straffham

Showing my age but . . . . . A LS M655 kit (basically a M16A2 fixed stock carbine) around 1984, cost £25. All ABS plastic, glue and screw together, spring cocking, no hop, prob 180fps tops! Bought from my local model shop when I was 14 and "RIF" and 2 tone wasn't even thought of! First proper gun was a TM MP5K PDW around 1990.

+1 on that, likewise the SD6 fixed stock over the SD5.

There are a couple of grub screws which may need tightening where the barrel slots into the upper receiver, you should be able to sort them using an allen key if you pop the front handguards off. That model has a 2part hop unit so if you need to split the upper from the lower you may need to push the upper part of the hop unit forward via the ejection port while carefully pulling the back of the upper receiver upward taking GREAT care not to damage the lugs that locate with the rear receiver pin and also locate into the cutaways in the gearbox. Once these lugs are clear of the lower and the gearbox it should be possible to prise the lugs outward slightly to slide the upper forward off the lower. It's a hamfisted method which is harder to explain than do tbh!

Is the M4 TM recoil based? Nice collection there!

Lonex - I imagine it will cost a fair bit then.

Would just add the quick change gearbox isn't a new idea, most Ares guns have had them for years.

There are a few stock tubes out there which are designed to allow the wiring to pass through, can't link sorry, mainly seem to be aimed at crane stocks iirc so not sure how much space is in the tube itself.

If you've had the gun a while it could just be the trigger contacts have eroded or are black with carbon so only a low current is passing through. Def worth trying another motor though if you have one handy.

Could be several things. Does the wiring get hot? Any unusual noises? Have you swapped any components? Looking at the pic there appear to be exposed battery connecting leads coming out of the back of the gearbox which could cause a short?

Sorry to hear about your condition buddy, think you're wise to take it easy for a while. Hope you can make a good recovery and get back to doing the things you enjoy before too long. All the best. Martyn.

Tong Wood near RAF Cosford is pretty good and just off the motorway. Mainly woodland but has underground bunkers, trenches, nam type village, even a rock folly. Was part of the RAF training grounds I believe, parts of the obstacle course are still there . Can't link direct but can be found at: www.aceairsoft.co.uk

Fair one, never seen the book to be honest.

Aces High is WW1. . . .

Hi, these are both G&G's version of the M4A1, both have metal receivers, the top one you list is the basic version while the bottom 2 you list are the same item, a more electronically advanced gun which has a mosfet which basically prevents spark erosion of the trigger contacts and should give improved trigger response. It is also listed as being slightly more powerful than the first one which is fine for woodland but too hot for most CQB sites which have a limit of 330fps. G&G guns are well thought of and both should be good out of the box, if you can stretch to it go for the one with a mosfet. You'd probably get best results with 0.25 BBs in either of those guns.

Had considered going twin weild with 2 Uzi's for a giggle. . . . .

M140 should give you around 400 - 420fps, you'd need a 160 or 170 to get 500fps on 0.2s and tbh your gearbox would probably break pretty quick as V2 boxes aren't known for their ability to handle massive power. Use 36s in my Tanaka K98 which doesn't see a lot of use atm lol.

Could be the hop rubber is too thick/tight in your hop unit causing the end that holds the BB to exert too much pressure. BB should push through FAIRLY easily with a rod, if it takes too much effort to push through that sounds like the problem. Try removing the inner barrel, refit the hop rubber onto it, apply a little silicon grease to the OUTSIDE of the hop rubber and refit into the hop unit. It SHOULD slide in smoothly, if not then you need to rethink your hop unit/rubber combo.

I am still using Madbull 0.36s I purchased a couple of years back. I take it you're looking at around 400fps to use as a DMR from the spring you list? Its a heavy and slow BB to use at that power, and may not get to 50m let alone 70. Try asking around at your site if you can test different weights and brands of BB and see what works once its all working as it should. As for the feeding issue, is the hop unit nice and tight against the gearbox?

Consistent compression is one factor in improving grouping along with using quality ammo and a decent hop rubber, and of course allowing for wind. I've never tried "sealing" the cylinder and cyl head with any sort of sealant and would be wary of doing so. There will always be small amounts of movement in these components caused by vibration and the sealant will just become ineffective with use. With the quality components you're using you should be looking for a shot to shot variation of no more than around 7 or 8 fps at 400fps, and hopefully less with good ammo.

Once you've fitted the other new parts it will probably cure the poor grouping, sounds like your hop rubber is probably past it. A well set up AEG hop should get to 50m no problem, although wind is always going to be a factor to some degree. You may be better using 0.29/0.3 BBS, in my own guns I've found 0.36 only worked really well in 470-500fps set ups, but certainly wouldn't use cheap 0.2s even to test it tbh. Has your sector gear got a tappet plate delaying chip fitted? If not this could be the cause of your misfires if the air nozzle is returning too quickly to chamber a BB.

The DE M56 range is a good compromise between price, reliability and performance. Had my long version a few years, doesn't see a huge lot of use but always been reliable, and the quick fire system of holding the trigger while pumping to fire rapidly is useful, if a not very accurate way of shooting lol!

If a TM isn't working as it should you should stick to pressing for a full refund, certainly not paying for a fix. Bear in mind they have now admitted the hop was not right ie admitted the goods were faulty so they shouldn't quibble. They have a big reputation for customer service too.

Yes. The diameter (ie width) of the scope body is the size of ring mounts you will need, to fit on a Weaver / Piccatiny 20mm rail. 1 inch is the most common scope diameter iirc.

I bought a padded support gun sling for my Star M60E4 a few years back, think it was King Arms, and while its OK, it is still difficult to carry the gun slung on either side of the body as either the box mag or the bolt handle prevent it being comfortable. Carrying it slung on your back risks bb's escaping from the mag at a rapid rate. Not a good look! Also it only works with the gun at one side,sling over one shoulder, if the sling is fitted to the top buttstock loop, and then it lolls about in your face when you try to aim so its not terribly practical tbh.

Get a decent grip, I had a similar problem with a clone grip, couldn't push the motor far enough into the grip!