Sitting Duck

11 is a tiny bit young to play together with grown ups
Think most sites say 13+ to play with older/adult players
 
But I remember taking my 14y old to a u16 site once
He preferred to play with older players in the end
 
So there might be sites/games where u16's play
Or you might have to wait till he is 13 to play together
 
This info could be out of date and we are going into lockdown again it seems so take the above with a pinch of salt until you check what local sites are offering near you
 
Now - in the meantime, if you have a garden you can probably do some back garden plinking target practice if you are careful. Here you can purchase a cheap 2-tone starter gun and closely supervise him getting his feet wet with Airsoft - first read up on basic common sense safety & eye protection yourself of course
 
Spend some time with him plinking in the garden to see how he gets on, then with time you can make the decision if you both visit a site etc... when things settle down
 
Depending on how severe, or how much he is on the spectrum, you will know of he can play OK on his own in a young group or you both together at some point
Explain the situation maybe to a good local site, as there might be times where you get hit and have to leave the field/respawn where perhaps it might be wise if you BOTH call HIT and respawn together
 
But I'm sure when the time is right it will be an ideal opportunity for him to mix with others on his own for short periods of time - which will extend as time goes on
 
Apologies if your son is very mildly on spectrum, I'm sure you will both enjoy it - just covering some bases & possible examples where as a parent of an autistic child you will need patience, sometimes quite a bit of patience indeed

This is a 50/50, in some circumstances it's ok, but in some it's shady as fuck.
I've done it, BUT it was a night game, I'd gotten in to the large enemy encampment & casually strolling around in the darkness as if I was meant to be there was the only way to access the HQ building (& blow it up lol), game over & everyone laughed at my audacity, no complaints.
 
But to do that in broad daylight, I think I'd get the hump too, & let's be honest, we've all got the hump when being repeatedly shot when doing the "dead man's walk", if people started pulling that shit regularly, it'd soon descend in to chaos, dead players being hosed just because they didn't look "dead enough" lol
Edit ps just seen that cyberlawyer has made the same point regarding dead players, soz🤪

Hopefully this is cheaper than a gym membership:
 

New Specna for my wanker gun project
 

Failing all that
 
DUCT TAPE, if still loose - you ain't using enough
 

 
SORTED

Failing all that
 
DUCT TAPE, if still loose - you ain't using enough
 

 
SORTED

That's a 28a with a wooden stock
(or most likely the wooden look 028 with "tactical" ris & grip kit)
Grab a new barrel, try the JB Weld option - worth a go
could work to get it going again as a spare/back up gun
 
could buy another 028
but avoid the 520 or 522 models
yes you could buy the cheaper AK 522 but the flash hider is fixed & doesn't unscrew
but you are looking for the front assembly, so you could buy it and rip it all apart I guess
 
personally if the JB Bodge isn't ultra solid and is loses a bit of accuracy, or shoots slightly off
(correct-able-ish, but not quite as accurately straight as previously....)
 
Then I might be tempted to cut down the outer barrel a bit, to make a slightly shorter 300mm AK
then use it for close/mid range stuff and hopefully you won't fall on it so easily next time in its delicate repaired state
 
Yeah if I could find a spare 350-363 M4 inner barrel, chuck that in once bodged
see how it shoots & if it kinda works, consider cutting the thing down a bit perhaps
 
pity TWG don't stock the shorter 521 & that has a flash hider that unscrews
but the 52x series AK's have cheap bits like plastic dust cover
so time anybody buys the cheaper 52x AK's and starts replacing the weak plastic bits
it soon mounts up and the extra for a 028 is a wiser option imho, time you replace the crappy bits
 
in your case you could buy the 52x to gut & mess about perhaps
but probably not really wise unless money is tight
 
could just flog it as a boneyard, or look out for another AK needing attention
 
but worth give it a go boding it with JB Weld - nowt to lose
 
What you could do is fit a plate 30mm x 45mm to the front pair of screws
so that it binds the crack together - can't fit a plate to the rear scews coz it's where mag goes - duuhhh
 
But you could bind a plate to the front screws
AND....
if you don't want to cut up a bit of metal then luckily for you there is this....
 

