Lozart

TMC make covers for the Airframe style hemets. Also worth looking at the FMA FTP bump in L/XL. If you take a look at FMA.hk they do actually give the head sizes they go up to. I have a 62cm noggin so I feel your pain, I have the L/XL Wendy knock off and its definitely a better fit. That said, my FMA PJ style FAST (the one with the oval vent holes) fits really well too in the L/XL size.

Depends if you want to rattle or not. If you buy 5 hi caps it's worth remembering that you won't need as many to hold the same amount of ammo! You could also look at King Arms mid caps https://airsoft.tiger111hk.com/Airsoft-Magazine-Std/Mid-AEG-Magazine/c43_261/p2687/King-Arms-G3-Series-130-rounds-Magazines-Box-Set-(5pcs)/product_info.html?osCsid=qtvcedihlghvj7du2ak30iaj97

Get a Specna One series instead. Way better.

Ant supplies have them for relatively cheap https://www.ant-supplies.uk/maintenance-and-care/cleaning-equipment/rifle-bench-vice-blocks.html

This came up when I googled "Swiss Army Load Bearing" from everything I can find, the M83 field jacket has built in load bearing to negate the need for a chest rig, belt kit seems to be used in some pics, otherwise it's the alpenflage backpack and the jacket pockets.

That's really not a lot of money. I'd be assuming this will go the same way as the SCAR and only make it to SF units to try out. The main reason the M4/M16 still hasn't been replaced is the sheer volume of them that they need to change out. From here: https://www.military.com/daily-news/2022/04/19/army-picks-its-replacement-m4-and-saw.html Given that the M4 to M4A1 upgrade plan was originally budgeted for 300,000 weapons and you'll see where I'm going with this.

I've not used one but I'm intrigued by the new style one. To address your point though: So you should be able to make it fit around your goggles. That said the mannequin does make it look like it's designed for a more "full seal" type goggle.

If it was an OEM spring they are often shorter than an aftermarket spring anyway.

As the OP has cut the spring down, there's every possibility that the spring is NOT under compression at the end of a cycle. @steverebo - if you open up the gearbox, with the piston and spring guide in place, is the spring under tension when the piston is fully forward or can it move freely back and forth?

Nicely done. It does speak to why you have your holster where you do though, always worth bearing in mind that game designers don't always place things because that's where they should be, so much as it's where it's easiest to put it for animating. As far as how you site your holster, it's a lot of personal preference but also a lot to do with ergonomics. If it's too far down your leg to draw without having to bend down/over then it's too far down. If it's moving about on your leg then it's too loose. In general drop leg holsters came about because people needed to draw around body armour and dropping the holster down gives you the clearance to do that. I'd highly recommend the Fobus EMC series (had one for ages for my HK45) but the draw does take a bit of getting used to and it would be nigh on impossible that far down your leg. I'd personally say that either a mid or low ride belt loop (safariland knock offs are easy to find and cheap) with a single leg strap nestled snugly in your crotch will make for a far easier life!

From their website: So they are a Chinese manufacturer that no doubt makes BBs for other people. They'll be cheaper because they're selling them direct without other peoples markups. This is the parent company (which explains why they make decent motors) https://www.ko-technologies.com/about-us Fun fact, I spent some time working about an hour up the road in Zhangjiagang.

Fixed that for you.

Stick your email into the stock notification here: https://www.tactical-kit.co.uk/axl-sandwich-bag-41285-p.asp Saves a chunk on shipping.

Does the recon not have an admin pocket in the top bit? Also - the AXL sandwich bag is basically exactly what you're after.

Probably so he can actually attach things to it.

Given that it's a REALLY cheap gun I'd suggest you leave it alone unless it breaks. Personally, I'd wait to get a better gun for actually using and THEN take the Lancer apart and fuck about with it to learn what you're doing to be able to fix the better one come the day that IT needs upgrading/fixing. That said, yes you can improve the longevity of a gun by improving the shimming, you can improve the performance by upgrading the air seal parts or the motor/spring but you can also fuck it completely and end up with no working gun at all.

It's funny I was going to post that exact link and then had a fit of snark. You're right of course but in all honesty google will be about as useful as asking without knowing what sort of stuff he's after beyond what fits on URX handguards.

https://lmgtfy.app/?q=airsoft+URX+rail+section

I literally charge them the day before a game and leave them in a LiPo bag until the next time I want to use them. I'm the poster boy for total lack of maintenance! I've never had a battery actually fail on me though, but I have binned a few due to having had them for years and them getting a bit puffy (abundance of caution and all that). Wouldn't surprise me at all if airsoft packs are made of B Grade cells though, the market is nowhere near the size of RC.

Not a bad habit by any means and certainly for the big RC packs it's a VERY good idea but equally it's by no means a necessity to storage charge every time you use a LiPo. Is it likely to improve the lifespan of the battery? Sure. Will it stop your house burning down? Only if you actually treat the batteries properly over and above the storage charging and don't use them once they inevitably start to degrade. I personally don't bother and have had more issues with batteries puffing up due to to being shit batteries than anything else. Since making sure I only get decent quality batteries, I don't have as much of an issue. Plus if one does start to puff up, I fuck it off and buy a new one because they're just not that expensive.

Without knowing which way you're planning to go, not really. In general though, they're...ok. I did a build with 16:1 gears and a basic mosfet a few years back and it's held up OK so far but the blowback function is pneumatic and uses a hole in the top of the cylinder to bleed off air to make it work. My advice there would be to swap the cylinder for a standard one without the hole as it will help with power and consistency enormously. IIRC the gearbox has cast ridges on the inside that makes it a pain to use something like a Gate Aster as the ribs need removing to be able to put the stickers on the gearbox. I wouldn't go mad with it though, the front of the gearbox shell is known for being a bit fragile (unless of course you just HPA it in which case the world is your crustacean).

High torque? High Speed? DSG wanker gun or DMR?

Why are you storage charging it? Are you planning on putting it away for a while?

Well....yeah. Let's be honest. I suppose I try and look at it like the rugby vs football thing (a hooligans game played by gentleman) whereby it's a kids game played by grown ups but the more I see the more I realise that just isn't so.

Welcome back. As for sacrificial lenses, in photography where neutral filters are cheap and available and designed to fit in the threaded lens housing, you're basically buying a thing that is not designed as a sacrificial item to be sacrificial because it's cheap. In airsoft there's loads of killflash fittings that slide into or over the lens tube so it makes sense to pursue that avenue for sacrificial lens protection as opposed to making a threaded fitting which would be more expensive. In terms of the rail mounted ones, I agree that they are ugly AF but again, the rail space available makes it easy to fit and forget.