proffrink

Hey Conrad. Welcome to the forums. First things first: I mean this in the most polite way possible - all the questions you're asking have been asked before and the answers can be found by searching on the forums. I don't say this because we're lazy, but that you may get an answer much quicker and more completely if you check other people's threads first. That looks like a good setup for a first game. The only thing I might add is a couple more bottles of BBs and maybe an extra magazine, though the BBs can usually be bought on site. As far as ownership and purchase of an airsoft gun goes, there's no 'licence', but what you do need is something called a 'valid defence if questioned' (basically you need to be able to prove you play airsoft occasionally) if you want to own something that's an RIF (i.e. isn't 51% brightly coloured and looks very, very similar to the real thing). The most common form of defence is something called UKARA membership/registration - it's a database of airsoft players and, to cut a long story short, you can get one by printing off a form and attending a UKARA registered site (basically all of them) and getting this form stamped 3 times (once every time you go) in no less than 2 months between the first and last game. This gives you the ability to register with a UKARA registered retailer (again, basically all of them) and obtain a number tied to your name and address so that you can prove your defence easily when buying a gun. It is not the only form of defence, but it's the easiest to check and has a bit of paperwork. That's why people mistakenly think it's a licence - which it certainly is not as the liability for the purchase of a gun is on the seller, not the buyer. Again, this does not apply to you right now as a brightly coloured gun is an IF (Imitation Firearm) not an RIF (Realistic Imitation Firearm) - easy to get confused. As far as IFs go (i.e. brightly coloured guns), all you need to be is over 18 years of age to purchase one. Your son is completely fine borrowing it and using it and sites won't mind at all. More on this in the UK Law forum stickies: http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/forum/12-uk-law/ and this thread: http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/12854-new-player-guides-info/ - also a tip I wish I'd been told when I started: 'VCRA' is not a horrible misspelling of 'UKARA' - they are two totally separate things. VCRA (Violent Crimes Reduction Act) is the law around owning RIFs and IFs and UKARA (United Kingdom Airsoft Retailers Association) is an organisation set up to provide easily provable defences for players (and the ability to check those defences by retailers). For your first purchase you seem to have everything covered - the G&G CM16 series are solid guns and ones we recommend to a lot of first time players. Full face protection (i.e. both eyes and mouth) is required by I think all sites for players under the age of 16-18 for insurance liability reasons so you're covered on that front too - see Tad's post. Over this age you're only required to wear eye protection, though face protection is recommended as teeth have been known to go missing. Also, boots or at least hiking shoes are a good idea as well as we go into Autumn. However, I should note that buying a gun is not totally necessary if you don't want to. Many sites offer rental at around ~£15-25 ontop of your entry fee, so that's always an option too and indeed recommended in some cases if you want to get that UKARA form stamped up for the first 3 games whilst renting before buying something that's an RIF (i.e. black or not brightly coloured) instead of an IF. Edit Added some links

This was almost a year ago. Guy hasn't even been online since January

Nope, in fact the magazine I took apart is basically brand new - certainly never skirmished.

Possibly, but I certainly can't make it out from above. Anyhoo, mine is in the same place as yours now and I still have problems every 3rd magazine or so. Hm.

Good price on the 232 - as you say, you're not losing anything. I was just surprised by the hydrotesting bit but at that price I can see why 3300 is still enough, and if you have a car you can just fill it up from the tank you bring with you when you get low. Problem with the larger bore is again the US QD fitting - Beesting cater to usual HPA users and not Daytona Gun, so they wouldn't know the difference. The EU fittings are a very new thing (to DG owners) that even Tony hasn't picked up on yet as it maximised airflow. I would not be surprised if DG begins to switch over to EU fittings in a year or so. Also that line has two QD fittings, so I hope they can make one of those just a normal fitting (though as you say they should be able to, and the page states you can choose any 1/8 fitting). So US QD fittings are obviously smaller, but I'll get the exact measurements off the chap from HPAirsoft as Googling will take some time and I'm lazy. I'll also get you a picture of my US one vs my new EU one. Rest assured though, the EU one still fits straight onto the reg. If you're not going for an IGL/DIGL then EU is most certainly the better option. If you do go for an IGL then unless you can un-shrink-wrap the ends of the IGL and fit an EU fitting onto it, it could be a pain. will update the thread with all that later in the day. I'd certainly take something on like that as a small side project, but it depends how confident you are. So the hop unit as it stands is a metal grub screw that pushes down on the bucking - that's cool, but it's metal on plastic and lots of people have switched to a nylon screw or have put a 3mm Delrin ball under the grib screw (Deltrin being an incredibly unreactive plastic that is not corroded or warped by anything your gun can get near) to even the hop. I think the majority of people are doing this for their R-Hops - but you should be getting one of those anyway

That wooden furniture is gunna warp if they keep taking pictures of it in a sauna.

