Sitting Duck

Fixed stubby stock for mars bar batteries or Full fixed for lunch & lipo

Nah - shot to sh*t in the back hurts at close range I mean go nutz on somebody is one thing... But in the back - safe zone - hpa = way ott Wonder if the 15yr old would of punished a 6ft 18yr old the same way for burnish his patch ??? yeah - me thinks not - spineless spiteful c*nt DMR the dude in the nutz and see if he think that don't hurt that much plus remember that America often has fps limits a bit higher than we have.... 30+ bb's in the back with little padding - that is gonna sting quite a bit +1 for Sacarathe.... F*cking frightening that that tw*t could soon buy a real firearm.... God help any poor bastid that prangs his nice new car daddy buys him.... A very worrying thought when you look at it like that edit - getting way too carried away - most unlike me

yup but just remember my dumbass dog enjoying the snow many moons ago..... Snowball - here boy - look look look - get it boy - throw.... Dog sits there and wonders where the f*ck that white ball went in all that snow....

Dogs are great dumbasses in snow - throw a snowball up they catch it in their mouths then think.... where the f*ck did that go ????? not snow related but sure as dumb as f*ck.... http://i.imgur.com/L9aIsow.gif

Let's get the Mall one out of the way first.... There's been numerous attempts for a meet up but this is first time it has started to come together But yeah could do a Sussex meet up say about Easter as I'm not too far away

ask your site is the true correct answer Somebody - a regular player got his ukara on his 18th Birthday technically on your 18th birthday - you are 18 - well yeah dooohh but also you have played 3 games (if you have played them of course) I don't think it clearly states that you have to have played 3 games whilst you was 18yrs old but more like 18 and have played 3 games blah blah blah......... Therefore = regular player from 17.75yrs old & turning 18 you "could" be eligible to be entered on database but all down to site - they could be picky and demand this n that I guess - it is their recommendation & form processing etc....

At the very least - play one game ffs You might end up hating it - unlikely but you might. Also sites do vary a bit too - some are more serious & others less (safety is still high priority) So as you have never even played - COD & Youtube will only give you a rough idea Actually trying to play is a LOT different than you could begin to imagine Apart from all that, you will be running around like you haven't got a clue covered in sweat & mud plus apart from all that you will have to quickly work as a team with people you have never met before Most of them will be quite friendly but you will experience a few to$$ers and not all people play the same way either So with all that in mind - you will be thrown into a place of saddo's with toy guns that you have never met before You will be expected to take your hits and call yourself out - just do it even if you are not sure & ignore the non-hitakers Leave your ego at home and play for fun trying to enjoy yourself...... Now after your first game, if you and your parents are ok with you getting shot to $hit (well at least you getting out for a full day of crazy exercise, trying to act responsible & mature etc...) Then THEY could consider buying YOU a 2-tone gun at some point...... Do not under any circumstances think that you can get by with a JBBG for about £70 - £80 (you really will regret it and the resale value if it doesn't break is sweet F*ck All - but bet it breaks) Besides the guns from a site with BB in like JustBBGuns or BBguns4less are usually very poor (yes some guns are ok but there is a lot of crap they sell to noobs and younger first time players) If you do eventually decide to buy - well your parents for that matter you will need to spend around £150+ a good starter gun like G&G or ICS starts at about £120+ but then you got battery/charger/mask/bb's etc..... Some possible good decent starter packs to consider..... http://www.fire-support.co.uk/category/starter-packs-clear-bb-gun/ or http://airsoftzone.co.uk/airsoft-guns/starter-packs This seems to offer good value for money plus 2 mags - not brilliant mags but 2 mags all the same.... http://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/ics-m4-commando-clear-starter-pack-aeg-airsoft-gun-set You might be able to pick up a decent s/hand starter but you need to know what you are buying All the same you gotta get out there, test the water to see if YOU and more importantly if your parents are ok with this Then if you get your own gun - it is a big outlay but as long you keep it simple you can keep the ongoing costs quite low eg: walk on fee say £25 for a game each fortnight plus a £10 bag of bb's which should see you ok for 2 or 3 full game days so say £30 each game you play...... But deffo play a game or two before splashing out..... Youngsters have many things going on in their lives - exams, girls, going out & growing up etc.... But if you & your family are loaded - the wtf go for it - just be careful if money is tight trying to pursue another 5 min wonder

