proffrink

Fair enough - you should try Smart Gas or Pro Tech Gas though as it's really cheap (well at least compared to the prices over here).

Yeh but ASG is naff. Which Nuprol gas did you mean? Or just the green WE tins? Its performance is on par with Smart Gas and Pro Tech Gas - that's the issue I take with it. WE stuff has always been more pricey than necessary.

I too would encourage putting that optic money into the gun and maybe getting something even nicer. The Krytacs are very good though.

Aye, I assume your 'ten' was a little hyperbolic - probably around £400-500 for a decent build really. Not worth spending much less as has been said.

master trole

People are twats.

Reading. Every weekend. (Please use Google if you can )

Literally all of the top three on that page are exactly what you want. Buy from eBay though. Also I like that the top one says '100% pure' then on the bottle it says '99.9%' (like they all do).

Lots of threads regarding the TM G18C out there - the best I found was on Airsoft Canada where they outlined all the upgrades and discussed it in detail in the later pages. Pro tip: Look into filling in the front frame void with epoxy when you can as it'll improve the longevity of the gun. That front screw post will be the first thing to break on you so long as the hammer doesn't go first. Gas On a plastic slide anything cheap will do - Nuprol is easy to get (just the regular green bottles) but the cheapest and most reliable average gas I've used in my pistols has been Smart Gas (from Poland) or Pro Tech Gas from France - both are the same gas but relabelled, and both are about 7-8 Euros per can. Buy a few cans and some BBs and you'll have made a saving over what you can buy here. Magazines Cheapest place I've found is Rainbow8. They have the extended ones cheap too (I'd pick one up as those are absolutely amazing). Shipping takes two weeks and I just received my extra 50rd magazine in the post yesterday. Holster Look at Blackhawk. Second handers can be had for £30. I don't think Nuprol deserves people's money on their clothing and accessories but that's just me. Bear in mind that the TM G18C is 1mm wider than the WE and real-steel equivalent so you need to use some sand paper to get a good fit on either. I just run mine in a WAS generic holster and it works well and is light. If you play woodland more than CQB I'd recommend a fabric holster like this as they take up less room on molle and are marginally lighter. Torch Look at the Element X300 clone. Won't perform as good as genuine Surefire ones, but if you're on a budget they're allegedly quite good (remember to buy perspex inserts so it doesn't get shot out in CQB). There are loads of half-decent ones out there though. I'd probably spend your money on something more worth while at first. Also a word of warning - a G18C with torch isn't going to fit into a Blackhawk-style holster. Servicing There are a billion videos on this, but the gist is: Remove slide and use high-viscosity silicone on the plastic runners in the slide as well as on the metal ones in the frame (one drop on each is enough). One drop where the full auto switch is to keep that running smoothly, and a drop on the nozzle seal (then spread around with your finger before leaving the seal to rest overnight and adsorb that lube or it'll just be blown down the barrel when you next shoot). Remove the barrel and hop unit (just slide it away from the recoil spring) and then you can use small paper towel squares wrapped around your cleaning rod and isopropyl alcohol/rubbing alcohol/medicinal alcohol to break down any gunk in the barrel and hop unit (keep swabbing until the paper towel comes out clean). Use a small bit of silicone on a square of paper towel and swab the barrel from the exit end downwards, but do not go as far as the hop rubber (getting silicone on your hop rubber is bad). If you're not sure where your hop rubber is then look down it from the other end and you'll see the nub protruding into the barrel. Most of the time it's fine though. Only needs a proper clean every couple of months even when regularly playing. As for magazines, just keep a little gas in them. If they leak then first run some Abbey maintenance gas through them. If that doesn't work then disassemble, soak o-rings/seals in silicone overnight then replace. You may want to invest in a valve key - WE magazine valve keys work fine and can be bought for £5. Upgrades The Glock is super simple and I'd encourage you to look at it yourself. That thread I provided has a whole wealth of knowledge and screwing up permanently with GBBs is hard.

Better, but not as good as buying a JG BAR then buying the rest yourself. Don't go for 'bundles' Well he's not totally new and already has an AEG, but I kind of agree. Sniper rifles are expensive to get to skirmishable levels.

Ah well, to be expected with US imports as I'm sure you know. They always quote correctly because USPS are pretty anal. Apparent FedEx and UPS are big on it too and ask for a whole load of details before shipping.

You can put just £70 into most builds to get 80% the best build possible anyway - new hop unit and barrel. Cylinder and piston will give you that extra power you want with a weaker spring and you may want to switch to a 90o trigger at some point. Like I say though: If money is an object then a VSR clone is the best way to go as they're the most accessible parts-wise and really the cheapest to get right. The JG BAR is 80-90 Euros off Taiwan Gun anyway, so you will have plenty left over. It's about how important the looks are to you. I suppose there is a middle ground, but the MB10 doesn't have a whole lot of versatility when it comes to parts because of that cylinder. This may be a question for Airsoft Sniper Forum, but really it's a decision that's down to you. In airsoft you do frequently have to sacrifice looks for performance and vice versa - on a budget I'd always go the route of performance and the VSR delivers that quite cheaply. Also if you're not into that hassle then a TM VSR Gspec is quite good out of the box but obviously costs a little more than the JG clone.

