Sitting Duck

as long as you can't get the thing off whatever ya use then you can replace it with a philips or something as long as the dremmel ain't called upon - that is the wtf option (That bitch IS GONNA COME OFF NOW - forget the consequences - it's personal now)

most sites don't give a crap anyway "it's your gun do wtf you want with it" - they told me about painting a 2-tone legal wise - hmm well if you have defense then you could be ok stripping or replacing 2-tone but then the bit about modifying a IF to RIF but then you have a defense (vcra is not always as crystal clear as it could be) tbh - who really gives a f*ck, you should be 18+ to buy a IF let alone a RIF but then it gets to a kid being "gifted" from an adult and all that.... it always provokes debates and sometimes heated ones so ain't gonna go there most important thing is DON'T BE A DICK - whatever colour your gun is keep it covered, don't wave it about in public, no mag/bb's in gun - that is main thing to worry about tape is your friend - heck a low tack tape like masking tape and spray what you like (if you are that paranoid about breaking law - peel off masking tape - taaa dahhh - what repainted 2-tone ???) Fairy Power or just go for it Krylon or replace bits n bobs coz uhhm ergh they broke/wore out whatever - just don't be a dick

tried some Premium Rockets.28's quickly on the 350fps cm515 - bad idea at the time in a fight (they dropped so much quicker so spent time in a fight trying to adjust hop and was taken out very quickly) but when we got back a bit of messing & tweaking and yup they flew very well n straight my biggest critic - my son said that's bloody true n straight but need a longer garden now and he is a fussy so and so. Gonna deffo get some some more .25's and see about some more .28's too maybe

7/64" allen key comes out at 2.771mm to 2.8mm it is rounded up to decent cheap imperial allen key set or it "might" be a Torx, or a Torx "might" just grip it bastid small tiny ar$e scews

what is this working out at ??? http://gunfire.pl/product-eng-1152205869-FC-SMG-Submachine-Gun-Replica.html £75 ???? NO - must resist the urge to buy yet more guns ffs

looks a little similar to the Echo 1 GAT that finally went on sale recently (well to me it does) http://echo1usa.com/x/the-echo1-general-assault-tool-gat/ OOOPPPSSSssssssss my bad they do the Spectre too - same meat it looks to me http://echo1usa.com/x/echo1-spectre-rdp-available-now/ one or two people on Airsoft Mechanics have ripped it to bits to make a typical AM nutter rof build is is a kinda bespoke or altered gearbox I think based on v3 but all/most bits are normal aeg stuff like regular v3's well that was the GAT - dunno about spectre coz only just 5 mins ago found out they did that too maybe Evike or Airsoft GI order time as they do ship to UK. (custom's could be a 8itch but deffo different)

Maybe I like living on the edge..... But sometimes I don't use a lipo charging bag - actually I don't own one BUT - before anybody just thinks they can ultra fast boost charge any battery lipo or nimah.... my chargers only trickle charge @ 800mah to 1000mah PLUS I do watch them - not like watching paint dry.... But they are charged out of harms way on an old bench/worktop with me keeping an eye on them frequently, not coz I'm paranoid but coz I want it to finish charging to recharge another one (c'mon you pile of lipo pooh charger - hurry the heck up) I feel as long you buy decent brands, look after them, if they look suspect don't use them basic common sense with any electrical

Get the gun chrono'd properly or record the sound/wav file and run it through audacity on pc or something..... we or I said this before in a previous post - the readings you are getting just don't add up I'm done on this for now, got up to squeeze my lemon and lost some beauty sleep (which I really desperately need a LOT of btw) so I'm going back to bed and fairly sure I'm not gonna lose any more sleep over this atm soz but I strongly strongly feel the readings are out or the gun is already SS DSG'd or something

The wire I'm using is thicker than 16awg turnigy by my calculations it is close to 15awg's conductive surface area silver plated copper wire eventually run as 1 wire for positive direct to motor negative - only break was at fet and had its own dedicated fet supply & signal wire which is run in shielded twin core ptfe or something there are no extra joins at all in the final wiring to account for any additional resistance the AK was the fastest 18:1 going from around 22 to 24.8 I mainly think from soldering direct to motor v2's are soldered at the elbows of motor connectors as they do weaken when bent at right angles solder applied top & bottom of connectors to maintain good connection/conductivity or whatever you wanna call it So I really can't see how I can make the wiring much better than the above Unless the 35c lipo's are really really holding me back - but saw ittle improvement between 25c & 35c 7.4v and LiFe's just lost any real middle ground they gained as a filler between 7.4v & 11.1v

I do enjoy the times we don't quite see eye to eye but we all know it is when it is all done properly the response really improves I'm gonna leave it as is for now coz I'm trying to work out where I'm going wrong atm