 
So you could add one of those scope mounts, that would help bind & reinforce it a bit more
(mind you you may find these cheapo ACM mounts, might need a tiny mod/file/dremmel to fit on certain AK's
typical TM compatible BS as per usual in airsoft)
 
Or make up a metal plate 30mm x 45mm with 2 holes etc...
 
yeah, with a plate of some sort or mount, then JB the cracked stuff
altogether I reckon it can be bodged up to work again as a 455mm AK once more
and work fairly well if done properly with plate/mount as I suggested
 
have a look around for a scope mount - maybe about £15
trouble is a lot of places seem to be out of stock so you might have to order from ali-express
or somewhere...
 
I found this...
 
https://www.ant-supplies.uk/rail-base-mounts/ak-side-mounts.html
 
BUT I HAVE NEVER USED THEM OR HEARD OF THEM
but £12 & maybe free post could be worth a shot
 
never heard of them but they might be OK...
https://www.airgunforum.co.uk/community/index.php?threads/ant-supplies.245463/
 
hope some of crap helps

of the not particularly long list of reasons to run a longer inner barrel, this is right at the top.
 
although trying to explain to people that barrel length means nothing when you're holding a dragonuv is a bit awkward

Failing all that
 
DUCT TAPE, if still loose - you ain't using enough
 

 
SORTED

That's a 28a with a wooden stock
(or most likely the wooden look 028 with "tactical" ris & grip kit)
Grab a new barrel, try the JB Weld option - worth a go
could work to get it going again as a spare/back up gun
 
could buy another 028
but avoid the 520 or 522 models
yes you could buy the cheaper AK 522 but the flash hider is fixed & doesn't unscrew
but you are looking for the front assembly, so you could buy it and rip it all apart I guess
 
personally if the JB Bodge isn't ultra solid and is loses a bit of accuracy, or shoots slightly off
(correct-able-ish, but not quite as accurately straight as previously....)
 
Then I might be tempted to cut down the outer barrel a bit, to make a slightly shorter 300mm AK
then use it for close/mid range stuff and hopefully you won't fall on it so easily next time in its delicate repaired state
 
Yeah if I could find a spare 350-363 M4 inner barrel, chuck that in once bodged
see how it shoots & if it kinda works, consider cutting the thing down a bit perhaps
 
pity TWG don't stock the shorter 521 & that has a flash hider that unscrews
but the 52x series AK's have cheap bits like plastic dust cover
so time anybody buys the cheaper 52x AK's and starts replacing the weak plastic bits
it soon mounts up and the extra for a 028 is a wiser option imho, time you replace the crappy bits
 
in your case you could buy the 52x to gut & mess about perhaps
but probably not really wise unless money is tight
 
could just flog it as a boneyard, or look out for another AK needing attention
 
but worth give it a go boding it with JB Weld - nowt to lose
 
What you could do is fit a plate 30mm x 45mm to the front pair of screws
so that it binds the crack together - can't fit a plate to the rear scews coz it's where mag goes - duuhhh
 
But you could bind a plate to the front screws
AND....
if you don't want to cut up a bit of metal then luckily for you there is this....
 

 
So you could add one of those scope mounts, that would help bind & reinforce it a bit more
(mind you you may find these cheapo ACM mounts, might need a tiny mod/file/dremmel to fit on certain AK's
typical TM compatible BS as per usual in airsoft)
 
Or make up a metal plate 30mm x 45mm with 2 holes etc...
 
yeah, with a plate of some sort or mount, then JB the cracked stuff
altogether I reckon it can be bodged up to work again as a 455mm AK once more
and work fairly well if done properly with plate/mount as I suggested
 
have a look around for a scope mount - maybe about £15
trouble is a lot of places seem to be out of stock so you might have to order from ali-express
or somewhere...
 
I found this...
 
https://www.ant-supplies.uk/rail-base-mounts/ak-side-mounts.html
 
BUT I HAVE NEVER USED THEM OR HEARD OF THEM
but £12 & maybe free post could be worth a shot
 
never heard of them but they might be OK...
https://www.airgunforum.co.uk/community/index.php?threads/ant-supplies.245463/
 
hope some of crap helps

Failing all that
 
DUCT TAPE, if still loose - you ain't using enough
 

 
SORTED

I've just broken LOADS taking the piss, if i was that clever I'd have learnt this lesson sooner without so many wrecks
 
BUT one thing I do not understand is how this bloke shoots at 41rps at 320fps FULL STROKE
and hasn't SOMEHOW wrecked the box...
 
