Sitting Duck

Snipers would be one thing you will encounter Tripping ar$e over tit as you navigate maybe the less direct route to objective maybe more non-hit takers and people learn their guns aren't as long range as they thought Become a tree hugger - nigh on your main cover so peek left as well as right & high/low - they will be learn to communicate - quietly/signals but if you do break silence remember: "he's behind that tree" is not very informative but "behind tree @ 11o'clock" is better (if I had a £1 for the above line I could pay for my walk on fees) watch & learn from the regulars/pro's especially when you first arrive if things are not working out by lunchtime then maybe suggest a change of plan but the regs will maybe have an idea on what works & what don't (a proper team or a few organised squads are much more effective than 25 lone wolfs) Above all call ya hits, don't get stressed and just enjoy it

I'm nearly speechless for once - absolutely sickened by it "justice" would be too good for them c**ts soz but that is all I will say except my sympathy for the families left devastated & shattered by all of this

this MIGHT fit but YOU need to check and do your homework a bit coz some stock tubes have thicker/thinner walls (sounds crap but cheaper makes can have less metal used and so can fit a slightly thicker battery in tube) You - need to check/measure it all out but THINK this size fits in a FireHawk VS02 stock tube http://www.componentshop.co.uk/7-4v-1300mah-20c-continuous-discharge-lipo-battery-136mm-long.html please ffs double / triple check all dimensions - no point getting a battery that you can't fit

thank you for info.... realise that the box is a bit odd/unique but think it uses long motor type maybe normal bevel gear etc but extra teeth on sector/piston but if doing a 600mm will need most teeth on the 85/sr25 piston and full cylinder to get volume/ratio if I do a shorter one then normal 15 should be ok for a 400/450 barrel stock R85 cylinder I think is ported so have ordered a couple of full cylinders & set of 85/25 gears yeah gonna be yet another learning curve but at least it keeps it interesting

Mid caps are great if you get some good ones certainly beats the more "musical" high caps get a few of ya running around and just sounds like a mexican/latin/spanish maracas quartet yeah put on some samba de amigo and shake it baby: http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/9/91/SambaDeAmigo.jpg

indeed - in fact my credit card screams at me to slow down springs though are very varied - I have gotta finish a crappy cheapo plastic M4 spring tester basically an old plastic M4 front wired QD quick change spring box with hole in back of receiver then I can quickly check some old springs out and keep/bin them and have a rough idea... Then with findings of old/new springs I can see what I expect to achieve if using them on my next build think most are too lame to bother with but would be good to get a "rough" idea of what to expect yet another bloody thing to finish off - then I buy something else and forget what I started last week

my noob findings atm..... use silent piston head without a "proper" ASG or ultimate cylinder head and you will probably lose a bit but did use one with proper Ultimate head and got very good results Alas I put in a m115 spring + AOE and got 390/395 - oops so need to put in SHS m100 or usual Element m105 (not m115 - dooohhhhhh) but think 395 was good from m115 did get 340 from m105 without "proper" cylinder and doing AOE etc..... these are the only 2 silent heads I have fitted so far so results are a little mixed and not 101% accurate with fitting m115 so my own noobish views are still a little unclear on them but think unless you fit proper stuff on there you may lose a bit Ultimate coloured heads deffo do seem better than other brass types like Element ones Thing is it is still a little bit of guessing game as no 2 builds are quite exactly the same - even on same gun/model cylinder type/port, barrel to cylinder ratio, some springs are stronger than others so the mXXX can vary a lot on other makes sorry can't give you a deffo yes/no but think they might drop it slightly unless you pair it with proper cyl head or you are than bloody good at building box's with complete zero air loss all over cylinder port should be about 3/4 aprox but even then some descriptions are a bit off I would call some cylinders with 1/2 way porting more like 3/4 type porting or some ports are so tiny & right at end you wonder if they really doing much so with this crap I just posted you can only try it n see - AOE will reduce, silent possible reduction too if just over then maybe leave spring cocked overnight to "bed in" or lose a bit like most springs do over time I'm sure your builds are much much more efficient than my humble ones - soz I can't give a deffo 101% answer (actually I probably made this post more confusing now like most stuff I type) If you buy the "proper" Ultimate or ASG/Lonex stuff then £25 and end of day it ain't silent, only a slightly slightly slightly quieter "thud" that was all, if box is a bit schreechy or noisy then the silent factor means very little anyway Well I ain't gonna buy & replace them in all my builds - most stock stuff works perfectly fine when AOE & seals sorted which is what I have read on some techy sites and now am finding its true - if I shim/grease/aoe/seals etc.. properly think Samurai said cyma's may have a decent 6.04 barrel in their AK's anyway so your AK may not need much spent on it just the usual service/tweak on box and possible spring change if really needed but AOE will drop it M90 hitting 340 though - wow that is very efficient but some springs like guarder used to rate on .25's a while back so it can get even more confusing with spring ratings in some setups etc..... Most aeg gunsmiths will often stick to certain brands of upgrades as they know what to expect in their builds where is the ultra fit Ian AK guy when you need him - not seen him recently but think he would know about it all

