Sitting Duck

its 7.2v old skool he has probably got in there - a lipo could be worth looking at 7.4v lipo or 8,4v - not 9.6v ffs Yeah I noticed his guns were mainly plinkers but they might be fine to do plinking with and I don't wanna be too harsh on OP coz I made same mistakes like many at first yes I thought could of got a nice starter ?&? M4 - trying to reduce my usual same ol' same ol' replies but if all he is doing is plinking then they are probably ok to mess about with though if OP was gonna get into it more he really should look at going up a level

2 words sir..... BIN IT soz if that sounds harsh but it won't last - won't last very long if you increase voltage too much it has a plastic - brittle plastic gearbox and youtube is full of them self destructing on 11.1v lipo's so stick to 7.2v or 8.4v - or 7.4v lipo but that is it the stock will probably have a phillips screw - remove back of stock probably bast to slide the poor 416 style crane stock back and latch it further then it will slide off completely down that tube will be a phillips screw to tighten the stock tube back on refit once tightened etc.... that is presuming you got the crane 416 stock on that bulldog (some 805's which that is rebadged have a fixed stock on them) btw I bought that gun - its ok for plinking but wouldn't spend too much money n time on it

as ya in uk & 2-tone....... cheap green gas non blowback pistol: http://www.onlybbguns.co.uk/hg-104-m92f-beretta-hfc-hg-104-m92-gas-pistol.html#.VXSekVKeYQk 10% discount off with RC10 perhaps add extra mag as it is a reduced price bottle of gas and just go with that instead

you "could" try 2 x stick or thin block batteries in parallel ??? 2 x 1500mah 25c - cut and join 2 positives together then join 2 negatives together 3000mah 25c battery - still 25c you don't get a 50c burst - its still 25c but bigger capacity This is not as perfect as a dedicated 3000mah lipo but if range/size options is a problem then it is a possible consideration as you might source a battery for each crane/nunchuk "tube" then link up 2 x 1000mah or 1300mah to make a better lasting capacity perhaps (same battery types work best obviously if possible) reckon this could be a starting point: http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=44772 now one twin stick could fit down one tube..... so you could fit these down each tube = 2 x 1200 = 2400mah 25c if linked in parallel or just fit two batteries in stock and might be able to quickly swap over from one 1200 to other when gun slows down should last you the morning - lunchtime replace - rinse and repeat etc...... but reckon if that battery don't fit in there then get another stock

c'mon - don't give up the ghost just yet.... http://www.greekairsoft.gr/manuals/manual.asp?Manufacturer=CYMA&Filename=Cyma+Glock+18C+CM030+Manual.pdf pdf - page 6 or 6 is exploded diagram - maybe that might help to perform some sort of fix or bodge for mag and might show semi/auto selector possibles - jeez what ya got to lose if gun is boned as it currently stands

agree on that - the sometimes bit though might be more of when somebody has played for a while and then replaces their starter guns & starter loadout with better high end quality stuff That is just my take on it as I have only got my ukara a year ago so maybe next time I may look at the better stuff to replace my own cheapo bits n bobs. Not knocking anybody's stuff especially if been playing for a number of years and replaced or worked their way up Actually who the hell am I to judge - which I'm not btw if people wanna treat themselves to good quality stuff first time around - its their money it was merely my own personal take on it and soz if OP wishes to buy a quality bit of kit instead of cheapo starter stuff

cheapo FAST type helmet works ok for me http://www.taiwangun.com/en/fast-helmet-replica-black-8fields?from=listing&campaign-id=21 (actually my son nicked that & I'm stuck with even cheaper pith "star wars" helmet) soz it ain't in UK but ya get the idea of a cheapo one will do especially for first lid perhaps some of the more expensive ones have clicky adjuster inside - but all do same sort of job tbh - wtf is gonna really notice or care ???

