dex

There's a little bit of wobble with them in my G&G but then its the same with my G&P too. Does it bother me? Not a jot cos they feed flawlessly. Besides, nothing a bit of tape wont sort out if it does bother you.

Save an extra £30 and get a G&G top tech.

I haven't heard of an AEG that MAGs don't work with.

Can recommend the g&g top techs.

I use MAG midcaps in my G&G M4 CQBR, which internally is the same as the T4-18 and they have been flawless. No reason they shouldnt fit in the magwell as they are standard STANAG type.

CM18 - cos it looks cooler

You need to do the research and look at reviews etc as there is so much choice at that price point. Maybe narrow it down to a few guns you like the look of and ask opinions. Generally you cant go wrong with G&G, G&P, VFC, Classic Army.

The internets and youtube.

Buy a G&G Combat Machine and be happy.

Good videos. From what I can see/hear you have several issues (that I can identify at least): - The shimming and or motor height isnt great, your getting a fair amount of squeal - Looks like you have some overspin - this would be even worse running on a lipo If it were me I would do the following - take down the gearbox, clean it and do a general inspection of the internals. - replace any worn parts (in your case look at the piston rack for wear) - replace any parts not suitable for a high speed setup (stock bushings for example - use good quality bushings or bearings) - re-shim and set the motor height exactly - use an M110 spring at least or an M120 and short stroke - set the AoE with sorbo (this is important in a high speed setup) - do a break in run with just the gears and motor and a decent lipo (eg with a good discharge rate that can fully juice your motor - i have a feeling that your nimhs are not up to it) - i would advise against running high speed gears with a nimh - fit an active breaking fet such as the nanoAB to cure the overspin (the BW2 is not AB and wont do much for you anyway unless you wire it into your trigger contacts) - re-grease with lithium grease for the gears and silicon grease for the o-rings etc - see what happens

What spring does it have? If it's anything under an m120 you're looking at a pre-engagement issue with those 13:1 gears.

Need a bit more info on your gun: what is it? is it stock or upgraded/customised internals? what spring? what battery? how long have you been the gun? I presume from what you've said you are using the BW2 in "plug and play" fashion? As for diagnosis - ditch the mosfet for now - start with the battery - how old is it and is it fully (balance) charged? Try it in a different gun or try another good battery in yours. If not that then I would look at the motor - then the gearbox drivetrain (gears, shimming, piston) - then wiring and trigger contacts. You need to eliminate 1 factor at a time.

I would agree that most high end AEGs are compromised to some degree. It really depends on your expectations and what you want out of the gun and whether you are a tech/upgrader. One thing is for sure - you really are spoilt for choice if you have the budget for a high end AEG. Recoil models aside, if you want a no compromise gun - you need to get a custom job.

http://www.helmetworld.co.uk/airsoft-aeg-lonex-8mm-gearbox-mp5-version-2-chromium-plated-uk-delivery-21741-p.asp

No trades though...

Jesus Christ that is ugly.

Tm recoil are widely regarded as the rolls Royce of AEG. They are laser accurate ootb and have some nice features. However the recoil mags are expensive and you would need to get a conversation done to run standard batteries. If you can afford one, go for it (provided you like the recoil effect of course) search YouTube for reviews etc.

That's pretty much it AFAIK. Same gearbox, motor, wiring and 6.03 tbb. You could effectively turn a Gen 2 into a Gen 3 by wiring in an active breaking mosfet (ironically it would be more reliable if you used a decent fet like the NanoAB).

TBH the blowback system is very simple and doesn't have a great deal of scope to go wrong. G&G internals are far better OOTB - even the shim job in mine was good (there is always room to tweak, but for a factory job it was far better than the G&P). The gearbox shell on the G&G is very good also, with radiusing and reinforcement. It is a shame they couldn't fit a better mosfet though. Just for the record with a Lonex M110 spring and everything else stock the difference the ROF you can expect is 14.5rps with a 9.9 life and 17.5rps with a 11.1 lipo.

My advice is not to run the g&g with an 11.1 lipo. Go with a 7.4 or a 9.9 life (I'd say that for the g&p also tbh). In any case a nanoAB fet is a drop in replacement for the stock one (30 quid, which is what I'll be installing if it does pop).

One question you should ask is whether you want the pneumatic blowback feature? If so go with the g&g. If not; g&p. I own both a g&p m4 and a g&g Gen 3 cqbr. I would say that the g&g has better internals out of the box. Externally I would say they are on par. Both are widely upgradable.

Shs high torque motor, mosfet, 11.1 lipo. With standard gears you would be looking at around 24rps. Which is decent.

Google and Youtube are your friends... as is punctuation

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Combat machine