dex

I think the flash hider you're referring to is actually a safety cover. The big point on the right side is a feature of the real rifle and is for deflecting spent cartridges. Anyhow, good choice for a first gun, the combat machine range are great bang for buck.

I feel we've strayed a little off the point here, so I'll sum up the answer for you: - Mosfet: At their most basic they are a "gate" that controls the flow of power to the motor by way of 1 or 2 additional signal wires. These are wired to the trigger contacts in place of the power wire(s). This allows for more efficient power transfer (resulting in better trigger response) and prevents carbon build up on the trigger contacts as they are no longer part of the power circuit. More advanced fets add voltage protection, burst features, pre-cocking, active braking bla bla bla. "Plug and play" mosfets will only give you burst functions and voltage protection as your trigger contacts will still be part of the power circuit. A mosfet cannot improve your rate of fire in any real sense (they may be very slight improvement due to more efficient power delivery). To get any real gains in RoF you need to look at upgrading your motor and battery to start with and gears if you want to go further. This does lead to its own problems as you will be putting your gearbox under a lot more stress. So then you need to look at gear shimming, lubrication, angle of engagement, sorbo pads and so on (and on). They are hundreds of written and video guides on what these things do and how to properly do them. Deans connectors: basically are a better electrical connector than tamiya style ones (they can handle a much higher current), will add to the efficiency of the power circuit. These are advisable to use if you use lipos. Bottom line is that if you dont want to get into the mucky muck of your gearbox then find a reputable airsoft tech to quote you on the cost of upgrading to a high speed set up.

Changing the connectors to deans just involves removing the tamiya connectors from the wires that connect to your battery and the on the batteries themselves and then soldering on some deans ones. A good airsoft tech can do this an fit a mosfet for you.

Thats about where they are supposed to be. That said, it looks like there is some damage to the wires where they come out of the gearbox - possible getting pinched by the magazine or something...

As above. You need to wire any mosfet into your trigger contacts to gain any usefulness out of it. A basic fet will give you the increased trigger response and save your trigger contacts from burning out. More expensive ones will give you programmable features such as the btc ones. All require getting intimate with the inside of your gearbox. You should also change your battery connections to deans.

If you don't wire a mosfet into the trigger contacts you get almost no benefit from it. If you want to use 11.1 lipo then you need to do this otherwise you will burn out the contacts. This is the whole point a a fet.

Hamsterfet. They are tiny.

Eotech clone all the way for me.

Exactly, this post is arsegravy of the lowest order.

Bit of common sense needs applying here. Think about how the f**k they got it on there in the 1st place, then do the reverse. If you have to start cutting wires, chances are you are doing the wrong thing.

When attacking: If someone on your team is shooting then someone else should be moving.

Good range of stock, quick delivery. Would use again.

Go with an M100 if your sites limit is 340.

Good move buddy.

Its a pretty crowded camp...

You could get a cheap/second hand v2 shell and see if it fits. I wouldn't want to throw another Ares one in there.

My wife will never know how much I spend on airsoft stuff. Ever. I don't even like to think about it myself.

A pair of these: http://www.hueys.co.uk/epages/es151784.sf/sec3f1166a27e/?ObjectPath=/Shops/es151784/Products/%22OPS%203D%20Pants%20FG%22/SubProducts/%22OPS%203D%20Pants%20FG-0003%22

To answer the orginal poster, you can buy an AEG right now that will do a fine job OOTB. What you can't buy is a high performance/speed AEG that will work reliably OOTB. You would need exceptional QC and pricy manufacturing techniques to mass produce a good DSG gun for example. I'm sure that day will come, just not for a while yet. Bottom line is there has never been a better time to buy an AEG and with the amount of competition in the market, prices will fall and quality and innovation will rise.

CYMA are OK for a budget brand. If the one you linked does indeed shoot 360fps you would need to change out the spring to get it below 350fps, which is pretty much the limit on most sites in the UK. I too would advise against a leg holster, keep you pistol on your waist or above otherwise it will flap around and piss you off when running. I use a SERPA holster on my hip.

Spend some money on kit and rent an AEG. Good boots, eye pro(tection) and some camo clothing should be top priority. See if you actually really like airsoft before you start throwing money into the bottomless pit of RIFs.

Krylon camo spray paint. Base coat of sand with partial areas of woodland over the top then with varying shades of green and brown sponged on. Trying to go for an ATACS FG kind of thing.

My custom M4 CQB build with camo paint job: made out of various parts, internally mostly Lonex running 16:1 gears cranking out 30rps on a 11.1 lipo (pic taken on phone).

Short answer: chrono the gun.

Reason I use mid caps: no rattle, no winding. Cons: lower capacity, need a speed loader to load.