Naaahhhh - I've given up hiding them guns now from her Now I just hide the missus - lot easier

kind of - but in general I talk 99.999% pure bollox but I do mess with them a bit too much (mainly coz I'm $hit at airsoft - but if I get out more I might improve and become just crap at airsoft)

The strange thing is us male species always want crap that is bigger better faster and much more bad a$$........ Even before many people are paying for their first gun they have already gone nutz looking for what "UPGRADES" they can/should get make a gun fire faster quicker longer range etc...... (then go skirmishing at a cqb site - jeeeez) How good your gun is - it isn't measured just by how it performs compared to that £500 gunthat guy has it is measured by how much fun or enjoyment you have with - yes a decent-ish gun helps but £50 or £500 it is still a toy gun that is the bare bones of it you can make almost any gun better if you chuck money and time at it - just like many things or buy a slightly better gun - but then betcha you will look at upgrades for that better gun - jeeez Improve & perform better....... - what the gun or the person using it ? A good player can still kick ar$e with almost any gun, often good awareness, tactics, stealth, player skill etc... have next to f*ck all to do with the gun when you think about it yes a good gun helps - but a half decent out of box does ok - its the player sometimes that needs the upgrades not always the gun This not aimed at OP or anybody with higher end guns but think it is more the owner/buyer or if you like all of us that feel we MUST get our guns upgraded almost straight away - we don't, often just use it for a while and get on with it if it breaks or you feel it ain't as good as you expected or perform properly - then look at upgrade to better gun or getting gun tweaked/upgraded etc..... I admit I need to stop pi$$balling about with guns and actually get out there more and friggin' use them - I will own up to that one

dunno wtf it is but gotta likey the colour scheme

I fully promote doing it in stages - much like passing ya driving test/1st car etc.... A good starter gun will serve you well and is ideal way to learn how to maintain & repair/service your gun (if you screw up - no biggy) That good starter will serve you well and always handy to have a spare or two or three....... One day if fully bitten by the bug and have become a little more experienced or better player/driver then move onto a better higher end gun if you wish to same goes for loadout n stuff - but this is just my take on it and I don't judge anybody with higher or lower end guns besides that spotty 12yr old kid will get us all with his £50 JBBG in the end

cheap piston o-rings that seem to work (metric) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271015542147?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT bought some imperial ones that were supposed to be correct spec - nah not such a nice seal Galaxy MP5k + some bits n bobs from Gunfire on its way (shs pistons blue 3 steel tooth pistons + a couple of 50/50 ones, v2 switch ahh forgot rest but its more crap bits for spares box) trying to go easy - well for the moment anyway

just a pair of boots or trainer boots and hire is best advice it ain't as expensive as paintball to try it out for a day bag of ammo is like a tenner for 5,000 bb's - plenty for 2 days shooting don't rush out and buy a 2-tone pile of crap from a website with BB in its name ffs you need to spend £100 to £150 on a starter gun - but try it first stuff like a full face mask will be supplied - probably G36 gun all you need is a pair of boots & a bit of common sense for safety get out there & get shooting

its different - but then so am I actually I'd say I'm unique though many others refer to me as some odd looking mofo

looks to me like some leftovers arranged near each other n not assembled together 101% how the f*ck do ya adjust the motor height don't look like mag will fit in properly either some guns had an orgy and this wasn't the by-product of the result it was the friggin' afterbirth ffs abortion - heck a backstreet abortion in my book some bell-end toying with the idea of AK L96 love child... what do ya think ????? f*ckin hideous and that is being kind