shipping is about £6 though so 5 mags is about £43 shipped they also do some others for about £47 + shipping for 5 or 10 for about say 56/57 quid These "Bravo" ones are same grey colour but have a star & BCM on the metal case my first 10 were just plain grey but no worries and probably will spray a few tan maybe 10 maybe a bit much for one player so was why I said get a m8 or two to go in with ya very pleased with first box bought at Easter time, tested a couple of the Bravo/BCM and feed lovely wouldn't have bought another box if they were crap

Gunfire - normally TW & GF sell them for 145 Euro(ish) instead of about 175 Euro (got 1 s/hand that needs overhaul & a new one from TW when they did free shipping) over chrimbo GF reduced it to 125 Euro until 2nd Jan and thought can't buy another ffs well as it is free ship over 69 Euro at GF and as exchange rate is about 1.27 Euro to £1 I gave in - £100 for L85, well I have bought many (too many btw) crap stuff for that price in past Hopefully after learning a little bit on v2 boxes, will overhaul iffy s/hand one and see how that goes what I may do is make up a longer DMR version like L86 if that works out ok with new gear/spring/motor etc... then a good stock one and perhaps a slightly smaller one eg: 590ish barrel + m130 + slighty torquey gears perhaps (if I don't break it with beefy motor) 510 stock, setup but running well 425 aprox barrel - maybe short stroke to "normal" 15 tooth to help with the odd semi problem & boost rof Well that is the idea or more like yet another dream/project yes it was offer too good to miss and money I probably haven't got this month but if Fire Support still had the ICS one at £200 sale offer I would of bought that mofo

and you can play with your "twanger", slap zippy, teach george something if you have unlimited patience and tell bungle just how gay/camp he really sounds (always thought star wars C3PO batted for other team too) soz going way way off topic as per usual

try some other mags first: http://www.landwarriorairsoft.com/airsoft-magazines-c3/high-capacity-c51/dytac-300rds-bravo-magazine-for-m4-aeg-black-box-of-10-p3058 get a m8 to go halves with ya - but they are good cheap mags cleaning gun/mags - not really coz the hop-up must be clean and dry some may clean barrel with alcohol wipes, some may use a tiny - and a I mean a tiny bit of silicone oil in barrel only but if any of this gets in hop-up you will need to strip and clean/wash in warm soapy water or will need replacing - so in general to avoid f**king it up DON'T (it "can" help in some cases but to save getting into a row/debate avoid any chemicals especially as it might be mag related) some mags are just pure crap - yup got a few that are pi$$ poor at feeding pop one of the above Dytac's in - lovely - suffice to say most mags that came with guns are still in their boxes bought some jumbo 500rnd ones from Hong Kong and they last for ages..... because f**k all comes out the bastid mags !!!! (pile of crap they are) OK I could change spring inside mag and pi$$ ball about but Dytac do job great & just over a fiver each suffice to say we got another box recently

or get this 5-tone gun then: http://www.evike.com/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=22&products_id=42979 you could wave that around and nobody would give it a second thought A nerf gun would look more lethal IGNORE the above crap - it IS still an airsoft gun and would need ukara to buy/import (just being silly as per usual) The regulations are there and we have to abide by them, some might seem a bit ott but it is there for everybody's sake including you.... There are things you can do, ukara if 18, get a IF and "change" it - though this is dodgy ground Plus this subject is brought up time and time again and all that Still - be thankful you not living Australia for example where airsoft is banned down under After a little thought the GunDam SRC 5 tone gun may in theory not need ukara as it certainly not a RIF looking aeg (unless kids & clowns go to war) But I would not be surprised if you ordered it from evike then you get a request for UKARA or they will threaten to paint it ffs (yeah if you can then 2-tone it midnight black & dark graphite grey please) Once more ignore my crap - maybe not need a ukara for gundam but will deffo need to be 18+ etc... (who knows - who cares - who reads my posts anyway)

it is - or more likely the other way round a Viper is a Well AK renamed I reckon kinda funny name really - some/a few of the Well stuff is ok-ish but most is not so with that in mind perhaps most of stuff is not very "well" and should perhaps be called - ill instead Yeah my gun is I L L & it really is sick (says the guy with more broken or unwell guns than most)