That device is f*cked I said that before the absolute best best best I have hit with 18:1 and 7.4v is 24.8rps that is with meter tails soldered direct to motor on a v3 so for 35 to show up on stock gears and 7.4v and full stroke even with slippery as f*ck modify ceramic bearings & Lonex motor that just rewrites all my findings........ unless you have got a mofo super frankenspeed motor or a dsg setup The HC05 dsg hit 41rps on 7.4v so I'm finding it hard to swallow a regular gun can get so close to it my recent 12:1 setup hit 33rps on 7.4v - so if your gun is beating that then I really really gotta get me some 60c lipo's asap

you are getting 40rps already ??? and the gun still lives ???? - let alone feeds ok if that gun is cycling at 40rps on full stroke piston with a stock spring heck even with a m120 full stroke I'm doing something very very wrong coz I've had numerous smashed boxes taking the pi$$ like than on full stroke I'm finding that very hard to believe that she is still living at that speed - harder to imagine than the response/switch on time of the mosfet On a full stroke piston you would need a mofo spring to get a piston to return quick enough before the sector tries to grab the piston again Not tried it myself but reckon getting to say m140 min but probably still close so reckon m150 to avoid PE on full stroke pistons but only on guns like AK47 & 455mm+ barrels would you need full or fullish stroke rather than SS for say 400mm barrels & below with a full stroke - forget the cylinder porting the full stroke energy being released on m140/150 would place your gun at near 500fps plus the extra strain on motor would reduce that 40rps Can't get my head round 40rps if not full stroked unless mofo spring in there like I said Everytime I started to take the pi$$ it ended in tears very very quickly 40rps on 11.1v would indicate a 27rps on 7.4v so to achieve that figure alone you are running a neo motor with 13:1 gears 27rps is starting to get close if still using a m100 full stroke setup so I can't get my head round it that you can hit 40 unless you already have SS or dsg or mofo spring etc....

Not gonna get into a debate on it but fet is an additional device with additional wiring often sited further backwards.... then the current would flow from the fet to the motor after the fet's own delay or switch on time even in nano/milliseconds it prevents trigger arcing/carbon which would cause resistance etc in switching but like for like as you wouldn't fit a mosfet when the trigger contacts were shot you would replace switch - but on clean good contacts under stock conditions at least the fet does not in my mind improve trigger response.... as stated above additional device, additional wiring and has its own delay or switch on time burnt out contacts are different - the point I am making is that many people assume the mosfet is improving trigger response it on its own is not - it is safely allowing the use of higher juice to the motor using thicker wire/connectors take two exact brand new guns and a soldering iron........ fit just a mosfet to one gun and to the other fit deans instead of small tamiya to other gun & battery Then dean's gun will show trigger response than the mosfet only gun maybe in time as carbon builds up on deans gun this may get so bad in terms of resistance the mosfet gun triggers faster but like for like new clean contacts the mosfet will not show any improvement in my mind like I stated above trouble is even if it did provide a smidge more, then often people would take it that most of the response must be down to the fet it is not it is when all the items are upgraded and the fet operates to prevent additional resistance building up at switch that trigger response is improved and maintained through the larger wire/connectors with little resistance The mosfet is there as I said to prevent resistance taking place - on its own it does not in my book when fitted improve response over time it helps maintain trigger response - I will admit that but I can't see how on its own with new contacts the response will be improved in the fet Vs deans gun scenario

word of strong advice.... test on 7.4v first - especially if a neodym motor is in there (or high speed gears - if using both neo and 13:1 then I advise ordering up new parts anyway - even on 7.4v coz that could hit 30) whatever she is firing at - BPS app or record sound and count spikes on pc etc....... then get a rough idea what rof is on 7.4v first 11.1v will be 50% more..... if hitting 20rps on 7.4v you will expect to hit aprox 30rps on 11.1v Warning 25+ very slight risk but 30 good chance of PE (depends on spring strength returning piston faster/slower and also weight of piston - lighter is faster return/ swiss cheese crap etc..) if you used a plastic toothed piston it will just strip but all metal rack - no weak point to shred and it will really go bang due to all metal teeth gears etc..... you could smash your piston to f*ck AND YOUR GEARS AND YOUR MOTOR PINION GEAR IF ALL METAL ON 11.1v no $hit - it can happen if you go too nutz without homework on stock m100 or m105 springs luckily I learnt the hard way but with plastic teeth shredding, now I have a rough-ish idea what to expect so I got a reasonable idea of when I can and when I can't use all steel piston rack (built up a collection of boned pistons to attain this knowledge of what NOT to do) faster n faster stuff at 30+ has to have shortstroking and M110 - m120 is safer with 2 teeth removed I got a rough maths table I think that works out about right - will know more as I build n bone more

