Speedbird_666
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Posts posted by Speedbird_666
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2 minutes ago, The_Original_Twig said:
Thanks guys; I was thinking of starting at £300, given someone may just want it for the “official” Prime kit/markings. The internals were pretty good quality at the time: Head 1950 TN 6.04mm barrel, Hurricane high-speed gears (we didn’t really care about ratios back then!), Guarder bearing spring guide/bearing piston head/cylinder head/Teflon cylinder/Piston/HOP rubber/air nozzle/bearing high speed bushings.
I removed the stock latch as it was pretty loose new out of the box, and I thought the lines were cleaner without it - so I’ve tastefully permanently bolted the stock at that length (therefore removing all battle-rattle). Given the quality of the Prime kit, it’s a pretty solid rig.
So all brand-name internal stuff then - make sure you include all that in your listing. Do you still have the stock latch? If so, I would consider reinstalling it for the sale.
Have a go at £300 and if doesn't go for that - incrementally lower the price.
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4 minutes ago, Rogerborg said:
I guess one benefit of something cheap like an MI-7 is that you can just go ahead and do what I've done to mine: lop off the whole bottom-right quarter of it.
That's....a fair point I suppose. It's just a shame the MI-7 looks so...gopping. But I guess you're not looking at the outside of the mask when you wear it.
I did have a squeaky bum moment cutting the fan hole into the top of my Empire goggles.
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28 minutes ago, Floperator said:
Just because of the integrated helmet or other reasons? Asking as a prospective buyer.
I've only seen one in the 'real' and it made the wearer look like a bobble-head.
I think the helmet was FAST sized, but the face mask makes the whole thing look much bigger.
I'm sure it's a decent product though - just don't expect to be able to aim down sights with one:
(Random google images result)
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Tough one this - it's very niche in the sense that'll only appeal to those who know the (relatively obscure) real steel gun and have a hankering for a replica.
I would suggest being a bit more specific with the internal parts you've fitted (spring, piston, cylinder etc) - who's the manufacturer(s)? what ratio gears etc?
It's a really nice looking bit of kit, although I can see that the stock adjustment latch is missing.
I get a number of £200-ish in my head, maybe a touch more. The Prime kit was fortune back in the day, but many airsofters wouldn't even know who Prime is/was now.
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8 hours ago, Impulse said:Buy yourself a chrono.
This x1000000000000000
Chronos should be mandatory kit for HPA users. Why would anyone drop a huge wedge of cash on an HPA setup and not £50-£60 on a chrono is beyond my limited comprehension.
- Badgerlicious, Tommikka, Floperator and 4 others
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1 hour ago, The_Original_Twig said:
[snip] Is it still competitive? Should I just buy something new to play with? [snip]
Welcome back.
Whilst the halcyon days of plastic-bodied Tokyo Marui's being the de-facto standard for Airsoft AEGs is long over - we are still shooting tiny plastic BB's at each other in much the same fashion as 20 years ago.
If your gun is shooting 340-350fps, reasonably accurately and reliably, at a rate of fire you are content with, then it's all good - take it out and play a day with it. It'll also give you the opportunity to see what other people are using and benchmark your gun's performance against something more contemporary. I think your gun, if all is working correctly, will be absolutely fine.
But I would avoid the 11.1v LiPo for now personally - it might be a bit much for the gun.
- EDcase, Rogerborg, Floperator and 1 other
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11 minutes ago, Welshd1k said:
How do you find the empire.
I've been using Empire goggles for 12 years or so in various models - E-vents and E-flexes and I also have a couple of pairs of the low-end Helix as loaners and for my kids to use. So I can say I like them.
As a glasses wearer - the lens design is big enough that my specs fit inside with loads of room. I use a DIY goggle fan setup to mitigate fogging on the glasses (a problem with any paintball google for a glasses wearer).
As for Dye - well, frankly, if they are shit, people wouldn't buy them either new or second hand - they are very popular. I've not tried either the i4 or i5 personally (I had the Dye Invision/i3's which is a very different goggle system). The i4 and 5 use the same lens design and the i4 can be had for £100.
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28 minutes ago, Rogerborg said:
Valken MI-7, with a decent dual pane thermal lens, and spend the rest on hookers and blackjack.
That's a very different class of Paintball goggle. Once you've been higher-end (like OP already has), entry-level feels pretty shit by comparison.
53 minutes ago, Welshd1k said:Dye i5
Jt proflex x
Virtue vio
Push unite
JT Proflex (not the 'X' version) are pretty epic for comfort and breath-ability, let down by the issue that the lenses can be a bitch to change. The X-version seems a bit wank as the frame is thicc (and cheap looking) and cuts down your vision.
Empire E-Flex matches the look and performance of the original Proflex but with a better lens system - I have two sets and have been amazeballs over the years.