That can depend on whether it's an adjustable or fixed hop up - it's probably fixed, and if that's the case it's probably made for 0.20g BBs, not 0.12g. It's also possible that a poor design means it's simply overhopping and curving upwards into the sky like people say, or they're also using lighter 0.12g BBs that it's not designed for. This is not a problem you can really get around without switching the weight of the BB or adjusting the hop to a lower setting (which I doubt is possible on such a budget as they tend to be fixed). Hop helps massively with any airsoft gun to keep a flatter trajectory over long distances. If you're only shooting between 10-15m you won't notice it, but at about 20m it becomes very obvious as your BB either flies upwards (too much hop) or just drops to the ground (too little hop). A heavier BB will want to drop quicker, but with a good hop will actually go a lot further than a lighter BB and that's why most airsoft guns are designed for using 0.20g or over - even the very cheap ones.

Ah, looked plastic to me and not very sturdy so I didn't fiddle with it - I'll do the same with mine if it's wrong. First BB loads on the right but I still have an issue with maybe 1 in 3 mags. I don't really see why it'd make a difference as the mag lip is identical and the follower is symmetrical (i.e. dips the same to the front and rear).

Ok, I'm back. Pretty easy to take apart, but I'll get to that in a sec. The follower has a 'tab' on it which means you can't flip it around or it won't push down into the magazine. Simple as. Here's a pic: Notice tab running along the 'BB well' and how it would interfere with the magazine wall after about the ~4th BB if flipped Here's the follower with the tab pointing towards the camera Edit Lazy disassembly guide: Remove all BBs Hammer out two pins on the side of magazine Remove metal 'shroud' of mag (or plastic if you have a plastic one) On one end you with see a flat head slot made of plastic - turn this 90 degrees and remove the spring (it will be under tension, obviously) Remove plastic 'shroud' - you will notice a spring pushes this upwards. Remove the spring first, then pull the plastic part upwards and off (you may need to deform the plastic slightly to do this by pulling it away from the body of the magazine - you'll see what I mean) Remove 4 screws - they are inset and you may need a glasses/jewellers screwdriver (Philips head) Remove side of magazine You're done.

I always get the last BB problems with my Well magazines - are you sure it's not just the follower design. I've had to be very careful towards the end of the mag. I'm going to need to go and check now. I'll disassemble it and get back to you.

Yeh, or use imgur.com as Photobucket is shit.

Hey Robert. Welcome to the forums. Krytacs are brilliant guns from all of the reviews, so good choice. I saw your thread on ZeroIn. I would wait there as it gets a lot more traffic and you can get those appraised quite quickly, but I'm sure we can give it a shot too. From a quick glance that seems like an alright deal and you may make a little money from it, but it's all dependant on their condition and lots of people like pictures - that's probably why no one has replied to your thread. Do the leg and throw some pictures up on there so people can see the condition too. I can at least tell you that TM Desert Eagle will go for £100 quickly or up to £120 a bit slower, depending on the condition. Is it the back or chrome coloured one? This is why we need pictures.

