Sitting Duck

What "can" sometimes happen is that you store the gun with it pre-cocked by accident over time the spring will lose tension a considerable bit and can drop to under 300 if left like this for a while 2 things to do on finishing for day when you return home to store gun (or just leave it in bag - store gun is a term loosely used but mine are always wrapped in silk blankets) anyway - empty mags as if stored with spring wound hi caps or mid-caps they can lose tension and efficiency often with hi-caps you gradually find you no longer get 20-30 or so shots on a full winding and this drops the crappy half a dozen also fire gun on semi twice they say to help ensure gun/spring/gears are parked correctly with min tension what you are trying to do is leave it pre-cocked/wound for a little while to deliberately lose a smidge of tension and no you wouldn't lose much if any real tension by a game or two the cm.515 was still 348/349 and I did just adjust a smidge more hop to get her under (ain't gonna clean barrel just yet either or I could be back over the limit, and forget a tbb in there for a while) Lipo battery I'd leave it partly charged and charge it night before game but don't listen to me too much about lipo's note this was dodgy looking lipo - crapped myself as it sparked hissed dropping it in hallway then bursting into flames kicked it out the front door friday night but scorched the carpet - missus not happy but on flip side now got the go ahead to buy a ton of new lipo's but take it from me - if they look a bit dodgy or more just a little puffy replace them this was a cheapo brand x one and not a proper decent make like Zippy, Turnigy, Vapex, WE etc.... f*ck me all smoke alarms going off and stink - maybe make a claim on insurance or she will get new hall carpet could of been a LOT LOT worse - so yeah a little care IS needed in handling/storing/charging lipo's (another lesson learnt - but this was a moody battery btw so don't all rush out and build asbestos charging rooms - just common sense)

not 100% certain but sure you can toggle 3 or 1 shot mode I know it must be very anti-geezer-ish but maybe it might be worth a look in the man, manu, - damn it is so hard to say it M A N U A L - manual - done it, woohoo that is always a tricky one to say let alone look at & use and yeah - the new receivers and the new craney stock looks damn nice

nice stock on them and the revised polymer receivers look nice - no big white CM got their own special unique electronic trigger switch unit & fet is that the 3 round burst mosfet in there on the new SRL models very nice looking gun (I'm sure their fet's and the new trigger switch is gonna be ok)

AAARRRRGHHHHHHHHHH jbbg ok don't bother with old school nimah's no more http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=44626 They come from EU but will arrive quickly by end of week get at least 3 or even 4 of them at that crazy price - wait a few minutes and price drops to under £4 I think stuff one down each tube and you are deffo covered for a long morning fire fight replace these at lunchtime anyway and head out with fresh mofo's for afternoon a cheap lipo charger can be bought for about £10 to £15 search B3 or B6 lipo charger but get from a genuine UK supplier - b6 will need a seperate psu to power it b3 is a straight forward 240v one http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Imax-RC-B3AC-2S-3S-LiPo-RC-Battery-Balance-Charger-with-Uk-Plug-UK-STOCK-/161762393796?hash=item25a9ca3ec4 also look over at component shop too http://www.componentshop.co.uk/batteries/airsoft/li-po-packs/74v YOU have to double - triple check any battery you buy fits in your gun correctly if unsure measure existing ones or make up a battery shape from cardboard/paper/sticky back plastic/washing up bottle etc.... get a grown up to help you using round nosed scissors and see if they dummy battery you made up fits in there then decide if enough room for wires etc....... but YOU need to check - so don't sue me if you buy a battery that is too big to fit in there (I have done that before so now I really really do some checking before clicking on anything)

you pull trigger and release it early before piston fires thus leaving spring compressed nearly ready to release/fire not easy to gauge or see even with G&G box showing with top receiver removed as they don't have a rear window to see piston/spring position on gearbox shell battery in, leave it on full auto - reason if you don't get it right first attempt you may end up with the trigger in the "dead zone" by releasing trigger a smidge earlier and have to flick to full auto anyway look down magwell after she has fired..... (dry fired btw as all guns should be mag free & cleared of course) (note MAGWELL not barrel - anybody that don't understand this important bit should not proceed ffs) the nozzle - black stock nozzle should be starting to go backwards allowing a bb to enter as you inch over the gun - that nozzle should shoot forward as tappet/nozzle is released at this point the spring is roughly 66% to 75% cocked/compressed..... you could leave it in this state over night to help lose a little tension from spring no longer than over night I'd say as you only want it to drop a little that is one of a few ways to bring fps down care needs to be taken as most teeth are plastic not metal - only 1 last tooth is robust metal but the Black G&G piston is a good sturdy one so it should be fine for a little precocking overnight if not sue me next time you see me oh and ambi mag catch - son's 416 has this on it: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Double-side-left-right-hand-Magazine-Release-Catch-for-M-series-Airsoft-AEG-/111674731179?hash=item1a00552aab got sent it by error/mixup - better than the Bi-8001 stock mag catch so asked for invoice and kept it on there temped to maybe getting another one perhaps

