Sitting Duck

I'm sure something like a Maplin mini-kit LED game can be knocked up then probably wired into say a sound bomb module - very loud 12v alarm bell then this would signal game over if puzzle/bomb disarmed But like gameplay it has to be balanced enough to be a challenge but not impossible Bop-it - one of them devices you can't put down one minute... and then next you wanna smash against the wall "I frggin twisted it ya dumb ass pile of $hit" - AAAArrrrrgggghhhhhhhhh (yeah driven nuts by that sod thanks to my kids) Yeah don't make it too complex if using Simon etc... Picture it now - ya squad leader comes out of the objective.... FFS - can you guys keep it down a bit I'm trying to f*cking concentrate in there but you lot making all the noise keep putting me off can't you lot kill each other a little more quietly or stealthy - jjjjjeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeezzzzzzzz

Hmmm - within reason though, Trying to play "Bop it !!!" in the middle of a fire fight is way too friggin' mental to concentrate on but yeah something that requires take/find something, then fight to gain control of area & use that device to arm/disarm well stuff like that but not too crazy or intense that it gets nigh on impossible to complete the objective with average players

Unless you use stuff like Loctite thread glue them piston heads will come undone very soon (Blue is mild, use Red and you may have to dremmel the bitch off next time) another thing is perhaps include a spring washer but still add a drop of blue glue to be sure To be honest they add about 4 gms+ to piston's overall weight & near 5mm spring compression (use a 5mm plastic spacer instead as they don't undo or loosen & disintergrate/scratch cylinder) G&G use these plastic spacers & can be sourced easily on fleabay as plastic marine spacers in various widths/lengths - aprox 15mm diameter x 5mm - centre hole is little small but widen with file/drill or 15mm x 10mm - seems about right size for using shorter pistons in L85 aeg's (3x3mm teeth extra) "Fit a bearing spring guide and drop the piston bearing to save weight on piston" is what I have seen by people aiming for high rof & lightweight pistons/swiss cheese etc.... some complete piston's can be 15gms (no cheese) right up to over 30gms with full steel teeth & bearings All this crap can really add up a bit - plus I feel that much heavier pistons "could" mean greater impact force that "might" increase the chances of gearbox cracking at front/cylinder head area especially on gearbox's that are not radial on the cylinder edges - well that is my gut feeling theory (certainly ain't gonna make it better with 30gms smashing into right angled cornered cylinder casting over time) But Bearing - I never bother with as I will fit bearing spring guide now and leave piston bearing/washers in parts box 1 or 3 steel tooth piston & stay under 20gms is what I now go with - without a piston bearing Hope some of this crap helps - soz can't help ya on ya pistol I'm afraid but yeah I feel ya pain - think we have all been there and any gun can be 1 or 2 shots away from being bollox'ed

think you kinda answered your own question there..... 1 mag feeds - other one don't could try a little bit of felt/tape/velcro in magwell but could be a w@nked old mag with crap spring happens a bit - always remove bb's & empty mag when done for the day and I'm sure peeps have got some really nice great mags that feed lovely in their guns plus a few that don't on occasions those iffy mags may feed better in some other guns but not others could try other bb's & tape in magwell but quite likely mag is a bit borked - for that gun anyway (probably spring is worn & not supplying enough pressure to feed bb's very well) main thing is gun ok - mags are easy/cheap to replace I got some mid-caps and some hi-caps that are not so great at feeding, some are ok then crap after halfway mid-caps and some hi-caps that feeds about 5 or 6 bb's then need loads of winding (really need to either see if I can fit new spring/stretch it a bit but most likely should just bin most of them)

Interesting - heard Guarder springs were more powerful but some said they used to test or evaluate 'em on .25's Never will quite understand the 130% or 170% rating - wtf does that bloomin' mean (bit like 200:100 or 300:100 helical gear sets ffs - I think 200:100 is kinda like 24:1 imho) In general we know M100 equates APROX to 328/330 but then you have to chuck in a very perfect tuned setup with no airloss can add on up to 10% - cyl/barrel ratio can add/subtract - plus manufacturing variations or rough gradings, perhaps a M105 being rated as a M100 to ensure it hits the mark (do reckon Element M105 is aprox same power as a SHS M100 out of box myself) length of spring can mean very little at first glance too Then there is yet another big difference on top of all this - Bearings !!!!!! Each bearing used adds more spacing or compression - yeah I know it is obvious Piston Bearing - this can add up to 5mm - 4mm bearing plus 1mm washer Spring Guide - if this has a bearing on it then say aprox 4mm That is getting close to 9mm extra spacing or compression - which is 3 teeth on piston !!!! No wonder you could get all sorts of weird or unexpected results sometimes but still learning so unsure the best type of "windings" so far only used standard types Soz to OP - leave it, see how it all fires for now like most have said