Well first you would have to be 18+ (you have to be 18 or over to buy a 2-tone gun) Next it is down to seller to satisfy themselves the adult purchaser has a valid defense Yes UKARA is not the only defense but it is the most widely accepted and easiest to verify (UKARA retailers have direct access to the UKARA database - a more up to date than the self check ukara) The seller has to decide if the buyer passes the vcra requirements or they themselves may face action and/or their own ukara being revoked A gun membership does NOT clearly pass the actual requirements just because a person holds a valid firearms license or a member of armed forces that does not entitle them to purchase a RIF Kind of crazy if you already own a real friggin' gun locked away in gun case but going 101% by the vcra book it does not guarantee you the right to purchase a RIF airsoft toy gun (though I would reckon most retailers may at least consider it if joining a airsoft skirmish site and avoid 3 game waiting) JBBG - they are clowns at best often selling to kids & noobs quite $hit guns at daft prices often is the first place newcomers buy from - quickly learning it will be the last place on earth they will buy from again JambWow talks more bollox than me - so I wouldn't hold your breath coz he is fluent in 101% pure bull$hit Join a club - do 3 games and then buy from a decent retailer rather than some clown talking out of his ar$e (Jambwow btw - I talk out my ar$e but I'm a pratt not some chubby clown liar bastid) As for member of shooting club.... my m8 has 30 years experience in IT but as he is a delivery driver & teaboy for PC World - he is the last person to ask about computer problems

Bollox scrap that idea..... Different motors think the TAR is a short motor And Krytac would be using long motor Ah well it was just a thought.... Soz

TBH the 16:1 gears don't make that much difference... Stock 18:1 are actually 18.65-18.75:1 16:1 gears are in fact around 17.25:1 So they are only about 8% quicker Well in actual fact you may as well say 7% As there is a slightly slightly slower start using higher speed gears - 12:1's are never a full 50% faster than stock on their own So gears are finest 16:1 The main thing is just how much stronger the Lonex A2 is compared to which stock motor.... Eg: crappy basic G&G red ferrite vs ICS stock motor... G&G does say 12-13, ICS seems to get near 15 rps Some Neodym's vary a LOT too... M140 motor is just stronger but not really much faster than a good stock ferrite -just capable of pulling higher springs. Don't think the Lonex A2 is as mental as the A1 or A1 supreme but I ain't got Lonex motors myself So can't confirm 101% I'm afraid However you could go nutz with 16:1 MOSFET deans rewire and stick on a average ferrite Keep Lonex for Krytac perhaps.... Doing some maths on a ferrite... Stock 13rps on ferrite motor Redo with 16:1 gets to 14 Redo further with deans n fet etc.. 16.25 Now if you get a figure on stock rps... Multiply that figure by 1.25 So if so just shove in a Lonex A2 If that is like a SHS torque then expect a 1.33333 from motor alone So placing motor gets you to 17.3333 then leave it But tbh like I said see about a not too crazy neo or good ferrite then redo box with gears n fet What might be worth a look is maybe try the A2 in Krytac See which is more crazy.... Then take the slightly slower motor for ya rebuild And ya Krytac has an upgraded motor too.... Hope some of this bollocks helps a little bit