not exactly that no semi mofo is the dsg hc05 version the FireHawk started to appear last April '14 - GiantKiwi got one of the first ones on here they soon went straight out of stock but a new shipment came in July '14 - my ukara time the very first ones had a different tactical grip and later ones August/September onwards a plain CM grip turns out the first ones with Tactical grip had a TopTech sticker on box and fired fairly quick - not amazing but quite good for stock later ones didn't seem to perform quite as good - yup close inspection revealed a normal regular sticker on gearbox as seen in magwell on top of that these later std FH's had a 21:1 gear ratio so it was obvious they were firing slower than the first TT FH's seems like G&G made the first lot to perform really well so it got great reviews maybe or they thought best tone it down a bit to last but the TopTech one I still haven't busted open yet to check what is so Top Tech inside both the regular FireHawk's work great on semi & full auto - nice cqb gun it was when they launched the DSG version in April (was due to launch around Nov '14) it said in manual no semi - which is daft as most cqb is semi only close up think they deliberately avoided or changed the dsg gear with no semi cut off cams x 2 to avoid patent/copyright trouble with Riot who originally created the DSG. SHS & Modify have made their clones of dsg's but they have semi cams on theirs but a slight different gear design (avoiding direct infringement of copyright/patents) G&G should of approached Riot - not cheap gears or at very least got into partnership with SHS maybe - but they didn't and made their own the first dsg's were very badly finished and I will not be buying another for sure Only the HC05 DSG doesn't have semi-auto other std FireHawks work fine in semi - just like a normal G&G Combat Machine They are ok but also battery location in stock tube is a pain - nice stock on FH & GC16 often people install a black crane nunchuck stock on FH's or like most of out stuff a fixed stubby M4 to chuck in block batteries

FireHawk - actually think the proper term is Fire Hawk (G&G) £140 mini cm18 with a 110mm barrel and loud as f*ck due to duck beak amplifier (does get on your nerves especially in tunnels and enclosed echoey spaces)

not tweaked any of my ics's yet but gotta be do-able, the sorbo/neoprene just goes on the cylinder head to push the piston back a smidge the piston removal of 2nd tooth and reduced 3rd tooth - all do-able without open main lower gearbox just the upper gearbox you need to work on, check the postion of pick up tooth and just clearing reduced 3rd tooth ok pretty straight forward - ensure you got great seal on piston to cylinder - or replace o-ring polish cylinder with siicone cloth, leave good fitting o-ring in a some silicone overnight - cheers Ian & others for tips bit of silicone grease assembling top box back together - with a few bits of lithium/teflon grease on piston's teeth chuck it all back together - job done without removing whole gearbox Reason why AoE is important is coz without it the sector picks up the initial pick tooth so very early to miss 2nd gear it actually forces piston upwards as it pulls it back it can't go upwards coz the guides/runners so though this resistance is ok-ish on stock speed guns when you start to push it faster it WILL snap off very quickly as it fires faster n faster metal rack has not solved the problem like was said so you should deffo look into this and consider doing it

replace the " 1 " with an unknown qty or wtf lets just put a simple " ? " in there instead coz Mrs Duck just don't believe my: "yup I know I said that was it - but this is the last gun I need to get" underneath breath I mutter - well until next month or they release the newer mofo version oooh that looks nice - stop it

Airsoft is actually a really cheap sport/hobby it only gets expensive or out of hand if you let it (or really sad like moi)

welcome also to the best toy gun forum out there nice collection - I'm sure you and Russell may have probably exchanged fire no doubt

you only hear it when you dry fire and yes 1 of my guns has a slight "twang" on dry fire (and I did install a bearing spring guide to reduce spring twist) your piston snapped off at back due to not doing AoE on piston you need a little homework before your faster gun stops breaking quickly that I can confirm for 101% deffo fact as I broke 2 pistons before I realised "Oh is that why they go on about Angle of Engagement" m120 spring can put you over - well it will be well over the 350 limit - 400fps unless seals are really pi$$ poor - dire in fact on a full stroke piston when going past say 25rps she can start to double cycle on m100 spring going past 30rps on m100 you get Pre Engagement until you short stroke depending on what your gun shoots at and with a m120 you have a bit extra before double cycle & PE starts to happen next time you have her in bits - once you know what is what fps wise then look into shortstroking a tooth or two each tooth will reduce fps by about 6.6% or multiply the current fps by 0.94 = 1 tooth then if too high at 400 do the maths again on 376 x 0.94 = 353 also if you have done AoE this will bring down fps by about 15fps aprox but you claw this back by fitting a bearing spring guide that compresses the spring a smidge more Trust me - I've broke LOADS trying to go too nutz too quickly without a bit of extra work inside not expensive or difficult but leanrt the hard way that you can't just drop in beefy motors and 11.1v in fact I don't use 11.1v - just 7.4v's and still get 30+ on a 12 or 13:1 gearset & m120 SS 2 tooth that is more than plenty - going beyond 30 is silly, wears quicker and other crap like feed issues on some mags