Hmmmmm - tough one coz I personally haven't used guarder springs - only stock and/or shs & element what is gun shooting at - has the AOE been done? a m110 will put out aprox 365 - BUT if a box hop nozzle is perfect seal a m100 will get close to that instead of its "supposed" 328fps or 100m/sec figure Often to compenstate for slight - and I mean slight air loss a 105 or 110 can be installed to get to 350 trouble is sometimes springs can be pushing out a smidge more than say 110m/sec and good seals can take this to even 380fps+ when AOE is done you can expect a drop of 10 to 15fps but normally when this is carried out the seals in box are checked and improved upon eg: good double o-ring cylinder head plus possible ptfe tape wrap, o-ring nozzle, new well lubed piston o-ring, polish cylinder etc etc...... so in effect though you lose15fps you claw back most of this with better seals now if a bearing spring guide is fitted over a cheap std one then you can expect to add 10fps on top - so you could end up with a great sealed box on say 105% of its original fps even though you lost 15fps doing AOE - if you really get it sweet Still ain't finished coz if you fitted another nozzle with o-ring and didn't check/compare old & new the new nozzle may be a smidge shorter and you no longer get a good or decent seal against hop bucking and so your fps can plummet or too long nozzle and it may create feeding issues - jeez it is bloomin' nightmare if you don't take your time to check stuff And all this stuff on springs n fps means nothing if you do not have a chrono to test your results coz as I mentioned the final figure can really really vary a hell of a lot I'd do the best possible checks you can on old spring first - really ensure your piston hardly moves once past the cylinder port and I mean really hardly moves - big difference between a good seal and a great seal AOE must be done - not should, it must be done if running a gun @ 20+rps not a case if it piston will snap at pick up tooth - the very big first lug on piston it ain't a case of if it will - it is a case of when it will snap off - so AOE must be done in guns firing into 20's imho All springs will lose some of their tension over time - aprox 10% perhaps in 6 months eg: gun fires 330 new but later on it is dropping to 300 - though some may also be wear on seals too One day I'll get around to getting say a couple of m130's - get then shoved into an old shredded piston using a few spacers to compress spring a little more inside piston say a further 5mm each end bolt the spring into the piston with a 100mm M6 nut + bolt - with 2 x 5mm spacers so its really compressed then leave it for a fortnight or month to lose some ooomph..... this might lose a bit say 10% = a m117 spring power, short stroke a box/piston 2 teeth to arrive at aprox 350 coz spring has lost a bit of its initial tension then there is a good chance that m117 power will maintain its power very reliable & for a longer period of time - well that is the theory one day I may get around to testing if it actually works out Springs are a bit of a lottery there are different types but I tend to use the std consistent coil springs with a decent thickness of wire some have more coils in centre so initial start of compression is easier and once piston is moving the tension escalates in the middle onwards yeah soz can't say yes or no to other spring - get gun running ok and see what happens first is my guess at this moment

fleabay - search for "compression springs" should be able to get a bag or box of 50 or so springs for under a fiver delivered may need cutting/stretching a tension - pull spring type but worth a shot or you may find something in a weird place like a clicky bic biro pen or something soz can't help on semi selector issue as I ain't broke or dismantled my cyma - yet failing that grab a cheapo replacement from TWG or patrolbase: http://www.taiwangun.com/en/cm-030-tan-cm?from=listing&campaign-id=19 - yeah I know its tan but cheap as chips http://www.patrolbase.co.uk/airsoft/asg-glock-18c-electric-airsoft-pistol.htm#.VXG0b0bqfIU - ahhh crap its out of stock atm (same stuff just rebranded cyma to ASG - cheers to sp00n for review n info on this)