£200 will get you: Zero one 2 tone 4 free G&G Raider or CM18 - £123 to £155 or Airsoftworld.net limited edition G&G GC16 mod0 £150 (not 26 model IMHO front sight is crap) 2 tone extra but all metal receiver all G&G's will be fine but raider cm18 or GC16 mod0 are great for money. About £40 to £60 change for battery charger n a spare mag GET DECENT EYE PROTECTION !! even carbine at about £117 is a good one but pay a little extra for Raider or sexy CM18 and you got loads of rails to mount all your crap on later There are other makes but most on here will suggest G&G as a very wise investment decent, look good, build quality is good, easy to work on, hold their money compared to some crap out there very good starter - intermediate M4 guns out of the box buy other cheaper stuff and you will probably/very likely regret it Edit - my warning came too late as you got a D4817 already (no worries I bought crap too first time around - B500A1 $hite)

Thanks but you keep it m8 thought ya girly was getting one too perhaps - maybe the shorty one (I mean ak spetsnaz not ya girlfriend is short btw - just kidding) then you can have a nice cosy day shooting each other with railed AK's maybe keep it for ya lady m8 - I just thought if ya got it off the shelf from a shop cheaply it would save me going nutz with me dremmel & files but I'm lazy - lol

Very nicely done sir indeed.... I have a small number of shorter rails "curved" or half moon type but half that length you did plus the covers are mostly the ridged type so a bit of work still required.... There are some covers already done but hard to find at decent/good price in stock mega kudos - very nicely done sir indeed

your mod or did you get the cover with rail fitted already - looks tidy please enlighten where n what used bought coz I wanna do it to my AK's and start using them My cover has the "bumps" on rather than the smooth type

leave it cocked overnight to bring it down a little bit but would of thought that from October you should of lost some tension in spring by now TBH - if it is running ok - firing straight/true with a range you are happy with then try & leave it cocked overnight If it ain't broke don't try to fix it - worry about it when you need to worry about it usually G&G's pull around 330-340 so would of thought it would of come down a little by now but that model is the shorter barrel Carbine - like a Comando M4 as some makers call it has say a 275ish barrel as opposed to usual 363ish barrel so maybe why its up a little if they used a "363" cylinder/port ? if you wasn't bothered about opening box up then I would say do AOE - that would bring it down 10 to 15-ish BUT like I said - leave it cocked overnight or 2 nights to lose some oooomph out of spring perhaps that should lose a little 5 to 10 maybe then check again Really - if it is running nice then leave it - or at least until she starts playing up & not running so nice

Bloody hate Tamiya's full stop female connector but with male pins inside red is round or some adapters is ain't ffs - gimme deans anyday Had a quick look at Large Tamiya and it seems that is where All the confusion comes in about polarity crap... On big Tamiya the round plug/socket is not red The big tamiya has round black polarity I think Jeez what bollock ache these tamiya's are ffd

Normally male deans is on gun & female deans is on battery (unless a bell-end wired it up) Red goes at the top of the T of the deans but some deans have markings on them Be careful about adapters - mini tamiya to large tamiya can be wired wrong/differently (think - don't quote me but perhaps in some RC uses some adapters can have wires in plastic connector swapped over) Had to carefully unpick & swap over a few tamiya adapter leads in past THINK in airsoft the RED lead goes in the ROUND socket & BLACK goes in SQUARE socket..... (basically sure is was RED is ROUND rule) I say I think that was right or how I remembered to check but please double check and always double check by following the lead from battery to last gun connector that it all stays the same colour If you can solder or if you got some common sense then it don't take long to swap over etc....... I know you may be chomping at bit to get started but a big major major thing to remember if you or anybody messes with this NEVER be silly and cut both wires at once - short circuit - BANG kill a lipo etc.... (really sounds obvious but I very nearly did this just steaming in and I know not to do it) You may need to remind us what you are thinking of doing btw.... AEG = mini tamiya on gun has female thin metal socket battery has male metal pins that go inside this However - the plastic CONNECTOR on gun is male but pins inside are female same on battery - pins are are male but connector itself is female The above plus some adapters can be wired differently and throw into that the usual you may not fully understand what I am saying/meaning or seller's description might be out (is perhaps I got a few - wtf no that ain't what I ordered, i think) Tamiya's are a little qwirky and all that - why I ended up buying some pins/connectors to do my own leads Deans are Deans and easy to do but need soldering rather than crimping (well there are 3 sizes but we use the normal deans not mini (very very few guns use) & not the tiny micro deans) Oh yeah you are well confused now but much easier to speak to component shop or at least check their terminoligy I bloomin' hate mini tamiya's coz though connector's may be male they got female contacts inside so I get all argumentative saying well that female is really a male then might explain why I got so many wrong connectors in past and thought f*ck it I'll do me own ladyboy cross dresser connector whatever you bloomin' call that sodding thingy majig