HobbyKing is great but the buyer has to do a bit more homework/research themselves..... There is a LOT of battery options - some at very cheap prices but have to check the dimensions Yes they do some airsoft batteries - though the airsoft batteries they sell are limited in burst rating = C and some of them are 166mm long which is too long for crane stocks - aprox 125-ish for crane stocks diameters also vary - G&G cranes are a bit narrow 18mm max tubes - others have a diameter in tube of 22mm MP5k's - jeeeeeeez they are like 17.999999mmm diamter and a number of single stick batteries are f*cking tight If the buyer measures their battery compartment - and I STRONGLY advise checking by making up a dummy battery from cardboard, sticky back plastic washing up bottle or something ffs to triple check.... Then they "may" find they can get a small compact block type battery which is a bit cheaper and more mah than HobbyKing's Airsoft ones Also buyer beware you can easily order 1 battery from UK and another battery/charger from HongKong If UK are out of stock - next place is to get them from EU (Netherlands) in fact last time I checked HobbyKing Airsoft batteries come from HongKong or EU - not sold on HobbyKing UK Yes an Imax B6 (genuine) is a good mofo charger but will need psu unless you buy the B6 AC version plus if on mini tamiya you may need to get some adapter leads to charge the mini tamiya lipo on a B6 hence for ease of use the B3 type is a lot easier to use out of box no matter what connector your gun uses on lipo's So for an ease of life - component shop if buying in bulk loads and upgrading - HobbyKing but do ya homework properly first

http://www.componentshop.co.uk/7-4v-1450mah-25c-continuous-discharge-cranestock-lipo-battery.html YOU WANT MINI-TAMIYA CONNECTOR BTW - GET 2 BATTERIES BTW http://www.componentshop.co.uk/1000ma-1500ma-li-po-li-fe-charger-for-2s-3s-lipo-life-battery-packs-complete-with-psu.html These are some options and better than buying an old skool nimah battery & crappy basic smart charger. You could go nutz and get a Imax B6 and other lipo's from hobbyking for example.... You can squeeze a longer 160mm twin stick lipo in the front handguard but the batteries listed should fit easy and provide a decent punch

DMR - you got quick change spring so go back to aeg when you get the hump option Sniper - bolt action is what mofo's go for, will cost time & money and you are stuck with a sniper (or sell it, shelve it etc.....) I'd test the water with DMR first and see how you get on

if its 420fps on a 230mm barrel then my hunch is its a bit over a proper m120 tbh (should be on the 400max maybe 390 on a 230 say 390fps - spring ratings do vary a lot) plus add in a bearing spring guide + piston bearing = 2 x 5mm extra spring compression increasing fps though tbh piston bearing is not what I use as it adds weight and comes undone unless you use threadlock (bearing spring guide & drop piston bearing is fine - recommended for higher rof setups) soz but just pointing it out as each of them bearings can add 15-20 fps each due to compressing spring more Gate's are nearly all AB's once you get into the mid range - though think one or two of them can turned on/off Be careful if dropping spring down too low in case you get close to PE tbh - what you could do is short stroke it a couple of teeth roughly speaking each tooth will drop ABOUT - I say about coz its hard to calculate exactly..... each tooth could reduce fps by "about" 15fps or 6%-ish (multiply fps by 0.94 for each tooth) SS a couple of teeth could drop say 30fps and help to avoid PE As long as she fires properly in semi if trigger held down = then the trigger switch is working correctly Some v2 switches need the selector plate's copper strip to make full contact on them 2 prongs behind switch others like shs - have these contacts bridged so selector plate's copper strip isn't needed others like G&P - maybe D-Boys don't have these prongs at back of switch at all... Just saying if on semi she spluttered to fire these contacts "could" be not making proper contact 101% but if she fires correctly by holding down the trigger a tiny bit longer then that rules that out and yes it is you releasing trigger that tiny bit too early - leaving the cut off lever slightly raised in the dead zone see how you go - Kong ain't bad - not tried Gate mosfets but plenty have them or just retrain your itchy trigger finger SS though might be a wise consideration rather that drop in a too low spring and get overspin or PE trouble

