dex

I've been wearing Oakley Pilots for the past year. Skirmished countless times, still going strong.

I dunno who the bloke is in the photo. I do know he'll have a stiff neck and sore shoulders if he keeps that up...

Yeah, fair point which I missed in my post. This has been covered many times before though...

If you like M4s - VFC or Lonex would be my choice. VFCs HK416 and 417 are especially nice. Slap your optic of choice on top and maybe a foregrip plus some mags and batteries and your away.

Here's the rub: - There is no such thing as a a UKARA "license". You can become a UKARA registered skirmisher however... - It's NOT illegal to own or buy a RIF, whether you are a registered skirmisher or not. End of story. - It IS illegal for a retailer to sell you a RIF if you are under 18 or cannot provide a defence against prosecution under the VCRA - which is where becoming a registered skirmisher comes in. - It IS illegal to "manufacture" a RIF without the aforementioned defence. - Two tones are not considered realistic and therefore as long as you are over 18, a retailer can sell you one. This stuff has been covered countless times elsewhere...

Prolly a vfc m27 iar with a smp wolverine full set up, r hop etc.

I recommend Hobbyking for batteries. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__901__900__Airsoft_Accessories-Lipoly_Batteries.html A lot cheaper than any UK retailer and better to boot. Just make sure to select the European or UK warehouse when adding to cart.

I would advise using a rental if possible until he get UKARA then buy something decent (G&G CM or whatever). Same advice I would give to any new player. Although I understand the need to get your own kit - cheap plinkers and two-tones are a waste of time.

You need to go through a process of elimiation. 1) Take out the spring, piston, cylinder/head, tappet and AR latch, screw back together. Use a small screw driver or similar to spin the gears (go in through the cylinder window and spin the sector gear). They should spin freely and keep spinning after you flick them with your screw driver. If they dont move or are hard to move or dont spin freely - your shimming is too tight. 2) Check your motor alignment in relation to the bevel gear and the spacing between the two - this is really important to get right. Test this with just the gears and the motor and grip installed. A "screechy" gearbox when fired on full auto will reveal issues with the motor alignment and shimming. If all is ok after doing those, then move on to testing with the piston etc installed. There are loads of good tutorials on youtube for shimming etc: https://www.youtube.com/user/AirsoftingTutorials/videos

Well, the AEG you mention is a Bulldog Justbbguns special and the pistol looks to be cheap article as well. Neither are fit for skirmishing - ok for back garden plinking, but not much else. To a large extent "you get what you pay for" applies to airsoft guns.

shs pistons are very good. Light weight and strong. IMHO the best thing you can do is fit sorbo and set the aoe. This helps no end with reducing wear and stress on the gearbox.

Check out E&L. Their AKs are very good.

Works on the same principle. Thermal lenses are made of 2 layers of polycarbonate with an air gap between them.

You're gonna need a lot more than 120 rounds. I dont consider myself trigger happy but I go through around 4-500 rounds per skirmish game depending on the length.

I go with Lonex usually. Take the bearings off for lightness.

Stick with sorbo and a decent pom piston head.

How does full auto go? It might be a cut off lever issue if its not cycling properly on semi.

Does the tappet plate move freely on its rails with the gearbox closed up? Remove the piston and main spring and then screw the box up. Make sure you can push the air nozzle fully back without obstruction - try this with and without the tappet plate spring - without the spring in you should be able to push/pull the air nozzle in and out fully without it snagging or being obstructed - with the spring you should be able to push it back with a bit of force (smoothly) and it should snap back when you release it. If the motion of the tappet plate is not smooth, check its seated in its rails properly and the the spring is installed the right way. I cant see the front of the gearbox in your photo, so its hard to tell if there is some obstruction near the nozzle end.

The Gate Nanos are good, a little chunky for my liking. If you want something small have a look at the Gate Pico.

Avoid Ares. Terrible internals.

More cycles basically. Ultimately means more stress on the moving parts.

Lonex m4. Win.

What's the reason for replacing the plastic one? If it ain't broke...

Fair enough, personal experience and all that. I think it's fair to say that if you want the best buy PDI or Prometheus.

+1 for pdi / prometheus barrels. Personally I've found Madbull ones to be disappointing. Stock g&g tbb from the top techs are actually pretty good.