Speedbird_666

@karlos103 Judging by your posts so far, you seem to have developed a classic case of 'upgrade-itus'. It's a terrible affliction, most contagious within the Airsoft community with a 75% infection rate between players (you need 'X' for that gun, mate!), an 85% rate within Airsoft shops (let me sell you this shiny thing - it'll double your range!), and most horribly, a 99.95% rate within the Tokyo Marui owners community (because TM is perfection out the box! Just needs a few upgrades...!) . Symptoms include wanting to 'upgrading' their gun without shooting it, spending more than the value of the gun in their quest to make it shoot amazeballs, a penchant to tell everyone how their 'upgrades' are the bestest and telling all others should be fitting the same to their guns. Infection long term generally ends with various degrees of disappointment (75% of cases), frustration (90% of cases), a drained bank balance (100% of cases) and questioning whether it was all worth it in the end to shoot tiny plastic balls at each other (80%). A very small number cases (<5%) report that the player reaches a type of 'Airsoft Nirvana', whereby all their guns work beautifully, reliably and the player moves past the need to acquire anything further. No one within the TM-owning community has been identified as reaching this state ...😜 Jokes aside: Cracking open gearboxes, replacing electronics, new barrels and hop units - upgrading everything without a frame of reference (i.e. playing experience with your gun in 'stock' configuration) could very well lead to disaster. Many upgrades could be described at best as 'side-grades', and there are a number that can be detrimental to performance. You won't know this if you've replaced a sizeable chunk of the stock parts on your gun without using it for a good few playing days first. Go out and play a couple games with what you have already - see how it works, where it falls short compared to other players, and what you want to improve. Upgrade ONE THING at a time, test it thoroughly at your next game day, and see if it actually improves anything. Oh, and circling back to your original question, G&G hop units (both dial and rotary) work just fine. No need to replace until broken. But we all know you'll want to replace it anyway.

Quoted for Truth @alxndrhll That's the best looking AK I've seen in a while. Well done... 👍 I bet it weighs a tonne though for such a little gun...😜

Installing a Hybrid involves opening the Gearbox, the ETU is plug and play and gives you a lot of the functionality. It's actually a bit smaller than the stock ETU Mosfet. If battery space is a concern, stick a PTS EPS stock it. Tonnes of room for various batteries and the Mosfet unit.

The only upgrade I would put on the gun (you've already changed the barrel) is a Perun ETU++, as the stock one (depending on version) can be finicky with batteries. Otherwise, leave it well alone and get out and play instead.

After having an epoxy joint fail on one my prints (admittedly it was cheap unbranded stuff), and some unreliable self-tapping holes, I've just ordered a bunch of M3 heat-set nuts to test out for future projects from Aliexpress. There's someone on eBay (UK) who happens to make a setting tool for these that fit my particular soldering Iron.

Very nice mate. Will you be SLS printing the Mag adapter at some point?

There'll be a rain cover. This case is just for testing airflow, internal ducting and nozzle positioning. I'm already working on a redesigned version with a bunch of changes.

First third prototype casing assembled. Not had chance to wire it up yet to test the fan's performance. If airflow is sufficient (it might not be - it's a 5V 4020 fan that was sent to me in error, I could end up with a 12v 50mm fan yet), I'll integrate a battery and add loops to the main body for bungee retention to the Arc rail.

That looks really good on there. Do you know what material it's printed in? Looks like PLA? Moving on to my next project - Helmet-mounted fan. Basically my knockoff version of the ExFog. I'll be printing this prototype tomorrow for fan fitment/airflow testing - If it works I'll add an integrated battery box and some cosmetic updates to 'pretty' the thing up for the final design.

lol. He posted it yesterday too...😉

It's in his post: I'm guessing he means these guys: https://airsoftdirect.uk.com/

Interesting title to his Advert. Again, I wonder if some of these sellers take a punt on the fact that kiddies without a defence are willing to pay a premium to bypass the whole 'three games' thing.

Personally, I'd rather buy a new one from a reputable vendor for the same price than trust my dosh to some dude that registered on the forums 12 hours ago. On the other hand, I have a valid defence, which i would assume is something this seller isn't too worried about. That reminds me. I really want a TM Gen 4 Glock. I must get round to ordering one.

This video from the timestamp 4:25 covers it: I only ever really use Hobbyking Turnigy LiPos, but they don't have any 2s LiPo stocked in the UK Warehouse. I've tried Vapextech, but they just don't hold the voltage under load compared to Turnigy. Giant Power is pretty good from what I've heard - I know a few RC guys that use Giant Power packs on model aircraft. They've been around for a while now, I would be reasonably confident that they can get the job done for Airsoft guns. I reckon this one will fit the gun, but I would get a ruler out and double check the stock internal measurements before ordering. The S65 is still a really good charger for the money. Whilst there are some fancier looking units (and complete overkill for Airsoft), it's still a solid choice.

It's Classic Army, the gun come with Deans as standard with a Deans to Mini Tamiya adapter. I would be using a 2S 1200-1300 mAh battery - room is limited in the stock due to the metal slider bar assembly. 3S is fine apparently for the gearbox, but I have heard of Classic Army Mosfets blowing quite quickly, so I would keep the overall wattage down.

I love sewing machines. I have two down my shed. I use them to sew things - like ripped school uniform for the kids. I've been learning to make kites (another hobby) with ripstop nylon. Planning to make a 6ft Rokkaku kite and stick a camera on it... Oh....you mean AEGs...my bad....

Yes, you can use that stock, but the G&G stock you linked to has a smaller battery storage area (read:zero) compared to your King Arms. I would recommend the PTS EPS stock if battery storage and easy access are top requirements. They are more expensive, but the quality is outstanding and they hold their resale value if you choose to sell it on at a later date.

Yeah, I know it's diminishing returns from a pure strength perspective, but being solid plastic adds some weight/heft and allows arbitrary drilling without crushing/smashing the Infil. And PLA+ is cheap.

I don't just need a bigger window. I need a set of steps up and down. 😲

Like fuck it will. Wall thickness of the Specna 'Quality' body is really thin, even for Airsoft Standards - I have a stripped Edge receiver sat in front of me right now that I'm just putting back together. Again.

It will probably fit. I doubt it'll be a great fit, but it should mount nonetheless. The RS KAC RAS has a 'claw' that clamps over the gas tube onto the delta ring, along with a sprung clip on the front of the rail that tucks under the front hand guard cap . Many cheapo rails do not have either of these. Decent airsoft replicas do have these features. I had a Lonex gun which had a KAC RAS style rail that exactly mirrored the real steel and it was rock solid.

Do you mean the mock bolt?

I'm sure a RAS with drop in if it's using a standard Delta Ring. I would consider the RAS 2 - where there is a stabilising section of RIS that bridges the receiver and RAS Rail. Stops wobble which is quite common with this type of handguard. https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/ares-ris-front-end-ras-2-kit---save-pound6650

TBH, if I hadn't just bought a bunch of upgrades for my 3D printer, I would of had it off you. Best of luck with the sale, I'm sure it'll go soon.

The OP specified the GC16, which is metal-bodied. Likely to be stronger than the Specna as it's billet-styled with extra girth around the rear of the lower The CM variant is plastic bodied, which to be honest is just as good (if not better) as Specna's metal bodies in terms of strength (I have both right in front of me to compare). I would buy the G&G (Plastic) along with a Perun ETU++ personally. You get most of the features of the Aster (no dongle required!!), and G&G's QA/QC is generally better.