I stopped counting months ago - your friend is perfectly balanced and nothing to worry about simply forgetting where he hid some of them isn't as bad as: "I like that - let's buy loads of them" syndrome that I have suffered with most of my very sad life

you can leave the gun cocked over night..... or some other temp fix..... you can slide off top receiver....... now if you place a few layers of tape - gaffa or electrician's tape at front of gearbox just above & below where the hop goes in - tape on metal gearbox shell..... What you are trying to do is just part the hop a smidge away from its usual place that seals well pushing the hop a little forward should hopefully ensure the nozzle may not seal 101% perfectly against bucking in effect creating a slight leak or not such great seal in the hop or fps drop at chrono around 0.5mm - heck even 0.25mm can make the difference between a good seal and a GREAT seal you are just trying to ineffect drop fps from 350 to say 333 - aprox 5% but unfortunately you can't test the results without a chrono really but at least this is a temp drop and tape can always be removed (though you don't wanna keep messing about too much with tape on/off over time) but worth trying to drop fps slightly than leave spring cocked overnight besides after 3 to 6 months I'm sure the gun will easily be within Mall's limits anyway

they are everywhere, most in my mancave - kids old playroom next to garage most still in their box or have kept boxes so stacked up (high) my son has his own little armoury in his room (basically anything really good some how finds its way up there) always a gun or two in bits as I keep changing my mind/options of what to use/try next and yes I've always had this obsessive compulsion thingy was numerous consoles - especially rare ones then I had the notion buy another rare console to make it even more rare - f*ck sake get a grip duck !!! yup - really have a problem - think I must have a female "shoe/bag" gene or something (well I can be a tart at times) 7 FH's - well it was the first RIF I bought after ukara and we both wanted one when we first saw it so LWA ballsed up my order so Mack pointed me to Pro Airsoft and I bought 2 of them.... a while later Airsoft World had one left at a slightly cheaper price than others so bought that Then after a good month at work and selling some consoles I thought lets buy 3 - yes 3 from Z1 thinking I might pop down there with a free skirmish voucher to offset against silly purchase turns out those later 3 were the toned down version that fires slower than the original FH's - damn it really like the TopTech original FH's but got 3 lesser FH's I later found out still a nice gun but after that the novelty of the dinky m4 wore off so it was a silly daft purchase only bought the hc05 coz I felt compelled to get the new one to see how good it is - not great btw So with my luck on breaking things - which has improved a little btw I still set my limit on any gun to £150 (dsg was £155 and think a mk18 was £155 but £150 from Airsoftworld) I ain't good at this stuff - I really suck at it, but I like to break and mess with stuff I wouldn't do that to a TM but then I probably wouldn't buy a TM coz I know I'd probably just make it worse

ok 1 gun ONLY !!!!! G&G FireHawk's = 7 3 x 1st run TopTech FireHawk's - stock as is though 1 has new better bucking 3 x regular FireHawk's with slower gearing - 1 has been around a bit lower, as receiver & box swapped about a lot in other G&G models 1 x HC05 DSG - tweaked to 40rps on 7.4v - still no semi coz G&G didn't do it right or use Riot/SHS/Modify gears (not buying any more FH's - certainly not the dsg one) yeah - got carried away on that one I know - but not saying any more..... except 7 is not the record for same gun - see told you I was sad and need serious help

Nope - I do not have any problem buying guns except where to put/hide them.... Really sad people have more than just one of same saddo cheapo gun

As your are considering your first RIF I personally would approach it as say your first car..... yup if money was no object buy what you want, the reality is often we settle for something a little less than a BMW, Merc etc.... (you kinda get the idea whatever car floats your boat) bet within 6 months - maybe 6 weeks - heck could be 6 days even you may even start to think.... Oh that new "thingy majig" I saw at my site looked nice & his m8 had a good "what-ya-ma-call-it" that was kicking ar$e too buy what you like/want, they are still toy guns and you can make most guns cycle faster if you want to it's fun but faster guns do tend to wear quicker - but that is the fun bit for me

