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Which just goes to show you how totally unenforceable and poorly written VCRA is in many cases. UKARA was made as a means to make sure airsoft alone could continue in its current form and to defend a lot of the flack it gets, but you're quire right in that many cap guns look realistic are are actually meant to be solid in the same way if they're a replica. What you may find is the size is different. I'm not sure on the exact figures, but I think it's between 50-70% of the size of the real thing makes it no longer an RIF or even an IF. I remember reading about this somewhere years ago as that's what stops the same VCRA legislation applying to something like a keyring in the shape of a gun. Also, many have glued on orange tips which is apparently enough I'd assume.

Went to there guys to get a wide bore line for my DG - they also do the Daytona and Polarstar kits as well as lots of other HPA stuff like tanks at cheaper prices than I've seen in the UK. Service was excellent and delivery was quick. Dispatch was delayed but they apologised and added a reinforced QD point for free to make up for it. Would certainly use them again.

Buy £130 G&G Spend remaining £70 on rail and stock ??? Profit etc.

Ah ok, that's good. If you're 18 now then just get that UKARA sorted out maybe - it saves a lot of hassle and you'll be able to sell off the old stock and rail quite easily to someone and get back a few quid.

No problem - welcome to the forums. Have you been airsofting before?

First things first: Replacing those brightly coloured rails is considered 'manufacturing an RIF' and is not legal without a valid defence. More information on that in this subforum: http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/forum/12-uk-law/ - your best option at this point as a new player is to go along to some games and get a feel for it - get your site membership and get a UKARA number registered as well. It'll allow you to get to know what gun you might really want too - M4s look cool, but there are plenty of others out there that you may not have even considered until you go and have a play around with them or see other people with them. Anyway, to answer your question: Refitting the rails isn't too tricky, but any modification in airsoft does require getting your hands dirty a bit. Standard AEGs sometimes come with a 'delta ring' - this is a generic fitting that can fit a large number of rails - that's one option, but the picture you've given and the link to the gun you have there don't have one of them so you're slightly more limited but certainly not completely as actually the rails without delta rings are easier to work with - it's just a matter of undoing screws with allen keys and fitting a new one and is in fact easier than grappling with a delta ring. Here's a link to the rails you see in that photo you've provided: http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/madbull-9-inch-daniel-defense-lite-rail-picatinny-handguard-sand.html#.Vf_bXcOD7-U UK link: http://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/madbull-9-inch-daniel-defense-lite-rail-picatinny-handguard-sand If you've been watching the Airsoft GI videos, you probably seen this: ...Which is a video demonstrating removal of a delta ring (pretty hard on some AEGs by some brands). Again though, if you're looking at a gun without a delta ring (which you have indeed linked to) then it's much easier and simply requires a set of allen keys and some elbow grease. As for starter guns (which I assume you're curious about too as it's the title of the topic). The G&G CM16s are good; I'm not sure if I'd bother with their blow-back ones initially but I have no first-hand experience with them so maybe someone else can offer up some advice. It really depends on how much you are happy to spend - what's your budget?

Out of the box: GHK > Tippman > KWA > WA (G&P/Prime/Inokatsu) > WE Upgradability: WA (G&P/Prime/Inokatsu) > KWA > WE > GHK > Tippman There are loads and loads and loads of parts for the WA system and you can pour literally thousands of pounds into it if you like. I should say the WOC is kind of naff out of the box, and the WOC-X is even worse but RA-Tech, Prime and others make very, very high quality aftermarket parts if you're into that - also, Daytona Gun kits are made to fit in WOC receivers so that's good. The big drawback is they only do M4s. The KWA LM4s are also gaining some traction and have been around a while now so RA-Tech have picked up on them - it's a newer design and slightly better than the WA stuff, but not as much of a range. GHK, WE and Tippman are all essentially the same in terms of upgrade-ability - for some reason there aren't a huge number of WE parts out there (probably because they have some unique designs like the L85 for example), though RA-Tech does do some things like NPASs and stuff. GHK is very new (last year) and Tippman is fairly proprietary and also new, so upgrading it can be a little tricky. Out of the box though, GHK are great. They also make the best magazines right now (which is half the battle with a GBBR) but be aware that the fill nozzle is much higher up so if you want to tap it for HPA then you'll need to buy another brand of mag. The G5s, AKs and M4s are brilliantly laid out though and accept many real steel parts like the charging handle and buffers. Tippman stuff is also fairly nifty out of the box being the newest design of all and also being fairly accessible in the UK. One other thing, if you go for GHK then their distributor site is here. If you need spares and stuff then that's where you'll get them - I say this because it's kind of unknown and many parts aren't stocked in the UK or can be had much cheaper from there. Word of warning: All of these are expensive with magazines. Expect to have a budget of about ~£450 minimum when all is said and done.