They do have an Airsoft version with a mesh lower called the E-Mesh
A lot of the Airsoft speedybois use Dye I5s. They can be had for well within your budget (£160) and hold their value really well if you keep them in good nick.
If you start down the helmet route - expect to sweat - a lot.
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16 minutes ago, Diemaco said:Hk says the 417 can be had in 3 different barrel llengths,13" being the shortest.
https://www.heckler-koch.com/en/products/military/assault-rifles/hk417/hk417-a2-13/overview.html
That's the A2.
Pre-2013 they were 12in (assaulter version). The gun I saw definitely wasn't 'new' but was in very good condition. No indication of any kind of sound suppressor, and was setup with pretty much the same kit as the L119A1 (Grip pod and ACOG with red dot). Definitely not setup for long range precision shooting (that's the L129's job). If I had to guess, it's employed for counter body-armour.
That being said, I had less than 30 seconds with it and was more concerned with cocking, dry firing and looking through the sights, so it could have been a 13in version, but it only seemed fractionally longer than L119A1. In fact when I approached the stand I thought it was a '416 and took me a good couple of seconds to realise that it was it's 7.62 brother. Once I put the gun down and asked a few questions - it got nabbed and put into it's peli case.
Anyway, cool day in the office.
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8 minutes ago, Rogerborg said:
Of course, adulterated with increasing amounts of Mystery Mass: 6mm of ABS would only be about 0.12g, and 6mm of PLA about 0.2g.
There’s an interesting blog post from ASG about their ‘Open Blaster’ bio BBs, and they touch upon the materials used to obtain the BB mass.
https://actionsportgames.blog/2021/12/16/_can-you-have-truly-bio-bb/
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Just been down again. Grabbed a couple more pics. They still had their secret squirrel gun in its case under the table but left the mags out on display…🤔
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9 minutes ago, Tackle said:
OK, so no pics, but what did this new "sooper gnu" resemble, m4 variant ?, bullpup ?, you can't leave us hanging😬
Made in Germany. 7.62mm. 12in Barrel (mental). Looked barely used so probably not an SF Cast-off. Only non-SF unit to be issued them in the UK so that's why they didn't want them pictured for OPSEC (their words). There's quite a few gun enthusiasts and ex-army guys on campus, so they realised pretty quickly that they probably shouldn't have put it on display in the first place.
The Glock 19 was quite surprising to me. No idea any of these were in use within the Army.
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So, into the office I go for another day of pushing spreadsheets around only to find that my employer is hosting an Armed Forces day with a few military units having set up stands/displays.
So I got to play with some real guns, namely the L119A1, the L129A1, Glock 17/19 (Military Police Special Operations use both ‘17s and ‘19s with laser grips). Cool stuff.
They also had another rifle/carbine on display that I was surprised to see. I was not allowed to photograph it, but they still let me play with it. They shoved it in a peli case shortly thereafter as they had been asked loads of questions about it from other gun nuts on campus.
And to think I was going to Work From Home today…
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Chatting to the guys at the Z1 shop a few weeks back - they have their own range of BB's and the topic of Bio BB's came up.
Basically, they told me that on their range (so can't talk for every manufacturer) the key difference is the coating/finishing - their normal BB's coating/finish is UV resistant, the Bios coating is not and is also hydroscopic. The actual bulk of the BB - the PLA core , is the exactly same.
I don't believe that the just being 'Bio' means that they are inherently more susceptible to shattering these days. The non-bio ASG Blasters are well known for also shattering - to the point that some sites have banned them.
I think the bigger distinction between BB's when it comes to shattering risk is not Bio vs non-Bio - but rather cheap vs expensive.
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22 hours ago, Davegolf said:
The TM MP7 is a cracking gun, accurate, fast and loud… what more could you want 😎
Well some would argue size I suppose 👀Random brainfart which I can't be bothered to Google...are TM MP7s proper 1:1 scale? I know the AEPs were under sized.
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5 minutes ago, EDcase said:
(Take EXTRA care with Nuprol batteries as they don't have the best reputation for quality)
The cells were probably picked from the reject bin in the factory, roughly matched for Internal Resistance and slapped together with a Nuprol logo stuck on the side for good measure.
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I’ve tried loads, but always circle back to Paintball goggles.
I use them exclusively now l, no matter where I play as they are quite handy at protecting teeth too.
There’s loads more room for glasses and the arms so they are the most comfortable for my big noggin.
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1 hour ago, Skara said:
(that don't really work btw because they're literally one inch apart and focusing them correctly is fucking impossible).
A lot of police departments in the US stipulate that backup iron sights must be fitted even when using tall risers for passive NV (thus rendering the irons unusable). The integrated Iron sights are only there to tick a box on the admin paperwork keeping the bean counters happy and are not really intended for backup use. Chris Costa covered it in a recent video.
Unity mounts are old hat anyway - the cool kids roll with GBRS Hydras.
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Plastic guns are not always lighter.