Yes they say SHS torque nd speed motors do run warm/hot but my feeling is that these motors are running under more load/cycling faster etc..... I bought some really cheap motors and they REALLY ran hot - even just on their own outside of box testing http://eud.dx.com/product/long-high-speed-airsoft-aeg-motor-844112910#.VXGgfUbqfIU magnets are mentally strong but think the build or assembly is pi$$ poor - even polarity on both long n short was labelled wrongly the case was bigger and was too tight in an ak motor frame that motor height adjustment wasn't smooth so I have strppied and rebuilt the short one into an old 28tpa ferrite to make a frankentorque which runs cooler than the cheapo one did still to do a proper test on it but seems a beef of a motor and really really hard to turn by hand now.... Still gonna stick to my fav Big Dragon M160's and wait for shipping To the OP - make sure piston is not all full metal teeth - you gotta have a few plastic teeth if going faster if full metal piston is used and you get PE it will make a big mess coz no weak point to break/shred piston (imagine all steel teeth/gears/pinion on motor smashing into each other - that mess will be costly - smashed 12:1 gears etc...) As you go faster n faster it creates more n more issues to deal with I have learned the hard way you can't just chuck in this n that - often stuff will bust unless you do other work etc..... As you may go past 25rps once wired up - you "may" get two other things happen Pre Engagement or get closer to the risk of it on a m100 spring setup Double firing on semi also may start to occur, especially on a fresh higher charge or C rating battery if these symptoms happen then you have to move onto more work like looking at a higher spring: M110 or M120 spring and coz your over fps you have to shortstroke a tooth or two or three etc..... Shortstroking is a bit of guess work for many often each tooth will reduce fps by aprox 6.5% - don't ask but I need to get out more Airlabs highly recommend shortstroking a little on the more tweaked guns but like I said as people go faster it involves more additional work therefore if people can be content with 20 to 25rps there shouldn't be a massive amount of work/problems creeping in 20rps should be do-able on stock - nearly 25 can be done on stock gears if you really really really use thick as f*ck wire soldered direct to motor on a v3 often stock gears are ok for most or perhaps use 14:1 or 13:1, 12:1 is maybe a too higher ratio imho and 16:1 gears are really 17.5 ratios so I got mugged OP needs to check bevel height and ensure piston has some plastic teeth & AOE etc.... when rewiring the box coz once it is rewired on thicker stuff you may gain a small percentage - up to say 5% it probably will be fine but there is a very slight tiny risk of getting to say 27+rps and sailing closer to PE more so if it is a fresh 7.4v off charge it will be pushing out 8.4v+ etc.... I'm sure new wire will greatly help but check a few things when you got your box open

Soz for double post but am trying to break it up a bit........ http://www.poisonappleairsoft.com/product/poisonapple-airsoft-silver-wire-cable-2m-upgrade/ that is da $hit you want if fitting 16awg silicone wire is tight inside ya gearbox I could link to the stuff I use but not giving all my secrets away and you have to buy my stuff in about 10m lengths anyway coz it ain't cheap To anybody else reading this - it takes a fair bit of work to get ya gun firing faster n faster You box will go faster.... it WILL f*ck up faster it WILL wear faster it WILL run hotter as more more heat is created - yup you guessed it - faster So with all this in mind I strongly urge people to go slowly as you tweak your gun and learn as you go - often you get to a point where in my opinion around 25rps is plenty and a good balance of tweaking vs durability to OP - rewire box and on motor connectors - hold upright and blob solder each side of elbow don't blob solder on it coz it may run down into connector and not fit on motor contact (I did that and had to cut/refit another connector - so hold upright and surplus solder runs back to wire - not connector) If after all that and she is still running quite hot under normal use then I would suggest you check shimming... YES your box may be running sweet but if the bevel gear is set low then as motor is wound inwards it pushes bevelm, it pushes that poor bevel too much and it runs tight against the bushing/bearing - creating more strain/heat This is not your normal schreechy sound but it deffo puts additional load on motor..... On the motor - it is a very strong neodym torque motor and will just grunt along turning but strain/wear/heat is taking place So ensure bevel is shimmed perhaps a smidge high rather than a smidge low I say a smidge - and I mean a smidge - normally on quality gears you will not need hardly anything on top of bevel the thinnest thinnest shim on bushings - max or maybe 2 x thinnest shims on bearings - max any more and by my reckoning you are shimming bevel too low You should check and really pay attention to bevel gear height in your gearbox - every box is different but check out some guides coz this crap is important in high speed boxes - and not so fast boxes if you want them to run well Think that just about covers it from me for the moment - but heck I'm still breaking n learning myself soz if I went way way overboard and don't worry if some of this is just pure crap 99.9% of what I type is just that