Stopped using Royal Mail for 2kg's+ as they just took the pi$$ on Spec Delivery up to 2kg was say £6 a few years back over 2kg it jumped to £18 !!! so an adsl modem router I was sending a m8 in desperate need for next day went in 2 boxes.... as it was the psu that was heaviest & router thingy went in proper box with cables disc etc.... Right Mr Postal counter - explain that to me.... 2 x parcels £12 & 2 tracking crap numbers.... 1 parcel @ £18 simple easier to process etc.... Since then I use Parcel Pete / UK Mail / iPost Parcels 98% of stuff gets there very next day - trackable with 1hr expected delivery time plus drop off Friday afternoon and they try for Saturday delivery at no extra charge the odd discounts codes pop up on various sites like hot UK deals etc..... Ffffforget Royal Mail bell ends

me thinks not - go for 60c instead - jeeeez I'm content with 25 to 35c performance atm plus sticking to 7.4v and squeeze out every last drop (without the pips or pulp)

Capacitors ???? nah that is old skool way of boosting ya charge on crappy nimah's really don't think anybody still does that - they just fit bigger and higher burst lipo's (some yanks go nutz on 14.8v - jjeeeezzz how fast ya need to go chaps) if ya got lipo you got plenty of mojo a lot of these guides are old but the fet malarky is still in use often many still use 3034 as best airsoft fet the capacitors - like for holding charge is obselete with lipo's now being the norm they can unleash juice quicker tha you can rip open a carton of Del Monte or Ocean Spray

I'm no expert - far from it well even further from it when you see how the real techy pro's can fit these basic 3034's inside their gearboxes: yes I am but a humble trainee apprentice noob actually still think fitting inside a box is not a very wise option if I wanna change out a basic to AB fet or even a prgrammable one at least I don't have to open gearbox up but maybe for some compact guns - even AEP's people have managed to squeeze in a fet in the tighest of places clever mofo's out there - G&G fet dept should take note

it is to prevent any back surge of current or something so the fet bible says..... I got an alternative spec tvs diode coz could not locate exact model but similar spec bollox - makes it a bit bulky but like I say I often use stubby fixed stocks for good size cheap block batteries in M4's v2 will need box opening to install wiring for fet v3 can be fitted without needing to open up gearbox like in V2's major decision is how thick the wire you can use and where to locate the fet itself on its own the fet does jack $hit except protect the contacts on heavier juice it is an additional device to switch on so in reality I guess it adds a few nano seconds in a normal stock gun it does not imho give you faster trigger response or make you more attractive to women etc..... it is when you rewire with thicker wire + deans that the fet comes into its own and it is the other bits that give the faster response not the mosfet - the fet just allows us to safely switch higher juice for heavier loads on juicy motors etc.... That is where the trigger response comes from - not the fet itself the fet just manages the bigger juice safely keeping your contacts looking good rather than deep fried

linky for the way I do it: http://ncairsoft.org/forum/showthread.php?7516-Rusty65-s-MOSFET-building-guide and also same stuff here: http://unconventional-airsoft.com/2009/08/26/how-to-make-a-basic-mosfet-switch/ diode is a pain but they use one - so who am I to argue if you are making one - make a few.... for what it is worth - the #6 bolts equate to our M3.5 bolts yes M3.5 - M4 is a bit too big to go through fet eyelet and M3 is a bit thin M3.5 is the bolts used is electric socket/switches in ya house but you need a m3.5 nut spring washer That is the usual basic fet gospel, some use other mosfet's but the 3034 is said to be one of the best ones available well that is the way I do it.... only minor difference toi Rusty65 is that I wrap the resistor across fet - leave resistor wire excess for now... position the diode leg the right leg where it goes - then wrap the excess around diode leg to hold in place & solder same for signal wire resistor - fitted by wrapping the excess around it & solder just a bit extra help holding it all together when soldering them to fet legs get the bits ready & shaped - wrapped together - ttsszz ttsszz - fet done repeat for other 2 or 3 fets - sorted

RS are cheap for 3034's if you buy 10 they are like £1:52 or something... http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/mosfet-transistors/6887204/?searchTerm=IRLB3034PBF&relevancy-data=636F3D3226696E3D4931384E4B6E6F776E41734D504E266C753D656E266D6D3D6D61746368616C6C7061727469616C26706D3D5E5B5C707B4C7D5C707B4E647D2D2C2F255C2E5D2B2426706F3D313326736E3D592673743D4D414E5F504152545F4E554D4245522677633D424F5448267573743D49524C423330333450424626&sra=p Is where I bought mine from Cheaper than farnell and free ship on £30 or something like that Get some wire n some other bits, maybe get a m8 to go halves with ya etc.... People think it's a lot of messing about, best thing is make a few at a time once you got iron up to temp. Not much effort really, besides you gotta do same amount of soldering n care when fitting a pre-made mosfet

Yeah you gotta go £100 for decent gun s/hand But tbh you could get a gun on its last legs £123 Raider is best option 99.999999999% cheap guns are $hit I have found