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Think it is like a chain - well yeah it is of course and would deffo say mini-tamiya are the weakest link - goodbye..... After that then comes the matter of fitting decent 16awg wire and in my hi-speed fet G&G I had to apply additional solder to the motor connectors at the 90 degree bend - very weak under juice. Most batteries come with 14awg or thicker - so that end is not weak - except for connector wire getting very warm if you keep thin 18awg under load and motor connectors may need looking at - why some techy's solder wire to motor I guess for what it is worth..... * SHS HI SPEED MOTOR * managed 27rps before fet/wire/deans on 11.1v afterwards though she hit 31.5rps Think that is mainly due to wiring/deans = 16% aprox (the fet would save contacts but feel the fet doesn't really increase rof or response on its own) So if you improved the tiny thin hollow like tamiya and didn't go nuts on the juice - say 7.4v lipo or 8.4v perhaps by doing one of the 3 weak links dean/wire/motor connector...... You "may" see a small increase of about say 6% to 8% top is my noobish scientific guess and this is probably worth jack but think that might sound aprox correct if you do just deans on their own DO NOT GO NUTZ ON STOCK WIRE & NO FET NB - please note the hi-rate of fire was a very hi speed motor and I do not run it at that speed I generally am happy with 19rof on 7.4v lipo don't expect your normal stock motor to break the speed barrier on its stock setup but should see a small tiny inmprovement or about 1 round per second quicker and slightly quicker response too

With the gun bag on table with shotgun.... looks like Giant Kiwi is in training for some other "career" in banking..... just kidding - nice little buy indeed

Raider - the pic is the long version as opposed to short version (*just means the length of barrel) Excellent choice btw So you have a G&G Raider - and yes it is rear wired (I was thinking without specifying model I was assuming it was carbine which is front) You maybe should just call it a Raider (L or S but don't matter) and we will know exactly now look at the rear of it - it comes with a crane stock anyway so I can only presume now that your old crane stock is either: Damaged or 2-toned...... Fitting another crane on there will not really increase you battery options you should already have a crane stock and to best of my knowledge they don't really make jumbo crane stocks - so battery options won't be any different or you could just "ahem" repair the one you have or renew it and stick to nunchuck batteries you probably already using you already have stock tube but if you go for fixed stubby perhaps then you should be able to use most batteries and not need stock tube either But to answer your question - yes just a basic crane stock will or "should" fit on the stock tube you already have - and simply slide off old & slide on new stock (wires remain - or should remain in tube) - no tools required just pull the latch down a bit further to release at end of tube

Hold up a sec - your G&G is deffo rear wired ??? find me a pic or just inform the model coz it should have a stock tube already but that don't mean it is deffo rear wired coz many front wired aeg's of various makes have stock tubes to attach the basic M4 stock's or crane or magpul types.... (Even some front wired aeg's can have a crane stock on there - my crap SRC Dragon has crane but front wired) I know it sounds daft but just checking ya G&G model is rear wired first But yeah if you have a stock tube then nigh any stock or crane stock "should" fit on there (a few really cheap guns have tight fitting stocks on slightly thinner stock tubes but generally they should all go on ok) But I can only presume you have a battery that is rear wired into tube itself if rear wired and no crane already