battery will be ok @ 20c - kinda of scraping it a little on the higher beefy setups as I run 25c to 35c on my guns - some go nutz and run 45c+ batteries but c'mon..... on that setup me thinks you may want 35c tbh but that is not the problem me thinks its ya wire holding ya back AND it is a beefy setup for UK sites with our not so mental rof & rps as over the pond it is capable of hitting 30+ on 7.4v or 40-heck 45+ on 11,1v and probably go BANG !!!! @ 25rps you do start to get a risk of Pre Engagement creeping in on really heavy slow returning pistons though it shouldn't occur until you go over 30 - but it could be getting close Hence the PE warnings about pushing guns too far - trust me and plenty others on here we have busted a few pistons along the way - well I've broke plenty of guns taking the mega pi$$ To be honest I think if box was rewired you should of got near 20 rps on stock 18:1 gears and would of been fine for many people worst rip off gears are in fact 16:1 gear sets - recently found out they are aprox 17.5:1 so htf can they call them 16:1 or 16.65:1 - jeez that ain't a 10% but only 5% gear ratio change over stock gears it will still get warm coz it will be doing lots more work so even if motor/mosfet can keep up it will be running at least twice possible a bit more than stock 30rps compared to say 14rps out of the box - so yeah it will get warm but hopefully we try to give it as least resistance as possible You gotta rewire it first and see if she runs better - probably need to go up to 25c at least at some point but depends on room available for battery I guess - but deffo rewire first n see

It will certainly help - it won't make matters worse and I presume you have got deans and not Small Tamiya small tamiya, multiple breaks/joins in wiring, thinner stock wire, and the motor connectors needs a possible blob on 90 degree bend/elbow You need the thickest wire from battery - fet & motor you can get in there fet signal wires - tiny thin crap - heck 26awg is fine though wouldn't go any thinner deans - least joins/breaks in wire etc.... - then motor connectors is next resistance Sounds like a v2 - it was v3 I say consider solder wires to motor BUT only if all running 101% sweet but that would be on v3 - if v2 don't solder wires direct to motor coz its a git to service gearbox later (just try to blob the bends - or the connectors will just blow like a thin blade fuse under stress) Your setup on 12:1 & high torque motor will unleash 30+ rps on a 7.4v - 25c to 35c battery (if you are way below that it is coz there is lots or resistance/choking it) That setup you are fitting together is quite a beefy setup - and I strongly advise: DO NOT CONNECT 11.1V TO GUN OR PRE ENGAGEMENT MAY TAKE PLACE !!!!!! No offense but doubt if you did all your homework coz 11.1v will go too fast and smash f*ck out of piston/box 12:1 gears might have been a little too much perhaps(12.65:1 ratio me thinks) you have effectively increased cycle speed by 50% on gears & also the neo motor another 40 to 50% so you have doubled the stock speed at least onm old gears n motor but wiring is still stock - jeez oh n spam on semi - keep firing on just semi say 2 shots per second for a minute (120 single shots in a minute) Then you will know what a warm gun is like - it is like a mega stress test some mosfet guy on youtube does to test his work (the guy really knows his stuff - way more than I will ever know) Actually don't do it for too long - actually don't do it at all until you have rewired and reduced resistance points like I said earlier (your stock wiring will deffo not be able to cope) SOZ - mega OTT reply but that is some serious oooooomphy setup - ya gonna get a bit of heat especially if spamming - DEFINATELY WITH $HIT WIRE and only doing the job half done so to speak

or two, or three.........

Build it, but paint it vivid 2tone orange/black Then own everybody with a JBBG looking gun And wipe their smug grins of there snobby faces (well that is what I wanna do for laughs)