 
 
all I can say the bloke is very fortunate and if he gets a chance can he pick some lottery numbers for me

If you haven’t short stroked the piston and sector gear at that rate of fire you’d better take a back up when you skirmish it... you know, for when that piston gets chewed up.
 
It’s unlikely that the spring is stiff enough to fully return the piston before being picked back up. Either the sector gear is going to take teeth off the rack or it could bind and the gear axle or bearing will fail (becomes more likely with full steel teeth on a piston).
 
You may even find that with the FPS in full auto becomes unplayably low due to the premature engagement! 
 
Its a faff, but if you want it to last, you’re going to have to reopen it! Take it from experience, I thought people were being a bit ott but I haven’t had to take the walk of shame since following Sitting Duck’s advice

Thanks, The gun isn't short stroked. The sector gear still has all its teeth. I am eventually gonna reshim it, but after an hour that was as quiet as I could get it. Its definitely not battery efficient but it doesn't get hot even when spamming semi auto. I usually run it with a SHS HT motor but had this laying around and threw it in. I have plenty of lipo space as Im not using the ARP9s CQB stock. I have modified the ASG buttstock to hold 11.1 50c lipos. Thanks for checking it out. 

just to add after cleaning barrel...
ensure you are using "decent BB's"
 
say G&G .25's would be a good start
(I know they ain't ultra cheap, but decent ammo can/does make a difference)
 
if you started using another bag of shit egg shape bb's
then don't expect them to fly so true
if you are using G&G's already then yup barrel or hop rubber/nub problems for certain

just to add after cleaning barrel...
ensure you are using "decent BB's"
 
say G&G .25's would be a good start
(I know they ain't ultra cheap, but decent ammo can/does make a difference)
 
if you started using another bag of shit egg shape bb's
then don't expect them to fly so true
if you are using G&G's already then yup barrel or hop rubber/nub problems for certain

just to add after cleaning barrel...
ensure you are using "decent BB's"
 
say G&G .25's would be a good start
(I know they ain't ultra cheap, but decent ammo can/does make a difference)
 
if you started using another bag of shit egg shape bb's
then don't expect them to fly so true
if you are using G&G's already then yup barrel or hop rubber/nub problems for certain

Have you tried cleaning the barrel?
That would be a good start.
 
If that doesn't solve it then it may be miss-aligned or damaged hop rubber.

Hello everyone, Just finished up my GG ARP9 12:1 SSG. 
 
 

As said it was to do with the noise reduction putting these in a DMR
 
The ratio is about the same as std or just a smidge more
eg: 18:1 to say 22:1 - they are certainly not 32:1's like some people have claimed
 
So we are looking at "roughly" say 20:1 ratio on the helical sets
so the ratio would not appeal to me for a std AEG or a mild snappy one
sure I could use a High Speed Motor, but the amp draw would increase blah blah blah etc...
 
So with the 200 or 300 option being 18:1 or say 22:1 I can see me personally using it to pull a heavier spring
and listed a DMR example, not just for ratio but to utilise the smoother gear meshing to hopefully reduce noise
(which could be of benefit to not drawn attention to your actual position very quickly from shrilly gears
- though very little as pinion/bevel is still straight cut, but as Tesco says: Every little Helps)
 
Now on a DMR with say 22:1 - I'd probably aim for some precock of 75% upwards
but the precock is not important in "shrill" terms, as the gun still cycles 1 complete revolution
(just where the thing actually stops dictated by the pre-cock or end of cycle position)
So for each shot the gears would cycle a full revolution
so you might want that full revolution to be as smooth or quiet/non-shrilly as possible
 
Yes you could say or use these gears in any AEG, perhaps not such a huge benefit in a CQB build
but then if stealth is req then gas pistol or knife is maybe the preferred option or consideration
 
TL-DR, main point of helical gears is smoother meshing or transfer of power/energy
so in light of this, I personally can only see 18:1 or 22:1 sets going in a DMR perhaps ???
 