Ahhh - dmr or a pdw size gun ??? (all the same think a pdw 110-140mm barrel would still be a tad hot on a m120 unless you losing fps somewhere) though some sites allow up to 370fps I think I've seen on aeg's anyway no matter - there are a few like in the Gate range of fet's also Kong II or Kong 3 burst mosfets @ Airsoftworld or at a push Zero One also stock them a bit of a headache getting ya head round them at first but can add bells n whistles 1-2-3-4-5 rnd burst all with or without the one touch flick option... Will take a little configuring and on higher rof guns it will be different to program as opposed to stock rof guns but worth a look.... or go nutz down the BTC route

top top mofo always worth shooting him a pm on here or FB down to earth bloke with down to earth prices - yet shipping is bloody quick without silly postage costs already covered: http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/20130-wwwak2m4couk/#entry138973 but well respected on here (if that don't get a super duper grovelling bonus loyalty discount then I don't know what will )

You do understand that that spec is a 40rps build 13:1, shs torque, fet + deans & a whopping 11.1v lipo With that in mind you must have a bloomin' quick trigger finger to release it that bit too quickly and leave it stuck it dead zone If you leave it pulled for a split second she should fire very nicely but at 40rps you gotta be just flicking that trigger if she is working correctly at that speed without the flick of the trigger then it is just you being too hasty on the release of trigger if you ain't hitting at least 35rps something ain't right but even at that speed you had best done your homework to avoid PE (Short Stroke & m115+ spring) if you proceed running a build like that on 11.1v on stock m100-ish spring......

As this has gone off topic - then back on, then off again..... Airsoft is a little like married sex - just a little Now if you are lucky you get to sample the above loadout - very very few times (on ya GF I meant but if you like to cross dress I suppose whatever floats ya boat) helps to make the event more enjoyable but as we all know it is the taking part that counts and after a while you ain't gonna so no if their kit isn't as good yes its nice all kitted/strapped up etc... but if its basic loadout & you get to play or not playing at all.... you just pick up ya weapon and go for it - that is what counts Final thought thought chaps.... If Mrs Duck is gonna show me a loadout like the above end of Feb - our anniversary btw 29-02-92 = leap year then you will not be seeing me at the Mall I'm afraid I might be daft and act the fool but even I ain't that f*cking stupid somebody try and steer it back on course but leave you with another pic to consider if thinking of getting hitched AND NO MRS DUCK HASN'T LET HERSELF GO THAT MUCH !!!! it is not our pics before you ask (before any smart ar$e chimes in)

Base M4 - any one as long as take the general TM stuff 300 to 409mm I guess though a base M4 should not have the fixed front sight unless your optics are on risers though you can replace the fixed M4 front sight with fold/removable one http://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/ics-metal-cxp16-long-version-airsoft-gun-aeg nice looking gun, 2 part gearbox to allow you to go from 350 to 450 spring change can add on longer outer extension and barrel to look bad ass but say a 350 barrel in supressor will be fine.... great uk seller for ics stuff hop/barrel - hmmm avoid madbull - if spending money pdi barrel, prowin hop (though ics hop/bucking is a little bespoke and might not work in ics) motor shs torque - strength and not too silly speed gearset - well stock 18:1 should be ok at a push 16:1 or 13:1 if snappy response is plenty mofo's - just general term aka mother f*cker usually when something is damn bloody good Not saying the ics one is the be all & end all you could get krytac or others TM etc.... but tbh it might be worth two things: 1 - see what others may say - always good to research and get opinions etc.... 2 - you could just approach firesupport and get them to build your gun for you to a dmr spec (note there is a sportsline (plastic version) that is £50 cheaper but tbh get the metal for £50 more) I would of said this or that gun but the ics will allow you to swap springs yes some have a very quick change spring, but on M4's you have to half remove the gearbox unless you drill out a bloody big hole where stock tube goes to get to QD spring guide the ics - not quite as quick but lower box/wiring/motor stays put Wait a while - somebody else will chime in with other suggestions and I might even change my mind also but put on spot the long cxp might be one I'd consider then have the dmr/aeg quick spring change option - drop down to 350fps and overkill that little 12yr old $hit with his JBBG that's not taking his long range hits all morning (yes I'm a sick bastid/mofo)

