Speedbird_666

Indeed Herr Hamster. My overall (long term) aim is to produce the most minimal viable gun that will work around a V2 gearbox. That will mean a receiver of my own design, but I'm not skilled enough to model such a thing yet...however these smaller projects have helped immeasurably. It's unlikely that I would ever rock up at a field with such a setup myself though, because that would just look stupid - fat middle aged guy thinking he's a speedsofter? Nah. However my middle son (13) loves playing airsoft, but has no real interest in realistic guns/RIFs (he sees the hobby almost as big-kids extension of Nerf), so he has no problems with rolling with such a gun if it's light and easy to shoot.

Yep, Fusion 360 models the threads. I send to model to Cura, which in turn slices it and creates the GCode for the printer.

Modeled in Fusion 360 (M32x1.5) and printed them - they needed to be scaled up by 2.5% to account for slight inaccuracies in the 3d Printing process. So I needed to remove the proprietary barrel nut for the stock G&G front end - so had to design/print a tool to do it: I knocked up a 'proper' barrel nut to check barrel fitting - y'know I think speedsofters have got the right idea when it comes to ergonomics, this thing feels super light, balanced and point-able: (I know, I know, haters gonna hate - this is an exercise in curiosity more than anything else) I intend to make a whole front-end using a ~40mm Carbon tube epoxied onto a 3D printed barrel nut, a printed outer barrel stub at the receiver end, a printed barrel stabiliser cap at the front, with the inner barrel free-floating in between.

15deg stock adapter (apologies for those easily triggered by Speedsoft-type stuff 😜😞 Took a few attempts to get the scaling right, but I got AEG barrel nut threads nailed:

All AEG AUGs use a V3 gearbox, with a few extra electrical gubbins for the trigger. Focus on 'V3 gearbox upgrades', rather than just 'AUG upgrades'. There are plenty of other guns that use the same gearbox, namely all AKs variants, G36s, CZ Bren, MP5K etc. so there are plenty of upgrade videos and tutorials about. Personally, like all my guns, I would start with a High-torque motor (SHS/Rocket etc.) and see how it performs. Quite often even mediocre guns feel 100% better with just a simple motor change. But if you are new, and this is your only gun, leave the gearbox well alone until you've got a backup gun or two.

Looks like the LMGs come with G&G's much maligned ETU. (pic from Evike's review video) Pull out the MOSFET, bin it, and plug in a Perun ETU++ instead. Just need to take the buffer tube off to fit it 'plug and play', no gearbox-opening shenanigans required. Then enjoy all sorts of programming goodness.

I'm modelling a reasonably accurate V2 GB (+/- 0.1mm) in F360 to use for an own-design receiver project. Took a few 1mm test prints to get the footprint measurements dialed-in Progress so far - I won't need all the details (not bothering with bushings and screw holes etc.) but I will model the trigger hole, rear pin hole, grip frame slot/holes, and the selector area on the other side.

That's what I'm hoping. I'm bored of actually playing airsoft - I have more fun tinkering with guns etc these days. But I have two teenage sons who love playing, so I want to mix things up a bit and try new things.

Yeh - it's a CQB monthly pistol/shottie only night. I don't need AEG range/accuracy, just need to chuck BB's in the general direction I'm pointing.

Right-o, some polarising reports there. I think I'll take a punt on a CYMA springer. It's more for curiosity really. If I like playing with a shotgun I'll consider something more elaborate (i.e. TM Breacher) in future.

Thanks - I'll have a look into those. Interesting - I've not heard of that as an issue before.

In the 16-odd years I've been playing airsoft, I've never actually played with a shotgun before. However a site within reasonable travel distance is doing monthly pistol/shotgun evenings and I quite fancy a go. Don't want to spend too much, so was looking at CYMA tri-shot springers (CM.350 et al) as a starting point. Are they any good? Otherwise, what am bestest cheap (sub-£100) shotties?

How do they compare to the likes of SHS/Rocket etc Mr Borg? I see they work out about £5-7 cheaper than UK prices with 10 day shipping. I might take a punt on one.

Result. I would be inclined to reduce the size of your powerbank to drop some weight - it's a bit overkill for two tiny fans pulling ~0.06A each. You would be looking at ~120mAh, which would take even a cheap £2 Poundland 2200mAh Powerbank 16 or so hours to discharge.

Welcome to the forum! Unfortunately you picked a bit of a shit charger - sorry. You won't find anyone recommending a 'dumb' charger such as the A450 on here. A charger with an LCD screen will tell you the cell voltage(s) of your packs and will help you with troubleshooting battery issues. If you can send the charger back - do it. You can buy one of these for a few quid more (assuming you paid ~£30 retail) and it is an excellent bit of kit.

Mk2 Drop stock with integrated buffer tube threads:

Find a magnet and attach it a rod or something with some gaffer tape. Saved me a couple times when a spring or screw dropped into the murky depths of my shed floor. Otherwise, buy a mixed box set of grub screws from Amazon or Ebay. I bet it'll be something like an M2 or M2.5.

When you try too hard to get the 'battleworn' look

This. I have several BCM style grips - I run them all angled-forward.

That's a really good idea! Do you print the threading or tap it after printing? What thread is the buffer tube?

Looks like a Modify GB shell

To answer your questions: - Yes, I like to model the parts myself wherever possible, although you can find a fair bit of stuff on Thingiverse. I use Fusion 360 as my modelling software and Cura for slicing the model for print. If you want to design more 'organic' (such as your skull masks) I know people use software such as Z-brush and blender to produce the models, but I have no experience with these. - That's a difficult question to answer, as there are several main types of printable plastic (PLA, PETG and ABS), and numerous sub-variations with additives and special properties. I'm using PLA+, which is less brittle than normal PLA, but at the cost of some mechanical strength. Normal PLA will catastrophically fail (i.e. snap or shear) , PLA+ is more likely to bend and stretch. In the example of my drop-stock adapter, it's been printed in the least-optimal way for strength (the receiver extension for the buffer tube could potentially fail under enough force) due to the way that a printer lays down plastic layers on top of each other, but it was easiest to print it that way. In reality, the adapter feels more solid that the plastic G&G receiver it's attached to and there is zero flex, but time will tell. I have an idea for the next version to make it a 2-piece design that means that the receiver stub will be printed in a different orientation to the rest of the adapter. Current design print layer direction vs 2-piece design: - I'm using a Creality Ender 3 V2 bought directly from the Creality UK warehouse. It was on sale for £168 with free postage, but I think the price is back up to around £200 now. I'm running it pretty much stock with no upgrades other than a quieter fan for the PSU and yellow bed springs. I plan to add BLtouch (self leveling sensor) and some new bowden tubing at some point soon though.

Now that is a cool (no pun) idea. I didn't realise you could get blowers that small. I could potentially integrate those into the sides of my paintball goggles. My only concern would be fan noise?

Job done. Perfect, tight fit first time (wasn't expecting that, hence the Red filament as I'm running low on black). Will print a black one shortly now I know the tolerances and fitment work.

This. Also, KWA tend to use proprietary parts in their GBs (tappet/nozzle), so upgrading/repairing later might be trickier. I would get a cheap GB for now to play around with - you can still upgrade the tits out of it, but if you fuck up (and you will to start with) it's won't be so painful financially.