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proffrink

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Everything posted by proffrink

  1. Yeh, you're probably correct but if the mag is also not seating high enough then it becomes an issue that only shimming/getting a new mag catch can do. I went through all of this with my G&P WOC when I was fitting the new GHK mags. Bit of a farce, and initially I just sanded down and shimmed the mag well where required. Ultimately it look a new catch. Again though, as you say, the catch was less obtrusive as it is in an M14. As you say, with the M14 the catch is to the rear so that makes me think this thing is at the wrong angle rather than being too far forward or backward which a shim isn't going to help with. Reece, can you try and get a more accurate idea of how the magazine isn't seated correctly? Too far forward/backwards or whether it needs pushing up and forwards for example? From the video it actually looks like you're pushing it forward and upwards (i.e. rotating it), which a shim isn't going to help much with given the way that M14 magazines insert. Edit ...unless you're very careful about it. I'd recommend perhaps shimming with epoxy than sanding it so that it's flush at the very bottom of the mag well and not at the top (basically a slight incline/wedge). That way it won't obstruct reloads. You're looking at a fair bit of work though.
  2. Done: http://eagle6.co.uk/shop/catalog/product/view/id/318/s/laylax-prometheus-hop-up-rubber-bucking-nub-tensioner-soft-purple/ or http://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/prometheus-hop-rubber-soft-aeg-purple
  3. It's a different mag, but there are adaptors out there so you can take the STANAG style and others. G36 magazines are fairly unique.
  4. Well you'll need to ascertain if the mag is rotated incorrectly or if it's just sitting too far back. If you're needing to push the bottom of the magazine forwards (i.e. towards the barrel) then you may be counteracting the fact that it's mis-seated as it's dropping down where the magazine meets the hop unit - in other words it's rotated wrong. Laying epoxy is only going to push the mag forwards, not upwards at all (if it's hanging lose). If it is misaligned due to rotation of the mag, I'd advise checking the magazine catch and seeing if you can shim that with epoxy instead. I have provided an A+ diagram to help explain what I'm on about. Red is the mag and the blue is the shim. So in this case the shim helps as it's pushing the mag forward to line up with the hop unit. In this case a mag that's sagging at either the front or rear isn't going to be helped much by shimming the mag well. This is generally down to a mag catch being worn.
  5. Don't sugar-coat it Chris. Tell us how you really feel. You're completely right though. Who doesn't come with enough money to buy a £7.50 bottle of BBs when they're in need?
  6. Ah well. Threads on forums don't get replies instantly - certainly give it more than 3 hours next time if you can. Anyhoo, the Lonex will be fine.
  7. I detest paint schemes on guns beyond your usual black/tan/OD, but I can see why some people would do it. It's the personal touch.
  8. Yeh, I've used them before. They actually have their own subforum on here: http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/forum/88-airsoft-supply-drop/ By the way, you can also get the waffle design AK74 mags if you so desire.
  9. MAG make decent ones: http://www.airsoftsupplydrop.co.uk/store/mag-ak74-100-rds-mid-cap-airsoft-magazine-black-box-set.html They do 140rd ones too, but I can't see them on that site. Also the 140 ones are longer. Edit Here's a picture as I know there's not one on that site: http://www.airsoftoutletnw.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/1000x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/m/a/mag_ak74_black_midcap_magazine_5_pack.jpg
  10. Just shim the magwell with some epoxy. Turn the gun upwards (so it doesn't run anywhere) and apply a thin layer to the rear magwell wall. Let it dry, then do this as many times as you need until you've built up a layer that will push your magazine forward those 1-2mm so that it fires correctly. It's not a conventional solution, but it should work and won't be noticeable. Also, epoxy is very hard wearing once its cured. To me the issue just looks like a poorly made magwell. Not your fault.
  11. The ones BrightCandle recommended should perform slightly better in the UK than the Lonex. What attracted you to the Lonex one?
  12. Check out the appraisals thread Monty was on about: http://forums.zeroin.co.uk/showthread.php?262945-TM-vsr-I-know-nothing-about He knew what he was doing.
  13. What a nonce. £250 is about 50% more than he should be charging for such a beaten up VSR anyway (if it were a TM).
  14. After I'm done with this M870 build, I'm looking at the PDI M40A3: http://www.x-fire.org/special/e.new_complete.html Did it catch your eye too?
  15. How can you tell? I'm not well versed in the VSR clones.
  16. Did your old KJW M9 have a stamp on the trigger guard?
  17. It's going to be the STTI though because KJW have always marked their guns in some way even if it's just a tiny stamp on the trigger guard.
  18. No rail. Also, AFAIK the KJ Works ones have always had a small trade somewhere. On that one according to Google it's on the other side where the trigger guard is.
  19. Plastic slide? Can't tell from the light and those marks. I'm guessing not if it says 'made in Taiwan'.
  20. Best get that confirmed by someone, but AFAIK G&G are TM based when it comes to rails.
  21. I can answer the bit about outer barrels: You're going to want any standard AEG type outer barrel. 5KU and DYTAC make good ones for a decent price - DYTAC may be the place to start if you want a silver one, but 5KU make them too. I know this is obvious, but remember you'll need a new inner barrel too - if you're going for HPA, then it may be desirable to go for a decent wide bore barrel as FPS shouldn't be an issue for you and that air cushion will increase the guns consistency. Perhaps also consider an R-Hop to get those most out of an HPA system. Attempting to answer the rail bit: Any TM spec rail should fit your receiver. Consider the DYTAC UXR or Bravo maybe. Bear in mind some rail types require a delta ring and crown - that's a whole other kettle of fish and can require tooling to rethread, but if you're going for a keymod then you should be fine as these will fit right on. Edit Some links to have a look at. Barrel http://www.shootercbgear.com/product_info.php?products_id=3944&osCsid=1gvehtb5ulgdm9fngcp2l1o453 Rail http://www.shootercbgear.com/product_info.php?products_id=9400 - loadsa money though
  22. You're missing the point slightly: Anything with magnification that's costing you less than £60 is probably going to be naff. Even if it's not, in most games (And with almost all guns) you don't need the magnification - you'll be able to aim quicker without it. You need an incredibly reliable setup to get the consistency to use a scope. Otherwise, your BBs are just veering off out of view and you'll have no idea where you're shooting.
  23. I should say I meant cheap magnified optics. The 1x ones are generally fine regardless of price because it's nothing but a single lens. I'm sure a 1x ACOG would be great as well.
  24. As jcheese said: It'll probably just slow you down. I've had a couple of cheapo scopes and couldn't put up with the poor lens quality - my advice would be a cheap red dot and then go from there.
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