semi auto good trigger response even with lower voltage batteries. And for the front sight....😜:
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I dub thee: The WWSD - 'What Would Speedbird Do' Blaster. If you know, you know. The aim was a super light weight gun for all-round use. It's an unused ICS Sportline I have knocking about (hence shit camo job). It was a light weight plastic gun anyway, but had a wobbly/bendy front end that I was never happy with. So - 50mm Carbon tube hand guard. 3D printed barrel nut, hand guard end cap and barrel stub. ICS Stubby stock. No Outer barrel - the inner barrel is supported by the hand guard end cap. I replaced the RIS receiver rail with a 3D Printed blanking plate. I also added a flared magwell, 3D printed from a thingiverse file that I modded to better fit. No sights (never use 'em anyway - hi-cap 'spray and pray' for the win). It's my 40th Birthday in a couple weeks. Missus is buying me a nice Sparmax airbrush/compressor set, so the receiver will get some kind of 'interesting' paint job. I know, haters gonna hate. But I like it, and that's all that matters to me...😉
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Looks really nice. It's refreshing to have something new on the market that isn't an M4. The only tiny critism is the markings on the mock bolt. I'm not sure what 'Col 5.56' is supposed to mean, but it should be 'Cal 5.56' But that's me being super anal.
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Painting a RIF with the 'dragged through shit just got back from the sandbox' look is hardly a dark art . Plenty of tutorials on the Tube of You and you can get camo spray cheap enough from Halfords. But the best painter I've come across is @GearTech: https://geartechcustompaint.com/ He posts his work on these very forums:
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What about the Bunker at Portsmouth? I keep meaning to go but life always seems to get in the way at the moment.
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You mean something like this:
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Double Eagle M904g – Aka the Original Q Honey Badger
Speedbird_666 replied to mightyjebus's topic in AEG/GBBR Reviews
Yes please mate. I had no idea this was on the horizon as an airsoft product. I love the styling of B&T guns, and this piques my interests. I'd be all over it if it had the plastic side-folder stock instead of the collapsible. -
Having completely re-wired a friends ICS L85 recently, I can say the wiring's pretty simple really. If you bridge the two spring-loaded plungers in the upper receiver, the gearbox will cycle. The trigger switch in the lower only serves to bridge those plungers with a disconnector attached for semi auto. Looking at the AB++ wiring diagram from Perun, I would attach both red wires (from the mosfet and to the motor) onto one of the plunger bars - either splice the wire and use the stock connector, or solder both wires directly. I would then attach the signal wire to the other plunger. Something like this: You should end up with wiring in line with perun's recommended setup
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Looking for some Lipo charger buying direction
Speedbird_666 replied to TommoThomson's topic in General Help
Agreed. That, or the slightly cheaper SkyRC S65. Imax B6's have had their day. Genuine ones aren't exactly great value for money anymore, and unless you buy from an authorised dealer, there's a good chance it's going to be fake. And the balance logic is slow and outdated compared to newer designs. -
Did someone mention dropstocks?....😜 As a paintball goggle wearer myself, half my guns now sport drop-stock adapters that I designed and 3D printed. I know some people hate 'em, but they are very practical. The SSG1 is pretty expensive for what you get and it's very much intended for Speedsoft/CQB play. That's not to say it won't perform just fine at woodland distances, but a DMR platform it is not.
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I had to ring them when I had an issue with an order, my email went unnoticed. I can't say it was a particularly satisfactory outcome as it would of involved sending a RIF back to them for 'inspection' (despite numerous photos and info I sent them) rather than just send me the replacement part that they had in stock. It was easier to just order a replacement instead and be done with it.