Plastic bodies guns can be just a heavy as metal ones. The receiver weight will only account for 100g or so between a decent plastic body and a generic chinese metal body found on sub £200-250 guns. Choice of stock, rail and barrel-length is a bigger consideration IMO for a gun if you want something light weight.
Soooo......here are 5 of mine/my kids *roughly* similar-sized guns, stripped of their accoutrements such as vert grips, sights and lights etc:
4 of these are 'plastic' bodied guns. One is 'full-metal'. And the picture above is in weight order.
So - heaviest to lightest (left to right):
ICS CXP-16 (Plastic Body - Metal Rail) - 2473g
BO Dynamics LT595 (Plastic Body - Plastic Rail) - 2327g
Specna Edge E12 (Metal Body - Metal Rail) - 2054g
KWA EVE-4 (Plastic Body - Plastic Rail) - 1946g
G&G CM16 SRS (Plastic Body - Metal Rail) - 1845g
So there is a 628g/1.3lb difference from the heaviest to lightest. There is only a 200g difference between the Specna Edge and and the G&G CM16 SRS.
This is a very un-scientific review of their weights - some stocks are heavier than others (the PTS EPS is a bit of a tank, but amazeballs), some gearboxes are heavier than others (ICS and KWA) etc. but you get the idea.
So - my advice is to try and get to a local Airsoft shop (if that's feasible) and pick up as many as you can to get a feel of them. If you can't to a shop - ask other players at your next skirmish about their guns - many will be happy to let you fondle their weapons (boom boom).
- Rogerborg and Floperator
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1 hour ago, Bradders13754 said:
just after any info on Specna Arms Daniel Defense MK18
Not a lot to say. I'm assuming you are referring to the CORE series with the plastic bodies.
Features synonymous with the CORE series in general: They have OK gearboxes, all use the same receivers, the only differences are in the front rails, stocks (Crane or PDW) and some CORE versions have the mediocre Gate X-ASR Mosfet inside that will shit itself with anything more powerful than the stock motor. I'm not sure if the DD Mk18s with the X-ASR are in stock with UK suppliers from what I've seen though - the £145 models don't seem to be fitted with them.
I have seen/felt/held the CORE DD Mk18 'in the real' at the Z1 showroom and it's...fine. The receiver plastic is....ok...not G&G quality but perfectly serviceable. If you crank down on the receiver, you will probably feel some flex (you can with a G&G too to a lesser extent), but for BBwars/LARPsoft it will be ok - just don't wrap it around a tree.
I have never seen a Double Eagle 'in the real', but from the reviews and photos I've seen - I would lean towards one of them. They look better, have better features, and I think they are better value for money as @Rogerborg points out.
But the best plastic bodied M4-style guns from what I've seen are BO Dynamics/Lonex LT595 and the KWA EVE-4. Both are incredibly solid and wobble-free. And I have both. Had the LT-595 for nearly 10 years and it has been lovely to own. The KWA not so much frankly.
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Nuprol make nothing, they just add their stickers to other companies products and add a chunk onto the RRP for the privilege.
Here is a manual for the same charger, with another sticker/logo on it.
https://www.overlander.co.uk/pub/media/downloads/VSRmini_Manual_V3.pdf
Your settings for this battery will be:
LiPo Balance Charge
1.4A
7.4v (2S)
Your battery has a mini-tamiya Connector - which won't work with this charger unless you buy an adapter.
Once you receive said adapter, you will need to de-pin the wires on the mini-tamiya end (using a pin or the inside of a biro inner ink tube) and swap them over, reversing polarity for Airsoft use.
Once reversed, plug the yellow end into the yellow socket on the charger, connect the battery to the adapter's mini-tamiya connector, and the balance lead on the battery into the balance port on the charger.
Start charging and away you go. The charger will beep when it's finished, generally around an hour depending on how good the balance logic is and the condition of your LiPo's cells.
Really important - Never, ever, charge unattended. LiPo fires are not something to be taken lightly. I have seen garages and bedrooms gutted by LiPo fires local to me. It's very rare, but you don't want to set a battery on charge, pop out for 10minutes, and come back to your house burning down. There are safety products, such as LiPo bags, to use while you are charging if you want some piece of mind.
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1 hour ago, BoingusMaximus said:
I live in St Leonards!! I didn't know they exist. I had better join up then
It's on Foxbury Road, off Boundary lane. It's literally someones back garden. More info here
They are not big fans of airsoft guns because of the plastic BB's - they worry that they will be flicked around by the mower and with become unsightly for the landowner.
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2 hours ago, EvilMonkee said:
Or kidnapping and raping a homeless guy like (If I remember correctly) 3 Para Mortar Plt did back in the mid 80s according to legend....
Well, this thread took a dark turn....
Paintball mask /eyepro
in Guns, Gear & Loadouts
Posted
Yeh - I have a couple sets of Empire Helix which are fine. Quite like the look of the HK HSTL.