Yes the gear ratio is a factor, for fully compressing a m130
(not partially compressing a m120/130 like in SS setup)
But mostly due to slightly quieter/smoother meshing which can be of use in a sneaky DMR maybe
 
if they did Higher Speed Helical gears, then yeah I'd dive them a go for sure in a snappy build
even though as said, they have the bespoke bevel so screwed for a quick replacement if bevel busts
 
The ratio & the calculation method of counting the number of turns the bevel to 1 rotation of sector
is a rough ball park figure to establish the ratio of a std gear set
which imho should include the 200 & 300:1 sets
(dunno about a 4 gear set, but perhaps it might also apply)
 
The bevel gear meshing to pinion is still cut straight
so it still applies that the bevel ratio to pinion is the same as a straight set
then the bevel rotates say 6.25 turns to one revolution on the sector
multiply by 3 to arrive at say 18.65:1 ratio
 
So this method of bevel to sector rotations
can be easily used to quickly identify if you have a 18:1 set or a 16:1
(most 16's are 17.25:1 but VFC spurs produce a 16.5:1 ratio somehow)
& if you have a 12:1 or 13:1 set
(of course if the gears are stamped - then that is a good indication too)
 
but the method does work imho & I can't see this not applying to the helical set
as the gears are all cycling together the same way as a reg straight set
and on the sector the teeth do not protrude like on a 32:1 sector
 

where the sector gear has very large protruding 30 teeth meshing with the spur/step gear
 
on the 32:1 set the spur has 11 inner teeth
on the 18:1 set the spur has 20 inner teeth
on most 16:1 sets the spur still has 20 inner teeth
but less teeth on the outer edge compared to 18:1 spur's
 
The 200 or 300 set seem to have say 45 outer teeth
the 18:1 set has around 39 outer teeth on spur & 20 inner teeth
the 16:1 set has around 35 outer teeth on spur & mostly 20 inner teeth
(why 18 & 16's use the same type sector gears & SHS DSG's can be used with either) 
 
So a 16:1 spur has "spikey" teeth at the edge, but actually a couple less
but 16:1 VFC's have 21 teeth on some of their odd spring loaded 16:1 spurs
(and probably why you seem get a slightly faster 16:1 ratio on VFC's)
 

(weird gear sets and sprung loaded crap is not that wise over shimming to exact position imho)
 
another TL-DR - point being the ratio change is "mostly" dictated or altered
depending on the spur/step gear actual gear teeth
(and of course the sector being machined to match)
some of these minor differences are hard to spot at first glance
and if people wish to count teeth and work out the maths - that's fine
but the bevel to sector ratio thingy does tend to work quite well as a quick easy way to work out
or confirm the actual ratio of a gear set - eg: 18 or 16:1 or 13 or 12:1
 
and as far as I can tell I can see no real reason why the same method can't be applied to helical sets 
 
Now I do have a set of 200 & 300's somewhere in a box and I'm positive when I tested them
using the bevel/sector method I arrived at say 22:1 and maybe a bit more/less
(perhaps near 18 or maybe 24:1 - but certainly nowhere near 32:1 ratio some claim they equate to)
 
if anybody has a 200 or 300 set to hand then please confirm the bevel/sector turn ratio
I can't be arsed to go looking through boxes, it looks like there is say 45 & 21 teeth on a helical spur gear
compared to say 39 & 11 teeth on a 32:1 spur gear
 
so no I don't think the helical's are anything like a 32:1 set
but 22:1 give or take a bit depending on 200 or 300 set
 
Ultimate TL-DR - would be a fucking lot easier if they stopped this 200 or 300 bollox
and just went with the normal ratio crap stating the sets as 22:1 instead

Afaik there is a version of the brushless system with a dedicated channel for rotation, certainly something viable to replace the optical versions in things like the titan.
 
Cost i cant see as being the big barrier given how much folk will drop on their pews.
 
Maybe theres a technical reason it hasnt caught on, but then we're dealing with a hobby where nimh is still current tech despite being old hat for over a decade in the rest of the world.
 
 
Also liking the look of those gears, its not something i've ever put any study into but i'm reaching the point where gear whine is my number 1 hate.

***** SOLD  *****
 
Gun 4 sale
 
works (i fink)
 

 
PM me

iz fine coz it was a 2 tone (black/white)
& waz an imitation firearm
(wazn't a very realistic imitation firearm az ya can see)

iz fine coz it was a 2 tone (black/white)
& waz an imitation firearm
(wazn't a very realistic imitation firearm az ya can see)

I gotz no ukra that ok yeh???