Don't think so, no. Did about 5 minutes of Googling when I wrote that post and realised I was wrong but couldn't find one. Maybe a deeper search might reveal something, but the stock off the VSR-10 isn't set up to accept a left handed bolt, so either way you're looking at some modification.

Also M14s are sexy and not completely generic like some of the M4s you might find at that price.

You can swap the bolt handle for a left handed one by buying an aftermarket one on the VSR-10. Two things though: Firstly, if you're new you should very much consider other options for your starting gun if you want to skirmish it. Secondly, if you're right eye dominant then is a right hand setup not better? It should be much easier to cycle a bolt with your less dominant arm than have to use your weaker eye. Edit: Whoops - I was thinking of an L96 left-handed handle I'd seen. Ignore the bit about an 'aftermarket part'. It can be done through modding the stock one though. Also, I notice you've already bought the VSR in question (if your profile is accurate), so feel free to ignore the advice about not buying one as a starter too. It's mostly about technique anyhow - there's no brass flying out that's going to hit you in the face so being left handed is fine. I've never had an issue cycling my L96 left-handed, and I've been shouldering it on the left too as I prefer to use my left eye.

Deja vu. Did you try a switch to .25g like suggested or did that not work?

It's about how it looks. The law is there to make sure realistic looking guns aren't sold to people they shouldn't, and that even the unrealistic ones aren't sold to minors. So yeh, AEP, GBB or just a gas pistol, springer etc. - it's all the same. Can't buy if you're under 18.

If they only use their BMW to go to a club once a month where all the other people with BMWs pretend they're racers then of course I'd find it amusing. But you're right, it's their money.

No collection is complete without a tri-shot.

Like I said man, you can buy about 600,000 Bulldog .12gs for that. Rubber band and an appropriately shaped twig or maybe a straw and you'll be blatting away at 100fps in no time.

I couldn't understand this post.

This man gets it.

Never mind

Because there weren't enough people telling you yesterday that you can't buy a skirmishable gun for that amount of money that isn't a shotgun:

This is an identical thread to yesterday. Wtf: http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/28262-new-airsofter-and-two-tone/ Just buy a bag of Bulldog .12s and throw them at the other team. More reliable than any AEG that you can buy for £60. What happened to:

Out of the three you linked two are between £200-300 which is exactly what my point is - you can get great stuff for 300, not 400. When you hit that 300+ mark you're basically spending money on externals, and I agree that G&P aren't brilliant internally and that's why I'd only recommend them for the externals as a long-term upgrade project. Have you actually fully understood my post because you don't seem to be actually disagreeing with me on anything:

I mean I know you should keep this in mind when reading any post here, but more so than ever - that's just one guys opinion. I say over £300 you're looking more at externals and I would use the extra £100 to upgrade your gun internally. If you're in it for the long haul, get something really flash looking for the £400 mark externally and then upgrade the internals over time. Either way, you should be upgrading. Some of the newer stuff is very, very competitive out of the box, but never the best you can get - for that you need to get more hands on.

Going for value at £400 may not be the best tack - the internals don't get hugely better than the £220-300 range for the price. Again, it's generally externals. It really depends what you like the look of. Your basic M4s and AKs will be - as a general rule - better value internally as there's more competition between the brands and you'll get more for your money, but above the £300 mark you should obviously be considering externals as well as they factor into the 'value' of that gun to you specifically. I can't tell you what you like the look of. Then you have to consider barrel length and ROF and optics and lots of other things. Generalising a lot, but do you want high torque with a better trigger response or a faster motor and higher ROF? Do you want to go the DMR route? Electric blow back or not blow back or maybe even a GBBR? What have you had your hands on and enjoyed so far? If you want performance, then the TMs still perform very well at low FPS but externally they can be lacking slightly. The inverse is true for G&P, so they're the two ends of the spectrum. Lately there's been a lot of talk about Krytac as they're quite good.

When you get into that sort of money it's very, very subjective. We could tell you what to avoid though purely spec. wise, but up that high you're probably putting money into the external look too (again, very much up to you). My opinion: Pick up a nice looking something like a G&P and then have enough left over for some mags before spending on it over a 6 month period because the internals aren't brilliant. Out of the box, maybe a non-EBB Marui, high cycle or something second hand.

Some do, others don't. This is kind of the thing - 'milsim' is a catch-all term for anything that isn't normal skirmishing. It can be as little as the banning of high-cap magazines/ammo limit and some more team based objectives for a round, right up to full on 'uniform required', real-cap magazines, roleplaying by designated actors and more.