Ok, just bear in mind that 232 bar won't give you near to 4500 psi - it'll give you 3300 at most. Take your tank in to the scuba shop with you and see if they can fill that at the same time for you so you at least get one fill at 4500. Did your tank not come with at least a couple of years left on its test? Also, for all Tony's great products he's a terrible communicator. Make it very, very clear what you want as shipping is a lot of money. Get a spare bucking for $20 as these usually cost $20 + $22 shipping (which is insane). He runs a flat rate shipping service, so get everything in one or two goes because if you need to go back you'll have issues. But at least two bottles of GetSome 1000 from him as that's the recommended lube. Ask for the needle bottles as this is easier to apply (I got the spray ones and they're a bit annoying as they can get on the exterior quite easily and it's a pain to wipe off). As for the reg: Ask them to remove the line and preferably just remove the QD that's directly on the reg. If you're buying your wide bore separately then I'm not sure, though recently I've just bought an EU sized QD (which is a larger bore than the crappy US ones) and this may be the better option. They can be had very cheap from HPAirsoft and will go straight on to your Firebase regulator with ease. I had to use two spanners to remove the old hose Tony attached, but it wasn't too much of an issue and I assume the same amount of effort would be required to remove a double QD line - get the wide bore line, the flex fitting (great if you don't plan on buying an IGL from TNK) and a spare EU size QD if you just want to attach to the macro line directly (though it does of course come with one - I just grabbed a spare for an M870 and for repairs as buying in the UK can only be done in sets of 5). I would recommend you not buy the wide bore in the UK as almost all use US QD fittings (surprisingly). Remember when you reattach to preferably have pneumatic sealant (about £8 from eBay) or at the very least some PTFE/Teflon tape. And remember the Techt Gunsav grease for your Firebase. Usual reminder: Don't use oil based lubricants in your HPA setup from tank to end of line to be safe. Using it in your gun is fine but GetSome is very good and not oil based anyway. The input line for the DG is simply a 6mm macro line that all current HPA engines (Polarstar, SMP etc) come with as standard. However, Tony does sell an 'IGL' (grip line) that should fir the 416. This gives better airflow and is harder-wearing plus if you get it from him it'll screw directly onto the engine with no modification - at $20 it's a good idea, but I'm not sure how easy it is to replace the US QD on the end of that with an EU QD if you go with the wide bore line from HPAirsoft. I had no choice with my 249 as it can't fit an IGL anyway. The 6mm macro is weak, and that's why I got the flex fitting from HPAirsoft and was happy with it as an alternative to the IGL that I can't get (which replaces the entire marco line). It fitted in the grip nicely. I've also been told HPAirsoft intend to make their own EU-sized grip line attachments by the end of the year, but that's a while away so hey. Final note: a lot of people recommend a Delrin ball for the hop up or a nylon screw as they don't warp but wear less on the bucking. If you want a 3mm Delrin ball then I'm happy to post you one for nowt as I have a bag of them because I couldn't buy them individually.

Content is content. Whether it's a post asking about UKARA or a video about milsim.

Difference in performance? They're basically identical. Difference in how they work mechanically? Similar but parts are certainly not exchangeable and the magazines are different. As far as I know the AK has slightly more recoil but it's marginal and mostly down to the fact that an AK receiver (in airsoft at least) weighs a little less. With an optic and such I imagine you wouldn't be able to notice the difference. The magazines are the same capacity gas wise and that's the big limiting factor with a GBBR, so they're by-and-large the same but it's of course about what look you're after. Both are pretty iconic, but AKs are less popular and therefore a little more unique, but then they're not quite as modular as the M4 and also have less external part availability (though you can still find everything you'd want). I guess the good (and bad, depending on how you look at it) thing about any of the Kalashnikov family is they tend to look worse the more attachments and the like that you put on them, but sometimes the M4 is improved by a scope, rail, foregrip etc. Again though, that's all about your own taste. Edit I should clarify I'm talking about the GHK AK vs the GHK M4. If you were talking about GHK AK vs Tippman M4 then you may wish to rephrase. English is important yo.

I forgot to mention this in my other post, but there's a chap that machines full steel GHK internals for $175 a pop. I can put you in touch if you need.

Don't short stroke too much or you'll go blind.

VCRA only covers point of sale and the liability is on the seller, not you. As others have said, you're fine. The retailer on the other hand should know better.

Yeh, steel is actually a poor choice of metal a lot of the time because it's incredibly hard. A combination of different materials (brass, aluminium, steel and alloys) means you spread wear throughout the system and only have smaller parts fail rather than a catastrophic failure. Hopefully GHK has done just that because their stuff seems to be very hard wearing so far (though it's still early days given how new their products are).

Ah, I see what you mean now. It is super dumb, because most cap guns are 80-100% the size of their 'counterparts' and should also be banned by the same logic. VCRA is quite poorly written and the whole bit about guns seemed really tacked-on in general; it was mostly to combat anti-social behaviour outside pubs anyway if one reads it.

Unfortunately people will probably still skip it. In an age of lazy typing and even lazier, impersonal interactions on the internet it's all too easy to just ask your question and expect someone else to do the leg work for you. It's unfortunate because when I started out it was just before the whole VCRA changes in 2007 and no one had any idea what it meant anyway so I had to go and look it up myself - I never go on a forum and ask a question without searching first because I get the answer quicker. A nice side effect is that I also don't waste people's time. The answers are out there if you just Google for 30 minutes, but some people can't even be bothered to do that a lot of the time.

I'm not seeing how that's applicable as those are clearly a bright colour - many cap guns are not and that's what's being asked here. Am I missing something? Didn't know Glock made revolvers, heh.

They're inbetween - not the best possible (but that you can only get through aftermarket stuff) but certainly better than the WOC or KWA internals. They're good and should last a long time with the proper lube.

That's probably because VCRA itself isn't exactly clear cut. Would you care to show us one of these threads?

Maybe an amendment to this: http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/1254-popular-ukara-questions/