straffham

So 100:200 helicals are faster than 100:300 presumably? How do they measure up ratio wise against normal 18:1 flat gears?

What make is it? Only ask as I've had that problem on my JG UMP a couple of times after putting the gearbox back together during upgrades. Basically the cut off lever, trigger mech and trigger contact switch all interact with small tolerences, and while I can't explain WHY this happens, I have always put it down to something not going back EXACTLY in the right place during reassembly - basically I now know if the trigger clicks when reassembled it will not work properly just as you describe, and the wiring will get hot when tested with a battery connected. I suggest you check: 1. The battery is fully charged, wiring is not damaged or preventing the fire selector plate moving fully, and the motor connections are secure. 2. If the above doesn't cure it open the gearbox and check the trigger contacts aren't worn excessively and they contact fully when the trigger switch is pushed in. Also check the trigger cam engages correctly at the back of the trigger switch, a little grease on this area may help too. Finally check that with the trigger switch pressed in, the cut off lever will push it up so that it disengages from the trigger cam and is pulled back by the small spring (this last bit is fiddly to check as you really need 3 hands. . . .) 3. Reassemble and try again. This has always worked for me and been fine until dismantled again so hope it helps!

Does it come with a neon "AIM HERE" sign to stick on your head? Because you'd get rinsed real fast using one of those at pretty much any game owing to the "giving away your position" factor. No. Just no.

A guy at the site I play at bought one, he had a lot of problems which took a while to sort ( under warranty I presume) and he seems happy with it now. The TIER packages IIRC come with lots of extras like mags, sights, electronics, batteries etc which push the price up to not a whole lot less than a Systema, and if I was spending that sort of cash personally I'd go for the latter,well I can dream lol!

First off I've not owned one so can't speak from experience, the following is based on info I've read a while back. The TM FAMAS was pretty much the first proper AEG, but I've read in AI mag that its not easy to upgrade due to many non-standard parts. If I remember correctly the spring can be changed ok, but the motor (is it the EG560?) isn't very powerful and doesn't have the torque for higher power springs, and is pretty much unique to the version 1 gearbox meaning alternatives may be hard to find. The gears I believe are also unique to this box and, not being steel, may not stand up to much use with stronger springs - again,should the worst happen and a gear fail you may have trouble finding replacements. If you've had it a while it may be worth replacing the HOP rubber (I think its standard and genuine TM ones cost a mere fiver from Firesupport), and maybe consider a Madbull tightbore barrel which will help with accuracy and give a little more FPS. The power may be quite low in the FAMAS but they are reputed to be accurate if everything is working correctly. There is/was a ACM (chinese clone) FAMAS available which is supposedly more powerful so may be worth looking for one of those, possibly a damaged one, and salvage the gearbox from that? Hope this helps.

Is the small spring that pulls the switch away from the contacts working OK, and the trigger main spring seated properly?

Strange. . . . So the trigger physically locks back each time you pull it? On semi or auto, or both?

Not off the top of my head, could be an issue with the cut off lever, or more likely the trigger is slightly out contacting thetrigger switch. I've had that problem, way to tell is when you pull the trigger without a battery connected, if it clicks its not seated properly, it should just move smoothely and quietly, though I've not had issues of the trigger janming

Sounds like the issue is the pinion to bevel gear interface being too tight or even not meshing properly from what you say? Or could be the motor sticking in the grip, due to wiring possibly, and not going far enough into the gearbox? If the base plate snapped when screwing back onto the grip it sounds like the problem is that.

If the motor keeper plate has snapped it sounds as if the pinion gear is too tight against the bevel gear, preventing the motor moving into the gearbox sufficiently, which could also explain the whining. I usually just fit one shim on top of the bevel gear, which allows the motor the maximum amount of travel and I find, gives the best gear mesh. Other than that Did the gears all spin freely with the gearbox closed up? Could be the spur gear is tight against the sector gear so may need shims swapping around?