you mean it is a carbine battery up front handguard? or is it a Raider - rear wired on a crane stock? CM16 is really the ref to the entry level range by G&G CM16 - carbine is front wired like G26 & GC16 Mod0 (i think) CM16 Raider, CM18 (crane stock) & FireHawk are rear wired in tube (VS02 stock) remove the basic rear stock and you most deffo should have a stock tube already to save agro & improve the look you could fit a snide Magpul type stock on there for front wired models if you wish to fit larger stock for larger battery then a crane stock won't offer a great deal over a front wired one - plus if you are front wired the gearbox will need opening & rewire to rear..... once or if you have a rear wired gearbox then you could fit a fixed stubby stock is a good option but you lose the adjustable option - but refitting most size/shape batteries is no longer a chore and most batteries will fit in a fixed stubby very easily.... Cheapo fixed - full or stubby stocks can be bought on fleabay for under £20 delivered from Hong Kong (if ya get ya ar$e in gear coz China shuts down real soon for their New Year - aprox 7 - 10 days) Stock tube is removed for these and no longer needed as fixed just screws on back of receiver/gearbox Or you may have the more less conventional WASP or 100Y variations which don't have stock tubes

suppose you could get these: http://www.screwfix.com/p/bolle-cobra-clear-lens-safety-goggles/9744f but feel the strap might be a little too thin or not so robust for rough n tumbling about so get the others - not welders ones of course they'd be a real bitch for night time skirmish ( who's checking the rear ffs - Ray Charles & Stevie Wonder !!!! )

As they are £13 plus delivery you may be able to buy direct from local screwfix http://www.screwfix.com/p/bolle-cobra-safety-goggles/9484f I just got these as I wear glasses and can really get into my sights (just glasses & goggles mind not tried with lower mask but got in there real close) http://www.screwfix.com/p/bolle-atom-safety-goggles/4516f Will remains to be seen - haa "seen" get it - ahem remains to be seen how much they fog up though when sweating like pig (squealing like one too if truth be known) B U T don't think of getting these: http://www.screwfix.com/p/uvex-ultravision-green-lens-welding-goggles-black-frame/69182 coz you won't see $hit out of them coz they are for welding !!! (max eye protection or what factor 4000)

cool - so "probably" a standard M4 or M4-ish one around that size could work the "rough" chart didn't take long and could come in handy as ref point to check/update against well I'm keeping it to hand, and you can have a little measure up on M4 type nozzles now seen shs red M4 as being 21.47mm in descriptions if that is worth much love G&G

cool - so "probably" a standard M4 or M4-ish one around that size could work the "rough" chart didn't take long and could come in handy as ref point to check/update against well I'm keeping it to hand, and you can have a little measure up on M4 type nozzles now love G&G

oooopsie for double post anyway updated my own list on pc with Lozart's actual Lonex list bound to a good thing to check/measure stuff against.... Can see now the importance of getting right or near as damn it coz they really can vary a bit & possible to lose a good seal/feeding many thanks for info sir

buy slightly cheaper stuff is my motto, I ain't that good yet to warrant a high end TM like just passing ya driving test is my take on almost anything you starting out with yeah you could get a nice new or newish BMW but most of us run with more down to earth stuff first time around Plus if it breaks and you can't fix it or f*ck it up even more - scrap it and start again or cut ya losses with ya old banger motor and get another one slowly working ya way up towards your higher end motor or aeg Would lay money that your first time gearbox service doesn't quite go to plan coz them guys who do it all the time are so good they make it look easy yup - only a few parts in there but my first few box's didn't work too good when I first started tinkering (still got a lot to learn myself but just saying about my take on things - up to you or owner what they do/buy)

I would say most non hit takers in general are hirers but they all new to this and may not quite grasp one shot to elbow or gun is out if no secondary (at least 4 shots in COD - this ain't cod, or elbow ain't fatal - is in airsoft) Hirers don't bother me one bit, turn up at a site with hardly any regulars and you will be glad of any more players to avoid cancelling the day..... One time we had a group of complete absolute f*ckwit noobs that were just so thick non-hit taking was the least of our worries..... They kept lifting up the masks out on the field - not just in dead zone (still keep masks on in dead zone) In the game itself they were half behind cover and raising their masks that other players had to keep stopping to shout over to them and marshals - WTF YA DOING ??? They got bollocked but still one or two kept doing this $hit, even after being made to sit out for a round, but they kinda started to get the message by afternoon though all of us were watching those f*ckwits very closely - thankfully they never returned