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@Dratsab a guy in the US sells a basic spring tester that uses a luggage scale, it works but isn't hugely reliable. A real spring tester that will measure the N/mm costs a couple hundred quid. Length, coil number and wire thickness are a good way of estimating, of course different brands are based on different markets where they play with different FPS so there's no standard measuring scale. The closest you can get is having someone measure the Newton force at the stage in which it's released in the gearbox. I've spent a fortune getting a spring factory to working this out, send me samples so I can test etc...Hopefully have some new M100 samples arriving next couple of weeks although with the higher powers.

tinkers gotta tinkle 🙂 Play with it, buy a 2nd tickle your heart away. If you do feel the urge try some different buckings. Prom ain't bad, it's a good standard design. Maple Leaf also do some pretty good ones. Experiment with those, give the barrel a nice clean, polish it if you really want to.

@Rogerborg I've got one of those BD motors around somewhere, do the new one still use that tab can design?

Only today my courier company sent an email out explaining another 5% increase, this is on top of the 15-20% increase in the past 2 years. Sea freight prices have increased 5 fold, will they come down? stay as they are? who the fuck knows. Air freight prices are also through the roof, check out the Emergency Situation Surcharge on this 30kg shipment from HK to UK..

@GoodeyAirsoft The nub is used to apply pressure onto the bucking (backspin), for barrel length grab the closest to the stock length, I think the stock is 215mm, ZCI do a 200mm and 229mm, depends on how much length you have. I used to love the ZCI HT motors but they never improved the design, must have asked them a dozen times to stop using the tab design and shim a little better but they never did. It's why I moved to stocking the XT motor range and back to the SHS HT motor.

I've never used those Ultimate gears before, I think they are just rebranded Lonex though, the top section of the sector gear is molded / sintered whereas the Rocket / SHS (all black) gears are machined.

Just order it from KY, as long as you've got the relevant defence shouldn't have anything to worry about. This is how lot of us import RIF's from abroad.

Stupid move by the retailer, honestly takes no time at all to contact the buyer and explain the issue. Any reason for not just using some SHS or Rocket 16:1 gears? They are generally pretty solid and half the price.

only the "One" range

E&C Platinum. Do you mean the CYMA Platinum?

@RostokMcSpoons just watched your video's, I would have expected a bigger jump from 7.4 to 11.1. Of course a lot of other factors at play. Ideally it's worth testing with another motor you have have the running in another RIF and compare the 2. Still the original motor? I imagine the stock motor is super bargain basement.

"Gaylord comes with a bone of his own"...brilliant

the general consensus is you don't need a thrust bearing on both the piston head and spring guide, it won't do any harm but it will put a little more stress on the spring. again every aeg is slightly difference, worth experimenting with both. personally i only ever fit the single bearing on the spring guide.

JG's use very cheap springs, they generally are quite thick and short, made from cheaper "piano wire", hence can degrade quickly. Firstly you want to grab a new spring, ideally grab one which has been tested by the seller so you know what to expect, that way you can rule out issues. 260fps with 0.25g is pretty low, that's around 290fps with 0.2g. My guess is you have a couple of issues with the airseal together with a degraded spring. Does the AEG use a quick change spring? If so that's the easiest route to increase without opening the gearbox.

Let me know how that Gearparts M105 spring works out for you, plus any problems. I've not opened one of the new DE yet, will get hold of one soon though.

I've had the E&C version in the past and it's pretty decent, just upgraded the motor and hop rubber. It's the cheapest AEG they do, if you can get it outside UK you should be able to get one with the COLT markings

I haven't used one myself, they have been around for over 20 years, they don't have a great reputation though. I do hear the motors are pretty good though. What worries me about sites like JustBB is they don't give any internal pictures of the gearbox, not even an external picture. It's the most costly part of an AEG

SRC rebrand if I remember right?

Whole load of memories just came flooding back

@Cannonfodder Pretty sure I've got a 16K in parent attic somewhere

Upgrading the Atari ST to a C64, they can only dream about an Amiga 🙂

I've wondered about this as well. I would guess since Aliexpress is the payment provider everything goes through them but who's to say they actually pay the UK government the correct fees. There's no way they can check, when you look at an Aliexpress label there's no indication of any tax paid. So Aliexpress make a little extra from the 20%, UK government make a little extra from whatever payments are made and can reduce checks on goods coming in (extra saving). The only saving grace here is if you use a Chinese or HK website who don't charge UK VAT their side, their might be less checks so less chance of import tax and duty.

Hi Alex, as you're mostly playing CQB then perhaps 22TPA motor is the easiest upgrade, good on battery efficiency and low on heat for the semi-shots , for extra snappy'ness you could run a 11.1v but you might then need to upgrade the gears and piston. Can add a Mosfet if you wish but it's not 100% necessary.

The best I've come across is Super Lube Silicone, stuff is fantastic and long lasting, really weird properties as well, not sure what they put in it. I also use Sealeys, it does the job but doesn't last as long.