Do not spend money on Well if you have that sort of money. Grab a JG BAR if you're going for that look and upgrade it - you could throw an SDiK in it like a lot of us have and get a reliable CO2 powered rifle. I wouldn't go with Modify as I don't believe their parts are very cross-compatible - the magazine location for one is problematic, but AFAIK the hop is close to being VSR compatible. It's more of a mid-level upgraded gun from the reviews out of the box, but with the same money you could probably upgrade a VSR/BAR with the best performance-related parts money can buy. The MB10 isn't quite VSR compatible as the cylinder is a little shorter. I know you say you don't want to go down the VSR route, but if you genuinely want the best performance in that price range then it's your best bet.

What was the £30 fee for? The courier charge is only £12.50 over £100 IIRC.

You can buy a suppressor adapter from LayLax or PDI for about £10-15 that'll allow you to attach one, yeh. What do you mean by 'options'? Colour? If you're looking at VSRs then look at the JG clones rather than Well - they make a better one and are quite cheap on Taiwan Gun. I'd still recommend the VSR having upgraded both. The L96 is nice and novel, but it's not as compact and just doesn't feel quite as functional. Plus getting spares for things like the receiver is pretty hard. Also, don't buy from BBGuns4Less; terrible website and service. Are you buying this 2-toned?

They absolutely fit. All the Maruzen APS-2 Type 96 clones are nearly identical in every way. And just in case it wasn't obvious to anyone: AirsoftPro supply ASPUK with their rebranded stuff but obviously you can buy it a lot cheaper directly. PDI do quality springs for about £8 a go. Think their free shipping thing on X-Fire ended though

Yah, I actually bought my trigger mech from them. Barrels are more expensive though. Also replacement receivers are a lot (which strip often with 90o triggers). Overall having upgraded both fully I'd say I prefer the VSR from my limited use of it. Much smaller and the magazine sites slightly further back.

Not missing, but tends to get lost if you disassemble without knowing it's there. It's a small black cylinder - very short.

Krytacs or other AEGs? No doubt you did but they're even listing it there as 310. Not sure why, but maybe because of a lot of those CQB sites and they're not able to reliably keep it around 325-330? I guess that makes more business sense than people returning their guns because they shoot hot. *shrugs*

It's best to e-mail Patrolbase too as they may have swapped it themselves. Krytacs have a quick-change spring so it's feasible for retailers to do that now.

That rubber o-ring just provides a little backwards pressure as it offsets the hop unit and inner barrel from the outer barrel as well as holding the inner correctly in the outer. Just makes sure it's seated correctly and feeds properly. Should be a spring too. Edit In the current way you have it you've almost certainly lost your hop nub if you've not removed it before the barrel came out. This is a problem. Tap the hop unit and see if a small black tube comes out. To reassemble Put green rubber tube (your hop up rubber) on the end of barrel with the narrow end pointing towards the open end of the barrel Rotate green rubber tube thing until it drops into a groove underneath the barrel and can't rotate Turn the hop off fully Slide grey hop unit over top of barrel with the long end pointing towards the far end of the barrel Look down barrel and try to align the 'window' of the barrel so it's facing up in line with the taller part of the hop unit. Take your time with this Push the green plastic clip (barrel retention clip) onto the barrel. It will fit into the groove in the hop unit Remove the small metal retention clip on the second 'cog' Remove the second cog and the first cog - the first cog being the one of similar size Turn barrel upside down so the tall end of the hop unit is facing downwards (this is so gravity holds the nub in place) Pull green plastic lever outwards slightly until you see the groove in it Place hop up nub onto groove. Usually your hop up nub is a small black cylinder (about 4-5mm long). If you've lost it you need another Push green plastic hop lever up unto place and make sure that nub doesn't fall out Keeping the hop lever pushed down slightly, replace both of the cogs from before Replace the metal retention part on the second cog Look down the barrel again and press the hop lever down slightly until the bucking protrudes into the barrel. Double check that it's aligned properly like before as this is important in making sure your BBs fly straight Push the brass collar down into the hop unit (this stops the barrel from rattling around) Push the o-ring down as well (doesn't need to be tight or anything as it'll be pushed into place when you put the barrel and hop unit back There are a billion videos on this. Consult them if you're still not sure. Just put in 'airsoft hop reassembly'.

Oh these guys. Yeh, avoid. I'd recognise that luminous blue logo done in Word anywhere.

Just waiting on i3666 and Randymanpipe to get their payments in for the pyro.

Just be careful with that clone red dot, Tom. A Tippmann will probably destroy it

You're welcome AF-UK Newbie.