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The very few times I played at Ravens I only took my M4 with a variable short dot - I never really needed all of the magnification and kept it on 1.5x most of the time. If it's just an AEG, then frankly a regular dot or holographic sight is enough and you won't need magnification. Ravens isn't a huge site anyway, but Gunman is a little larger and less forest-y (which I assume is the one you're on about too as it's the only one in Tuddenham). Either way, using a magnified optic is usually more hassle than it's worth and it's worth very little in most cases; it takes longer to aim with. The G&P M2 style aimpoints are very rugged, and there are loads of brands that make holographic knock-offs too which you could go for. I think WE still get decent reviews for theirs. I just bought a UTG 4.2" ITA after seeing some recommendations on here, but that was primarily because I've broken quite a few with blow back - on an AEG this isn't going to be much of an issue so go for what you like the look of. Those are quite cheap too if you look overseas.

Jesus man - use that edit button. I think what's being said is using an HPA tank like any green gas container and filling the magazines - not tapping them for HPA. As has been said, you wouldn't get the volume of air required for probably more than a few shots.

You need a reg unless you want to pump 300 bar into your magazine and have it blow up

Same here. I've moved so much the past few years that anyone I've got to know plays somewhere I don't now, but airsofters are very polite and will take any opportunity to talk about what they've brought with them, so striking up a conversation is easy and many will do it with you if they notice you're new. It's a team based game a lot of the time, and if you find yourself next to others then you will end up communicating (at the very least shouting out where the other team are), so it's not awkward at all. There will also be the classic 'man by tree' telling you to move up the whole time. Also, welcome to the forums.

Fair enough.

This is some chain mail schitt right here.

You know your can multiquote or edit your posts rather than triple posting 60m with a G&G CM-16 that I presume they're testing on .20g? Maybe if you're trying to hit a car sized target. Anyhoo, Airsoft World don't have the best customer service. It's still a GC-16 by the way - internally identical to all the other CG16s really. In the end though, as has been said multiple times: It's your choice. The ICS and G&G brands at an entry level are going to be largely the same. Go for cosmetics.

What kind of bucking are you using that requires the modified arm? Surely it's pointless without some sort of flat hop to make the most of that extra surface area.

Tight bore on a springer sniper rifle when you're R-Hopping? Surely you jest.

No probs. 1) Silicone probably not, but maybe look into FrogLube as that's very good on metal. Just requires a hair dryer to apply properly. It's also brilliant and catching dirt and making it easy to clean off I've found. I use it in my M4 which gets very messy internally a lot of the time. 7) There are a bunch of homebrew mods out there, but it's all the same principle - make the contact area of the arm longer, and (in most cases) taller so you can 'turn on more hop' and get a more even hop across an R-Hop patch. It was actually DangerWerx that made them: http://dangerwerx.com/vsr-10-h-e-levers/ Spring ratings you can calculate roughly on PDI's distributor website: http://www.x-fire.org/etop/bolt_sp.html - looks like the 310 for the thinner springs will give you 500, which is an incredibly high tension spring that could make cycling a real bitch (though these are smaller diameter springs so are easier to compress). See http://www.x-fire.org/etop/bolt_sp_thicker.html for the large diameter springs. Upgrade everything else first anyway or you'll bust the sear. A good piston and head will give you a noticeable FPS boost anyway. If you end up buying some springs then get a couple of different ones, see what works then sell the others. PDI springs are hard to get in the UK and sell quite quickly for close to what you pay for them.

1. Yes, but not much - what are you using as lube? Cleaning is much more necessary as lots of gunk can get in there between the cylinder and receiver 2. Yes, though less necessary. Stops undue wear on the cylinder and piston 3. Guide rod just helps with consistency and is there to prevent jamming or the spring jumping out of place/doubling over if it gets caught on the side of the piston as you say. Without the guide it's going to reflex(?) from a weird 'U' shape as it'll simply be bent up against the side of the cylinder 4. It's Laylax's trigger mech. Nicer sear that will wear less and better designed trigger as a whole. Can be adjusted to give a much lighter trigger pull. In my opinion the Airsoft Pro one is just as good and much cheaper 5. Near impossible but doesn't really matter - so long as your FPS is stable I wouldn't worry. Aftermarket cylinder, piston and head will help with this, but just make sure the piston head hasn't got any undue wear or tearing on the o-ring (if you have one) and consider some PTFE/Teflon tape on the threads of the cylinder head. Remember the design of the cylinder is such that there's just a single o-ring on the piston stopping all that air (that's generally at a higher compression than in an AEG), so without aftermarket parts it's hard to do 6. Filling the stock adds weight and dampens sound (dampens sound quite a bit I should say). A lot of people apply more weight to the front or rear to suit them or just add foam to make it a little quieter 7. The one thing the VSR-10 has wrong with it is the hop arm doesn't protrude enough to lift weights above ~.35g when it's stock and also isn't really flat enough for an R-Hop. A lot of people mod the arm so it can lift heavier BBs - doing this and applying an R-Hop patch will give you enough to lift up to .45g and above. I think ASPUK does a pre-modified hop arm (they're certainly available somewhere if not there)

How else will I catch the BBs fired at me?

There's already punctuation for sarcasm btw. It's (!) on subtitles and there also ⸮ for irony. Something tell me neither of these will do anything but add to the confusion though so it's probably best we avoid. That said, if ya can't tell from context then it's your own fault, heh.

I tried looking for manuals too but can find none. If you can't get it working it's possible something is missing or snapped. You may have to get a new one.

It was an April fools joke. I mean Airsoft GI are pretty dumb, but not that dumb. Not that the concept is actually dumb as dimples do make things more aerodynamic, but manufacturing them wouldn't happen.

I'm afraid this is well beyond my areas of expertise, but I can tell you that these are where the springs are going to end up. The area boxed in red should have something running along it - could be the plastic bit on the left.

Hey, welcome to the forums. Can't see your picture. Try uploading it somewhere like http://imgur.com and post the link.

.12s are my weight of choice for sniper rifles as even the slightest wind can curve them right around any cover someone is behind. The extreme hop means I can flip the gun upside down and rain BBs down behind cover too.

Not nearly enough registered trademarks to compete with the likes of Nuprol.

Maybe I've missed the giggle, but: I think they mean washing them before using them (i.e. when they're new), which is equally pointless. Some companies use a dry lubricant during the polishing process that stays on the BBs - I say simply don't use those brands as it builds up in your barrel a lot quicker. It's hard man. There's so much confusion in this thread that I can't tell joke from serious - I guess we can call it a success. On the upside, if you're a sniper using Mixed Weight™ PREmium-owned® BBs, then your shots are going to land in completely different places and the enemy is going to have no idea where you're shooting from. There's big potential for this I tell ya.

Yep, they'll all do fine as entry level guns.

I took my BBs to my friend who is an airsoft tech and he said there are 50 million things wrong with them. I need my money back.

I apply camo cream to all of my BBs anyway so that no one sees them coming.

Did you remove the foam from the top and bottom? That helps a great deal.

Try here: http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/28004-tm-vsr-10-mancraft-mod-guide/