nomally dmr's go at 425-450 max ruling 50 less than sniper's max limit due to aeg and also the dmr can spam a bit on semi true milsim strict ruling may enforce a 3 sec delay (aprox time to recock a bolt sniper) m120 spring will get you to say 400+ m130 is what you should need to attain 425-450 (though this can vary on different springs) max gearing 13:1 and a VERY good motor pulling m130 full stroke normal gen gearbox basic service etc........ however - it is barrel and more importantly the hop that you need to spend time/money on R-hop is going to be the way to go but I haven't dabbled so can't offer much advice in that area I'm still learning but have found the alternative flat hop don't work too great on tight barrels 6.02 often the longer barrels seem to go 6.05 upwards rather than tighter and higher fps but hop/bucking/nub is critical area - the box is not so must be mental mofo - working well but not ultra critical I'm on the cheap mess about side of stuff - probably with a 50m range the area you need is probably pro-win hop R-hopped on a decent barrel - not mental one but lapped and polished to close perfection - that is what the mofo's have in their guns after numerous experiments with bb's and buckings - not easy to get that close to squeezing everything out of gun just saying higher fps is not the answer to everything.... too many keep bunging in a higher spring to get the fps rather than make seals airtight bad range - more power - nope TM's shoot very well they all say but often fps wise they are lower than most guns out of box so that example proves fps is not the be all n end all many think yes you will spend most of your budget on the hop/barrel to attain max possible range/accuracy/groupings the box itself is not any area than needs loads of work - just a bit servicing and motor/fet before you go nutz - check your site is not too picky on its dmr spec and a beefy M4 is allowed to me it should be but some sites/players get a bit picky

the longest barrel you can fit...... after about 350mm it does jack $hit but it looks bad ass to enemy mine is bigger than yours & no I'm not over compensating for something........ but there are limits - p90 mofo has gone ott me thinks: DMR - dmr the whole thing is kinda weird..... most guns can shoot better without the long mofo barrel or the higher fps you gain say 75fps but often without attention to detail to barrel/hop you get little over a decent normal aeg Yes you can "convert" a M4 to a "DMR" but some picky places may not accept that mofo single shot M4 as a true DMR but in effect a m130 spring, lock to semi if no auto ever available then an additional micro switch tucked away to trigger a mosfet to clear any semi lockup's - but mag needs to be removed if clearing a lock up & firing on full auto neo motor fet deans etc for response - really though it is just getting it shooting as best/accurately as you can really really messing with hop bucking barrel is where the attention to detail is..... no point shooting a heavier bb and still range and groupings being absolute $hite even with extra fps Before you embark on a M4 dmr project - check your site's specs more serious places don't allow just anybody with a beefy M4 and announce it as a dmr.... me personally and other not so serious sites couldn't care less if it is following the normal 425-450fps limit locked to semi - then fair enough to me tricky bit is getting a "dmr" to perform like a dmr ya average starter can shoot ok-ish but a poor dmr all over the place will just leave you annoyed

not saying these clowns but.... https://bbguns4less.co.uk/products/a-k-sr-25k-full-metal-airsoft-aeg-rifle-with-crane-stock-in-black.html shame coz gunfire did a sr25 on offer at about 150 Euros couple of weeks before chrimbo: http://gunfire.pl/product-eng-1152192690-GF25-K-sniper-rifle-replica.html other options are cm032 or just go nutz on a normal slightly longer gun ffs its airsoft - screw what others think about a long nosed M4

bollox to all of it - this kinda sums up my thoughts...

ok but go easy on SS do 1 or 2 teeth max at first - can't put them back on and make sure they came off the side that first engages piston pick up tooth first I followed a bad guide and removed the teeth at the end of sector which messes up tappet timing best of luck sir