R85 as it was on offer for 125 Euro - £100 !!!! a few days ago could not silence the screams no more - ok it ain't a "proper" ICS one but I ain't worthy yet to buy a decent one only to break it like most of my stuff Some beefier motors (SHS hi torque & Big Dragon M160) & a few gearbox odds n sods Mrs says we need to decorate - so may buy her some new paint brushes & get step ladder out for her

Really silly daft question....... Did you remove trigger switch spring at any time ? if it was installed incorrectly it can rub or impede the tappet plate whizzing back n forth (trigger spring needs to be facing downwards - put it on the other way it can rub on tappet plate) I have made that mistake amongst numerous others - some of which made a bit of a mess inside if cut-off lever engages and pops the switch - my guess is that as it pops up and flies back to disengage the tiny spring which "might" be upside down and main body of spring is very close now to tappet.... the spring hits or puts pressure on tappet plate as it pops and thus it don't return properly or quick enough which means crap/no seal etc...... Well that is my nooby guess - but I've done that (more than once before the penny dropped) not gonna go on too much but when fitting any new/replacement parts it is very wise to check and then double/triple check all is moving as it should be, close up box without spring etc... to ensure stuff like cylinder & head fit correctly inside box as they should, head locates on the lugs, cylinder clicks in place slide piston back n forth when fitting - quite common there may be a slight burr or blob of plastic from mould that snags or a little tight when moving all the way back n forth - tiny careful sandpaper I am a major trainee apprentice noob but from making numerous cock-ups and stuff I have started to gain a tiny - well microscopic bit of wisdom and now I really take some time checking these new bits all fit together properly before I fit spring back in there very often you find some "better" parts still need a tiny little bit of tweaking to fit perfectly 3 types of TM compatible parts: 1st is perfect fit - made to measure 2nd is in need of a little tweak - ahh that's better 3rd - that f**king thing ain't never gonna work and must be for v3 gearbox coz it not going in this v2 box finally on battery side - you may also consider the 9.9v Life in between 7.4 & 11.1v lipo's (though size and capacity is more limited - but might be option if you don't wanna pump 11.1v or find 7.4v not enough)

if that gearbox is plastic then NO - it will bust if plastic gears even if it has plastic gearbox with metal gears - it will soon bust will need a proper gearbox and sorry to say may as well get a more "proper" aeg seems to be an improved B500A1 or bulldog or M805 beginner plinker but still not really a decent skirmish-able or easy upgrade aeg very likely to have a M90 or 300fps spring in there and likely to be about the limit motor might not be up to much more and deffo wouldn't advise using a battery bigger than 8,4v (some funny videos with plastic boxes self destructing on 11.1 & 14.4v lipo's) ok for plinking in back garden, possible get by on a cqb site but use it for what it is and perhaps save upgrade money for a better gun - M120 will push about 390fps way over most sites btw but if you have a plastic box like I think may be in there it will very likely bust real soon

Ahh the trying not to be a dick bit may take a while for me - kidding (sort of) well deffo may try mall as I enjoyed cqb - think its funnier too like when chubby & a few of ya get wedged in a doorway and peeps yelling move move move and the classic - is anyone in there ya wonder as you peek a corner... CRACK - yup HIT - deffo somebody in there as I just got my head shot off

When TWA had urban it was the nutz - alas that is gone Team Nuclear Waste used to play at TWA Woodland spring/summer but they have stopped though 1 or 2 of them turn up from time to time and show us noobs how its done TWA is a cheap & cheerful site like I have said - not the best and most serious I admit but is good to get ya feet wet so to speak and in my case on doorstep and perfect for getting ukara £20 full walk-on or £10 for half day, shop sells stuff at good prices, takes safety seriously I found They run on Saturday's rather than Sunday's like many sites but maybe not for the more serious players But I try not to take it too seriously and go for fun and often have a laugh, keep me ukara up, break a gun etc... Son normally goes full day - drop him off and pop back in afternoon for half a day with any stuff he/we may need So though it may not be the perfect site for some it does me and will continue to visit as its so local Might pop down Epsom again, or one day try Mall and/or Sandpitt with more "serious" players (might have to grow up a bit myself - so it might be a while before I check out Mall though)

gorgeous & I'm sure she shoots as good as she looks out of interest whats the silencer on her ? just looks so damn good & congrats on your dremmel skills etc...

yup - just had to have her, not got the "proper" scope for her yet but she seems ok atm & doesn't mind me not taking her out much and spending money on her (wish most women were like that)