1) - only tape it up if you shoot & scuba dive at same time (seriously unless you play in absolute pi$$ing down rain, monsoon, thunderstorms I think you will be ok) 2) - G&G's "should" last you a good while and are easy to fix/repair if the decent gearbox etc... goes pear shape (you may or may not think it was a good investment - if you have bought a number of $hit guns like moi you will have plenty to compare it with) 3) - a bit of your own accessories or what not, no real must "upgrades" are really required, yes you can boost this or that personally leave as is performance wise, if in a year's time she needs a little service or tlc then a tweak here n there perhaps Believe it or not, guns don't have to get upgrades asap - you can just get out and use them "as is" With any gun or upgrades - there is a line of where do you start/stop it is a good gun imho, the front sight can be removed easily to mount your own red dot the front battery compartment offers a good amount of battery room good G&G internals in there & is metal for any "must have metal" owners but tbh even the polymer G&G CM's hold up very well think your barrel is about 330mm which is a nice size 275 to 330 is perfect M4 size & not too long only bother to change barrel if you want to change the length really (ffs - don't think madbull tight bore barrel is a must have - personally I think they are over priced/rated anyway) and if you change barrel length by more than say a couple of inches you need to change cylinder perhaps your battery is a 9.6v nimah if using a 8 x 1.2v battery btw (or a 8.4v if 7 x 1.2v nimah cells) DO NOT JUST SHOVE IN A 11.1v LIPO in there a mosfet should be fitted if you want to go for higher juice but that can be considered later on if really needed shoving in a shs high speed motor is not advised without doing some internal tweaks/service (I snapped off the first pick up tooth running stock guns faster n faster with hi speed motors - TWICE I DID THIS - doooohhhhh) once your G&G's fps drops to say under 300, then "maybe" look at a service/tweak but for now leave it as is get out there & get shooting - in a friendly airsofting skirmish way I mean Later on - when she is not performing as expected then a service...... long term service may require very little money - more time & care.... New nozzle with o-ring - £4 to £5 aprox New piston o-ring - uhm get a packof 6 or 10 for a few quid I guess but check seals Angle of Engagement - couple of neoprene washers will be fine for most moderate builds - ergh few quid a pack of 10/25 (Sorbothane+Neoprene is best but unless you are going for long term high rof/fps neo will suffice) possible considerations.... New cylinder head or ptfe tape to ensure good seals bearing spring guide - helps to claw back some fps lost in AoE as well reduces spring twisting under tension new m100 spring if your old spring loses its mojo tension - after a while all springs lose a little tension maybe replace any of the worn 8mm bronzey G&G bushings - with better bushings and reshim box (perhaps additional shims required especially when using bearings - but really read up on this shimming coz it really matters) grease up inside when doing these - possible mosfet install at same time whilst box is open now box is serviced and running better - read up or get somebody a little mechanical to help you with it (takes pics, open box in bag - it may explode on you first time opening up - just do some research really) But for now just use it - just don't go buying loads n loads of bits like madbull bollox that you really won't need a few decent shs bits n bobs will do perfectly - its all in the fitting and care really I know this coz I've made and still making plenty of noobie mistakes

looks like an ICS fixed mofo stock and them ICS "canadian" mags might be a mish-mash of a ICS 42 commando with the the longer 43 stock instead of the 42's stubby fixed stock (might make it easy to install a mofo battery for all day rental play & the 43 could be a little long for some)

F*ck me - bet you learnt to park your car at the proper car park after that or was it like that when you bought it ??? best call AutoGlass m8 - that little chip looked like it has turned into cwwwwwwwwack should of called them earlier and you could of kept ya no claims bonus

nice patch design and them stickers - I see Lozart in the centre getting in on the action

wow had a lot less light when I played there if that is the one where the defenders fall back after being shot to start defending again as attackers push up (walk in the park for tunnel rats attacking btw they are that bloody good....) THAT was the flaw in the game, you fall back in the centre of tunnel to walk back to next point right smack bang into the main line of streams of bb's coming at ya - OUCH getting shot in the back no matter how hard you try to stick to edges of tunnel you have to at some point go around the odd barricade into near centre & F*CK ME OUCH torch and possible back padding or plate carrier mightr be good idea if going to tunnels brill place - top mofo's them rats but a bit " dark & full on " is how I would describe it deffo should be experienced though - just go prepared

I take mine out to dinner & a movie now & then but not bought it flowers for a while but I do try to let her know how special she is (missus does get jealous though) normally shooting outside in daylight is whre I chrono - soz for being silly once more