"FIRST & ONLY" have a couple of sites near Kidderminster, not sure how often games are though, their number is 07779157440 may be worth a try or Google them. Good luck and welcome to the Forum, and Airsoft!

With any big retailer you will always find some who have had issues, and its that small percentage who are understandably most vocal, while the vast majority who have had no problems go unnoticed. I've ordered from Airsoft World many times over the years and never had a problem. If they say something is in stock it always has been, unlike some retailers according to some posts I've seen on here recently. They have also been around a long time so they must be doing something right.

My Airsoft Innovations adapter came with a small dispenser bottle of silicon oil, assume they still do so? That valve looks different to the Coleman propane I use but could just be the camera angle? I'd get the adapter and take it to try for size tbh. I find propane a tad more powerful than green gas but not had any problems even in TM GBBs, doubt I'd risk that on a very hot day though!

At the end of the day, if you have your heart set on a GBB rifle for plinking then go for it, they are undoubtedly more "fun" to use than an AEG, just bear in mind that you will need to invest a lot more time and money in it than an AEG, also reliability is an issue and they don't work well in cold weather. I believe there are CO2 mags available for GBB M4s which would improve operation but I'm not familiar with them tbh.

They aren't that uncommon, do see a few at skirmishes. Think its more down to manufacturing capacity, M4 variants obviously sell best and with so many models and versions they don't get much capacity to produce anything else, though I agree the full length FAL/L1A1 is fairly niche probably on account of its size as much as anything else.

Even harder to find an Ares than a King Arms, and they're not reputed to be especially reliable, although the Ares is a more accurate replica. The L1A1/FAL seems to have sold quite well in UK as everywhere was selling them a few years back, but in a world wide perspective it probably doesn't. I'd also love an Ares L1A1 despite my misgivings if I'm honest.

And is the piston head vented (IE a ring of holes in the front face) or non vented?

Def sounds like air seal problem, either the piston head O ring or the hop rubber not sealing properly in the hop unit/barrel? Also has the cylinder got an air hole or is it solid?

My Ares M4 is front wired so changing springs in the original and the ZCI gearbox is easy - unscrew the stock tube nut then the stock tube unscrews out of the lower receiver, then remove the spring guide,its just a quarter turn with an allan key. Spring pops out, put new one in and reassemble. Job done. Same principle with stock tubes which are held on by a long bolt through the stock tube, just remove the bolt and pull the stock tube off then out with the spring guide. MUCH MUCH easier than removing the gearbox from the lower receiver, especially if you want to try different springs to achieve optimum fps.

I recently bought a ZCI Quick change spring V2 shell from Pete at ak2m4, for my Ares M4, quality is good and all the original parts fit fine, note it takes 8mm bearings/bushings which aren't supplied with the shell. Also it comes with trigger, contact switch,wiring and fire selector plate which seem unique to ZCI, but they've functioned fine on my gun so far. Rest of the parts should swap straight from your old gearbox. Only very minor issue was the circular opening where the HOP unit fits into the end needed slight filing to fit snuggly. I did find the new shell a fairly snug fit in the Ares receiver,not sure how that would be with G&P to be honest. Otherwise its great. Also recommend ak2m4 for parts, good price and service.

[quote name="alwaysontheoffensive" post="152001" timestamp="140329258 was looking at some 58 pattern, but it's not much use to me as i want something tougher and more modular like plce, plus mag pouches for the m4 are great. How about US M56 Nam era webbing?

This. Its often overlooked but an important point. No good having all the gear if you're going to be outpaced by light weight practical loadouts and even the new kid with only a hire G36 and 1 mag.

In common with most of the above, in the main I don't go with a particular loadout, just what works for me, DP M pants, Foliage green top or fleece, Webtex vest or a chest rig, and DPM cap or headscarf mainly. Occasionally I'll wear my Vietnam tiger stripes or WW2 German gear for specific games but generally its as above as I tend to do Woodland games. Hard to beat DPM for woodland IMHO.

44 and not quite so fit . . . . .

I'll second that, full length ones in particular!