It can help with getting some leverage & reduce sore hand/fingers if pulling larger spring most of day Not took my SVD with handle into battle yet but deffo makes it easier to pull rather than tiny handle Bolt is best & most accurate out of box, aeg SVD's usually use a bespoke/custom gearbox though some aeg makes like JG 1.2m long sniper/RK's use normal ver 3 gearbox But bolt is best & what its all about - yeah I fell in love this sexy tall russian babe too plus there is folding stock version, some cheap normal aeg bits in there plus co2 option yeah you gotta love this intimidating bloody long/tall badass girl

Hi - got bolt & aeg version though bolt is best (you got the svd cocking lever from evike ($18 USD) to help pull heavy spring ???) most of my guns have similar names though - usually: Damn-it, $hit plus other profanities plus most magazines are called Crap-Mag (always blame gun/mag when I'm hit rather than myself for sucking at airsoft) Welcome to forum, ignore most of what I say - everybody else does

Blimey - wtf did they do that for I wonder ??? ASCU & others just use micro switches, pic chip & "normal" gears think I'll cross that aeg off my wish list maybe

Active braking "can" generate a little more heat (certainly don't make the motor run cooler) normal fets are negative or npn - triggers the negative supply on/off with active an additional positive fet (pnp) is used to reverse polarity to stop motor as said above In most "general" builds and if a high speed/torque motor is used then it probably will be ok without AB Most high speed/torque motors use neodym magnets (silver) as opposed to cheapo stock ferrite magnets (black) Neodym magnets are MUCH stronger than ferrite - if you can turn a motor over easily that is a ferrite a neodym is very hard to turn like stepper motors, these stronger neodym motors stop much quicker than ferrite motors that roll on & on when power is cut. So if using a stronger neodym motor you "may" not need to use active braking unless you are running a higher speed setup or DSG Using older ferrite motor and higher volts then you may find you need AB but that is if the old stock motor will be up to the job and if it can take any extra stress using AB fet. Me thinks most will upgrade motor to neodym so AB probably won't be needed unless you are going nutz If you are fitting the usual "external" mosfet then you can just do the main rewire on the switch/motor leads try a normal non-braking fet that should be fine for most setups - if it does over run or double fire then it is very straight forward to replace the NB fet with an Active Braking fet is my humble noobish opinion Soldering - there was a couple of threads on soldering deans and stuff a week or two ago with a vid also most soldering is a lot down to using decent iron,solder & perhaps flux plus a bit of practice not hard but like most stuff the more you do it the better you get (usually) deans thread: http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/24451-what-deans-plugs-do-you-use/ There a number of ways to wire it all in, v2 gearbox's are a little more awkward than v3 as motor wires on v2 are inside box and if rear wired you have extra wire(s) running by motor spindle but you can run signal wire(s) externally if you are careful. When using thicker 16awg motor wire space gets tight inside a v2 where as v3 motor wires are external so to speak. It is not that hard if you can solder ok - all down to using decent stuff + practice and then add a little common sense

weigh piston first..... just under 20g is what I aimed for on last few builds on complete piston a set of full steel teeth & an ali head can get up to 30gms with piston bearing some cheap lightweight pistons can be as low as 13gms but didn't look robust for a hi speed setup swiss cheese may only reduce weight by about 3 or 4gms which equates to all steel teeth or ali head In a DMR with higher spring a bit of weight is ideal but if going for hi rof then a lighter piston is required (but without losing too much strength) For what its worth - if you have a set of scales then use them to check weight of piston you would be suprised the difference when you compare a few pistons and it can make a difference If using hi speed gears 13:1 or 12:1 and piston is a bit heavier then you may get pre-engagement & that may require short stroking & a slightly heavier spring if this happens. You can nudge 30+ on stock 18:1 gears if you get your homework done with a hi speed motor hence I said 18 or 16:1, half decent 20g or less piston should be fine with 1 or 3 steel teeth for most peeps as always take time & triple check everything turns/slides smoothly as you rebuild it. always check any parts you replace fit properly - sounds obvious but often new parts may need a bit of sanding or filing to fit into gearbox and close up perfectly. Failing to check a new part fits will often lead to snap or bang weigh the piston if you can and you may not need to use all steel teeth/swiss cheese piston unless you are going nutz I think it already may mosfet in with electrics on gearbox as well as all steel piston: http://www.airsoft-military-news.com/review-ares-amoeba-honey-badger but should of been able to handle 11.1v really and if review guide was saying rof is 15 then sounds like 18:1 and just a torquey motor rather than torque+speed motor in there: Anyway - looks like all steel teeth piston - maybe weigh it and see, could swiss cheese it but also the steel teeth could of contributed to gears shredding if box jammed instead of just having a piston snapped at the initial pickup tooth perhaps ??? (probably never know for sure how all gears & motor shredded inside now)