Lozart

Sony only just stopped making PS2s last year (in Japan granted but there you go).

Companies will continue to develop for last gen for a while yet, there's a massive customer base that hasn't bought in to the new hardware and probably won't until at least the first major price drop.

I would suggest you actually use an L98 in cadets. May of which have a plain barrel extension rather than a "birdcage" style flash hider. Like these: The M4 that your CM16 replicates is supposed to have a flash hider. Leaving it off will just make it look like you've broken your gun. When you pull the charging handle back it SHOULD pull the ejection port dust cover back allowing you to gain access to the hop up adjuster, like this: If that's not the case either you're not pulling it back far enough or there's something wrong with it and you should get it looked at.

The metal receiver won't have the loops you refer to. The upper slides on from the front.

Fill your boots mate!

Go take a look at the Replica Prop Forum www.therpf.com they have loads of foam builds on there (including Iron Man, Mass Effect, WH40K). It's not hard to do but it's tricky to do well.

Two questions - one, what do you mean about never using the flash hider again and two by "the thing behind the sights" do you mean the charging handle (the bit you pull back to get at the hop unit)?

Just to go back to the practicality issue, I notice you've got a SCAR H and a Desert Eagle. If these are your main guns then they will most likely dictate what pouches/holsters you can reasonably use. You certainly won't be looking at things like a Recon Chest Rig for example (they're generally only compatible with 5.56mm mags). There's LOADS of surplus desert kit floating about out there for very little money so maybe start with a DDPM UBACS shirt and trousers. Over that I'd look for a tan MOLLE chest rig or plate carrier so you can start finding mag pouches that will fit. Duty belt to hang a holster from (separate from whatever holds your trousers up), plus the holster (ask Black Death which ones he uses as I believe he dual wields DEagles). Also - boots. If you're wearing trainers now, look for decent lightweight ones otherwise your legs will die after half a day! Meindl Desert Foxs are good and light and gettable for about £40 surplus (not waterproof mind).

MOE AEG grip - the TM original on my M4 is starting to strip the screws in the baseplate 40mm gas MOSCARTs to replace my ZCA ones that just don't work reliably.

That is possibly the funniest thing I've seen all week. Thanks for posting that!

It actually looks a lot like some of the guns in Mass Effect. And THAT armour is a LOT more practical.....

You know how you only ever see Stormtroopers doing a funny little jog in the movies? Never actually running? Yeah....that.

I don't do the whole "replica" loadout thing so mine's more what works (for me at least) - Coyote tan BDU trousers (because they have plenty of pockets and double reinforced seat and knees plus the have plenty of room to move about) a UBACS shirt for the wicking body (for the sweating) and heavier sleeves (for the protection). Tan baseball cap and boots to finish off. Start with what works and go from there really.

Just as an aside - if it's still got the original TM motor and it says EG1000 on the side, leave it alone until it breaks (if it breaks) it's plenty high enough torque for an M100 spring. I run mine on 7.4 LiPos and it's fine (and it's connected through standard Tamiya connectors too by the way).

I knew there was something I didn't like about you....

Yeah, damn businesses trying to make money. Damn them all to hell.

Just to go back to your original point though - you won't get a higher rate of fire from the MOSFET alone, a higher power battery will help but if you're looking for silly high numbers (25rps and up) then you're into changing gear ratios, swiss cheesing the piston etc etc. Just wanted to clarify that. Not sure if you realised is all.

Pretty much. Airsoft guns are simple beasts. As for jcheese - stick around, he grows on you

Is this not the gun with Systema internals though?

Ah but do you need to improve it?

Are you trying to achieve a specific look? If not the best bet for a metal body for a G&G gun is the G&G metal bodies I linked to. As jcheeseright said the blowback gearbox in your gun isn't necessarily going to fit into another manufacturers body. I know it's very easy for us all to sit here and tell you to spend more than you really want to but honestly - learn from our mistakes. We've already spent more time, effort and money than strictly speaking necessary to get where you want to so save your cash and either get a different gun or buy the right parts in the first place. It's not the big parts that catch you out it's things like - does the new receiver come with a charging handle? If not, will the old charging handle fit properly? If it does, will the new charging handle clear the gearbox properly? Will the wiring still fit where it needs to? Is the hop unit compatible with the receiver (rare that you find one that isn't to be fair but it happens). It WILL NOT be as straightforward as it seems on the surface. All that said - the things I've learned throughout the experience will serve me well as I continue to airsoft and no doubt get badgered to fix my mates guns!

Can you solder? It's really NOT that hard. You could try Kingdon of Airsoft in Dundee http://www.kingdomofairsoft.com/

Stop beating around the bush and say what you really mean!

I have the newer KK2 version of that FET and it does do some cool stuff as plug and play (burst fire for example) but not the things you're looking for. If you go to the manufacturers website you can download a copy of the manual http://www.aegwizard.com/uploads/BURST_WIZARD_KING_KONG_SUPER_user_manual_7_0.pdf You program it by a number of trigger pulls and the LED flashes to confirm what you've done. It's a nice FET but you do really need it hardwired.